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A Few from Black Mountain

Chris and guest host Lisa Hathaway retire once again to the Oasis in Moab to explore the deep psychological underpinnings behind secret cliffs.  Necessary evil or just the realm of egotistical dickheads? Turns out it can all be explained by lewd metaphors involving blossoming sexuality.  

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On Episode 30, I travel to a place called Gun Barrel to meet up with climber and author Matt Samet. We talk about his days developing Rifle, and his start as a climber. Yes, European listeners, we love guns so much we name our neighborhoods and towns after them. More importantly, we discuss the events depicted in his new book: Death Grip. Matt spent several years in a hellish battle with antidepressants and establishment psychiatry. Then we take a deep breadth, invite his toddler Ivan to the table, and the interview unwinds with a blatant plug for Matt's next project. Ah, commerce! Matt Samet at Facebook Buy Death Grip: A Climber's Escape from Benzo Madness  

Duration: 3236 seconds
Size: 37.3 Mb

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Ho, Man! On Episode 31 of the Enormocast I lure Andrew Bisharat and Hayden Kennedy into the closet for an old-fashioned bro-down. Andrew and I discuss whether or not the recent ascent of La Dura Dura, AKA the hard hard hardest route in the world, even matters. Hayden tells the story of his Piolet d'Or nominated ascent of the Ogre in Pakistan. I debase myself by begging Steve House and Josh Wharton to come on the show. And so much more. A return to form from the early days of the Enormocast: beer-fueled climbing spray! Doug Scott on the Ogre Perhaps the gnarliest mountaineering photo of all time 2013 Piolet d'Or nominees  

Duration: 4339 seconds
Size: 41.77 Mb

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Hola! Bienvenidos al Episodio 32 con Paige Claassen. I am taking time out of my precious Euro climbing vacation to post this up for you! On this installment, I meet up with Paige in a seedy hotel in Salt Lake City during the darkest days of winter to find out what makes her tick. She fills us in on how to stay motivated, how to hang on until it hurts, and how to win friends and influence people. She also talks about how to navigate the moral landmines of the heathen climbing world as a believer. Prepare to get your crush on! Paige's Website A Nice Video Profile of Paige by Celin Serbo  

Duration: 4254 seconds
Size: 40.84 Mb

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On Episode 33 of the Enormocast, I lure yet another subject to the Rodeway Inn in Salt Lake City (I think I deserve a couple free nights for all this publicity, eh?). Wunderkind Jonathan Siegrist sits down to reveal his climbing pedigree and a stunning background on big routes. He tells of early beat-downs in the mountains, and later beat-downs on El Cap. In between, he manages to climb a few routes and put up a few more. This toenail painting tough guy finally won my heart with a humble attitude and a reverence for his peers and mentors. Prepare to be swept off your feet like a prom queen after her 7th lemondrop shot. Jonathan's Blog Jonathan New Routing in Idaho 5 Second Film: Planking  

Duration: 3958 seconds
Size: 38.02 Mb

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On this very special episode of the Enormocast, I post up a virtually unedited recording of the very first Live Enormocast. Recorded Saturday morning, April 27th at Steve's Guitars in Carbondale, and during the 5Point Film Festival, the Live Ecast features guests Jonathan Thesenga, Kelly Cordes, Austin Siadak, Anson Fogel, and Jeff Hollenbaugh. Also, Sonnie Trotter makes and appearance via satellite. Every bump, click, clap, shout, laugh is here. Enjoy! Forge Studios (Anson Fogel) Vimeo Page Austin Siadak's Blog Sonnietrotter.com Kelly Cordes' Blog    

Duration: 5784 seconds
Size: 44.4 Mb

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On Episode 35 of the Enormocast, I lure Canadian climber Jen Olson to my closet with promises of glory. After giving her the tour of two thirds of the Bromuda Triangle (Rifle, Black Canyon, but not Indian Creek), Jen finally agreed to get on the mic and fill us in on how she ended up becoming such an accomplished alpinist. Jen tells us how she didn't need no stinkin' boyfriend to show her the ropes, and how she became the 7th Canadian woman to receive her international guiding certification, and managed to climb a little ice and rock in between. Jen Olson: as Canadian as Roller Skates and Duct tape. Jen's Blog Jen On Facebook Jen's Guiding Website    

Duration: 4276 seconds
Size: 41.05 Mb

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On Episode 36 of the Enormocast, I sit down with return guest BJ Sbarra and local guide and teacher Mike Schneiter to discuss new routing and bolting. In this episode, we manage to say "bolt" enough times to probably overload the servers over at the Supertopo Forum. Mike and BJ share their vast knowledge of putting steel to rock and creating climbs so we don't have to. To Bolt or Not to Be really is the question here in the Roaring Fork Valley, and BJ and Mike give us some good inside knowledge on why we ought not forget that even bolts can fail. Splitterchoss.com glenwoodclimbingguides.com (Mike's Company) A post by Mike about replacing bolts on Pretty Hate Machine in Rifle    

Duration: 4636 seconds
Size: 44.48 Mb

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On Episode 37, I sit down for what is probably the last episode from Studio A- the closet. The Royal We is getting thrown out on his royal ass because they're selling the joint and he can't afford to buy it (hint!). Duane Raleigh from Rock and Ice Magazine joins in for a discussion about safety, about why you shouldn't use the bowline, should put knots in your rap lines, and all sorts of other simple tips to staying alive. This guy has made all the mistakes and somehow lived to tell the tale, although not without his share of bone screws. Because I didn't use it in the show, here's a link to the classic Safety Dance Video.      

Duration: 4669 seconds
Size: 44.79 Mb

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On Episode 38 of the Enormocast, I eek out one more closet interview with Cincinnati rapper/climber/artist Kris Odub Hampton. Kris is an interesting character who traveled an unusual path to climbing from the mean streets of Cinci. His provocative climbing rap songs have drawn admirers and haters alike. But we also see the soft side of the man as he talks about his own mentors and inspirations. Don't worry, if this interview sucks, we'll hear about it on his next song. Find Odub's catalog here. The Float Video.    

Duration: 4350 seconds
Size: 41.76 Mb

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One Episode 39 of the Enormocast, me and Henry Barber nurse mild hangovers and sit down to talk about his 45 years of climbing. In the 70s, neither your crag nor your women were safe from Hot Henry's talents. Henry rode the wave of clean climbing and free climbing in the 70s into history with famous trips to Australia where he blew the lid off the grades, and Dresden, Germany where he learned barefoot climbing and sling craft. Listen and learn the old ways from a master. Henry and Pete Livesey battle it out. More Awesome old footage.    

Duration: 5134 seconds
Size: 49.23 Mb

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In episode 3, I park the Enormocast headquarters outside the Alpinist headquarters to talk with alpinist and internet sensation Kelly Cordes. Kelly reports on the old daze and new days in Estes Park, Colorado, the Ouray Icefest, and the world's most inappropriate Halloween costume. Always a pleasure to talk with this simple, yet complicated, dark, yet illuminated, man (and his haircut). Too much is never enough- more Kelly: Patagonia's the Cleanest Line Kelly's Personal Blog Kelly's Mullet    

Size: 43.74 Mb

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On Episode 40 of the Enormocast, I sit Doug Shepherd down in my comfortably air conditioned hotel room on a sweltering SLC day to discuss alpine climbing. A relative unknown, Doug has climbed in the greater ranges of North and South America and quietly racked up impressive ascents and the respect of his more famous peers. Doug and I discuss the nature and risks of modern alpinism, why community matters, and why its so easy to be smart and stupid at the same time when it comes to alpine ascents. We also give a shout out to Doug's lost comrade Kevin Landolt. A story of climbing in "The Park" by Doug  

Duration: 3841 seconds
Size: 36.9 Mb

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On Episode 41, I have the distinct pleasure and honor to sit down with one of my heroes, Paul Piana. Paul spent the 80s and 90s defining big free climbing along with his intrepid partner, Todd Skinner. These cowboys shirked tradition and set new standards for big rock climbs all over the continent, hemisphere, and world. Paul talks about his upbringing as the descendent of immigrants, his Wyoming roots, and his storied relationship with one of the all time greats, Todd Skinner. Above all, Paul proved himself to be the steadiest of partners from start to finish.    

