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Rowerowa sztafeta, jakiej jeszcze nie było. Dookoła świata!

2016 World Cup Roundup

@molly_reimers in descanso last week. We got an alpine start as...

@molly_reimers in descanso last week. We got an alpine start as descended by 8am and we were already sweating profusely. #sheexplores #outdoorwomen (at Descanso, California)

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Baendit sent me these sunglasses to check out, and they have some unique and cool features: the arms are bendable (remember that Gumby toy?) so you can shape them to your ears–or twist them around the chest strap of your base rig if you don’t want to jump in glasses. You can also take them apart completely, if you want to change out the lenses, arms or nosepiece which can also be bought separately. This is fun–and practical for people like me who scratch lenses constantly by climbing, hiking and BASE jumping with them.

I’ve been wearing these shades for a few weeks now, and I’ve become pretty attached to them. They are incredibly lightweight, and the rubbery arms make them feel secure–if you want them to stay on more securely, you just bend the arms behind your ears. You can even wrap them around your pack or chest strap if you want them off but handy. I also really like the blue lenses, and I keep getting compliments on them.
Baendit Sunglasses
I generally choose sunglasses that are more curved, to offer more sun protection on the sides, though it seems like current fashion is for these flatter fronts, and this is one thing they lack from an active perspective. The downside of the bendable arms is they don’t have hinges like traditional frames, so you can’t fold them shut, which makes them seem less compact for stowing in a pack lid. Still, even with these two minor issues, I keep grabbing the Baendits over my other more traditional pairs, because they’re so light and comfortable to wear. Okay, I like the compliments too 

Read more http://stephdavis.co/blog/baendit-sunglasses/

Best Climbing Rituals

What I love about rock climbing is what most people love about climbing.

Purpose in the form of meaningful goals.

The reward of progressing up through the grades.

The excuse to travel and see rare corners of the world.

The daily opportunity to push beyond the comfort zone.

Another reason to be healthy.

A chance to be a part of one of the smartest, brightest, and best communities of characters that I’ve ever met.

And, of course, how my harness makes the bulge in my pants look bigger than it is.

All of it, coming together in raging synergistic bliss.

But what I also love about rock climbing is that it offers many opportunities to learn how to be a better, stronger, braver, more mindful, and more centered human being in other areas of life, too. The lessons learned and the habits gained from our time spent on the rock often have direct applications to our normal lives.

Have you ever noticed how climbers are the ones who panic less when shit hits the fan at the office? How they are often not the ones who freak out every time there’s an unforeseen hazard that sends a project awry?

I suspect that there’s a link between learning how to stay cool on the sharp end of the rope, and learning how to stay cool under the duress of normal life.

The rituals I’ve practiced as a climber have informed my best practices as a human being, and vice versa.

But what are “rituals”?

When I ask climbers if they have any climbing rituals, usually most people say something glib, such as, “I always put my left shoe on first!” But what they’re describing is, in fact, not a ritual but a routine.

The big difference between rituals and routines is the intent behind the action, and the mindfulness you bring to each moment. Picture, as an example, two climbers loading up their belay devices as their partners prepare to climb. Both follow the exact same routine, which is they thread the rope through the device, clip it to a locking carabiner, then lock the carabiner. Superficially, it appears that they’re both doing the same thing.

But one climber is thinking only about the beta on his project as he belays—his mind is in the future, in a place of anxiety, and he’s just going through the motions of belaying.

Meanwhile, the other climber, who has ritualized the act of belaying, has habituated herself to enter a mindful state as she goes through these common motions. Loading the rope into the belay device triggers thoughts of respecting the responsibility of what is being asked of you. Paying out slack triggers feelings of honor for being entrusted with someone else’s life. And lowering someone safely engages a mindful state of gratitude to be out climbing with a good friend.

I might wager that there would be far fewer belay accidents if we all ritualized the routine act of belaying into a more mindful practice.

Rituals allow us bring more of what’s good into our lives so that we don’t forget what’s important. By focusing on intent, staying present, and being mindful of what we’re doing and why, we can heighten the climbing experience, make it safer, and make ourselves better people.

Here are some of my rituals.

Zion-5-2-09-530

 

The Warm-up Ritual

How you approach the first route of the day makes a huge difference in how you perform later on when it matters.

Warming up isn’t just about limbering up the muscles and getting blood flowing to your tendons on some mindless, easy jug haul.

Warming up is an opportunity to check in with your body and your mind, and optimize yourself physically and mentally so that you are ready to perform later on.

