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SCARPA Furia Climbing Shoe Review

SCARPA Furia Climbing Shoe Review

 

The SCARPA Furia was a big hit with us here at Climberism.  I had the opportunity to test out the Furia here on the east coast as well as out in the western Canadian climbing mecca of Squamish. These shoes were put through the ringer on steep bouldering routes, slightly slabby techincal routes (say that three times fast!), and straight vertical walls.  The fit and design of this shoe was most intriguing.

The first thing I think about when checking out a new climbing shoe is the heel cup.  How well is my heel fitting the cup?  Is there movement?  Is the shoe prone to slip off easily when fully engaged? The Furia’s heel cup had everything I wanted in the heel of a climbing shoe. Great fit, no movement or slippage, solid coverage of rubber around the entire heel, which is perfect for several of my steep bouldering projects this year.

SCARPA Furia Climbing Shoe Review

Scarpa Furia on Prime Time Sit (v5) at Murrin Park Squamish, B.C.

A patent-pending Power Connection Band helps keep all of your pressing power at the tip of your toes while on steep rock. The no midsole and 3 mm of XS Grip 2 Vibram rubber allows for the ultimate sensitivity so that you can feel the smallest of inflections of the rock.  As my climbing aspirations become more steep, overhanging arena, the more I need something that can keep my feet stuck on the rock.  While this shoe has performed very well for my needs, I found that when the rock becomes more vertical the less comfortable the shoe is due to the increased sensitivity from the minimalistic design.  However, this was no surprise to me and was fully expected.

The Furia should fit very well for the intermediate to advanced climber looking to have dual purpose use in overhanging bouldering and sport climbing.  So check out the shoe and get on the steep stuff!

Where to find it:

Wait for it…

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Varied and fun climbing, needs to be cleaned up a bit. No bolts were placed.
P1- Start up the twin hand cracks, climb up the corner through a number of small roofs, eventually reaching a short easy chimney leading to a huge ledge on the left. Good belay in a tips to off-fingers horizontal up and to the left. 5.9 170 ft
P2- Some easy slab avoids some squeeze chimney weirdness, straight up an easy chimney to the base of a wide #6 splitter. Strenuous and steep wide crack (5.10 A0 or 5.11) leads to a good fist crack/layback to a small alcove below a giant roof. 5.10+ A0 110 ft
P3- Short pitch, possible to link with P2 pending rope drag. Up the stem box with a .75 crack to protect and assist to the underside of the roof. Height dependent stem out and pull out of the roof. Fun! 5.10 30 ft
P4- The roof pitch. Up an easy hand crack to a small roof, stem to assist. Easy and splitter hand crack leads to the base of an intimidating roof. Easier than it looks, and with good gear. A couple rotten bands follow and you end up on a huge ledge. Boulder belay possible. 5.10 100 ft.
P5- Short pitch to the summit, straight uphill a bit there is an obvious #4 crack with a roof/traverse. Climb the easy crack and traverse left to mantle, tree belay super far back from the ledge. 5.8 50 ft

Descent: From the top out, scramble south (towards castleton) to the high point, scramble down to the rim when possible and find a huge cairn (50-100 yrds from high point). Descent to the ledge right below the cairn, the first station for choir boyz will be obvious, Easy single rope rappels straight down.
"The
Submitted By: Sam Boyce
Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Convent

Read more https://www.mountainproject.com/v/whore-house/111965060

Located on the short north west side of the Boulder start matched on a low good rail make a few moves out right then thrutch to the higher rails toping out maybe 3-4 feet right of the start hand. Short and silly.
Submitted By: beered
Location: ID : Redfish Lake Bouldering : Roundabout Boulder

Read more https://www.mountainproject.com/v/what-chu-bonobo-bout-that/111970368

Pitches 1 and 3 are excellent, Pitch 2 is easy and more vegetated.

Pitch 1 (150 feet, 5.7) goes to the top of the right-facing corner in the middle of the basically smooth north face of Lambda. It's the corner which ends about half way up the face. Belay should be set up after getting up the nice undercling, when what you see ahead of you is a left-leaning corner/ramp with some here and there.

Pitch 2 (100 feet, low fifth) follows the ramp, with occasional steps and some cacti to be surmounted. The ramp does split in two shortly after the start of the pitch. You should take the left, that is the lower one, even though you have to squeeze past a bush to do it. Go up the ramp all the way to the bush at the start of the next clean corner.

Pitch 3 (100 feet, 5.6-5.7) goes up the first, relatively shallow corner. (There are two more, deeper ones, to the left of it.) There is only a very thin crack in the corner and protection is a bit tricky - done with small gear, mostly nuts, and one old piton. The climbing is clean and solid and lot less difficult than it looks from below. Follow the corner past two points and build on top of the ridge.

Alternative Pitch 3: Go left from Pitch 2 belay and connect trivially to Pitch 3 of Slipper.
"North
Submitted By: Marta Reece
Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : North Organs : Lambda Wall

Read more https://www.mountainproject.com/v/we-are-off/111964240

A spicy and fun pitch. Start at a left leaning flared crack that leads to a dike. Climb the dike and clip
A bolt. Head left and jam through a roof to a blind jug.
Not an intro 5.10
"Andy
Submitted By: Ralph Swansen
Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Blair (overview) : Upper Blair : Wango's Workshop

Read more https://www.mountainproject.com/v/wango/111973525