Duration: 5901 seconds
Size: 45.29 Mb

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On Episode 42 of the Enormocast, I sit down with Midwestern refugee, Luke Mehall. Luke is an author, publisher, poet, and climber who is not afraid to bear and bare his soul on the written page. In Episode 42, we remember Zines, learn about when it is and isn't appropriate to inundate a women with poetry, and why a small part of me hopes Luke fails miserably. Like so many authors, Luke is a purveyor of truth through mythology, and a creator of real stories that may not have happened, and a damn good story-teller. www.climbingzine.com Luke's Blog Listen to Luke Read from his book: Climbing Out of Bed  

Duration: 4029 seconds
Size: 38.69 Mb

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On Episode 43 of the Enormocast, the Royal We sits down in the immobile studio with Asa Firestone. Asa recently started a company called Beyond Gear to help his mission to get underprivileged Brazilian kids out climbing on their neighborhood rocks. Asa talks about his mission, his lost partner, and why we all need to think about giving back. Beyond Gear (and a great video about Asa's mission) First Ascenders Climb for Life      

Duration: 3472 seconds
Size: 33.38 Mb

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On Episode 44 of the Enormocast, a chance meeting leads to an enlightening interview with Iraq war vet Joshua Brandon. Josh explains how struggles with PTSD led him to finding solace in the mountains and climbing (turns out that mountaineering has many of the thrills of combat but without the guys shooting at you). He explains his mission with the Sierra Club to help his brothers and sisters in the military find an outlet in the mountains, and what its like to try to get the Department of Defense to hug a few trees. Sierra Club: Mission Outdoors Sierra Club: Military Families and Veterans Intitiative Josh's buddy Stacy Bare on the Dirtbag Diaries  

Duration: 4105 seconds
Size: 39.42 Mb

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On Episode 45 of the Enormocast, I sit down with kayaker slash ice climber Aaron Mulkey. With the strength of 10 men, Aaron attacks both first descents and first ascents with zeal and unwavering psyche. Aaron admits that he's a bit of an adrenaline junky and a lucky optimist that gets in over his head once in a while. In addition, I tell the tale of my near death at the hands of the screaming barfies. Good times at the Rodeway Inn.         Aaron's Website: Coldfear.com  

Duration: 4218 seconds
Size: 40.49 Mb

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On Episode 46, the Enormocast reunites with Jen Vennon Bisharat and Michael Logan from Episode 14 for another Listener Mail Hoedown. On this installment, we revisit guy/girl climbing issues, and we try to throw a lifeline to a lost listener trapped in Slovakia. We discuss grade chasing and free climbing and why we are all so god damn special. I also announce my pending podcast about squash.  

Duration: 4092 seconds
Size: 39.29 Mb

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On Episode 47, James Lucas returns to the Enormocast. If we recall, James told us about his pie baking defeat in the 2012 Carbondale Mountain Fair pie baking contest in Episode 21, and this summer he returned for vengeance on the old ladies of Carbondale. James also fills us in on the new developments this year in big free climbing in Yosemite, and the overblown reaction to his "desecration" of Midnight Lightning in Camp 4. James' blog post about the 2013 CMF Pie Baking Contest James' offending blog post about Midnight Lightning The 2014 Pie Baking Contest Results    

Duration: 4498 seconds
Size: 43.16 Mb

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On Episode 48 of the Enormocast, we arrive at the two year anniversary of the Enormocast! Whoot! I know. Right? More importantly, British hotshot Hazel Findlay sits down in the Mobile Studio amidst an unfortunate desert blizzard to fill us in on her origins in the British climbing scene, her life as a sponsored monkey, and girl stuff. She also inadvertently coins the phrase "loads of men". Try not to be lulled into a dreamlike state by the smooth accent of the Spice Girl formerly known as Hammy the Hamster. Hazel's Website The Reel Rock Tour    

Duration: 3611 seconds
Size: 34.44 Mb

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On Episode 49 of the Enormocast, we rebroadcast audio from the 5point Aspen event from Feb 2013. During that event, I hosted Alex Honnold and Michael and Hayden Kennedy in front of a capacity crowd at the Wheeler Opera House in Aspen. Honnold is conspicuously low key, Hayden is a smartass, and Michael drops wisdom like a Shaolin master. 5point Aspen 2014 schedule The Summit animated film          

Duration: 2368 seconds
Size: 22.85 Mb

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On Episode 4, I hang out in BJ Sbarra's kitchen fending off his vicious dog, Thunderpup, while he goes on and on and on about his big deal website, splitterchoss.com. Ooh, Outside Magazine's Top Ten Climbing Blog list, ooh, seven years old, ooh launched my internet career. Blah, blah, blah, BARK. Anyway, we talk about the future of internet media and why we are both selfless princes among men. Check it.  

Size: 58.62 Mb

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On Episode 50, Brendan Leonard returns to the show for an interview with your not-so-humble host, Chris Kalous. Chris talks about his strange premeditated journey to climbing, his vision for the Enormocast, and even manages NOT to say Free Rider, or the Black Canyon (but a couple Indian Creeks do slip in). You asked for it, now open up and say "Ahhhh". GMF: John Grant (go buy this song). Semi-rad.com (go buy Brendan's book).  

Duration: 5758 seconds
Size: 55.18 Mb

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On Episode 51, I have posted up the first half of a far-reaching interview with legend Lynn Hill. In this installment, Lynn talks about her near death experience, her beginnings in So Cal, and her association with some of the greats from those halcyon days in the 70s in Josh. She also reveals why she was so attracted to John Long (spoiler: its the muscles). Buy her book at lynnhillclimbing.com  

Duration: 3496 seconds
Size: 33.61 Mb

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On Episode 52, we wrap up the second half of my epic interview with Lynn Hill. See Part 1 here. Believing that she could do it was all that it really took for Lynn to free the Nose in 1993, and again in a day in 1994 (nearly 20 years ago! Holy crap!). This feat cemented her legacy as one of the greatest ever to pull on a pair of rock slippers. She also fills us in on dinking, Tub Talks, and who inspires her in the current women's climbing scene. Lynn's Website.    

Duration: 3319 seconds
Size: 32.04 Mb

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On Episode 53 of the Enormocast, Josh Wharton and I grow drowsy in an uncomfortably warm conference room at the George Something-or-other library in Boulder. Josh shares the highs and lows of his upbringing, talks about his scariest moment in a life of scary moments, and admits that he cried through his first climbing expedition. JW is hot off his latest send: a new baby girl, and though he thinks he's clipped the chains on that one, for a guy who seems to always have a plan, between you an me, I think Josh is in for a surprise or two from life with his new baby-best-friend. Just sayin'. Josh swimming with the old gals. Josh Climbing in RMNP (and a good testament to why I don't alpine climb). El Gigante by Andy Burr.  

Duration: 4544 seconds
Size: 43.6 Mb

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On Episode 54, the Royal We sits down with a bevy of ladies to talk about what makes the perfect climbing male. We discuss superfluous shirt-off climbing, buddy spray, and if climbing hard makes one sexier. A gallon of Cabernet, some nice curtains, and my deep tenor is all it took to get the ladies to open up about their fantasy man. We also hash out the climbing-date-that's-not-a-date-but-it-is-a-date problem. Dig this Video of Cool and the Gang's Ladies Night.  