The best way to warm-up is to do a route twice, back-to-back. Usually, I do this by first leading the warm-up, then climbing it immediately thereafter on top rope. But you can also perform this ritual by top-roping something twice, or even leading something twice.

My ritual is to allow myself to make mistakes on the first lap, then identify two or three things that I either did wrong or that I could improve upon while lowering down the wall. Finally, I will climb the same route again, and try to do so without making those two or three mistakes.

I’ve identified those mistakes, lined them up, and now I’m going to shoot them all down. They’re gone.

This ritual demands that you know what kind of mistakes you should be looking for, which might not be easy for beginners, and even many experienced climbers. But try your best. Examples of some of the most common and recurring mistakes for me are:

Sloppy, imprecise footwork or just general uncoordinated climbing. (Fix: Make a conscious effort to place my toe perfectly on the first try; try to hit each hand hold perfectly, athletically, and with coordination.)

Tension or over gripping. (Fix: At a shake or rest, look at a single, arbitrary point on the rock in front of you, and stare with a soft gaze at that spot for five deep consecutive breaths, allowing the tension to release.)

Anxiety, whether that’s feeling generally scared to fall, or just nervous about sending the project later on. (Fix: climb above a bolt on the warm-up and simply just take a fall. Giving ourselves permission to fail, even on a warm-up, is what gives us confidence to succeed when it counts.)

Think of a warm-up as a chance to purge all the negative stuff that holds you back from performing, so that when it’s time to try for a redpoint attempt on the project, you’ve already dealt with those issues and you can climb with a clear, unattached, performance-oriented mind.

Best Climbing Rituals

 

The “Doing Something You Don’t Want to Do” Ritual

One time, my partner and I found ourselves on a ledge about 500 feet below the rim of the Black Canyon at 10 p.m. It was our third route on the South Rim that day, and we were both knackered.

Despite having no water, bivy gear or warm clothing, we resigned ourselves to just calling it quits and sleeping on the ledge till morning. We sat there for all of five minutes before I realized that there was no fucking way I wanted to spend the next eight hours sitting on this ledge, spooning this smelly dude.

My partner didn’t want to lead in the dark, and neither did I. But my feelings for not bivying on that ledge were much stronger than my fear of leading in the dark, and so I grabbed the rack and somehow got us up to the top of the rim by 3 a.m.

Situations like this, in which you find yourself between the proverbial (or literal) rock and a hard place, can sometimes make it easy to step up to the plate and do something hard or scary—and surprise yourself in the process.

But I also think it’s important to do something that you don’t want to do (but know you should) at least once a day—even if you have to force it. Especially if you have to force it.

Whether that’s doing that extra fitness pitch at the end of the day when you’re really tired, or whether it’s just taking a big fall that’s been scaring you for the last week, or even whether it’s spending an extra 10 minutes cleaning up someone else’s trash that’s been left at the base of the crag, we could all make a better effort to not avoid the hard path simply because we’re tired, scared, or lazy.

Sometimes, when I’m working on a climbing project, I find myself lowering down before going to the anchors. I’m tired, and feel like the effort I’ve given is good enough. I don’t want to keep going, even though I know I should. That’s a perfect opportunity to check in, be mindful of this decision, and choose the harder path.

That’s how progress is made, by making incremental, conscious, mindful decisions to push ourselves a little bit more out of our comfort zones.

Do something you don’t want to do but know you should. Every day.

Best Climbing Rituals

 

The Post-Climb Beer Ritual

I enjoy drinking a beer (or three) with my climbing partners after any day of cragging. But when I recently realized that those beers often go down a little too mindlessly—without any real reflection, without any real gratitude, without any real celebration—I felt ashamed.

Type-A driven people (like myself, and probably most sport climbers) tend to struggle with celebrating the small successes. We want to redpoint the long-term 5.14 mega project, not the 5.13 mini project (or whatever the grade is for you).

This type of thinking puts you on the fast lane to frustration and ultimately burnout.

Just as my warm-up ritual allows me to identify one or three things I’m doing wrong in my climbing, my post-climbing beer ritual gives me permission to identify one or three things that I actually accomplished that day—and truly celebrate them.

The smaller the better, too. We can’t just make a habit of only celebrating our big successes. Celebrate the small ones, too. Pushing yourself when you were tired, having an engaging conversation with a new person, helping someone out with new beta, whatever it is.

After climbing, crack a beer, cheers your homie, and take a sip. Express gratitude, inwardly or explicitly, to your partner for a good day on the rock. Take another sip.

