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Rowerowa sztafeta, jakiej jeszcze nie było. Dookoła świata!

Sean McColl, The Canadian Powerhouse

Brad Gobright on his first free ascent of Heart Route with Mason Earle, finding his free solo feet in Yosemite, and what free solo-ing has to offer…
This episode is sponsored by Joshua Tree Skin Care and Gnarly Nutrition. Support this podcast by entering “chalktalk” at checkout for 20% off you next order!
Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes!
 

Show Notes for episode with Brad Gobright:

  • Adopting the dirtbag lifestyle in Yosemite in 2008
  • What he learned about climbing while in Yosemite that led to solo-ing The Rostrum (5.11c; 8 pitches)
  • How Yosemite will always teach him new lessons despite all the time he’s spent there
  • The 5-year process of freeing the Heart Route on El Capitan with Mason Earle (including a story about enduring a push up the wall with poison ivy crotch)
  • How Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgenson helped fan the flames for the send
  • Why he started free-soloing and where he drew his inspiration from
  • His recent free solo ascent of Hairstyles and Attitudes (5.12d). The hardest free solo Eldo Canyon has seen
  • How he mentally prepared for the climb
  • Trying to do the Heart Route in a day with Alex Honnold
  • The speed rivalry between Brad and his partner Scott Bennett and their rivals, up The Naked Edge (5.11b) in Eldorado Canyon
  • What the future holds for a climber of Brad’s caliber and potential

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Photo Gallery of Brad Gobright:
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Duration: 2572 seconds
Size: 19.63 Mb
 On smoking some good Kansas-style BBQ, the evolution of a climbing company, and how Flashed is bringing science to crash pad and flooring design
Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes!
This episode is sponsored by Joshua Tree Skin Care and Gnarly Nutrition. Support this podcast by entering “chalktalk” at checkout for up to 25% off you next order!
 

Show Notes for episode with Flashed:

  • Ramble into the realm of Mark’s BBQ obsession as he smokes racks of ribs during the interview  **(keep small container of BBQ sauce close as you listen and every time he checks on the ribs smell container for 4D experience)**
  • The beginnings of Flashed as a company and how they evolved into the company that they are today
  • How Hurricane Katrina changed the way Flashed did business
  • Flashed’s history of experimentation and testing of products
  • Why they started drop testing their pads and floors with an accelerometer and what sort of data they are gaining by doing the tests
  • How the data from playground standards and automotive crash test have informed the design of their crash pads and flooring
  • The possible pitfalls of standards and regulation in the climbing industry as the popularity of climbing continues to grow
  • And how hands-on field testing has improved many of their designs

Related Links for Flashed:

  • Flashed Climbing’s website | www.Flashed.com
  • Mark’s email | Ten adres pocztowy jest chroniony przed spamowaniem. Aby go zobaczyć, konieczne jest włączenie w przeglądarce obsługi JavaScript.
  • Joshua Tree Skin Care | www.JTreeLife.com *[sponsored] (enter ‘chalktalk’ for 25% discount)*
  • Gnarly Nutrition | www.GoGnarly.com *[sponsored] (enter ‘chalktalk’ for 20% discount)*

Related Chalk Talk Podcast Episodes for Flashed:

Videos featuring Flashed:

 
***video by Matt Grossman***
Photo Gallery of Flashed:
www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Flashe Sumi Brushwww.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Ronin Pad
**commercial music by www.bensound.com**
Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!
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Duration: 3957 seconds
Size: 30.3 Mb
www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Episode Art for ThePorch.ioOn the web app designed to map the metrics of routesetting, climbing, and more!
Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes!
 

Show Notes for episode with ThePorch.io:

  • Where the name and idea for ThePorch.io came from and what Andrew is trying to do with it
  • The Porch’s gym route tracking and how Andrew hopes it affects the community
  • How the metrics of routesetting can help gyms improve the quality of their product
  • How the web app works and how much more labor is involved with it’s data entry and upkeep
  • Applications of The Porch outside of the climbing gym
  • How to get people to actually use it
  • When ThePorch.io will be available and how gyms and individuals can get involved now

Related Links for ThePorch.io:

  • The Porch’s website | www.ThePorch.io
  • Email contact for Andrew Palmer of ThePorch.io | Ten adres pocztowy jest chroniony przed spamowaniem. Aby go zobaczyć, konieczne jest włączenie w przeglądarce obsługi JavaScript.

Related Chalk Talk Podcast Episodes for ThePorch.io:

Photo Gallery of ThePorch.io:

www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news The Porch (2)www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news The Porch (4)www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news The Porch (1)
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Duration: 2513 seconds
Size: 19.24 Mb
www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Tiffany Hensley Episode ArtOn her push from competitive nature to philanthropic nurture, working with Escalando Fronteras in Mexico, and getting a poverty stricken youth climbing…
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Show Notes for episode with Tiffany Hensley:

  • How Tiffany made a name for herself, where she is now, and what she’s doing with her life
  • How she is tackling a recent injury (not necessarily recommended)
  • Her newest off the rock project helping kids from broken families in Mexico get out and climb, called Escalando Fronteras
  • Her first tour of the ghettos of Monterey and meeting the zombie-like futures of Mexico’s downtrodden youth
  • Is Monterey a dangerous place to work or visit
  • The response within the community for the Escalando Fronteras program
  • What issues Escalando Fronteras focuses on and what effects they are seeing with the youth in the community
  • Some of the other local heroes of the area that help to fuel and inspire change among the community
  • Profiles and stories of some of the kids who take part in the program
  • What they need the most and how you can help

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Photo Gallery of Tiffany Hensley:
www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Ep.44 w/ Tiffany Hensley “Climbing Out of Poverty”www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Ep.44 w/ Tiffany Hensley “Climbing Out of Poverty”www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Ep.44 w/ Tiffany Hensley “Climbing Out of Poverty”www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Ep.44 w/ Tiffany Hensley “Climbing Out of Poverty”
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Duration: 2937 seconds
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www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Alex Puccio injuryOn her injury, the frustration of slow healing, and finding the strength to come back with a vengeance…
Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes!
***Thanks to Aicacia Young from www.ClimbHealthy.com for doing the intro to this episode! Check out her website on climbing nutrition and lifestyle…***
 

Show Notes for episode with Alex Puccio:

  • Dealing with the frustration of slow healing
  • Her recent ascents of Memoirs of an Invisible Climber (V12) and Euro Trash (V12)
  • How more success in competition leads to more pressure and poor performance
  • The pressures of competing, burnout, and how climbing outside helped Alex re-invent her mindset
  • How training with Justen Sjong from Team of 2 helped her be more aware of her mental blocks before and during competitions
  • Where her new found determination for training and fitness came from
  • How the injury happened in isolation and what emotions were running through her head as she was pulled from iso
  • Her road to recovery from tearing her ACL, MCL and Meniscus, to sending Euro Trash (V12) only 8 weeks after surgery and again with Memoirs of the Invisible Climber (V12) 11 weeks after surgery
  • The hardest parts of her injury emotionally and physically
  • The frustration of the waiting game while healing and how she stays motivated
  • The response from the climbing community on her injury considering she crowdfunded for this season’s World Cup Circuit
  • Has her injury made her stronger or weaker in any way
  • Getting over the mental hurdles that hold us back post-injury
  • Injury prevention: how much she was doing before her accident and why its important
  • Has being injured given her a new outlook on climbing or competing
  • How she will prioritize the next year or so of climbing
  • Social media, self-promotion, and the trouble with making a career as a pro climber
  • Her future plans for training, competing and getting outdoors

Related Links for Alex Puccio:

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Photo Gallery of Alex Puccio:
www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Ep.43 w/ Alex Puccio “Road to Recovery”www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Ep.43 w/ Alex Puccio “Road to Recovery”www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Alex Puccio dyno-ing in Toronto 2015www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Alex Puccio working on those abswww.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Alex Puccio gettin' ripped
Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!
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Duration: 4352 seconds
Size: 33.28 Mb
www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Kati Hetrick Episode ArtOn climbing athlete representation, how important self-promotion and social media presence is for athletes, and how much elite athletes stand to make…
Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes!
***As a gift to our listeners, Kati wanted me to tell you that you can receive 20% of all Joshua Tree and Gnarly Nutrition products if you cruise over to their website at www.GoGnarly.com enter the promo code “chalktalk” at check out! Or go to www.jtreelife.com and enter the promo code “friend20” at check out! So, show your support and get some goodness for yourself!***
 
Kati Hetrick is the owner RedPoint Consulting. Through her company she manages some of climbing’s top athletes including, Alex Johnson, Nathaniel Coleman, and more. She is one of few managers out there who represent climbing athletes which means she has had to figure out what the brands want from their athletes and how to manage. She talks with us on this episode about the changing face of the climbing industry and how athletes are expected to earn their keep in this ever-evolving industry.

Show Notes for episode with Kati Hetrick:

  • How her early experience competing as a youth competitor and later as a sponsored athlete gave her an insight into the industry that led to a career in athlete management
  • How she began her career as a climbing athlete manager
  • Do climbing athletes really need representation?
  • Why we see some athletes with 20 sponsors and others with 2 or 3 despite their relative achievements
  • How much self-promotion and social media play into modern day pro climbing
  • How her business, RedPoint Consulting, works with athletes, brands, and companies
  • Who some of her clients are and what she is doing to help them succeed in their dreams
  • How much can a top earning climbing athlete expect to make in this new age of pro climbing
  • The negativity from the climbing community that surrounds the idea of making a living as a professional climber
  • The instability of a professional climbing career
  • Advice for young athletes who are considering a career in rock climbing

Related Links for Kati Hetrick:

  • Kati Hetrick’s Instagram, Facebook, and Twitter
  • Joshua Tree’s Website | www.Jtreelife.com | **(enter “friend20” at checkout for 20% off)**
  • GoGnarly’s Website |www.GoGnarly.com | **(enter “chalktalk” at checkout for 20% off)**
  • Inquiries or questions can be directed to Kati’s email | Ten adres pocztowy jest chroniony przed spamowaniem. Aby go zobaczyć, konieczne jest włączenie w przeglądarce obsługi JavaScript.

Related Chalk Talk Podcast Episodes for Kati Hetrick:

Photo Gallery of Kati Hetrick:

www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Ep.42 w/ Kati Hetrick “Finding That Niche”www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Kati Hetrick cruisin' in Red Rockswww.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Ep.42 w/ Kati Hetrick “Finding That Niche”www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Ep.42 w/ Kati Hetrick “Finding That Niche”www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Ep.42 w/ Kati Hetrick “Finding That Niche”
Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!
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Duration: 3114 seconds
Size: 23.85 Mb
www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Access Fund Episode Art On the subtleties of responsible trail building, climbing area stewardship, and how to responsibly develop climbing areas
Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes!
 
This episode is sponsored by Lifestraw. Why carry plastic bottles that could become litter and threaten access to climbing areas when you could drink directly out of the stream?! Want to find out more? Check out their website here for more info…
 

Show Notes for episode with Access Fund:

  • Where they are currently in their almost 2 year long Access Fund road trip, and what they are doing
  • How to get involved with one of the Access Fund’s Stewardship programs
  • The agenda of a three day Access Fund Stewardship Program
  • How to effectively build a stone wall or retaining wall on a trail that will stand the test of time
  • How Access Fund seeks to succeed in its main objective of keeping climbing areas open
  • How a local community should approach a land manager or land owner about access issues
  • How climbers can minimize their effect when going to the crag to avoid access issues
  • What to do about popular climbing areas that are being overrun week after week
  • Where to find information on where it’s okay to camp or hike or access crags so we aren’t exacerbating access issues
  • Some advice to consider for climbing area developers to decrease the impact on an area
  • Some of their favorite spots around the U.S.

Related Links for Access Fund:

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Videos featuring Access Fund:

 
Photo Gallery of Access Fund:
www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Mike Morin working in the wildwww.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Access Fund Groupwww.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Access Fund Trail buildingwww.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Lost on the roadwww.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Creating Sustainable Trails
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Duration: 2426 seconds
Size: 18.59 Mb
www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Skratch Labs Episode Art On how studies of cyclists’ hydration begot Skratch, why they focus on the sport of climbing, and how to train better with proper hydration and real food….
Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes!
20% off all Skratch Labs products! Visit their website and enter ChalkTalk at checkout!
 

Show Notes for episode with Skratch Labs:

  • How Ian MacGregor (Co-Founder/CEO) and Jay Peery (VP of Sales) got started with Skratch Labs
  • The origin story of a new type of hydration mix in the sports nutrition market
  • Alan Lim’s (Founder) studies and how that came to lead to the creation of Skratch Labs
  • Their different products and how and when to use them
  • The development and constant cookie eating involved with creating their cookie mix
  • The philosophy of bringing food back to sports nutrition
  • What?! Skratch Labs drink mixes can moldonce you add water to them?! Yes, because their made with REAL FRUIT! That’s the beauty
  • So, with all of the endurance sports out there why did Skratch decide to focus on climbing?
  • How they work with athletes to help them be more efficient at sports nutrition
  • How climbing stacks up to other professional sports in the realm of training and sports nutrition
  • Sodium loss rates and how much electrolyte replenishment climbers need

Related Links for Skratch Labs:

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Videos featuring Skratch Labs:

 
Photo Gallery of Skratch Labs:
www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Skratch Labs Cookies!www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Skratch Labs Drink Mixeswww.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Skratch Labs Product
Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!
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Duration: 3247 seconds
Size: 24.82 Mb
www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Episode 4 w/ Jackie Hueftle
Photo: Max Moore
On the art and function of routesetting, Hueco, Kilter Grips, and much more.
Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes!
 