Duration: 4485 seconds
Size: 43.04 Mb

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On Episode 55 of the Enormocast, I seek out mad desert climber Eric Bjornstad. Though confined to a care facility in Moab, Eric is as bearded and bright-eyed as ever. He recounts his years climbing with Beckey, writing guidebooks, and mastering the dirtbag dream in a pre-outdoor-lifestyle Moab few can remember. Other than his homie Fred Becky, not many can match Eric's longevity in the sport. More on Eric at Alpinist The Eiger Sanction Trailer    

Duration: 2646 seconds
Size: 25.51 Mb

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On Episode 56 (not 55!) of the Enormocast, I fight the sound of the clinking coffee cups and the hiss of the espresso machine to bring you a Live Enormocast from Bonfire Coffee in Carbondale. The winds of 5Point Film Festival brought my three guests to town: agitator Jonathan Thesenga, OG photog Chris Noble, and Dirtbag Diaries auteur Fitz Cahall. JT defends himself for his Deal-Breakers piece on Rock and Ice, and we call Quebecois crack master Peewee Ouellet. Chris talks about his new book, Woman Who Dare, and the good old days when you actually had to be somebody to take a good pic.  Fitz and I finish our talk with a hug, enough said. So grab yourself a mug of coffee, and join us for the second Live Enormocast from 5Point.  Woman Who Dare at Amazon JP's long lost cousin Maryse Ouellet A followup to the CBDs article at R&I  

Duration: 4092 seconds
Size: 39.29 Mb

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On Episode 57 of the Enormocast, we blaze through four separate mini-interviews with four excellent climbers recorded at the 2014 Redrock Renedezvous. Nik Berry is a young(er) guy coming out of SLC and destroying everything he touches, with a recent free ascent of the Hallucinogen Wall under his belt. Chris Shulte is a soul-boulderer with a jones for squeezing fridges. Our old friend Kate Rutherford returns to show her appreciation for the Enormonation. Dawn Glanc, a ice climber and guide from Ouray, CO rounds out the cast. Fast and furious, short and sweet, young and restless. Nik Berry doing something kinda dumb. Chris Shulte futzing around in Indian Creek. Exquisite Jewelery by Kate Rutherford. Dawn Glanc in her element.    

Duration: 3301 seconds
Size: 31.75 Mb

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              On Episode 58, the Enormocast breaks the boulderer drought by bringing on compression problem savant, Chris Schulte. Chris arrived in Carbondale to bartend for the 5Point Film Festival, and graciously followed up his mini interview on Episode 57 with a full length sit down. Chris talks of his oddball existence in Indian Creek, his humble origins in BFE, Texas, and his rocky path towards enlightenment through bouldering. Hopefully, Chris is the first padsniffer of many to grace the Enormocast studios. Bouldering on the Wolf (AKA Air Wolf) in Indian Creek. The AirWolf chopper rises out of a mesa in Navajolands.  

Duration: 4213 seconds
Size: 40.45 Mb

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On Episode 59 of the Enormocast, I finally lure the elusive (at least for me) artist Jeremy Collins into the Enormostudio for a chat. The free-range convo covers art, family, faith, climbing, and expeditions. Jeremy explains where the connection between his art and his love of climbing intersect, and how climbing is more than just something he does. By the end, Jer is clearly relieved and elated to have finally succumbed to my wiles and gone on his first Enormodate.   All things Jeremy Collins at jercollins.com  

Duration: 4589 seconds
Size: 44.04 Mb

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On Episode 5, I sit down in Studio A with author and climber Andrew Bisharat. Andrew warms up to the idea of using his voice instead of his pen to communicate with the outside world and explains his philosophy behind writing, climbing, why Rock and Ice is like his family, and the best and worst ways to die. Hint: one has to do with drinking just a little too much urine. He also puts the kybosh on my pending Carhart sponsorship. Thanks, jerk! More Mandrew on the web: AB's site: eveningsends.com Andrew's Book: SCFTRTRTFCS    

Size: 45.98 Mb

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On Episode 60, we record a live one on Climbing Lawyer Dan Markoff's deck overlooking Boulder, Colorado. Climbers Topher Donahue and Chris Van Leuven join me for a discussion of what it takes to lose that new climber smell, and replace it with old trad-climber stink. The sometimes contentious discussion ranges from toothbrush shaving, to where to store your nuts, and, luckily, a few pearls of wisdom get dropped by my guests. I'm pretty sure we don't mention the Black, Indian Creek, or Rifle: perhaps a first on the Enormocast. As a bonus, stick around to the end for a moment of slam poetry created at the event by Jena Kirkpatrick. Jena Kirkpatrick: Poet for Hire. Trad with Topher class from the Colorado Mountain School.      

Duration: 3478 seconds
Size: 33.44 Mb

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On Episode 61 of the Enormocast, I roll the mobile studio to the Northern Corner of the Bromuda Triangle for a sit down with author Don McGrath about his book, Vertical Mind. Along with Jeff Elison, Don wrote Vertical Mind about how to train the mind to work with the body in climbing, rather than, as it often does, turn us into whimpering, scared little weasels. Don reveals that even in a simple day at Rifle, I had exhibited embarrassingly little will over my own mind and am in need of some serious reprogramming. So come along for this ride into your inner space, and maybe find some tricks for taming those fears that you didn't even know you had. Vertical Mind the book. Don's Training Blog: Master Rock Climber 50 Athletes Over 50  

Duration: 4155 seconds
Size: 39.89 Mb

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On Episode 62 of the Enormocast, dedicated boulderer Angie Payne is lured into the sweltering Mobile Studio for a deep talk about her inner workings. Angie candidly tells us about her struggles with perfectitude, expectations, and the midwest mindset. Climbing Vwhatever did not come easy to the former Cinci golden girl. Angie Payne took the road less traveled, and that continues to make all the difference. Angie's Website    

Duration: 3893 seconds
Size: 37.4 Mb

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On Episode 63 of the Enormocast, I sit down in the Mobile Studio (this time, actually mobilized to Lander, WY) for some SCIENCE! Dr. Jared Vagy is a Doctor of Physical Therapy and an orthopedic specialist with a whole bunch of other letters after his name, and he has studied climbing injury prevention like nobody before him. Dr. Vagy's mission in life is to put surgeons out of business by preventing injury before it occurs, or helping you rehab without the knife. From dirtbag to pro, we all have trouble taking the time to warmup, stretch, and do strength-training off the wall, so Jared has put together the simplest methods possible to keep us out of injury depression: 5 minutes and a rubber band is all it takes. Listen and stop the pain! Check out the Good Doctor at theclimbingdoctor.com and buy his book.  

Duration: 3851 seconds
Size: 36.99 Mb

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On Episode 64 of the Enormocast, I sit down will friends Bill Ramsey and Dan Mirsky. Bill is a climber who cut his teeth during the pre-sport days at Smith Rock, went on to develop the early hard climbing in the Red, and now tics routes at will in Vegas. Dan is an up and coming sport climber and at times, serious road dog. Together, they form the book ends of 25 years of sport climbing. Dan's Grasshopper to Bill's Master Po, the two met a decade ago in Rifle and formed a bond that crossed generations and inspired each other. Mentoring, trying hard, dealing with failure, climbing into old age, and more is covered in this serious climbing conversation. Strap in for deep thoughts and good laughs. NRG Craggin' Classic Sept 19-21. Forks Fest Sept 27-28. Idaho Mountain Fest Sept. 25-28    

Duration: 3613 seconds
Size: 34.45 Mb

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On Episode 65 of the Enormocast, I sit down in some random hotel room in Salt Lake City for a chat with my good friend Russ Clune. Gunks local, long time hardman, world traveller, Clune fills us in on the beginnings of sport climbing, comp climbing, and the heyday of European free climbing. He participated in some of the earliest comps in the US and Europe and embraced new ethics and methods to push free climbing forward. Russ fills in the murky history of Lycra and makes a plea for the return of Team Motivation's trophy. Also, Maria the maid drops by to hand out towels. Footage from 1988 Snowbird Sport Climbing Comp Evening Sends: The Day I Sent Balance of Soul by Russ Clune  

Duration: 4043 seconds
Size: 38.82 Mb

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On Episode 67 of the Enormocast, I pull one more interview out of the dingy hotel in SLC. Dawn Glanc, from Episode 57: Mega pack, returns for a full interview. From 4x4 enthusiast to Black Hills badass, to Ouray CO homegirl, Dawn's path to ice climbing and guiding was never set in stone. Also, Dawn is fired up about gender stereotypes and helping woman find their place in the mountains, alone and free. Chicks Climbing Dawn Glanc: Guide The Always Video that got Dawn "Fired up!"    

Duration: 4174 seconds
Size: 40.08 Mb

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On Episode 68 of the Enormocast, I pull out one from a few months ago in Lander. Photographer and climber Becca Skinner sits down in the Mobile Studio for a deep talk. Becca fills us in on growing up in a climbing family, losing her beloved Uncle, Todd Skinner, and taking a step back from the pressure to climb. In the meantime, she finds a new way to honor the legacy of her famous uncle by adventuring with her camera in tow. Finally, we discuss her photography projects returning to the disasters in New Orleans with Katrina and the tsunami in Indonesia. Becca Skinner Photography Becca Skinner Photography: Facebook  

Duration: 3739 seconds
Size: 35.92 Mb

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On Episode 69 of the Enormocast, we present a LIVE show from the New River Gorge Craggin' Classic. The Enormocast hosts guests Kenny Parker of Waterstone Outdoors and New River Guidebook Author Mikey Williams in the American Alpine Club campground above the New River Gorge. In front of a raucous crowd, we hash out the long time rivalries between the New and the Red, and the East and the West. Kenny and Mikey know both the long history and new scene in the New and the "MidAtlantic". Great crowd and good times. Join the AAC if you know what's good for you!  

