Route: Padlock (V1+ 5)

This route is on the climber's far left side of the dome. L to R, it appears as the first sporting quality route, both from a distance and upclose.
Submitted By: Steve Blevins
Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Courtright Reservoir : Penstemon Dome

This is the longest route on the wall. It will lead you up through the trees and right on top. This was the first climb established in this area and has always been a fun place to warm up.
"The
Submitted By: Kaleb McCallson
Location: UT : Oquirrh Mountains : Middle Canyon : TK Wall

Crouch start with hands matched at lowest point on the arete in a slopey divot. Move up and left to join the problem Rail to Jug and top out. See the picture posted for the problem Rail to Jug.
Submitted By: Old Timer
Location: MA : Spring Pond Woods : Second Boulder

This is a really good route that mostly follows the old trad climb Indisposed, with some slight variations and a couple superfluous bolts. Start about halfway between Afterburner and Temple of Doom. Climb past one low-down bolt, then angle up and slightly right on gear protected cracks (5.10). Mantle onto a shelf and scramble up easy terrain with more bolts. Begin climbing out the wide slot on Sanitary Engineer, then reach out right and clip another bolt to make a short traverse across the face to rejoin Indisposed. The crux is some thin sidepulling near the top and protected by gear. It's a clean fall and the pro is good, but it's not uncommon to see a bail biner or quicklink on the last bolt.
Submitted By: Bryan G
Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Public Sanitation Wall

This route is here as a place holder to identify other routes. There is an old ring piton below the 2 bolt anchor easily identifying this route. The anchors are also above a small ledge which is perfect for taking off a new climber who is nervous about being lowered, especially children.
"Ring
Submitted By: Rick Blair
Location: CO : Leadville : Camp Hale : Practice Wall

This route follows a hand sized crack system up to a large ledge, then up a narrow chimney to the next ledge where an anchor can be built. There is likely 1-2 more pitches above this route that can be done as a trad lead, but were not completed at the time of the first ascent.

Best way to get to the route is to navigate to the GPS coordinates below and look for the obvious crack system. I will upload pictures when I can, but I'm on a 6 month trip and my photo library is back at home.

The first 40-50 feet is quite easy, low 5th class, with ample opportunity to place pro in the crack system. Just below the first ledge is the crux, which requires some careful balancing and smearing to perform the top-out move, and it not well protected. Once on the ledge, take the chimney to the climbers left for another 10-15 feet to the top of the first pitch.
Submitted By: Nat D
Location: International : Asia : Mongolia : Terelj : Buuveit Camp Area

Reachy, layback-style, crack-predominant climb starting on the common archway starting problem, remaining below the crack forming the arch until the eleventh stone of the archway. Then progresses directly upward towards the direction of your toprope. Can end as a topout on a steep runoff at the top.

Beware of the poison ivy at the toprope tree and beware the swing when you fall!
"Runoff's
Submitted By: Vedant Desai
Location: PA : Southwestern Highlands : Pittsburgh : Seldom Seen : Watkins Wall

This climb is worth doing, and it's one of the easiest routes at Pub San. It was maybe retrobolted for a short while (the Supertopo "TR and Sport" book shows it being full bolted), but most of these retrobolts have been removed. The bolts that remain are part of an 11c which is a mixture of this route and the crack system to the right (which was originally Indisposed - 5.10 sandbag).

Start the same as the unnamed 11c (but don't clip the bolt... or do...but it's not necessary). Go straight up to the left side of a big flake with a black streak running down the wall. Climb to the top of the flake and get up on a shelf, then climb through a steep chimney slot (another bolt to skip) and continue up the jamcrack. When it thins out, step left into another crack and handjam to the anchor. Finishes just to the right of Afterburner. You can just barely lower off with a 50m.
Submitted By: Bryan G
Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Public Sanitation Wall

Climb low angle jugs to the scoop. Stem the scoop then mount the hanging pillar. Reach around for hidden holds. Good exposure. Bolts appear when needed.

Red hangers
Submitted By: bus driver
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Millcreek Canyon : Jug Haul Wall

PERSEVERANCE FURTHERS - 5.10d *** (250' - 2 pitch) F(18b)
This route climbs around the left side of the main Wu Wei Wall, beginning just left of the obvious lower corner behind a large pine;
P1 - 5.10d*** 120' F (13b) - Climb the arete at the left edge of the east facing corner (10-) to an easier yet also enjoyable middle section, (5.6-7), which leads to the final arete finish (10+). Belay at the chain anchors (rap station) with extra bolt. Caution it is NOT possible to lower from the top of the 1st pitch with a single 60m rope - without having to down climb the bottom 15' (4th class off to the left). Probably safest to belay at the chains and descend via the rap route to the due south (95'), or continue to the top.
P2 - 5.4** 130' F (5b) - From the chain belay climb up and right to the low angled slab. Climb this to the 2 bolt anchors at the big ledge on top. Caution; it is NOT possible to lower with a single 60m rope from the top belay.