I’ve know Jackie Hueftle for many years. She originally hails out of my hometown of Reno, Nv and grew up competing on the national level in youth climbing comps.
Since then, Jackie has become a staple name in the climbing industry for anyone paying close attention. She is the head routesetter at The Spot

bouldering

gym in Boulder, Co and the editor and author of The Spot’s routesetting blog. The blog focuses on many aspects of the climbing industry including her up-to-date reporting of the international, world cup climbing circuit, climbing hold and product reviews, and other industry relevant information. She has written for many publications including Rock and Ice and Dead Point Magazine, and continues to focus on feature stories for climbing’s major media sources.
Jackie also is a driving force behind the new and growing climbing hold company, Kilter Grips, created and designed by Ian Powell.
She has also set for a handful of professional level climbing competitions, and, in her free time, regularly wanders into fields of boulders to push her own limits on the rock.
So,  do yourself a favor and check out her episode. It’s good!
Show Notes:
  • Choosing climbing life over law school. (Before you cover your kids’ ears, Jackie did graduate with a degree in writing at CU Boulder).
  • Finding a balance between art and function in routesetting.
  • What makes The Spot,….the spot.
  • Where are all the female routesetters?
  • Americans in the international competition scene…or lack thereof.
  • Hueco Tanks regulations and why they matter.
  • And Kilter Grips.
Related Links and Sponsors:
Videos:
 
Photo Gallery:
www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Photo: Andrew Rothnerwww.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Jackie Hueftle in fontwww.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Jackie Hueftlewww.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Psychadelia2013
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Duration: 2792 seconds
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www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Nathaniel Coleman Episode Art On riding high in Toronto and Vail, under pressure in China, and managing expectations….
Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes!
 
Nathaniel Coleman is a US Team climber out of Murray, Utah. He has won numerous youth climbing events including 2015 Youth Bouldering Nationals in his category, and took 5th place in the 2015 Open Nationals for Bouldering. This year, Nathaniel decided to compete in the IFSC World Cup Series in the Toronto, Vail, and Munich events. After taking a surprising second place in the first two event’s, Nathaniel Coleman decided to follow the series to China and on to Munich raising enough money to do so. His journey is one of an athlete new on the scene of World Cup climbing. He has to deal with success, expectations, pressures, and failures. In this interview, Nathaniel Coleman tells us of his adventure and what he is planning for the future. 

Show Notes for episode with Nathaniel Coleman:

  • How he trained and prepared for this World Cup Season
  • Advice from Killian Fischuber
  • What sort of expectations he felt walking into the Toronto World Cup Event
  • Breaking the beta on problem #4 in the finals at Toronto to win 2nd place
  • How the crowd in Vail energized him to succeed.
  • Being “picked on” by Jan Hojer (GER)
  • Deciding to continue the World Cup Circuit to China and what obstacles he had to over come to get there
  • Experiencing China on a whim fresh outta high school and riding high on two silver medal finishes
  • How the pressure of doing well in Toronto and Vail began to mount in China
  • “It’s dealing with your success or failure…”
  • His time training with the German Climbing Team at Stuntwerk in Cologne, Germany
  • Managing strength and psych levels going into the Munich World Cup event after a six week break
  • Nathaniel’s plans for next year’s IFSC World Cup Series which includes 8 competitions and the World Championships

Related Links for Nathaniel Coleman:

Related Chalk Talk Podcast Episodes for Nathaniel Coleman:

Videos featuring Nathaniel Coleman:

Nathaniel Coleman on M4 in Toronto:
 
Nathaniel Coleman Flash on M4 in Vail:
 
 
Photo Gallery of Nathaniel Coleman:
www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Nathaniel Coleman in black and whitewww.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Ep.39 w/ Nathaniel Coleman “Moments of Success”www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Ep.39 w/ Nathaniel Coleman “Moments of Success”www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Ep.39 w/ Nathaniel Coleman “Moments of Success”www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Nathaniel Coleman making moves in Chinawww.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Nathaniel Coleman competing in Ratikon
Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!
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Duration: 2954 seconds
Size: 22.63 Mb
www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Moja Gear Episode Art On the road to entrepreneurship, managing Moja Gear as it grows, and why the climbing industry is unlike any other…
*Save 15% on any purchase from Moja Gear by entering “chalktalk” at the checkout! (good through Aug 31st)* Click here to visit their website now!
Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes!
 

Show Notes for episode with Moja Gear:

  • Life on the Road from San Luis Obispo, to Lander, to Denver
  • How Moja Gear sprung from a student project at Cal Poly into a full blown entrepreneurial experience
  • Tips on starting a business from Sander’s time in Cal Poly’s entrepreneur program
  • Thoughts on their content including articles like: How to pee on a wall (when you don’t have a penis)
  • Tips and tools for how they manage their time and get the job done while on the road.
  • How they managed expansion in the face of relinquishing creative control
  • Their rate of growth and how they’ve leveraged it in the climbing market
  • Why the climbing industry is unlike most others and how to deal with the fickle attitude of it as a business
  • Natalie relates how working for Moja Gear compares to working in the foreign service sector
  • How the retail model works on MojaGear.com

Related Links and Sponsors for Moja Gear:

Related Chalk Talk Podcast Episodes for Moja Gear:

Videos featuring Moja Gear:

A couple of Moja Gear’s recent Friday Flick Pick’s:
 
 

Photo Gallery of Moja Gear:

www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Moja Gear Wall Techniquewww.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Moja Gear on Boulderingwww.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Moja Gear Katie Hetrickwww.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Moja Gear Paige Claassenwww.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Ep.38 w/ Moja Gear “Community Driven”www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Moja Gear with Angie Paynewww.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Moja Gear promotion
Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!
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Duration: 2531 seconds
Size: 19.36 Mb
www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Kris Hampton Episode ArtOn our upcoming hip-hop collaboration, weight training for climbing, and living vicariously through other Chrises…
Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes!
 