Review your day and find at least one thing you did well. Maybe you didn’t send. Most likely you got your ass kicked and failed in a major way. That’s OK. Have another sip.

But there’s something you did right. Identify it. Then celebrate it—inwardly or explicitly, if it’s appropriate. Now have another sip.

All photos (c) Keith Ladzinski.

Share Your Rituals & Win Some Shoes!

Arakys Arc’teryx helped sponsor this post, and they’re offering you the opportunity to win a pair of Arakys approach shoes. I reviewed these slick-looking shoes this year, and I was pretty surprised by how much I liked them. Their futuristic look is a bit dorky, perhaps, but the tech behind the footwear makes the Arakys one of the most solid, lightweight, and functional approach shoes I’ve ever worn. Instagram.

Here’s the deal: Share your climbing ritual, whatever it is, in the comment field below. Get your friends to up-vote your comment by clicking on the ^ sign. The comment with the most up-votes by August 15 will win a pair of Arakys shoes! If there’s a tie, I’ll choose which one I like better.

You can participate in this conversation on social media by followingArc’teryx and using the hashtag #ritualsshared

The post Best Climbing Rituals appeared first on Evening Sends.

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So tight...

So tight…

Hello, my name is BJ and I am a recovering tight shoe addict. When I first moved to Colorado 15 years ago, I fell in with a crew that encouraged me to get my shoes really tight. So my first pair of Miura’s were 42s (I have a size 12/46 street shoe). This went on for years, and I judged a shoe’s merit on how painful it was at first. I came to expect several weeks of pain and torture, but knew that in the end it would all work out once things stretched and conformed to my feet.

And then something happened last summer. I’m not sure what exactly, but suddenly I was finding almost all the shoes in my quiver were feeling too uncomfortable. Was I losing my pain tolerance? Had my feet somehow grown bigger? Were they making shoes smaller without telling anyone? I had been wearing 42.5/43 Sportiva’s comfortably before, but had to go up to 44s this year, and that seems more in line with where I should be.

Most modern shoes are built well enough that they don’t rely on your foot being crammed in them to get performance anymore, but it’s taken me a while to adjust. And while some still claim that shoes will stretch a lot, for most models this just isn’t true. Sure, if I cram my size 46 foot into a 42 shoe, it’s going to stretch a lot, because there is a ton of pressure on the shoe. But 44s haven’t stretched and become too baggy, because they are closer to the proper fit.

Many people seem to be getting away from the cult of the tight shoe, but for those out there who still think that buying new shoes has to be a pain-inducing experience, there is hope! I admit, it was scary at first to order a bigger size. What if it stretches too much? What if my shoes are too sloppy? But I have yet to have a problem with this, even though I’ve gone up two whole Euro sizes over the last couple years.

So this is message is for those still cramming their feet into too small shoes. There is hope, you are not alone. And you can bet your feet will thank you down the road!

Read more http://www.splitterchoss.com/2016/08/02/confessions-of-a-tight-shoe-addict/

Hi Steph, I’ve noticed you’ve mentioned CW Hemp a couple of times on Instagram, I was just wondering if you could do a little blog post about why you use their products, which ones you use, which one Cajun uses and what benefits you’ve seen? I’m intrigued by hemp extract products. Thanks!
Leslie

CW Hemp
Hi Leslie,
Thanks for the email! Yes, Cajun and I (and Ian too) have been using CW Hemp Extract for about three months now, and we all love it! I wasn’t familiar with CBDs before, but I kept hearing positive feedback about them so I got curious. I knew that CBDs have had amazing benefits for children and adults who suffer from seizures, anxiety, PTSD and neurologic trauma. It turns out that cannabinoids are naturally occurring antioxidants and help keep your immune system healthy. They are also anti-inflammatory. But I’d also been hearing a lot about people taking CBDs and experiencing greater focus and balance, and these are two things I prioritize above everything else in life and in the sports I do. I juggle a lot of different things, between training and climbing, running, BASE jumping, wingsuit flying and traveling for all those sports. That’s already a more than full-time pursuit, but I also run a household and my climbing clinics, I manage multiple sponsor relationships and blog, write and work and travel as a speaker–sometimes my to-do list gets so overwhelming, I don’t even know where to start! I started using CW Everyday Plus and I noticed that on days where I’m overwhelmed with tasks in so many very different categories, I suddenly feel much more clear and directed, and I just start at the top of the list and go down it until it’s done. That seems like it should be easy to do, but somehow it’s not, and I think taking Everyday Plus has been a huge help to me in getting things done efficiently without a lot of procrastinating (i.e, vacuuming the house instead of answering emails). Ian has had the same experience, and feels his focus is improved.