Duration: 2654 seconds
Size: 25.58 Mb

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Oh, man. On Episode 6 of the Enormocast, I sit down in a remote secret bunker deep in the Rockies with the man of the hour and my friend: Hayden Kennedy. HK comes clean about his season in Patagonia with Jason Kruk and their now infamous decision to remove the headwall bolt ladders on Cesare Maestri's 1970 Compressor Route. Quite a ride its been. This is Part 1. More fun reading on the Compressor Controversy: Kelly Cordes' Cleanest Line Blog Rolo Garibotti's site Italian Stefano Lovison's view Arnaud Petit's view Everyone else's view: Supertopo Everyone else's view: Mountain Project      

Size: 84.82 Mb

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On Episode 70 of the Enormocast, we dip into the neglected mail bag for listener mail. My guests Simon Longacre, Steve Dilk, Tracy Wilson (from Episode 15), and I answer burning listener questions. What do you do about scary gumbies at the cliff? How do you pick up a hot climber girl? How to not act like a douche at the cliff and much, much more. Tune in to hear sage advice, useless commentary, and complete BS in equal measure.  

Duration: 4388 seconds
Size: 42.12 Mb

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On Episode 71 of the Enormocast, I sit down with New River Gorge climber and Team Texas alum, Jessa Goebel. It also happens to be the 3rd anniversary of the Enormocast. Whoopee! 3 years behind us. Good lord, that's a lot of frothy spray. Jessa talks about rebelling in her youth and anchoring her attitude in climbing. She goes on to describe the outlet of Team Texas, a East German like climber training program that creates super human climbing machines out of boys and girls. Finally, the New River Gorge brings her home and adventure becomes her mantra. And after 29 years, she's earned balance with climbing, work, and life, for the moment, anyway.      

Duration: 4380 seconds
Size: 42.04 Mb

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On Episode 72 of the Enormocast, I barrel through record snow in the Previa to meet up with Kelly Cordes. Kelly has graced the Mobile Studio and the Live Stage on the Enormocast, but on this night, he proudly recounts the harrowing task of writing (and saying) The Tower: A Chronicle of Climbing and Controversy on Cerro Torre. Kelly trotted the globe in search of answers to the long standing mystery of Cesare Maestri's claim to the first ascent of Cerro Torre in 1959. He also enlightens events surrounding the controversial chopping of the 1970 Compressor Route. Finally, he calls for justice in the death of Toni Egger. Rolo Garbotti's A Mountain Unveiled All Things Patagonia at pataclimb.com Hayden Kennedy on Chopping the Compressor Route Episode 1, Epsiode 2 More Kelly Cordes: Facebook, website, A great photo  

Duration: 4824 seconds
Size: 46.28 Mb

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On Episode 73 of the Enormocast, I pay a visit to Devils Tower Legend, Frank Sanders. Frank runs the Devils Tower Lodge in the shadow of the Tower. His first magical trip to DT occurred in the early 70s, and he's never lost that loving feeling. Frank's climbing accomplishments span three continents, and include climbing at Devils Tower 365 days straight in 2007-08. A lover of life, a giver of wisdom, man of faith, Frank welcomes climbers of all stripes into the fold at the Tower. A Really Random Video of Devils Tower  

Duration: 4622 seconds
Size: 44.08 Mb

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On Episode 74, we begin by celebrating the Enromocast's 1 millionth download- Uncle Phil, I know it was you! Then I get to the conversation with The Access Fund Executive Director, Brady Robinson. Brady talks about talking his way into his post at the AF, being Jimmy Chin's wingman, and all the amazing things that the Access Fund does to make sure YOU have a place to climb. We finish by explaining the Rock Project and  The Pact, while I complain about old people like us. I nice clean recording from the bowels of the Rodeway Inn in Salt Lake City. Support the Access Fund    

Duration: 4515 seconds
Size: 43.06 Mb

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On Episode 75 of the Enormocast, I sit down in Salt Lake City with visiting British jack-of-all-climbing-trades, Stevie Haston. Stevie has a reputation as a malcontent with a short fuse, but what I find on a somewhat blurry morning is a soft spoken and altogether warmer individual than the climbing world would have us expect. Stevie talks about his meager beginnings, his constant pricking of the French, his love of rabbits, and waxes damn near poetic about his famous winter solo of the Walker Spur. Finally, he calls for more hardness and weirdness in climbing. Let Stevie's accent and smooth tones soothe your jones for candid climbing talk. Stevie's entertaining blog. Stevie's climbing bonafides. Another take on Stevie's reputation.

Duration: 3866 seconds
Size: 37.14 Mb

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On Episode 76 of the Enormocast, I sit down deep in the heart of Catalunya with American climber Ethan Pringle. A wary and weary Ethan sits down to bare his soul about his motivations as a pro climber. Its not all proud sends and free shoes in Ethanlandia. Ethan talks about the evolution of his career, his highs and lows as a climber, and fighting the worse parts of his nature. He wonders openly about his future, his place in the community, and where climbing will fit in down the road. Finally, Ethan tells of eating his first really big juicy burger in Greenland with Mike Libecki. Ethan talks about his fight with Jumbo Love .15b

Duration: 4524 seconds
Size: 69.3 Mb

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On Epsiode 77, I'm working hard for you on my Spanish vacation tracking down Austrian kraftpakets Kilian Fischhuber and Anna Stöhr. My friend Bernardo Giminez facilitated a meeting and Anna and Kilian were gracious enough to invite me into their temporary home to talk. In perfect English, they explain their military sponsorship, the Austrian climbing scene, and what they love about climbing. Crossing the cultural gap, we also discuss guns in 'Merica.

Duration: 3218 seconds
Size: 49.37 Mb

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On Episode 78 of the Enormocast, I send some love north to America's Hat with an interview with Canadian Superstar, Sonnie Trotter. Sonnie sits down in a van by a lake in Siurana, Spain to talk about his origins, his inspirations, and his journey through most of the disciplines that climbing has to offer. Living up to the Canadian reputation for being swell, Sonnie gets rather embarrassed when I point out that he is now an inspiration for a generation of Canuck climbers. This is actually Sonnie's second appearance on the cast, and we're glad to have him back. sonnietrotter.com A Bouldering Honeymoon.

Duration: 3663 seconds
Size: 35.21 Mb

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  On Episode 79 of the Enormocast, I get a decent recording from the live event at Mountain Gear's Red Rock Rendezvous. This premier climbing festival brings in hundreds for clinics, climbing, music, beer, and...well, lots of beer. My guests Libby Sauter, Ethan Pringle, and Andres Marin talked about fear, and in Ethan's case loathing, from the stage while a dyno comp went down not meters away. But my guests captivated the crowd with tales of the Pakistani Death Loop, La Reina Mora, and a lesson on how to STFU. Good times at a great event.

Duration: 2818 seconds
Size: 27.14 Mb

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In Part 2 of my epic interview with Hayden Kennedy, we get to the bottom of the arguments against Jason Kruk and Hayden's decision to chop the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre. Hayden withers under my pillorying verbal attack, let me tell you. Begging for mercy. I also beg PBR for a sponsorship. Do you hear me? I will do anything for you, my overlords.  