Show Notes for episode with Kris Odub Hampton:

  • We geek out for a minute or two about how great podcasts are
  • Kris’ many hats including hip-hop artist, mural painter, climber, blogger, trainer, etc.
  • How he got into hip-hop growing up in an “all white, very racist neighborhood”
  • The pitfalls of commercial art
  • How helping locals with training plans became Power Company Climbing
  • His new training app
  • How to personalize your training plan; What works…
  • What about those climbers who never train and crush everything?
  • The basics of training
  • Living vicariously through other Chrises while recovering from an injury (see photos below)
  • Weight training for climbing and when to incorporate it

Related Links and Sponsors for Kris Odub Hampton:

Related Chalk Talk Podcast Episodes for Kris Odub Hampton:

Videos featuring Kris Odub Hampton:

An example of workout video from Kris’ upcoming training app…
 
 
Photo Gallery of Kris Odub Hampton:
www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Kris Odub Hampton Power Company Climbingwww.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Kris Odub Hampton Kalous Enormocastwww.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Kris Odub Hampton Schultewww.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Kris Odub Hampton Sharmawww.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Kris Odub Hampton Webb Parsonwww.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Kris Hampton | The Chriseswww.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news The Chrises | Urban Climber
Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes!
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Duration: 3744 seconds
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www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Heiko Wilhelm Photographer On how he coaches the some of the best athletes, why he began working on his book Beyond the Face, and a little inspiration from the world’s top athletes
Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes!
 

Show Notes for episode with Heiko Wilhelm:

  • How he got his start as coach of the Austrian Climbing Team
  • Expounding on the virtues of the climbing community
  • how he approaches coaching athletes who are already at the top of their game
  • The secret to Austrian success
  • Dealing with athlete burnout
  • How Anna Stohr’s finger injury is healing and if she’ll compete in Munich
  • About his new book, Beyond the Face, and what inspired hime to make it
  • How he prepared and conducted his interviews with 30 of the world’s top athletes
  • Some of his favorite moments and inspirations from the book

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www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Shauna Coxsey episode art On pushing forward after an injury, this season’s World Cup experience, and how she manages to stay so busy
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Show Notes for episode with Shauna Coxsey:

  • How the finger injury that kept her out of the European Championships has been affecting her during this 2015 World Cup season
  • At what point is it worth it to risk injury?
  • How the field of strong female competitors is changing the game
  • Her transition from being a “climber” to being an “athlete”
  • What she’ll do with her time in between now and the Munich WC in August
  • Her other, off the wall, projects including: The Women’s Climbing Symposium, Climbers Against Cancer, and The British Mountaineering Council
  • The IFSC Bouldering World Cup from her POV

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www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Ep.35 w/ Shauna Coxsey “To Be An Athlete”www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Ep.35 w/ Shauna Coxsey “To Be An Athlete”www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Ep.35 w/ Shauna Coxsey “To Be An Athlete”www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Ep.35 w/ Shauna Coxsey “To Be An Athlete”www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Ep.35 w/ Shauna Coxsey “To Be An Athlete”www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Ep.35 w/ Shauna Coxsey “To Be An Athlete”
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www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Tonde Katiyo Episode Art On circuits in the climbing gym, re-defining how we talk about climbing, and the idea of quality
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Show Notes for episode with Tonde Katiyo:

  • A bit of background on Tonde Katiyo
  • How his focus as a head routesetter has changed since moving from the Seattle Boulder Project to Allez Up in Montreal
  • His explanation of circuits in the

    bouldering

    gym and how they can benefit everyone
  • How to stay creative
  • There is no difference between commercial and competitive climbing
  • The history and theory behind the RIC (Risk, Intensity, Complexity) Scale; an elegant way of viewing problems
  • How how composes his routesetting crew and what he is searching for in a team
  • How do you define quality?
  • How to manage diversification of problems while maintaining quality
  • How he learned to make changes to a program without backlash from the clientele
  • His work with the routesetting group L’Ouvre-Boîte that he helped found

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www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Friction Labs Episode Art On why they wanted to bring a new product into a saturated market, what science the’re cooking up in the lab, and you can’t turn a corner without hearing about Friction Labs’ chalk!
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Friction Labs’ chalk seems to be the talk of the town these days. Everywhere we look someone is saying, “Friction Labs this…or Friction Labs that…” and most of it is about how good the product works. But… it’s just chalk, right?… Right?!
On this week’s episode, Kevin and Keah of Friction Labs tell us exactly why their chalk is superior. (hint): they do science and stuff.
If you want to know what all the fuss is about, check it out!

Show Notes for episode with Friction Labs:

  • Why they jumped into a market that is already saturated with product
  • The early processes and experiments for making chalk better
  • What it means when they “do science” is that they actually use a lab
  • The results of doing “science things” to their chalk
  • The difference between Friction Labs and everyone else
  • But does their product work too well?
  • How important design and marketing was in their initial business plan
  • They spill the beans about their ‘Secret Stuff’
  • What’s the difference between the three main Friction Labs product and which Kevin and Keah prefer
  • The deets on their super cool monthly subscription plan
  • The idea behind their Ambassador and Sponsorship programs, and why it seems like they sponsor everyone and their brother

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Help Friction Labs stop Frictile Disfunction by watching this video here!
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www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Sasha DiGiulian Episode Art On how she prioritizes her busy life, being a role model and athlete in the days of social media, and how she feels after sending…
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Sasha DiGiulian is a power house of the climbing scene. She is one of the few women in the world to send 5.14d and has won multiple local and national competitions. Along with climbing in the upper echelon of super senders, Sasha DiGiulian attends Columbia University, works with non-profit organizations, attends public events, and speaks at events about her experience. Sasha DiGiulian manages to somehow juggle all of this and keep it together, and in this episode she tells us how!

Show Notes for episode with Sasha DiGiulian:

  • How Sasha stays on top of attending events, public speaking, school at Columbia University, training, and climbing for fun without going insane
  • What Sasha plans to do with the shiny college degree she’s working on
  • What it means to be an athlete and role model in the days of social media
  • How she has seen the public perception of climbing change in recent years
  • Evolving specializations in the sport of climbing
  • The dream-like feeling she gets after sending her projects

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www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Ep.32 w/ Sasha DiGiulian “Hustlin’ and Bustlin'”www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Ep.32 w/ Sasha DiGiulian “Hustlin’ and Bustlin'”www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Ep.32 w/ Sasha DiGiulian “Hustlin’ and Bustlin'”www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Sasha DiGiulian hooking it in Spainwww.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Ep.32 w/ Sasha DiGiulian “Hustlin’ and Bustlin'”
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www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Ep.31-JP Cover Art On the effect that climbing is having on the South African communities, starting a climbing school, and what you can do to help…
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JP Du Plessis is a journalist from South Africa. He has been living on the De Pakhuys farm for a handful of years now at the base of many of the

bouldering

areas in the Rocklands. He watches as season after season, climbers flood the area and enjoy the bounty of

bouldering

the area has to offer. Now, JP DuPlessis tells us what sort of impact these climbers are having on the area. He has recently started a climbing school for the local children, many of whom are under privileged in a huge way. JP DuPlessis is watching as climbing grows in the area and wants to foster the future through these young promising locals.