I’ve also noticed this feeling of wellbeing and improved focus when climbing. Sometimes I can get distracted by a lot of people at the crag or feeling like I don’t have a lot of time that day, or just the general anxiety of maybe not sending CW Hemp

Ian and I are both using the 500 mg Everyday Plus Chocolate Mint flavor, usually about half of the small dropper in the morning and sometimes in the afternoon.
CW Hemp
As for Cajun! She’s a rescue pup from the Navajo reservation, and she’s some kind of border collie, Australian shepherd, heeler mix, but I think mostly border collie. She’s a wonderful dog but very reactive and sometimes a little hyper (she’s super athletic and smart), and we’re always trying to find ways to help her relax. Morning runs and as much exercise as possible definitely help a lot, and we also give her the Everyday Plus Hemp extract (the olive oil flavor), about a quarter of the small dropper over her food at breakfast and dinner. The Everyday Plus does help her relax–she doesn’t need any help with focus, she has plenty of that  CW tells me their hemp extract has been confirmed to be healthy for dogs to take, and they are even coming out with a dog specific formulation soon.

The other product I really like is the infused gel pen–every once in a while I get a very sore muscle or lower back pain (usually I don’t even know why, but probably overtraining or not stretching enough) and I’ve been using the gel pen for these muscle pains. CBDs are anti-inflammatory, and the gel relieves my muscle pains within a couple of hours and also seems to keep them from recurring which is always my concern with random muscle pains. This one I haven’t tried with Cajun–I’m not sure how well it would work through fur and she fortunately hasn’t had any pains or injuries.

I am a big believer in taking a select group of supplements that are relevant and noticeably effective for me (vegan B vitamins, probiotics, eleuthero, creatine and iron), and CW hemp extract has joined that little group  It’s hard to see or track benefits of anti-oxidants on a daily basis, but I do feel my immune system is high, and those are both also a big motivation for me of staying consistent with hemp extract.

I’d love to hear what you think!
Steph

Read more http://stephdavis.co/blog/cw-hemp-extract/

Red Rock Rendezvous Episode Cover On the origins of the Red Rock Rendezvous, what to expect, and why events like this are so important to the climbing community…

Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes!

 

The Red Rock Rendezvous is one of the nation’s largest climbing festivals. During the 3 day event, climbers of all abilities can take clinics from top athletes in the sport. Phil Bridgers is the event coordinator and deals with just about every aspect of this event directly. In this episode he shares his experience and hopes for the coming Red Rock Rendezvous on March 27th-29th, 2015.

Show Notes for episode with Red Rock Rendezvous:

  • The origins of the Red Rock Rendezvous
  • Why Paul Fish of Mountain Gear and Dennis Gafvert of The North Face wanted to create a climbing festival
  • An explanation of the festivities at the RRR: Clinics, Food, Beer, Music, etc…
  • How they are monitoring the festival’s impact on the area and minimizing any negative repercussions
  • The athletes and climbers teaching the clinics including: Hans Florine, Alex Johnson, Chris Schulte, Peter Croft, and more
  • How to plan your weekend if you are attending
  • And which athlete can’t stay out of the photo booth

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Videos featuring Red Rock Rendezvous:

 

Photo Gallery of Red Rock Rendezvous:

Red Rock Rendezvous FlyerRRR Festival GroundsTent below Red Rocks Canyon, Las VegasEp. 26 w/ Phil Bridgers of The Red Rock Rendezvous

Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!

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On the Wolfpack Ninja Podcast, making the most of climbing while still training for ANW, and the Wolfpack’s mission against childhood obesity

**This episode is sponsored by Joshua Tree Skin Care and Gnarly Nutrition. Support this podcast by entering “chalktalk” at checkout for 20% off you next order!**

Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes!

 

Show Notes for episode with The Wolfpack:

  • How Noah and Ian got started with American Ninja Warrior
  • The V-grades of ANW (in case you’re wondering how hard the course is)
  • Lots of what happens behind the scenes of ANW
  • On Isaac Caldiero’s win and his flight to the mountains
  • How and why Ian, Noah, Megan Martin, and Brian Arnold started the Wolfpack Ninja Podcast
  • Getting to know the people behind the personas while interviewing ninjas for Wolfpack Ninja Podcast
  • The origins of Team Wolfpack and why it’s so powerful and positive
  • Team Wolfpack’s mission to fight childhood obesity
  • How climbing, and sports in general, helps childern succeed in school and later in life
  • The work that goes into making a podcast

Related Links for The Wolfpack:

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Videos featuring The Wolfpack:

 

 

 

Photo Gallery of The Wolfpack:

Wolfpack Ninja Wolf Pup Ian DoryWolfpack Ninja Climbing DocWolfpack Ninja She Wolf Megan MartinWolfpack Ninja Brian ArnoldWolfpack Ninja Training Manual

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The post Ep. 54 w/ The Wolfpack, Noah Kaufman & Ian Dory appeared first on .