Size: 61.86 Mb

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On Episode 80 of the Enormocast, I lure Swiss climber Nina Caprez into the van down by the reservoir. Another exciting interview in the Spain chronicles, Nina charms the hell out of me by explaining why big climbing rules her world, why social media is not really her thing, and why she just isn't that scared most of the time. She appears to not have a lazy bone in her body and her psyche level, even on this rest day, is off the charts. The Swiss Princess no more, Nina Caprez strikes an elegant, yet powerful pose on this Enormocast. In other news: La Sportiva is a new Enormocast Sponsor! Nina and Cedric Lachat on Silbergeier Nina and Jstar in the Verdon Nina's Blog  

Duration: 3814 seconds
Size: 36.64 Mb

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On Epsiode 81, I sit down at the Bonnie Springs Hotel during the Red Rock Rendezvous for a chat with a personal hero: Peter Croft. While I try to contain my fawning, Peter expounds on his relationship with John Bachar, the first free solo of Astroman, El Cap and Half Dome in a day, and his humble beginnings in Canada. Peter reveals that despite his penchant for going ropeless, its the moments with friends and his own heroes that he cherishes most. He warns us off the teat of the camera, and makes sure we know he considers himself a bit of "lummox" when it comes to climbing. Alas, its Peter F-ing Croft! I can't hardly believe it myself. Peter on the Incredible Hulk

Duration: 5970 seconds
Size: 57.2 Mb

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On Episode 82 of the Enormocast, I sit down in a magical place with mountaineering legend and Bozeman native, Jack Tackle. From the Montana to the Himalaya to Patagonia, and most importantly, to Alaska, Jack Tackle has set light and fast standards since before that was a "thing". This dogged, humble, hardman is still revered by generations that have literally followed in his footsteps. Jack reflects on his major ascents, friends lost, and a life of expedition climbing. The deep intonement of Jack Tackle's baritone is like the voice of the mountain itself.

Duration: 3936 seconds
Size: 37.8 Mb

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On Episode 83 of the Enormocast, I sit down in front of a live audience at Bonfire Coffee in Carbondale, CO during the 5Point Film Festival with Hayden Kennedy, Andrew Bisharat, and Brenden Leonard. We discuss the mainstream media's sudden love affair with rock climbing, social media, the internet and whether climbing has lost its soul. Turns out that cappuccino driven spray is just as frothy as the booze driven kind. Andrew's website Evening Sends. Brendan Leonard's website Semi-rad. Hayden Kennedy trying to get a call out in Red Rocks on his flip-phone.

Duration: 3831 seconds
Size: 36.8 Mb

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On Episode 84, I sit down in a clean well-lit place in SLC during The Black Diamond Rock Project with German climber Daniel Jung. Daniel shakes off a nap while talking about his upbringing in Deutschland. He chronicles his humble beginnings and inspirations to his modern day building of a local gym for his fellow kletterpflanzen. Once king of the road in Europe, Daniel now splits his time with his brother Markus operating Jungs Boulderhalle and still climbing and living in the dirt with his friends. A Gym and a Crag Video Daniel in Siurana  

Duration: 3756 seconds
Size: 36.09 Mb

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On Episode 85 of the Enormocast, I sit down with Austrian climber Barbara Zangerl. Barbara started off an obsessive phenom boulderer,  but now she climbs hard, long, scary routes, and she's no slouch on the sport routes, either. And, she recently dialed in the cracks, as well. Babsi, as she is also known, helps me understand the Austrian zeitgeist and what it takes to keep trying wenn alle Stricke reißen. She's always looking for the new challenge, including speaking English to an American for an hour, and that's why we love her. Babsi in Switzerland Another Recent Send    

Duration: 4168 seconds
Size: 40.02 Mb

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On Episode 86 of the Enormocast, I invite Mikey Schaefer- alpinist, rock climber, and photographer- into the Mobile Studio parked in Lander City Park for a chat. Mikey arrived just moments after a harsh allergic reaction rendered his eyes nearly useless. After a cold compress of PBR cans, and a couple administered orally, we sat down to business. Mikey fills us in on how he became a pro photog, how he fell in love with climbing, and how he founds his obsession in Patagonia. Living life in 6 month increments, Mikey says he may not be a pro-sesh photog forever, but without climbing, he might simply fade away. Mikey in the film: Force Cool Moonwalk Video with Dean Potter Mikey's website

Duration: 5385 seconds
Size: 51.63 Mb

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On Episode 87 of the Enormocast, after some serious cajoling, I sit down in the Mobile Studio with my friend Madaleine Sorkin. A self-professed quiet and closed person, Madaleine is remarkably frank and forthcoming on an episode that deals with finding oneself through climbing, sexuality and gender politics, and her continued struggles with self identity. Oh, and we talk about climbing, too, including her cool head, hardest sends, and proclivity to turn even the most chill climbing moments into adventures, for better or worse...or even stupid. Tragedy Averted Mad's Website

Duration: 4416 seconds
Size: 42.38 Mb

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On Episode 88, I return to the Mobile Studio with SuperTopo founder and El Cap Ace, Chris McNamara. Chris started early with an obsession for the big stone, and moved on to a life of adventure in business, in the sky, and around the world. Never one to wait for opportunity to come to him, Chris took inspiration from the Golden Age when so many Yosemite climbers went on to success as entrepreneurs, adventurers, scientists, and beyond. He has climbed El Cap nearly 100 times, founded two successful online companies, and pioneered wingsuit jumping in the US. Psyche is not in short supply with Chris in the studio. Why Chris walked away from wingsuit flying. Chris' Website.

Duration: 4611 seconds
Size: 44.24 Mb

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On Episode 89 of the Enormocast, I sit down in an undisclosed location in Salt Lake City with Colorado climber and Everest sumiteer, Emily Harrington. Emily came storming out of the gym as a "kid" and took down many of Rifle's hardest as a teenager. But unlike many of her compatriots, she aspires to become a legit high altitude mountaineer, and already has a free El Cap ascent under her belt after only three years of trad climbing. Emily is quietly building the skill set to become one of the best all-arounders in the game. From 5.14 to 8000 meters, this girl wants to do it all. Emily's website and Makalu Portal Emily's Athlete Page on Facebook      

Duration: 4455 seconds
Size: 51.25 Mb

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Episode 8 finds me in climber and flyer Steph Davis' double-wide contending with her cat, Mao, her dog, Cajun, and her husband, Mario all futzing around in the background. Man, I can't wait for PBR to build me a studio. Anyway, Steph and I mostly just reminisce about our shared past, but we do talk about her origins, inspirations, and transition to falling as much as climbing. And I manage not to swear for the first time, so gather the kids around. By the way, this podcast is in no way an admission of any guilt on the part of Ms. Davis. Need more Steph? Her website: highinfatuation.com Her Book: High Infatuation: A Climber's Guide To Love and Gravity  

Size: 71.89 Mb

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On Episode 90 of the Enormocast, I sit down across the table from Peter Metcalf, CEO and founder of Black Diamond. Peter discovered his love of the mountains on the East Coast but quickly found himself in the Alaska range testing his teenage mettle against the Last Frontier's gnarliest peaks. After sating his youthful obsession with a proud ascent of the Southeast Spur of Mt Hunter, Peter found himself under the tutelage of Yvon Chouinard and at the helm of Chouinard Equipment and then desperately cobbling together Black Diamond from its rubble. Now Peter continues to climb, ski, guide BD, and fight the good fight against the exploitation of our beloved wild lands and climbing areas. Another look at Peter's Mt Hunter Ascent More about Peter

Duration: 5313 seconds
Size: 50.94 Mb

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On Episode 91, I sit down in SLC with climber, musician, and guidebook author, Misty Murphy. Misty has become the maven of Southwest Utah climbing, carrying on in the Utah Hills and beyond with her husband, the route developer Bill Ohran. 5 years in the making, Misty has finally completed the definitive guidebook to the sport climbing in the area: The Limestone Bible. Always quick with a joke or a jab, the laid back Murphy tried to make her guide as entertaining as it is informative. So kick back with a cocktail for this one and listen to Misty invite you to her hometown and sing a few songs for you , too. Misty's Music Website Misty's Soundcloud Page Float Video with Odub Home- Featuring Misty and her husband Bill    

Duration: 4314 seconds
Size: 41.42 Mb

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On Episode 92 of the Enormocast, I reunite with a Enormo-favorite James Lucas. He left his Saturn behind, went to Spain, and climbed the Freerider in a day, all since we last heard from him in Episode 47. James continues to lead the dirtbag life, bouncing from Yosemite, to Salt Lake, and around the world. Some call him the last American Dirtbag, some call him the last Stonemaster, some just call him Peaches, but nobody doesn't smile when JL shows up. The Last American Dirtbag James hitting the Open Mic The Walking Monkey Blog  

Duration: 4208 seconds
Size: 40.26 Mb

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On Episode 93 of the Enormocast, I hang with a guy who has spent his life protecting others and protecting climbing, Armando Menocal. An avowed weekend warrior, Armando used climbing to blow off steam from his day job as a human rights lawyer stemming all the way back to the anti-war movement in 1969. Armando went on to work for the AAC, found the Access Fund, become an Exum Guide, and develop climbing in Cuba. Armando is now developing a Pan American access organization, Access PanAm. Trying to have a good time, all the time, Armando still never seems to stop giving back to the climbing community he cherishes. Cuban Climbing Info. A different Armando Menocal.