Show Notes for episode with JP Du Pleissis:

  • A fantastic description of the Rocklands and the Cederberg Mountains.
  • The lives of the local children and how the climbing community is impacting them
  • The climbing school that JP and some other locals have started to get the kids out
  • Trying to raise money to start a competitive youth climbing team in South Africa
  • The positives and negatives to the impact of the climbing community

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www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Aicacia Young Episode Art On the importance of an optimized diet for climbing success, supplements and nutrition bars, and when to say, ‘yes!’ to baby food…
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Aicacia Young is a registered dietician who has jumped through many-a hoops to get where she is now. Aicacia has carved out a little niche for herself as a dietician with an emphasis on the climbing lifestyle. Though Aicacia can diagnose and suggest diets for many ailments, her favorite is how to optimize the climbers diet for peak performance. She even went so far as to write a book on the subject, which can be purchased on her website ClimbHealthy.com. On ClimbHealthy.com Aicacia Young also writes regular articles on health and well-being.

Show Notes for episode with Aicacia Young:

  • Will eating an optimized diet actually improve your climbing?
  • Why diet is important after 30
  • Her path from traditional nutrition to more specialized diet and nutrition
  • Understanding the sport of climbing and the dietary needs of climbers
  • How to assess if you need to cut certain foods out of your diet
  • Wondering if Cliff Bars, Pro Bars, Lara Bars, etc. are worth eating at the crag?
  • Did she say baby food?!
  • And the verdict on alcohol… it’s what you expect

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www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Brian Sweeney episode art
On managing, closing, and re-opening Basecamp @ Whitney Peak, the tallest climbing gym in the world; coaching a youth climbing team; and going to church in the mountains. 
 
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In this episode of Chalk Talk, I have the honor of speaking with one of my longtime friends in the climbing world, Brian Sweeney.
Brian Sweeney has spent many of his years developing

bouldering

areas throughout the Sierras including Donnor, Castle Peak, Doyle, the Sierra Buttes, and as far as Gold Bar, Washington. We talk about his accomplishments there, what he sees as his proudest moments, and what he envisions for the future of his developing.
On top of this, Brian Sweeney is the head coach of the non-profit Sierra Climbing Team, a talented photographer, and the manager of Basecamp @ Whitney Peak, boasting the tallest climbing wall in the world. The 164′ wall is attached to the outside of the Whitney Peak hotel in downtown Reno, Nv overlooking Reno’s famous, ‘Biggest Little City’ sign. The hotel also has a fully functional

bouldering

and workout gym on the second floor.
Along with covering the topics of his daily climbing industry work as a coach and a manager, we delve into the heart of his work as an artist and the development of his unique and awe-inspiring technique for capturing light and movement while climbing.

Show Notes for episode with Brian Sweeney:

  • The success of his non-profit climbing team, SCT.
  • Basecamp @ Whitney Peak’s grand re-opening competition with Kevin Jorgeson and Sasha DiGiulian.
  • His mentality for managing, coaching, and climbing, “we’re here to have fun!”
  • The growth of climbing now and into the future.
  • Photography and how climbing has influenced his art.
  • Pushing the limits in climbing, coaching, and photography.
  • His path to developing boulders from Gold Bar and Leavenworth to Castle Peak and the Sierra Buttes.
  • Why developing drives his passion for climbing.

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www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Climbing Business Journal Episode Art On the efforts of Climbing Business Journal, the growing statistics and economics of gyms, and the future of our industry…
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Mike Helt and Marlowe Kulley are the owners and administrators of Climbing Business Journal, the climbing industry’s greatest news source. Through CBJ, they are culling information about the climbing industry in hopes of creating a database of facts and numbers that can help owners and future investors better understand the industry and where it is headed.

Show Notes for episode with Climbing Business Journal:

  • The short, but glorious life of Routesetter.com
  • How trying to re-brand Routesetter.com gave birth to Climbing Business Journal
  • Their attempts at creating a database of statistics for the climbing industry
  • What trends American climbing gyms are seeing based on these statistics
  • Climbing industry growth and how much the market can sustain
  • Is climbing just a fad that is living in its heyday
  • So just how many gyms are there in the U.S.?
  • What’s the industry’s projected growth rate?
  • Which business model works the best? (Co-op, bouldering, full service, etc.)
  • What sort of population is necessary to support a climbing gym?
  • What the closing rate for climbing gyms is in America
  • And What the future holds for Climbing Business Journal

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www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news John Ellison Episode Art realsziesOn receiving his diagnosis of terminal cancer, growing the Climbers Against Cancer charity, and attempting to build a legacy that will live on in the hands of climbers worldwide….
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Show Notes for episode with Climbers Against Cancer:

  • John talks about his diagnosis of terminal cancer and the effect that had on him and his family
  • His natural positivity and how it helps everyone around him cope
  • How being open about his life with cancer helps friends and family feel more comfortable
  • How helping to raise money for a charity led him to want to do more
  • What it took to get the Climbers Against Cancer charity up and running
  • The flood of support…and work that came with the charity’s success
  • Watching the community grow and why climbing is so special
  • Why CAC has successfully donated to 7 different cancer charities in 7 different countries
  •  How to become involved on an individual level, as a company, or as a gym to help CAC
  • The truth behind true happiness that John has learned

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www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Josh Larson Episode Art On quarter-life crisis’, how he is preparing for the upcoming World Cup circuit, and his recent

bouldering

trip to Puerto Rico
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Show Notes for episode with Josh Larson:

  • How he left climbing for a ‘real job’ and realized that it was no life for him
  • The journey from 4 years of no climbing to pulling V13
  • What drives him to compete in climbing competitions
  • How his IFSC World Cup experience in Toronto last year helped him to succeed in Vail
  • The difference in experience and ability of the competitors from ABS Open to World Cups
  • His competition strategy for success
  • His plans for attending all five World Cups this year in 4 countries
  • How he is preparing to be on the top of his game
  • And his recent trip to Puerto Rico to climb on and develop boulders

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www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Tyson Schoene Cover Art This listener response episode was recorded using follow-up questions from Chalk Talk listeners after hearing my interview with Tyson from Episode 51. Enjoy!
**This episode is sponsored by Joshua Tree Skin Care and Gnarly Nutrition. Support this podcast by entering “chalktalk” at checkout for up to 20% off you next order!**
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www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news OnBouldering Episode Art  On what it takes to travel the globe filming World Cup competitions, what he thinks climbing media coverage needs, and where he’s off to this season…
**This episode is sponsored by Joshua Tree Skin Care, Power Company Climbing, and Gnarly Nutrition. Support this podcast by entering “chalktalk” at checkout for up to 20% off you next order!**
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Show Notes for episode with OnBouldering:

  • What Angel thought was lacking in Bouldering World Cup coverage
  • How the help of a friend inspired him to start OnBouldering.com
  • Going all in and having to borrow a camera for his first World Cup
  • How much of a financial investment being on the circuit is, and how he keeps it cheap
  • How he manages to film, edit, and publish the highlight reels so quickly (often the same day) with his one man team
  • Which competitions he is planning on attending this season
  • The constant worry about China’s IFSC competitions
  • The next step in media coverage for the competitive climbing world
  • What he plans to add this season to the content OnBouldering.com is already providing

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Duration: 2168 seconds
Size: 17.51 Mb
On his constant competitive life, how American Ninja Warrior has affected his life, and training to stay on top…
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Show Notes for episode with Sean McColl

  • Making the move to Chambery, France and living his double life
  • Getting invited to compete in American Ninja Warrior USA vs. The World
  • How the course felt with no previous practice on the obstacles
  • Why climbers seem to excel in ANW
  • Sean’s strategy in stage 3 trying to best Isaac Caldiero, and how Isaac took the win for Team USA
  • Comparing the growth of American Ninja Warrior and climbing as sports
  • His road from struggling to fund his World Cup travels to finally finding the right sponsors
  • What he thinks make him such a successful competitor in all three disciplines of competitive climbing and ANW
  • His training philosophies and how they evolved into what he does today
  • How youth climbing shaped him into the climber he is today
  • Setting achievable goals
  • How he manages to compete in all disciplines of climbing and ANW throughout the year and how he manages his training for each
  • Avoiding injury when climbing and training constantly

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Photo Gallery of Sean McColl:
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Duration: 3243 seconds
Size: 25.04 Mb
On everything he had to learn to publish his Tuolumne and Mammoth

bouldering

guides, his reluctance to ever work on a guide again, and why the Bishop guide wouldn’t leave him alone…
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Show Notes for episode with Charlie Barrett:

  • Why he decided to take on his first guide book, Mammoth Bouldering Guidebook
  • What he had to learn to make it happen
  • His early roots in boulder area development
  • Finishing the Mammoth guide and happy to be done with writing guidebooks
  • The phone call that led to Charlie inevitably writing the Tuolumne guide
  • What information to include in a guide
  • Why write a new Bishop guide? Isn’t the original good enough?
  • How Charlie ended up getting Wills’ blessing to re-write the book, and why Wolverine wouldn’t give him the rights to just update the original Bishop Guide
  • Changes that will be made to the new guide
  • Self-publishing vs. using a publisher
  • Learning to publish, sell, distribute, market, etc
  • The future of guidebooks!!!

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Duration: 2583 seconds
Size: 19.9 Mb
On becoming a youth climbing coach, his methods to training some of the best youth athletes in America, and advice for athletes bound for Nationals…
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Show Notes for episode with Tyson Schoene:

  • How he was born on the end of a rope and swindled into coaching youth climbers
  • What methods he used to train youth climbers when he first started out and how those methods have evolved into how he coaches today
  • Steps he took to manage team growth and expansion
  • Coaching kids both as a group and as individuals
  • Catering to each climber’s strengths and abilities
  • What about his coaching equation that has worked so well
  • How being part of a team positively impacts almost every aspect of a youth climber’s life
  • Keeping kids motivated, focused, and goal oriented
  • How much ‘off the wall’ training Team Vertical World engages in and what is safe for the competitors to do
  • Is it necessary to talk to youth climbers about diet and nutrition
  • How he prepares his climbers to succeed the weeks prior to the USA Climbing Youth National event

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Duration: 4311 seconds
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Ander Rockstad on climbing 5 months on in Hueco with minimal rest days, training and eating for that brutal schedule, and what you can do to build a better machine
**This episode is sponsored by Joshua Tree Skin Care and Gnarly Nutrition. Support this podcast by entering “chalktalk” at checkout for 20% off you next order!**
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Show Notes for episode with Ander Rockstad:

  • Catching up with Ander and his year since he was on the show for episode 10
  • Learning the body’s macro-cycles
  • How he was able to climb for 5 months in Hueco with only 7 rest days
  • How he avoided injury over those five months
  • Periodization and training cycles
  • Why collagen protein, vitamin C, and organ meats should be integral parts of a climber’s nutrition
  • What to do when life doesn’t allow you to stay on track with your training plans

Related Links for Ander Rockstad:

  • Ander Rockstad’s Contact | Ten adres pocztowy jest chroniony przed spamowaniem. Aby go zobaczyć, konieczne jest włączenie w przeglądarce obsługi JavaScript. 
  • Theraband Flexbar | www.Thera-Band.com
  • Camu Camu Berry (Vitamin C) | www.Purehealingfoods.com
  • Grass-Fed Beef Collagen Protein | Great Lakes Grass-Fed Collagen on Amazon
  • Joshua Tree Skin Care | www.JTreeLife.com *[sponsored] (enter ‘chalktalk’ for 20% discount)*
  • Gnarly Nutrition | www.GoGnarly.com *[sponsored] (enter ‘chalktalk’ for 20% discount)*

Related Chalk Talk Podcast Episodes for Ander Rockstad:

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Duration: 4124 seconds
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www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Justen Sjong Episode Art
On breathing into balance, relaxing, and what it takes to break down personal barriers.
Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes!
 
Justen Sjong has been training top level climbers for over 20 years. This time as a coach, both for his clients and himself has given him vast insight into what it takes to push climbers of all skill sets to the limit. Justen and his partner Kris Peters began Team of 2, a training and coaching company not long ago and have since trained some of the top athletes in climbing. They have trained climbers such as, Emily Harrington, Daniel Woods, Alex Johnson, and more. Though they have the tools to train these top level athletes, many of their clients are beginners and driven weekend warriors who also want to seek improvement.
In this episode, Justen and I talk about the mistakes that most climbers make when training, how far to push it and what causes injury, and his assessments of technique and how the average climber can assess themselves. Justen and Kris are always available for contact and ready to help climbers improve their performance. Just check out the links below.

Show Notes with Justen Sjong:

  • How he evaluates the weaknesses in a clients technique.
  • Analyzing the four categories of strong technical assessment: Balance, Thought, Movement, Rate of Use.
  • The importance of breath on the wall.
  • How, even if you don’t live in Boulder, you can benefit from Team of 2’s insight and programs.
  • How even the high-end, professional athletes can find value in having a trainer and coach.
  • How to move from ‘maintenance days’ to actual training days.
  • What it really takes to achieve your goals.
  • What’s the line between pushing yourself to the limit and risking injury?
  • The biggest mistakes climbers make while training and how to combat them.
  • The importance of goals.
  • How to assess yourself when training alone.