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Sierra Blair-Coyle episode art Sierra Blair-Coyle on how the IFSC World Cup season is going, how she inspires climbers and companies through social media, and how she manages to avoid negativity in her public life

**This episode is sponsored by Joshua Tree Skin Care, Power Company Climbing, and Gnarly Nutrition. Support this podcast by entering “chalktalk” at checkout for up to 20% off you next order!**

Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes!

 

Show Notes for episode with Sierra Blair-Coyle:

  • World Cup travel and tribulations
  • How the IFSC season has been going for her
  • Analyzing mistakes she’s made in this season’s World Cup and how she is working on them
  • Training with Slovenian team coach, Roman Krajnik
  • Her home wall and training set up
  • Seeking sponsors and letting them find you
  • Filming the LG commercial that had her climbing a skyscraper with a vacuum
  • Rising tides raise all ships
  • How she deals with negativity from haters on the internet
  • How she promotes herself with social media
  • How training with a coach has helped her to improve more than she could on her own
  • On Andrew Bisharat’s article “Athlete or Model: What is Sierra Blair-Coyle?”

Related Links for Sierra Blair-Coyle:

  • Sierra’s website | www.sierrabc.com
  • Sierra’s social media| Facebook, Instagram, Twitter
  • Joshua Tree Skin Care | www.JTreeLife.com *[sponsored] (enter ‘chalktalk’ for 2o% discount)*
  • Gnarly Nutrition | www.GoGnarly.com *[sponsored] (enter ‘chalktalk’ for 20% discount)*
  • Power Company | www.PowerCompanyClimbing.com *[sponsored] (enter ‘chalktalk’ for 20% discount)*
  • Sierra’s sponsors | Sanuk, Falken Tire, Climb X Gear, BlueWater Ropes, Asana Climbing, The Law of Devin W. Quackenbush, Quotable Cards, and Cell Med Clinics

Related Chalk Talk Podcast Episodes:

Photo Gallery:

Ep. 57 w/ Sierra Blair-Coyle “Making Waves”Sierra Blair-Coyle sussin' betaSierra Blair-Coyle working the heelEp. 57 w/ Sierra Blair-Coyle “Making Waves”

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Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!

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The post Ep. 57 w/ Sierra Blair-Coyle “Making Waves” appeared first on .

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 On the Haiyang event overall, the return of Rustam and LeNeve, and who stands to win it all in Munich

Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes!

 

This is the third of Chalk Talk’s 2015 IFSC Bouldering World Cup Roundups. I can’t tell you how excited I am for this season of World Cup bouldering. There are more Americans involved than ever. USA Climbing has been attempting to fundraise for athletes along with some athletes reaching out to the community with crowdfunding efforts. The European contingent is looking strong with Jule Wurm and Jan Hojer winning the European Bouldering Championships, Adam Ondra is competing, and Anna Stohr is back after nursing a finger injury last season.

The plan is to produce an episode after each of the World Cup competitions with analysis, feedback, and awe from myself, Jackie Hueftle, and anyone else I can wrangle worth speaking to about this season. So, check back after each World Cup event for more coverage here on the 2015 World Cup Roundup!  

Show Notes for episode with 2015 World Cup Roundup:

  • The overall for the 2015 IFSC Bouldering World Cup in Haiyang, China
  • The trouble with Men’s problem 4
  • The return of Rustam Gelmanov’s (RUS) climbing antics
  • The rundown of the Men’s problems
  • The strength and depth of the Japanese team
  • Nokano’s (JAP) unfortunate technical on Men’s 2
  • The surprising performance and podium of Petra Klinger (SUI)
  • Women’s Overall
  • Melissa LeNeve’s (FRA) super try-hard on Female 2
  • Who stands to take the overall podium after the last comp in Munich and who’s poised to swoop it out from under them

Related Links and Sponsors for 2015 World Cup Roundup:

Videos featuring 2015 World Cup Roundup:

Click play to see Melissa LeNeve win the try-hard award in Haiyang, China:

 

Full video here:

 

Photo Gallery of 2015 World Cup Roundup:

Melissa LeNeve | HaiyangPetra Klinger in HaiyangRustam Gelmanov in HaiyangAlban Levier in HaiyangRustam Gelmanov in HaiyangMelissa LeNeve in HaiyangJong Wong Chon at Haiyang

Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!