Duration: 4882 seconds
Size: 46.83 Mb

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                On Episode 94 of the Enormocast, I enjoy an evening with alpinist, Colin Haley. Colin hails from Washington, grew up scrambling and snow climbing in the Cascades before turning his talents to Alaska, the Himalaya, and Patagonia. Colin methodically built the skills to become one of the heavy-hitters down in El Chalten and was finally called up to the big leagues by Rolo Garibotti to complete the Cerro Torre Traverse. But that was only the beginning. Don't call it an obsession, but this guy now knows Patagonia as well as anyone. Colin's Website Colin's Old Blog

Duration: 3709 seconds
Size: 35.64 Mb

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On Episode 95 of the Enormocast, I sit down in a slowly deteriorating studio with German climbing legend, Stefan Glowacz. Stefan informed my early climbing with his seminal book Rocks Around the World. He started as a hotshot comp climber, then a sport climber, and has gone on to establish monster alpine routes and big rock climbs around the globe. Always seeking new adventures by fair means, Stefan is nowhere near done finding new goals and pushing the envelope. A young Stefan freesolos Katchoong in Arapiles. A crazy-ass rig in a cave.

Duration: 3614 seconds
Size: 41.62 Mb

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On Episode 96 of the Enormocast, I luck out and sit down with Swedish/Moroccan/Finnish climber, Said Belhaj. After obsessively adventuring on nearby rocks and breaking into his grade school like a ninja to train, Said found sport climbing and his fate was set. He is a seeker and finds the meditative state in climbing to be as necessary as air and food. As an accomplished musician, Said travels the world sending hard routes and blowing minds with transcendental music. All in, all the time, Said Belhaj is a climber for the ages.   Said's Website. Said Belhaj profile by Andrew Bisharat

Duration: 4487 seconds
Size: 51.62 Mb

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On Episode 97 of the Enormocast, I sit down in a limping Mobile Studio with alpinist, and all-around climber, Jay Smith. Jay and I get through his discomfort to talk about his early climbing, his vast motivation for first ascents, rigging, and best partners. Jay may or may not have sanctioned himself Clint-Eastwood-style by revealing classified intel about Navy Seal training. Jay is more at home freezing on a Himalayan peak than talking about himself, but his personality shines through in this hour in the Mobile Studio. Since there's basically nothing on the internet about Jay Smith, the climber, here's a video of Jay Smith, the Swedish Country singer.

Duration: 3913 seconds
Size: 45.05 Mb

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On Episode 98 of the Enormocast, I sit down with Midwest native and ice farmer, Eric Barnard. Eric found climbing after Jerry's death and getting sick and tired of Hacky Sack, and he went on to develop the early bouldering scene at Devil's Lake, Wisconsin. After a stint in Pocatello, Idaho, he and his family moved back to the flatish-lands to start working on a climbing empire on the Mississippi. While working as the Director of Winona State's Outdoor Education and Recreation Center, he has been a force behind creating a world class gym and now a city supported ice park. A motivated family man and climber, Eric is trying to have it all in what will soon become the Boulder of the upper midwest, Winona, Minnesota. Take a class from Eric.

Duration: 4647 seconds
Size: 53.45 Mb

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On Episode 99 of the Enormocast, I sit down in yet another seedy hotel with speed climber and former YOSAR member, Libby Sauter. Libby takes her adventure way beyond climbing as a nurse, often flying to far off locals with the Novick Cardiac Alliance. She cut her climbing teeth on the legendary Yosemite Search and Rescue team, and before long was speeding up The Nose in less time than it takes you to binge watch 5 episodes of Breaking Bad. Along with Mayan Smith-Gobat, Libby owns the women's speed record on The Nose at 4:43! Always smiling, never whining (almost), Libby is carrying the torch for adventure climbing and begging us to follow. Mayan and Libby sending the Nose. Libby is also a sic slack-liner (but we won't hold that against her!). Inspired by Libby? Consider giving a little somethin' somethin' to the Novick Cardiac Alliance to help keep her in scrubs.

Duration: 4025 seconds
Size: 46.34 Mb

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In Episode 9, we start with a lengthy, then a short, then again lengthy discussion of author and climbing-crusader Sam Lightner's special daisy chain. If you are still awake, then keep listening for stories of the infamous FOICers, Thailand, and why the Access Fund has your back. Not unlike his daisy chain, Sam can be both rigid and flaccid as the situation demands when standing up for your rights with megalomaniacal land managers. Build your own Sam Lightner Ultra-Daisy! Sam's Oeuvre (that's his collected works, you cretin)      

Read more http://enormocast.com/episode-9-sam-lightner-fights-for-your-right-to-party-climb/

                On Epsiode 66, I sit down in a dumpy hotel in SLC with Angela Van Wiemeersch. Angela's story began on the sharp blades of competition skating and came full circle when she strapped on crampons for the first time. In the meantime, we hear about a whirlwind life crisscrossing the US and Canada as a traveling soul, hunkering down in the Yukon winter, and finally getting a lucky date in the Ouray Ice Park. Angela's entry into the hardcore world of ice climbing belies its fierce reputation. And though she has a lot to learn, swinging picks came as natural as hucking double axels. Angela on Mt Hayes in Alaska  

Duration: 3963 seconds
Size: 38.07 Mb

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The current state of the ice and snow in the White Mountains of New Hampshire, plus selected other areas in New England. Updated daily during the season with pictures of many individual routes.

Read more http://neclimbs.com/index.php?PageName=iceConditionsReport

Progressing as an ultra-runner presents itself with lots of challenges when it comes to training.  A lot of focus goes into long run days but does this ultimately help your long term improvement?  What about speed? How do you get faster when you are putting in so many miles and tons of vertical?

Read more http://www.sportiva.com/live/live-archive/running-lounge/lets-talk-training

Live weather for the Mount Washington Valley and White Mountains of New Hampshire. Supplied by our own weather station located between Cathedral Ledge and Echo Lake State Park.

Read more http://neclimbs.com/index.php?PageName=weather

The 10 most recent postings on the NEClimbs climber's forum. A great place for New England climber's to exchange ideas and rant about pretty much anything that comes to their minds.

Read more http://www.neclimbs.com/smf_bbs/index.php?action=recent

The familiar dreaded jingle of an iPhone alarm quacks off. It’s 4am. Sharp winds howl over the roof of my van near the race start to the Grand Canyon 50 miler on the North Rim of the Kaibab Plateau. Sol turns over and curls back into a ball under the sheets. She doesn’t have to run 50 miles this morning, she can sleep in. I grab my race kit that I had laid out the night before, and begin getting dressed.

Read more http://www.sportiva.com/live/live-archive/running-lounge/running-the-rim-the-grand-canyon-50-miler

On January 31, 2016, Colin Haley and Alex Honnold completed the first repeat of the Torre Traverse in Patagonia in a time of record 20 hours and 40 minutes. This north-to-south traverse enchains Cerro Standhardt, Punta Herron, Torre Egger and Cerro Torre.

Read more http://www.sportiva.com/live/live-archive/climbing-archive/the-torre-traverse

When I asked her why a Women’s Climbing Festival, her response was simple, “So women have the opportunity to climb with other women.” That’s exactly what we were all there for and the other aspects of the festival: the dinner, the women’s panel, the clinics, were all in effort to create that community of female climbers where climbing and hanging with other women was given the priority.

 

Read more http://www.sportiva.com/live/live-archive/climbing-archive/the-womens-climbing-festival

The latest news and information about what's going on in the Mount Washington Valley climbing commuity. Written and updated weekly by local climber and guide Al Hospers.

Read more http://neclimbs.com/index.php?PageName=report

Reviews of the latest in climbing paraphenalia, clothing and books.

