Climbing Destination Guide: Yangshuo, China

Expedition Canada 150:

A couple of my friends (Fellow UBC'ers and great photographers!) are headed out on a big adventure across Canada to celebrate our country’s 150th birthday! Click the link to follow along on their journey this summer if you want to see more of why Canada is amazing :D
PS. If you look closely you might see some footage of me in the video ;)

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Is the #vanlife cracked up to what it should be? As a recovering #vanlife guy, I am glad to be done, in the current...

The post Essay: The Adolescent Identity Crisis of the #Vanlife Movement appeared first on Moja Gear.

Read more http://mojagear.com/journal/2017/06/29/essay-adolescent-identity-crisis-vanlife-movement/

The thoughts or ideas expressed in this article do not necessarily reflect the opinions of Moja Gear. We do, however, support a platform for...

The post Essay: Devils Tower — Why I Can’t Write About the Voluntary Closure appeared first on Moja Gear.

Read more http://mojagear.com/journal/2017/06/27/devils-tower-why-i-cant-write-about-the-voluntary-closure/

Shauna Coxsey clinched first place in the IFSC Bouldering World Cup season rankings and Jongwon Chon again joined her atop the podium at the sixth IFSC event of 2017 in Navi Mumbai.

Despite downpours outside, fans of Sport Climbing travelled this weekend to the CIDCO Exhibition Centre in Navi Mumbai, India, to witness another spectacular show of elite Bouldering. It was the second to last event of the 2017 season, with thrilling moments lasting until the very last second.

A competition recap, highlights, replays and more can be found on the Navi Mumbai event page.

Coxsey Season Champion, Wins in India with Chon

Coxsey Season Champion, Wins in India with Chon

 Coxsey Season Champion, Wins in India with Chon

Coxsey Season Champion, Wins in India with Chon

Coxsey Season Champion, Wins in India with Chon

Coxsey Season Champion, Wins in India with Chon

Read more http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/news/item/951-coxsey-season-champion-wins-in-india-with-chon

A post shared by HASINGHAA (@hasinghaa) on Jun 13, 2017 at 10:23pm PDT The uniqueness of Yangshuo’s landscape is impossible to overstate. It’s covered...

The post Climbing Destination Guide: Yangshuo, China appeared first on Moja Gear.

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Home to some of the most historic boulder problems in the world, the forest of Fontainebleau outside of Paris, France has served as a...

The post Classic Boulders: C’etait Demain of Fontainebleau appeared first on Moja Gear.

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From cams to harnesses to belay devices and recently ropes, too, Black Diamond has consistently delivered climbers with high-quality technical climbing gear for decades...

The post Black Diamond Introduces First Climbing Shoe Line appeared first on Moja Gear.

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I’m sure it varies for each climber, but a lot of people will take a few weeks to relax, go on a climbing trip, or just “not train” for a little bit.  After that break you are definitely in full training mode though.  For me I usually wake up, strength train, rest, do another round of strength, then climb in the afternoon/evening.

During non-training hours I rest a lot, play with my cat Twister, and fit in some Netflix binges ;)

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Another great session at @blackrockbouldering last night 💪🏼💪🏼💪🏼...

Another great session at @blackrockbouldering last night

In this MTNmeister interview with climber and author, Chris Noble, we hear about the makings of his latest book, Why We Climb, which explores various...

The post An Interview with Chris Noble — Author of Why We Climb appeared first on Moja Gear.

Read more http://mojagear.com/journal/2017/06/28/interview-chris-noble-author-climb/

A land before time

A land before time

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On the 17th June 2017, Alex Megos climbed the first ascent of a new f9a+ at Götterwandl, close to Nassereith, Tirol. The route, named ‘Clash of the Titans’ links the start of Juturna f8c+ (which Alex climbed on his first redpoint the previous day) into the ‘Vulcanus’ project (as yet unclimbed). “I feel certain that this route is f9a+. The route consists of two distinct sections, the first part is around f8b+ /f8c and leads to a poor rest that was enough for me to take a moment to shake out. This is then followed by the crux. The sequence involved around 10 moves of consistent font 8a+ / V12 climbing. The moves are powerful and the holds are small. The crux finishes with a throw from an undercling to hit the top crimp and then there is easy climbing to the top. This is the first time I have been to the area and the Götterwandl wall was absolutely amazing. Tirol as a whole has been brilliant. I was shocked to say that I had never been before. I always thought I needed to travel far away to find more world class climbing; Tirol showed me that it’s possible to find incredible climbing right on your doorstep.” (c) Liam Lonsdale

Read more https://www.8a.nu/

Alex Megos has climbed the second ascent of the Jakob Schubert route, 'Companion of Change', f9a+ at Bergstation near Mayrhofen in Zillertal. (c) Liam Lonsdale The route took Alex 3 days in total to repeat, requiring some savvy tactics to avoid humidity and the summer sunshine, all under the watchful eye of local pioneer and climbing legend, Gerhard Hörhager. The repeat came after a string of fast ascents of classic routes in the area, including 'Love 2.1' f8C+ & 'Dolby Surround' f8C+, both at Ewige Jagdgründe, which is also situated near the town of Mayrhofen. Alex said: "Jakob graded the route 9a/+, for me I would say it is definitely f9a+ and a great one at that. This is the first time I visited Zillertal, the whole area is absolutely beautiful and the climbing is even better." Alex is currently travelling through the Tirol & Süd Tirol regions with photographer Liam Lonsdale, in cooperation with Vertical Life Climbing. They are aiming to explore the region as much as possible during their trip, whilst taking in classic areas and routes. Vertical Life is unlocking topos for each area that they visit to climb.