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On the semi-finals, play by play of the Munich competition, and what to expect for next year’s expansive season…

Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes!

 

This is the final episode of Chalk Talk’s 2015 IFSC Bouldering World Cup Roundups as it was the final comp of the season. There were more Americans involved than ever. USA Climbing has been attempting to fundraise for athletes along with some athletes reaching out to the community with crowdfunding efforts. 

The plan was to produce an episode after each of the World Cup competitions with analysis, feedback, and awe from myself, Jackie Hueftle, and anyone else I could wrangle worth speaking to about this season. I hope we lived up to the hype. We’re both already excited about next season where there will be 8 IFSC Bouldering Word Cups in new and existing cities, along with the World Championships held in Paris, France next year. 

Show Notes for episode on 2015 World Cup Roundup:

  • A quick wrap-up of the semi-finals round with some serious upsets from the likes of Nathaniel Coleman (USA), GG Mondet (FRA), Adam Ondra (CZE), Dimitri Sharifudtinov (RUS), Miho Nonaka (JPN), Aya Onoe (JPN), and more
  • How weather conditions and hold texture could’ve made a difference in finals with some of the first climbers out doing well in the round and the later climbers struggling more
  • Notes on a couple heavy-hitting females (Shauna Coxsey (GBR), Megan Mascarenas (USA), and Akiyo Noguchi (JPN))
  • We eventually stop beating around the bush and get into the structured problem by problem analysis
  • The beta savvy skills of Martin Stranik (CZE)
  • The experienced Alexey Rubstov (RUS)
  • Jan Hojer’s (GER) struggling performance in the race for overall season podium against Jongwon Chon (KOR)
  • The two girls who rocketed on the scene, Stasa Gejo (SRB) and Katja Kadic (SLO)
  • Where Akiyo Noguchi (JPN) seemed to be having some un-characteristic troubles this comp
  • What happened for Megan Mascarenas (USA) having trouble on the final problem
  • What to look forward to next year including where the 8 World Cup events will be held

Related Links for 2015 World Cup Roundup:

Related episodes for 2015 World Cup Roundup:

Videos featuring 2015 World Cup Roundup:

 

 

Photo Gallery of 2015 World Cup Roundup:

2015 World Cup Roundup | Munich, Germany2015 World Cup Roundup | Munich, Germany2015 World Cup Roundup | Munich, Germany2015 World Cup Roundup | Munich, GermanyAlexey Rubstov topping M4 for the win2015 World Cup Roundup | Munich, Germany2015 World Cup Roundup | Munich, Germany2015 World Cup Roundup | Munich, Germany2015 World Cup Roundup | Munich, Germany

Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!

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On the artistic, but problematic wall design, some heavy hitters not making finals, and what to expect for next week’s IFSC Haiyang, China Bouldering World Cup.

Make sure to watch the IFSC Bouldering World Cup in Haiyang, China | Semi-Finals: June 26th, 2015 6:30pm PST Finals: June 27th, 2015 3:00am PST

 Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes!

 

This is the third of Chalk Talk’s 2015 IFSC Bouldering World Cup Roundups. I can’t tell you how excited I am for this season of World Cup bouldering. There are more Americans involved than ever. USA Climbing has been attempting to fundraise for athletes along with some athletes reaching out to the community with crowdfunding efforts. The European contingent is looking strong with Jule Wurm and Jan Hojer winning the European Bouldering Championships, Adam Ondra is competing, and Anna Stohr is back after nursing a finger injury last season.

The plan is to produce an episode after each of the World Cup competitions with analysis, feedback, and awe from myself, Jackie Hueftle, and anyone else I can wrangle worth speaking to about this season. So, check back after each World Cup event for more coverage here on the 2015 World Cup Roundup!  