Read more http://neclimbs.com/index.php?PageName=review

On Episode 22, Andrew Bisharat and I discuss why hard climbing is so important to everyone. We hit on grades, appropriate hero worship, why Americans are the lifestyle climbers of the world, and how Ecstasy, sex, and climbing go together . Also, unbeknownst to him, we decide that Chris Sharma is the world's saddest climber. Come along for this philosophical climb up that overhanging tufa route that you've been dreaming about.  

Read more http://enormocast.com/episode-22-climb-hard-and-walk-tall-with-andrew-bisharat/

On Episode 23 of the Enormocast, hotshot crack addict Mason Earle survives a near fatal fixie accident and arrives at the mobile studio ready to open his soul. We learn about his beginnings on the East Coast, his fateful first days in Indian Creek, a shameful ascent of El Cap and more. We are both convinced that OW climbing is god's own, but when we both claim to suck at it, one of us is lying. Nico Favresse might or might not make a cameo. Finally, James Lucas can skip to 33 minutes for this show's reference to me climbing the FreeRider. Mason's Blog      Mason's 5Ten Blog     Mason's Vimeo Page  

Size: 45.99 Mb

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On Episode 24, we take a 1 hour cruise to a deserted island in the Green River to meet up with Brittany Anne Griffith- affectionately known to her friends as the BAG. Two parts Mary Anne, one part Ginger, a dash of the professor, and a scosh of Mrs Howell for good measure, Brittany brings a formidable package to the outing. Climber, caterer, athlete, sorority girl, world traveler, entrepreneur, dirtbag, ambassador, and spy are all titles she's swapped out with ease over the years. Listen while she spins a tail that starts in the cornfields of Iowa and ends on the desert landscapes of Algeria. Brittany's Cleanest Line Blog    

Size: 40.19 Mb

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On Episode 25, our one year anniversary episode, we finish the Green River chronicles by floating and rapping about international climbing travel. Jonathan Thesenga and Brittany Griffith are both consummate world travelers and let us in on the beta for safe and satisfying touring abroad. From JT's know before you go stance, to Brittany's beta for barfing in a bowl, this episode will prepare you for anything the 3rd world, or even Canada, can throw at you. Kick back and soak it in as the sounds of the water tinkling on the oars becomes a balm for our troubled times. Brittany's Cleanest Line blog, JT's Cleanest Line blog, JT's must-see Instagram content      

Duration: 3033 seconds
Size: 35.25 Mb

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On Episode 26, we sit down in Denver, Colorado with young alpinist Keven Landolt. Kevin is facing down leukemia and still dreaming of the mountains. He fills us in on what goes through his mind as he fights to keep his dignity as his body fails him. From diagnosis through a bone marrow transplant and a failed remission, Kevin has used his experiences climbing as motivation and a bulwark against the void . This episode may begin to answer one of the ultimate alpine questions: does climbing really matter? Sign up to save lives at Be The Match Kevin's Blog Gregory Crouch's Enduring Patagonia  

Read more http://enormocast.com/episode-26-kevin-landolt-pushing-back-against-the-universe/

On Episode 27, I chase down New Zealander Mayan Smith-Gobat in of all places, Grand Junction, Colorado. Mayan tells how she is holed up in the oddly frigid wasteland that is Colorado's Western Slope to retool her mind and body into a killer android-like climbing machine. Who knew that GJ was such a hotbed of training fanatics? Mayan tells us about her beginnings in New Zealand, her move onto the world scene, and her obsessive no-excuses methods for getting it done. I manage to avoid even making a single sheep joke about NZ or referring to her namesake alien-seeded middle Americans whose lame apocalypse was such a letdown last month. I'm getting to be pretty pro-sesh if I do say so myself. Mayan on the Salathé Mayan at 5.10 Mayan's Website Mayan on Punks      

Size: 37.63 Mb

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On Episode 28, I bag with one clean shot, a perfectly healthy free-range Honnold. Alex sits down in a clean, well-lit place to expound on his life in the glare of the klieg lights . He tells us what it was like to lock eyes with the beautiful and mysterious Lara Logan, what it was like to lock eyes with the happy-go-lucky Steve Denny on a lonely night on El Cap, and what its like to lock eyes with you, as he blows past on that hanging belay in Yosemite. From shy boy to pro-sesh hero, Alex lets us sit in on his world for an hour. Turns out, its pretty fun and chill in the Republic of Honnoldlandia. Alex on 60 Minutes (if you're lucky, with a Viagra commercial, or two) Alex on No Way Jose, North Wash, UT vs. Our friend JP Ouellet on No Way Jose Want more Alex Honnold, you freak? Just google him and say goodbye to the afternoon!      

Duration: 3504 seconds
Size: 40.37 Mb

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On Episode 29, I sit across a plastic Club Colombia table in Refugio La Roca from undercover bone-crusher Cody Roth. Despite appearances in Chuck Fryberger's films and Andy Burr following Cody around like Paparazzi hunting Lohan, and despite him crushing 5.14 and V-hard, I postulate that Cody, AKA C.H.U.T, AKA The Critter, is an unknown in the USA. His disappearance into the Alps for a decade didn't help. Cody and I dive deep into the differences in climbing culture between the US and Europe. We tread water in stereotypes and my thick-headed preconceived notions until we climb out the other side with a great big hug for our Euro brothers and sisters who climb rocks while sporting their jaunty scarves. Cameos abound from Alexandra (our hostess at the refugio), Andy Burr, and Ramillo (AKA Karl) the dog. Viva Colombia! Cody Climbs in the Sandias, New Mexico, Cody Sprays on and on about Europe, Bli, Bla, Blub Who the Hell is Killian Fischhuber?    

Duration: 4087 seconds
Size: 39.37 Mb

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Mechanically, each year is the same schedule of events. In Ouray, hundreds of ice climbers -both professionals and first-timers- gather to take part in ice climbing clinics, be inspired by athlete slideshows, and party late into the night before doing it all over again the next day.

Read more http://www.sportiva.com/live/live-archive/climbing-archive/2016-ouray-ice-festival

After a big storm like this, it's a challenge to merely make it to the top of the mountain and the primary objective becomes to just get out, experience the fresh beauty, and hopefully get a few first tracks, breaking trail before the rest of Boulder's extremely active population motivates.

Read more http://www.sportiva.com/live/live-archive/running-lounge/anton-krupicka-day-in-the-life

Climbing the world's highest artificial rock climbing wall: the Diga di Luzzone dam in Switzerland.

Read more http://www.sportiva.com/live/live-archive/climbing-archive/diga-di-luzzone

While posted up in the Rodeway Inn in Salt Lake City, the Enormocast hosted author and online mogul Brendan Leonard. After a series of shocks to his system, Brendan finally said "the hell with it" and packed up his Astro Van and hit the road. Now he brings us his witty and soulful writing from a Starbucks near you while living the dream on the road. One look at semi-rad.com and you, too, will be hooked on the long-haired man-hugging goodness that is Brendan Leonard.  

Size: 58.81 Mb

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Episode 18 is here to make you feel lazy and weak. You're welcome. Listen in as rock climbing legend Randy Leavitt admits to being  good at everything he tries. He works harder than you do, he wastes less time than you do, he's smarter, stronger, and, frankly, better looking. This guy makes the Energizer Bunny want to trade in his bass drum for a triangle just so he can relax for a second. Oh, and he happens to be so damn nice about it, it was all I could do not to reach over and poke him in the eye. Did I mention he Kite-Surfs, too?    

Read more http://enormocast.com/episode-18-randy-leavitt-slackers-need-not-apply/

On Episode 19 of the Enormocast, co-host Chris Parker and I sit down for a rambling chat with one of the last Mountain Mystics, Jeff Jackson. Consummate climber, first ascensionist, yogi, father, husband, musician, Jeff has more than one engaging story to tell. Listen in as Chris and I sit jaw-dropped as Jefe describes his encounters with shape-shifting horse people, alien visitors, crazy Canadians, and worst of all, young republican lawyers. Bonus audio includes two original tunes by Chris Parker with JJ on harmonica and me on bass. Its quite a journey, so dig in for this one.   Shape-shifting horse people: believe it! More JJ at Splitterchoss Some other dude named Jeff Jackson climbing  

Duration: 4801 seconds
Size: 46.05 Mb

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Cold weather and no bouldering forces Lisa Hathaway and Chris into the shelter of the Oasis trailer on the inaugural episode of the Enormocast. They try to decide who would last longer in a Zombie Apocalypse (ZA), and Chris dishes on why Italians are sorta like deer.  