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Seb Bouin reports on Facebook that he has done yet another 9a. (c) Raphael Fourau "Legend"!!! The first route of the Pic saint Loup waited 20 years to have a Fisrt Ascent. I did this beautiful powerful line today. For the grade I propose 9a. For sure one of the more beautiful on this crag. It's time to pass on the next level : "ariégeois cœur loyal" the legend extension. It's my new bolted route where "legend" is just a way to arrive on the crux..."

Read more https://www.8a.nu/

Alex Puccio, who was #4 in Vail, has done Super kind traverse 8A+ in RMNP. "Suppose to be a rest day again. Really sore from the WC on Saturday but went to show friends around and thought why not. It's a bit of a silly boulder but at least it's real rock!!!" Skipping a rest day the following day also she continued to do Sun Storm 8A in Wild Basin, (c) Jon Cardwell. "Off again tomorrow for another day outside, loving it!!!"

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Oriane Bertone, who previously has done one 8B, has done her 13th 8A, Psychopad assis in Colimaçons.

Read more https://www.8a.nu/

8 ways to improve yo

8 ways to improve your climbing from Cool of the Wild: coolofthewild.com

 

 

 

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In an ironic twist after my last post about learning to crimp, here I am with a tweaked pulley. I’m not totally sure where it came from, there was no major incident, no big pop. I started to notice it was a little sore a couple weeks ago, but like Kris Hampton says, if you rested every time you felt something was a little bit off, you’d never climb. So I tried to be careful and figured the big hold climbing in Rifle and Maple wouldn’t be a problem.

After a short visit to Maple last week, it was clear that my plan wasn’t working as the pulley got more aggravated and crimping started to hurt. Fortunately it doesn’t seem too bad, and I’m really good at rehabing these things, which mostly means some focused hangboard work. And while I was bummed out after the realization sank in that I needed to take a step back right as summer was cranking into full gear, I got over myself pretty quick, but it did get me thinking how much pulley injuries suck, and here’s why.

7) It’s so small it feel almost insignificant

When you look at your hand, and then the rest of your body, it seems bizarre that something so small could have such an impact on our climbing. Of course it makes sense logically, but thinking about the tiny percentage of your body that a pulley makes up, it’s hard to understand how it can be so limiting.

6) The feeling of pulling on a finger that hurts totally sucks

Pulling on a tweaked finger that is injured produces this weak, painful feeling that’s just not what fingers are supposed to feel like. So that’s not fun.

5) You are usually at the top of your game, so it’s hard to mentally readjust

This generally seems to happen when I’m at the top of my game, so it’s hard to mentally readjust from “I’m crushing and can’t wait to try all these hard routes” to “I am going to rehab this in the climbing gym all summer.”

4) Its hard not to obsess and test it every 15 minutes

If the rate of healing was proportional to the number of times I tested it in a day, I’d be healed in a week. For some reason it’s really hard not to test the finger, both pushing on the injured area and test crimping to see if it still hurts. Like it’s going to get magically better every hour.

3) You need to actively rehab it, which means more discipline and dedication

Instead of taking time off, after your initial rest period, active rehab requires discipline and focus, which can be hard to jump back into, especially in summer when I’m all about climbing outside and not being in the gym.

2) It’s stressful to come back to climbing, hoping you aren’t overdoing it

When you do start to come back to climbing, it’s a fine line between an appropriate amount of stress and overdoing it. Mentally this can be draining, as the last thing you want is to re-injure it after you’ve made a bunch of progress.

1) Walk by someone in a wheelchair, and you’ll feel like the worst person ever for being upset about your finger

Like I said, I was bummed out for about 5 minutes, but pretty quickly I was able to keep it in perspective. It’s easy to get so wrapped up in our climbing lives that we lose sight of how privileged we truly are (1% anyone?). And then I saw a blind guy walking down the street, and someone in a wheelchair a little while after that, and I realized that a pulley “injury” is really about as insignificant of an injury as you can get.

So my summer has taken an unexpected turn, but I ordered a bunch of bolts and am firing up the hangboard/bolting rehab plan. And maybe someday I’ll figure out why my pulleys are so damn weak…

Read more http://www.splitterchoss.com/2017/06/26/7-reasons-why-pulley-injuries-suck/

7 billion people experienced this day in a different way....

7 billion people experienced this day in a different way. #climbing #multipitch #alpinism #igslovenia #kampadanes #view #perfectday #mountains (at Velika Mojstrovka)

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