Show Notes for episode on 2015 World Cup Roundup|Chongqing:

  • How the Chongqing World Cup played out overall
  • The artistic, but problematic, design of the climbing wall
  • Tsukuru Hori’s (JPN) technical on Men’s 1
  • Nathaniel Coleman’s (USA) unfortunate performance in semi-final, and what it means for his overall standings
  • The repercussions of Adam Ondra (CZE), Alban Levier (FRA), Dimitri Sharifutdinov (RUS), and Nathaniel Coleman (USA) not making it to finals
  • Sean McColl’s (CAN) rise to third place overall after winning this event
  • A flashback to last year’s finals lineup for the female contenders and how it stacks up to this year’s event
  • The up-and-coming athletes making podium
  • The doorway climbing in semi-finals and finals, good idea or awful oversight

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Photo Gallery of 2015 World Cup Roundup|Chongqing:

2015 World Cup Roundup Shauna Coxey2015 World Cup Roundup Sean McColl2015 World Cup Roundup Akiyo Noguchi2015 World Cup Roundup Dimitri Sharifutdinov

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 A roundup of the 2015 IFSC Bouldering World Cup held in Toronto, Canada May 30th-31st…

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This is the first of Chalk Talk’s 2015 IFSC Bouldering World Cup Roundups. I can’t tell you how excited I am for this season of World Cup bouldering. There are more Americans involved than ever. USA Climbing has been attempting to fundraise for athletes along with some athletes reaching out to the community with crowdfunding efforts. The European contingent is looking strong with Jule Wurm and Jan Hojer winning the European Bouldering Championships, Adam Ondra is competing, and Anna Stohr is back after nursing a finger injury last season. 

The plan is to produce an episode after each of the World Cup competitions with analysis, feedback, and awe from myself, Jackie Hueftle, and anyone else I can wrangle worth speaking to about this season. So check back after each World Cup event for more coverage here on the 2015 World Cpu Roundup!  

Show Notes for episode for 2015 World Cup Roundup:

  • Coverage by The Circuit World Cup and Performance Climbing Magazine
  • Expectations coming into the season’s first competition
  • The American hopefuls in Toronto and coming into Vail
  • Routesetting and how new holds, new walls, and some oversight may have affected the climbers
  • The new faces dominating the men’s podium, Nathaniel Coleman (USA) and Alban Levier (FRA)
  • Expectations for the upcoming Vail World Cup in Colorado next weekend
  • Thoughts on how the women will do next week

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Photo Gallery of 2015 World Cup Roundup:

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On the huge number of elites on the injured list, Adam Ondra performing amazingly well (the day after the comp), and what to expect from the upcoming IFSC Bouldering World Cup in Chonqing….

Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes!

 

This is the second of Chalk Talk’s 2015 IFSC Bouldering World Cup Roundups. I can’t tell you how excited I am for this season of World Cup bouldering. There are more Americans involved than ever. USA Climbing has been attempting to fundraise for athletes along with some athletes reaching out to the community with crowdfunding efforts. The European contingent is looking strong with Jule Wurm and Jan Hojer winning the European Bouldering Championships, Adam Ondra is competing, and Anna Stohr is back after nursing a finger injury last season (which she re-injured during this Vail competition and may be out again). 

The plan is to produce an episode after each of the World Cup competitions with analysis, feedback, and awe from myself, Jackie Hueftle, and anyone else I can wrangle worth speaking to about this season. So, check back after each World Cup event for more coverage here on the 2015 World Cup Roundup!  

Show Notes for episode with 2015 World Cup Roundup:

  • A bit about young Margot Hayes
  • What it means that Anna Stohr dropped out of finals after the second boulder
  • With Puccio and Stohr out on injuries, who should we expect to lead the charge?
  • The long and ongoing list of top climbers that are now on the injured list
  • The Canadians strike back. Sean McColl and Jason Hallowach make it to finals after a disappointing how in Toronto
  • A break from comp talk to freak out over Ondra’s flash of Jade (V15) the following day
  • And of course, Nathaniel Coleman’s second, 2nd place finish this season
  • What we can expect of this upcoming Chonqing comp based on past seasons
  • How the field of competitors with change this weekend
  • Climbing anomalies and what makes a good climber
  • Lastly, the amazing performance by Megan Mascarenas

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The post 2015 World Cup Roundup – Vail w/ Jackie Hueftle appeared first on .

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 On the happenings and excitement of the 2016 FSC World Cup held in Kazo, Japan.

**This episode is sponsored by Joshua Tree Skin Care, Power Company Climbing, and Gnarly Nutrition. Support this podcast by entering “chalktalk” at checkout for up to 20% off you next order!**

Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes!

 

Show Notes for episode on 2016 World Cup:

(coming soon)

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(Coming Soon!)

