We set a super fun partner climb at Black Rock last week! Be...

‪Last day of training before the Vail World Cup ☺️ Feeling...

‪Last day of training before the Vail World Cup ☺️ Feeling strong!‬

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“Climbing Against th

“Climbing Against the Odds” Arc’Athlete Craig DeMartino talks with OutdoorBuzz.com about his career including being the first amputee climber to climb El Capitan in Yosemite National Park in under a day.

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Yosemite - Taft Poin

Yosemite - Taft Point "The Pointy Part" 5.12a

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wild hiking essentia

wild hiking essentials

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We set a super fun partner climb at Black Rock last week! 

Be sure to give it a try if you’re in the gym :)

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We know where he'll

We know where he'll spend most of his dog days! So cute!

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Lately, the response time surfing on 8a has been rather slow. We have asked our server provider to increase the capacity so that problem should be solved soon.

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Vertigo - Sean Leary

Vertigo - Sean Leary, pitch 23, NE ridge of Ulvetanna, Antarctica. Taken from 'The Last Great Climb'.

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US Bouldering Champ,

US Bouldering Champ, & 2014 WC runner-up ~ Alex Puccio {started climbing when she was 13yrs old} ♥ ...

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Took up rock climbin

Took up rock climbing a month ago and try to do it daily. Not only is it fun, it's a great workout

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The Gunks, NY. Shock

The Gunks, NY. Shockley's Ceiling. Goes at only 5.6!

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The freedom of soloi

The freedom of soloing. Although I could never do it at a high level, I can appreciate the drive and mental strength needed to practice this.

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The IFSC Speed World Cup, originally scheduled for July 12-13th, has been cancelled. Due to unforeseen financial circumstances, the FFME has regretfully informed the IFSC that it will not be able to host the Speed World Cup in Chamonix. The organisers advise all National Federations and Competitors that the Lead World Cup will continue as planned. It is possible that the timetable for the lead competition will be adjusted. Should there be any changes these will be made available as soon as possible.
An email update has been sent to all National Federations and the event has been removed from the calendar. Any questions or concerns can be directed to the IFSC office.

Read more http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/news/item/937-speed-world-cup-in-chamonix-cancelled

Some Day I’ll Crimp Like a Real Boy

Carl Bullock puts his training program to the test on Nirvana, 5.11+, Lover’s Leap, CA.

“Oh, this hold IS bad. You never know with you!”

For years, the sport climbing at Red Rocks stifled me. Some people like to go on and on about how soft the grades are there, but I couldn’t have disagreed more. Grades I could onsight at steeper, juggier areas, I couldn’t even do on top rope at Red Rocks, for one small reason: crimps. Superman has kryptonite, and I have crimps.

I’ve always felt weak on crimps, and a string of frustrating and puzzling finger injuries finally spurred me to address this glaring weakness in the summer of 2014. Realizing I needed to focus all my energy on getting stronger, more injury-proof fingers, I started a dedicated hangboarding training program, and also made it a goal to seek out crimpy routes in order to improve.

On my last trip to Red Rocks, I was out sport climbing with a friend who has seen me have some epically hard times on crimpy routes that were well within the grade range I typically climb. I was climbing a route I’d never been on, trying to figure out the sequence, and the beta I was using involved a small crimp. It felt hard for the grade, but the problem with being crimping-impaired is it’s difficult to tell if you are doing it wrong, or if using the crimp really is the beta and you just suck at crimping and that’s why it feels hard.

After I came down, Emily went up and checked out my sequence, proclaiming “Oh, this hold IS bad, you never know with you!” Which might sound harsh, but she had seen me struggle mightily in the past on things that she had easily walked up. We figured out some alternate beta, and it turns out you didn’t have to use the crimp after all.

Moving to another cliff, I sent a few routes I’d only ever looked at and wondered what it would be like to climb. It was incredibly motivating to have such tangible results of all the hard work I’d been putting into my training and trying to work my weakness.

The rest of the trip was fun, with new possibilities suddenly open where before there had only been road blocks. Driving home I reflected on how rad it was that I could actually sport climb in Red Rocks closer to the same level I do at home, which for me is a HUGE improvement. Putting in numerous days on the hangboard, crushing your core, it’s not always obvious how much it’s actually doing for your climbing, but suddenly I had undeniable results right in front of me. And who knows, maybe one day I’ll even be able to crimp like a real boy!

Read more http://www.splitterchoss.com/2017/06/08/some-day-ill-crimp-like-a-real-boy/


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Adam Ondra says on Facebook, "We can only discuss whether the free-solo climbing is good or not, whether we should write about it or not… Anyway, it takes tremendous amount of courage to free-solo “Freerider”. From my point of view, it is easier to solo 9a sport route than this one."

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If you are looking for a way to diversify your strength and power training, systems wall and symmetrical training are a great option.  The benefit of these training techniques is that unlike hangboarding and campus boarding they involve actual climbing movement […]

The post Neil Gresham: Systems Wall and Symmetrical Training appeared first on Training for Rock Climbing - TrainingBeta.

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mountainsports:Climbing in Krabi, Thailand


Climbing in Krabi, Thailand

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