To descend use the rap anchors at the top of the dirty low angled gully about 50' to the west of the top anchors. A 95' rap leads to the mid anchors, a second 95' rap to the south gets you to the bottom of the face (about 50' west of the start of the route.
"Perseverance
Submitted By: applewood
Location: WA : Okanogan : Burge North - Hidden Canyon... : Wu Wei Wall

Start on the east side of the boulder, climbing right of a dirty crack to clip a bolt that can be seen from the start. Then climb the patina, clipping a few bolts and placing gear in small horizontals. Well protected and fun line. Easier than some other .9s in the area.
"No
Submitted By: SThal
Location: ID : City of Rocks : No Start Wall

Start up a few slightly harder moves to easy slab and end on vert.
"The
Submitted By: Merrick Schaefer
Location: International : Europe : Norway : Trndelag : Hell : Pompel

Pitch 1: climb the groove to a grassy ledge(60ft)
Pitch 2: climb the easy slabs to a belay below a chrmney( 60 ft)
Pitch 3: climb the chimney (60 ft)
Pitch 4: Trend right to a stance below a pillar( (75 ft)
Pitch 5: Trend right right to a belay at a black wall( 60 ft)
Pitch 6: Do an " airy swarm" move to a black chimney ( 80 ft) crux
Pitch 7 and 8 : chimney and scramble( 65 ft)
Pitch 9: up a right groove then left across an improbable hand traverse to a scramble finish ( 100 ft)
"Pink
Submitted By: Leslie McG
Location: International : Africa : Morocco : Jebel el Kest and Jebel Tas... : Ida Ougnidif Area

Pull a couple of harder moves, to easy slab and end on vert.
"The
Submitted By: Merrick Schaefer
Location: International : Europe : Norway : Trndelag : Hell : Pompel

Start up Fingerlings and follow it to the jug/rest on the right. At the jug step right to the next crack over and battle up an intricate blend of stemming and lie-backing. Get back what you can below the roof, before pulling a wild sequence on hidden holds to turn the lip. It's easy to set up a TR for the low crux from Fingerlings.

Submitted By: Max Tepfer
Location: OR : Central Oregon : Trout Creek : The Main Wall

This traverse shares the first three bolts with Neue Heimat, then heads up and right over a bulge to the 3rd bolt of Kaputt Bohrer and traverses to the right from there through the 3rd bolt of Kaum Zeit zum Frchten to the 3rd bolt of Franken Plaisir. Follow this route to its anchor.
Submitted By: Shawn Heath
Location: International : Europe : Germany : Frankenjura : Neue Heimat

The crux is low down
Submitted By: clive curson
Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Maple Corridor

The crux is about midway. There is loose rock (surprise...!?) Will clean up.
Submitted By: clive curson
Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Maple Corridor

SDS on a tooth-shaped hold. Traverse the lip rightward and around the corner on slopers, finishing with crimps up the right-hand arete.

"One
Submitted By: andyf
Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Carver : Carver Bouldering : Bonzi Boulders

Campus from small edges to bigger edges and ledges. Classic!!
"Backside
Submitted By: Chris Gamenthaler
Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Carver : Carver Bouldering : Main Forest

This fun route is on the north side of the central pinnacle, and so stays fairly cool on hot days. This is the middle of 3 obvious wider cracks. Follow a good hands to OW crack to the top, where you can build a trad anchor.
"Left
Submitted By: Micah Klesick
Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Chimney Rocks : Central Pinnacle

Head straight up off of the belay, then cut right to the first bolt and begin angling up toward the short right-facing corner that marks the obvious path of least resistance through the roof. Clip a bolt and hustle through the roof. Above, more pedestrian climbing leads up and to the right to a 2-bolt anchor well below the top of the cliff.

When lowering, if you decide to tram back over to the ledge to do another climb, be prepared to do battle with the tree. I assume this is where the name of the route came from.
Submitted By: Chuck Parks
Location: AL : Yellow Bluff : A0 Ledge

Long vert granite climb.
Submitted By: Merrick Schaefer
Location: International : Europe : Norway : Trndelag : Flatanger : Hanshelleren : Footwork Sector

Coming soon!
"Naya
Submitted By: donpaisa
Location: International : Oceania : Indonesia : Java : Central Java : Pantai Siung : Blok E

Start on the big triangle flake of Doorknob but deadpoint to the big square cutout with left hand and top out without using the big jug to the right.
Submitted By: Brian Hennebry
Location: NJ : Allamuchy Mountain SP Bould...

I think "3+ to 4" might better describe the grade, but you be the judge. It all depends on conditions.

START: (See Photo) Below a large, left-facing corner about 60-70 ft right of thr start of Power Play.

P1 - Climb up usually thin ice to the left of the corner itself. Near / at the top of the corner move right and up (crux) on either mixed terrain or thin ice. Then up. Belay where you want, probably off of trees.

Rap off, or...P2 - Up and left-ish over bulges and then a groove. Up left to the top.
"Chapel
Submitted By: Robert Hall
Location: NY : Adirondacks : Adirondack Ice Climbing : Chapel Pond and Chapel Pond...

Sit start on the obvious rail and work right on the jugs near the lip. Get to the top of the sloping right arete, stand up onto the slab and finish a few more easy moves.

Shares the same start as Virgin Connie Swail.
"Pep
Submitted By: Chris Gamenthaler
Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Carver : Carver Bouldering : Main Forest

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