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 On the happenings of the IFSC Bouldering World Cup held in Meiringen, Switzerland on April 15-16, 2016

**This episode is sponsored by Joshua Tree Skin Care, Power Company Climbing, and Gnarly Nutrition. Support this podcast by entering “chalktalk” at checkout for up to 20% off you next order!**

Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on iTunes!

 

Show Notes for episode on 2016 World Cup:

  • Jackie’s assessments of the setting overall with a large focus on body tension
  • A breakdown of some of the interesting moments of the individual climbs and how they affected the outcome
  • How much weight the Men’s #4 problem carried for each competitor
  • The reason for Ty Landman’s frustration at not being able to finish Men’s #4
  • How Melissa LeNeve came out with a vengeance this comp and got her first podium since 2013
  • Thoughts on Men’s #3, the climb that was topped easily by all competitors
  • Thinking like a competition routesetter
  • How Sean McColl could end up in 20th place and realize that’s the new standard for semi-finals (aka, a really strong field of climbers)
  • Competitor attendance at competitions in Asia, and concerns for the coming weeks

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Photo Gallery of 2016 World Cup:

2016 World Cup Roundup | Meiringen, Switzerland2016 World Cup Roundup | Meiringen, Switzerland2016 World Cup Roundup | Meiringen, Switzerland2016 World Cup Roundup | Meiringen, Switzerland2016 World Cup Roundup | Meiringen, Switzerland2016 World Cup Roundup | Meiringen, SwitzerlandTy Landman jumping at IFSC Boulder World Cup2016 World Cup Roundup | Meiringen, Switzerland

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 On Shauna’s amazing weekend, Jongwon’s exciting adventures, and who’s going to take the overall titles in Paris…

**This episode is sponsored by Joshua Tree Skin Care, Power Company Climbing, and Gnarly Nutrition. Support this podcast by entering “chalktalk” at checkout for up to 20% off you next order!**

Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes!

 

Show Notes for episode on 2016 World Cup:

  • Hanging out and climbing with the athletes before the comp at The Spot Climbing Gym’s Annual Pancake Feed
  • The coordination of the Japanese team
  • A bit of history of climbing’s involvement in the Vail Mountain Games
  • The pairing of problems from different qualification groups
  • How splitting the qualification groups helps and hinders
  • The return of Alex Puccio one year after her knee injury
  • The incredible sports action of men’s final 3
  • Shauna’s big day; placing 2nd, clinching the overall, and being awarded an MBE from the Queen of England
  • Jongwon Chon’s adventures in Colorado; he climbs Veritas (V11), sends Jade (V14) on 3rd try, and then took a serious digger and needed some stitches
  • Who’s in the running for Men’s Overall
  • What we can expect from these athletes given that the next IFSC Bouldering World Cup isn’t until August 12-13th
  • And ramble, ramble, ramble…..

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Photo Gallery of 2016 World Cup:

2016 World Cup Roundup | Vail, USA2016 World Cup Roundup | Vail, USA2016 World Cup Roundup | Vail, USA2016 World Cup Roundup | Vail, USA

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Udo Neumann Cover On the 2016 World Cup Season, economic structures of climbing around the globe, and why a love for traveling is a good tool to have during the IFSC season

**This episode is sponsored by Joshua Tree Skin Care, Power Company Climbing, and Gnarly Nutrition. Support this podcast by entering “chalktalk” at checkout for up to 20% off you next order!**

Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes!

 

Show Notes for episode with Udo Neumann:

  • The trials and tribulations of attending a competition in Navi Mumbai, India
  • What makes a good world cup, and what makes a bad one: from India, to Japan, to Baku, to Munich
  • Some of the downsides of the Kazo, Japan competition
  • Chinese hospitality at the competitions for athletes and coaches, and the great internet firewall that the media has to contend with
  • Russian strength and aversion to sickness
  • How the economic differences for gyms and climbing teams and how they differ between Europe, Japan, and the United States
  • Where the United States is lacking on the international stage
  • Why US support of athletes from brands and sponsors seems to be behind the rest of the world
  • How German youth climbing teams can charge as little as $50/month for their programs
  • The richness of experience in traveling and competing throughout the entire World Cup Circuit
  • Why the routesetting factor matters; aka: knowing your routesetters, knowing their styles, and knowing their mindsets
  • Who the World Cup routesetters are, and what they are known for
  • How hold, and what companies the setters are using, matter
  • What is a more important strength in these competitions, old school crimp strength, or new school dynamics

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The post 2016 World Cup Roundup: in which Udo Neuman educates John and Jackie appeared first on .

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Duration: 5549 seconds
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