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Videos:
 
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Duration: 1871 seconds
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On the question that spurred their push up the Dawn Wall, the post-ascent media fury, and embarrassing moments on The Ellen Degeneres Show
**This episode is sponsored by Joshua Tree Skin Care and Gnarly Nutrition. Support this podcast by entering “chalktalk” at checkout for 20% off you next order!**
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Show Notes for episode with Kevin Jorgeson:

  • The hero’s journey that Kevin and Tommy went through
  • The catalyst moment that spurred all of the media attention
  •  How media and technology helped him get through pitch 15
  • Why this attempt was the was the perfect moment
  • The question, not the goal, that drove them up the Dawn Wall
  • How they managed the media storm that engulfed them on the wall and after
  • The scariest thing Kevin has ever done in his life
  • Embarrassing moments on the Ellen Degeneres Show with Tommy and Kevin
  • Meeting Michael Keaton and Steve Young
  • Insights into his next big project
  • Kevin’s non-profit, charity organization to introduce 1 million kids to

    rock climbing

    by 2025

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Duration: 3567 seconds
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On moving on from Team of 2 and starting Climbing Sensei, attending the Black Diamond athlete summit and crag cleanup in Spain, and tips for climbers and coaches alike
**This episode is sponsored by Joshua Tree Skin Care and Gnarly Nutrition. Support this podcast by entering “chalktalk” at checkout for 20% off you next order!**
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Show Notes for episode with Justen Sjong:

  • The motivation behind the move from Team of 2 to The Climbing Sensei
  • Climbing’s transition into a more traditional sport
  • The influx of climbing gyms and the impact that is having in the climbing world
  • Working with Black Dimond on a crag cleanup and re-bolting project in Spain
  • Understanding how to self-assess weaknesses when training
  • His new online training platform
  • On active listening as a coach and asking the right questions
  • The four stages of breathing and how to use them properly
  • Coaching coaches

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Duration: 2619 seconds
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www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Black Diamond Harness

Episode 2- Black Diamond Harness Review

In this episode 2, Ariel Castro, of Rugged Innovations, blasts our earbuds with his rundown of the Black Diamond Harness Pack. Sorry, to be more specific, the Black Diamond Momentum SA Harness Pack. It’s a great way to get started with the equipment that you need to get up the wall….or so he says. Check it out here or on his review, RuggedInnovations.com.
 

Black Diamond Harness review with the man:

Good news, Chalk Talk Podcast listeners, we here at Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast will be partnering with the product reviews of RuggedInnovations.com to bring you audio reviews of some of the latest and greatest climbing products on the market.
Nifty! Check it out!

Links:

 
 
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www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news BD Vapor Helmut - Episoe ArtGood news, Chalk Talk Podcast listeners, we here at Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast will be partnering with the product reviews of RuggedInnovations.com to bring you audio reviews of some of the latest and greatest climbing products on the market.
In episode 1, Ariel Castro of Rugged Innovations offers us in-the-field experience with the Black Diamond Vapor helmet. It is the second lightest climbing helmet on the market. And get this, they make the outer shell from kevlar. It’s like a bullet proof vest for your head! (Don’t test that theory!)
Anyway, for the full review, along with pictures, audio, and more, visit the website at RuggedInnovations.com. Word!
 
 
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Duration: 308 seconds
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www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news PBR Episode ArtOn what it takes to put on a major event, procuring and maintaining relationships with sponsors, and having fun while doing it.
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The Portland Boulder Rally is an amazing climbing competition. It is the largest single day event in the nation and this year it is putting up a $10,000 cash purse to the top 5 male and female competitors. This is the kind of incentive that is driving more than 20 pro climbers (along with most of Portland’s climbing community) to descend upon The Circuit Bouldering Gym this weekend. This year there will be 400 competitors, all competing in the Circuit’s newest and largest gym in Tigard, OR.
The competition will take place on Saturday October 4th, 2014, with Louder Than 11 live streaming the finals over the internet beginning at 6:15pm PST. Make sure to head over to PortlandBoulderRally.com to watch the battle for a share of $10,000 unfold. It’s gonna be good!

Show Notes with the Portland Boulder Rally:

  • The Origins of the Portland Boulder Rally
  • Uniting the boulderers of America
  • What it takes to put on the largest single-day competition in the nation
  • Procuring and building relationships with sponsors
  • Making it better each time.

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www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Ep.9 - Ian Powell (Part 2) Episode ArtOn the history and future of the shaping industry, why he wants to strangle routesetters, and the rise of Kilter Grips!
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This is part 2 of a 2 part series on Ian Powell and his company Kilter Grips. If you haven’t yet, take the time to listen to part one of the series. Ian’s rich, enigmatic narrative is worth the listen and it will catch you up to this episode.
Accompanied by his sales, marketing, and publicity manager, Jackie Hueftle, Ian Powell delves back into the history of starting eGrips with little to no money, and elaborates on his visions for the future of the hold shaping industry. Jackie does her best to keep him on track…no promises.
Ian has been a part of the climbing industry as a hold shaper since the early 90’s. He was a driving force during an era of impressive growth for the climbing industry, a time when a boom of young, artistic climbers around the country began to shape holds like never before. This renaissance of hold shaping was the boom that brought the climbing industry holds that gym climbers are still fiending for 20 years later.
Ian Powell began shaping for Straight Up holds with buddy Ty Foose. Eventually, Ian began eGrips and called on Ty to help him get the company up to speed. Wait…why am I telling you this? Just listen to the episode. Ian’s more fun to listen to anyway.

Show Notes on episode with Ian Powell:

  • Wherein Ian finally gets into the history of eGrips
  • The introduction of polyurethane holds
  • The hold shaping renaissance of the 90’s (featuring such classic shapers as: Ty Foose, Clark Shelk, Rob Mulligan, Louie Anderson, Mike Call, Mark Russo, Boone Speed, Tony Yaniro, and Ian Glass)
  • The hopes and dreams for the future of the hold shaping industry
  • Why he sometimes wants to strangle routesetters
  • And the future of hold shaping (featuring the new prodigies: Jason Kehl, Peter Juhl, Will Anglin)
  • Design philosophy and economics
  • And how Kilter is trying to innovate as a new company in a flooded market

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Videos:
 
 
Photo Gallery:
*Quick note: in this this new episode of Chalk Talk, I mention that you can see photos of Ian’s sculpture artwork on the website. However, Ian didn’t like the selection that I put on the site and is currently scanning new photos and sending them to me. Stand by…*
www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Ian Powell Kilter holdswww.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news World Cup Kilter Holdswww.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Ian Powell looking at Will Anglin's lost crimpswww.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Ian Powell at the Spotwww.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Ian Powell's Teegan serieswww.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news New holds by Ian Powellwww.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Ian Powell's workshopwww.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Ian Powell artwww.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Ian's Sculpture Art 2www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Ian's Sculpture Art 3
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www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Ian Powell Episode ArtOn his history of shaping, inspirations, and learning curves.
Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes!
 
This is part 1 of a 2 part series on Ian Powell and his company Kilter Grips. After enjoying this episode, make sure to find your way to part 2. It’s just as exciting and smile inducing as the episode you’re about to embark upon.
Accompanied by his sales, marketing, and publicity manager, Jackie Hueftle, Ian Powell delves into his process of hold shaping and the origins of Kilter Grips. Jackie does her best to keep him on track…no promises.
Ian has been a part of the climbing industry as a hold shaper since the early 90’s. He was a driving force during an era of impressive growth for the climbing industry, a time when a boom of young, artistic climbers around the country began to shape holds like never before. This renaissance of hold shaping was the boom that brought the climbing industry holds that gym climbers are still fiending for 20 years later.
Show Notes:
  • Egrips, Straight Up holds, Ty Foose, and how Ian began shaping
  • The origins of Kilter Grips
  • His process of shaping and where his inspiration comes from
  • Learning curves
  • What’s missing in the hold market
  • The interrelationship between setting and hold shaping
  • and lots of Ian’s tangential qualities….
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Videos:
 
 
 
Photo Gallery:
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Duration: 2272 seconds
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www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Louie Anderson Episode ArtOn hold shaping, gym ownership, and creating the world’s first routesetting competition.
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If you’re looking for the renaissance man of climbing, look no further, Louie Anderson is a known freelance hold shaper, gym owner, routesetter, author, climbing wall designer, and social media community leader. He has written a book on the fundamentals of routesetting, and has authored a guidebook on climbing in the Santa Monica mountains.
As a freelance hold shaper, Louie has greatly influenced the way that holds are imagined. He has shaped for over 20 different climbing hold companies including: ETCH, Climb It, SoIll, Rock Candy, and Kingdom, just to name a few. His shapes can vary from the basic, to the unique, to the realistic; varying in size from tiny, intricate foot holds, to features as big as a small adult.
And if shaping, routesetting, gym owning, putting up FA’s, and authoring guide books and books on routesetting wasn’t enough, Louie Anderson is also an active climbing wall designer and gym builder. He has been a part of the design and build of many of So. California’s gyms and has recently helped with the design and construction of the new Refuge Climbing Center in Las Vegas, set to open in October.
Louie is always seeking to advance climbing in whatever way he can. Just last year he was one of the minds that brought the Kingdom Games to fruition. The Kingdom Games are a new kind of competition, one that test the skills of routesetters. The first emanation of the Kingdom Games happened at Louie’s gym in So. California, The Factory. This year, the routesetteing competition will be held at the Earth Treks Climbing Center in Rockville, Maryland on September 5th and 6th, and will be renamed as the Setter Showdown.
to learn how the Setter Showdown will work, what the judges will be looking for, and everything else Louie, pop in those earbuds and turn up the volume to Episode 7 of Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast.
Show Notes:
  • How he started shaping and setting before climbing gyms existed (think, freeway overpasses).
  • The advent of So. Cal’s first climbing gym and what it brought to the community.
  • His first hold shapes and how that process has evolved.
  • How he creates his shapes from conception to final product.
  • How he decides what shapes to sculpt.
  • Hold ergonomics
  • On the gym bubble and the sustainability of the rapid growth of the climbing industry.
  • What he thinks it takes to stand out in a hold market that is saturated.
  • The introduction, function, and future of routesetting competitions such as last year’s Kingdom Games and the up coming Setter Showdown in Earth Treks, Maryland.
  • And what Louie hopes these setters games can teach us about the routesetting community.
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Duration: 2579 seconds
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www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Jon Episode ArtOn climbing around the world, finding time for competitions, and Psicobloc splashin’.
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John Cardwell is a professional climber for Five Ten, Adidas Outdoor, and Petzl. He is based out of Boulder, Colorado and also works as a coach and routesetter for Movement Climbing Gym.
When he’s not teaching tykes how to be more awesome on the wall, Jon escapes into the wilderness to find creative lines and large stones to climb. His most recent FA, of Nastalgie 5.14 in Rifle, is proof that he is dedicated to pushing himself to the max.
In this episode we talk about his travels to far away exotic places such as France and Japan, where he mingles with the locals and battles up projects that have eluded him for years. We also get into the joys of coaching, the pressures and pleasures of being a professional athlete, how he prepares for plastic pulling competitions, and his recent defeat (by the skin of Sharma’s teeth) in the 2014 Psicobloc competition.
Enjoy, Chalk Talk-ians!
Show Notes:
  • Delves into mentally preparing for the 2014 Psicobloc competition.
  • Bringing climbing to the mainstream.
  • How strategy played into his his performance at Psicobloc.
  • Traveling, competing, and climbing in Japan.
  • What stopped him this year in his ongoing battle with Realization (5.15a) in Céüse, France.
  • His philosophy on training for indoors and out.
  • Being an athlete for Adidas Outdoor.
  • And the future…
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Photo Gallery:
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www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Shauna and Leah episode art Shauna and Leah on this season’s IFSC World Cup, Acro Yoga, and having fun wherever they go…
**This episode is sponsored by Joshua Tree Skin Care, Power Company Climbing, and Gnarly Nutrition. Support this podcast by entering “chalktalk” at checkout for up to 20% off you next order!**
Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes!
 

Show Notes for episode with Shauna and Leah:

  • How they celebrated Leah’s birthday on the road
  • Trying to find time to play amidst a busy World Cup season
  • Making the travel fun
  • What’s behind Shauna’s success and the feeling of being injury free
  • What happened in India that caused Shauna to miss finals
  • How Leah went from being constantly at 21st to making semis every comp this season
  • A competitor’s view on the competition in Kazo, Japan
  • Why they’ve been incorporating Acro Yoga into their training
  • What their warm-up looks like behind the walls in isolation before a competition
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Photo Gallery of Shauna and Leah:
www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Leah Crane slabbing hardwww.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Ep.58 w/ Shauna Coxsey and Leah Cranewww.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Leah Crane tossing heels highwww.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Shauna Coxsey climbing in IFSCwww.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Leah Crane climbingwww.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Ep.58 w/ Shauna Coxsey and Leah Crane
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