Duration: 2165 seconds
Size: 20.92 Mb

Read more http://enormocast.com/welcome-to-the-enormocast/

On Episode 20, return co-hosts BJ Sbarra and Steve Denny return to tackle listener mail. Among other fascinating tangents, we address passing slower parties, climbing addiction, daisy chains (again), why the post office blows, how to approach gumbies, and much much more. Also, my favorite email of all time (so far). Thrilling and spontaneous, Episode 20 is a blatant attempt to get more listener mail.  

Read more http://enormocast.com/episode-20-listener-mail-volume-1/

On Episode 21, James Lucas and I take a break from smoozing the Trade Show ladies to sit down for a chat. James dishes on his pie baking bombs and bad breaks, his career as perhaps the world's only living redpoint soloist, his upcoming book about the Stone Monkey era in Yosemite, and how try as he might, he just can't get the French out of the FreeRider. Bad to the bone, but also smooth as fine Cognac, James Lucas is an original. My Dancing Shoes: James shows us how its done (alone in a hoodie apparently). James' Blog: Life of a Walking Monkey      

Duration: 2801 seconds
Size: 32.05 Mb

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On Episode 108 of the Enormocast, I sit down in the Mobile Studio in Rifle Mountain Park with Joe Kinder. Joe grew up in New England where he joined a crew of hotshot sport climbers that included Tim Kemple, Luke GOMEZ Parady, and Dave Graham. Self-described as the weakest of that band, Joe has nevertheless gone on to create a career out of climbing and ticked an extensive list of hard routes across the world. He started as a punk kid trying to be cool, and has become a consummate pro and route developer. Yet, as we sit down, the nervous kid worried about being cool comes out in this down to earth and revealing interview.

Duration: 4525 seconds
Size: 52.05 Mb

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On Episode 109 of the Enormocast, I sit down in a sweltering Mobile Studio at City Park in Lander, Wyomin' during the IFC with climber, Chelsea Rude. Chelsea grew up in the South dreaming of the West and finally made the move to Colorado to pursue her climbing dreams. That dream at first revolved around comp climbing, then sport climbing, and now Chelsea- a seasoned 30 year old- wants to suffer in the big mountains. She's dabbled in ice climbing, thrown herself at a gnarly Alaskan peak, and is cutting her teeth on the cracks. Will her desire to suffer survive repeated punishment? Only time will tell, but on the way, she'll still crush your project at will. Chelsea in Ceuse Chelsea in The Red

Duration: 3916 seconds
Size: 45.09 Mb

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On the first double-digit episode of the Enormocast, co-host Kelly Cordes and I discuss the the films we saw at the 5Point Film Fest and outdoor film making in general. We end up deciding that climbers are the nerds of extreme sports. Turns out that big wave surfers and big falls kayakers are way, way cooler than climbers and ultra-runners are far tougher. Kelly also repeats the word "porn" enough times to make me uncomfortable. Links to some of the films we rant about: Aquadettes, Racing the End, Code Red, Cold, Obe and Ashima, Dark Side of the Lens, Kadoma  

Read more http://enormocast.com/episode-10-on-our-movie-date-kelly-cordes-explains-the-cowards-guide-to-alpinism/

Episode 11 is EPIC! Craig Demartino takes us blow by blow through his climbing accident which culminates (spoiler alert!) in losing his leg. He fights to survive, then he fights to regain his life, then fights to climb better than he ever did. The real deal doesn't even come close to describing this guy. Guts, determination, and unconditional love all bring him through. Be inspired. In fact, if this doesn't inspire you, you may be a soulless android. Stab yourself in the hand, does it hurt? Okay, you're human after all. More Craig: http://www.demartinophoto.blogspot.com/ Followup on Craig's successful ascent of El Cap  

Duration: 5196 seconds
Size: 39.91 Mb

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On Episode 12, I am joined by two lovely ladies, Gracyn and Tracy, in the home studio to hash out why its so hard for guys and girls to just be climbing buds. Gracyn thinks every guy wants her, I cop to being in love with every climbing partner I've ever had- male or female, and Tracy just looks on in horror. Its ladies night at the Enormocast, and the feeling is oh so right. More Knowledge from Tracy!  

Duration: 3083 seconds
Size: 29.67 Mb

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On Episode 13, I meet up in the mobile studio with infamous climber Cedar Wright. Cedar fills us in on his hippy upbringing, his crash course in free soloing, and his days in the dirt in Yosemite Valley. Even though Cedar is known for his sarcastic wit, the Enormocast brings out his serious side as we talk about his inspirations, and he pays homage to all of those that helped him on his path to pro-boy superstardom. The whole thing was followed by a protracted bro-hug that may have lingered a little too long for my taste. The World's Greatest Climbing Video Cedar's Website Cedar's Music    

Size: 65.69 Mb

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The Enormocast lures two new guests into the Rocky Mountain Bunker to banter about partners and why they bring more to the table than just a good belay. Guests Michael Logan and Jen Vennon Bisharat dish on what are the key qualities a partner has to have to carry the honor of holding their ropes. Michael might not remember your name, but he will remember that drug deal gone bad. Jen might pull your rope, but she ain't gonna slap together your PB and J. And when I look at you, all I see is an elaborate belay device. Listen in and find out if you might qualify to win the chance to give a multi-year Rifle belay session with either contestant. Proof that I, Chris Kalous, am the reason Jen Vennon Bisharat climbs 5.14.    

Size: 76.35 Mb

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One Episode 15, I go in search of my lost youth by sitting down to rap with two young killers who quietly get it done. Everyman road warrior Steve Denny fills us in on how he saved Alex Honnold's triple wall solo in Yosemite. Henry Nadell wants to do it all NOW, not when he grows up. Don't hate them because they have all the time in the world. Captain Kirk takes the big one Captain Kirk on Mountain Climbing  

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On Episode 16 of the Enormocast, I park the mobile studio in the park in Lander, WY for a conversation with climber and artist Kate Rutherford. Often confused for Laura Ingalls, Kate fills us in on her upbringing in the Alaskan bush. She has lead a charmed life that recently found her on the top of Fitzroy in Patagonia. Art, climbing, and adventure all are part of the elegant package that is Kate Rutherford. (Yeah, I have a crush! What of it!?)   Kate's Jewelry (Buy some!): suspendedstonedesign.com WTF with Marc Maron  

Read more http://enormocast.com/episode-16-kater-rutherford-light-slow-and-lucky/

- Mark Ritchie Appointed President of Black Diamond Equipment - - Board of Directors Amends Stock Repurchase Program to $30 Million - SALT LAKE CITY, Nov. 09, 2015 (GLOBE NEWSWIRE) -- Black Diamond, Inc. (NASDAQ:BDE) (the “Company”), a global leader of innovative active outdoor performance equipment and apparel, under the brand name Black Diamond, reported financial results for the third quarter ended September 30, 2015. Reported results are from continuing operations, excluding the results of POC Sweden AB and POC USA, LLC (collectively, “POC”) for all periods presented. The assets and liabilities of POC are reported as held for sale as of September 30, 2015 and December 31, 2014, and...

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                    On Episode 107 of the Enormocast, I sit down in an office in Carbondale with expedition climber, explorer, and super-dad, Mike Libecki. Mike was once just a Yosemite climbing- bum like so many before him, but then he found expedition climbing and his fate was sealed. 60+ expeditions later and first ascents in far-flung locals such as Baffin Island, Greenland, Madagascar, and Afghanistan, Mike is still going strong and pulling his daughter along with him in his life of exploration. 100 expeditions are his goal, and after that? More trips, we suppose. "Never ration passion!" is Mike's saying du jour, and he lives that every damn day. Mike's Website. More about Mike. About Mike's Film Poumaka.

Duration: 4391 seconds
Size: 50.52 Mb

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On episode 104, I sit down in the Mobile Studio with German climber, Ines Papert. Ines started like many by hiking in her local mountains in Bavaria. But one day she decided walking around cliff faces sucked, and her fate was sealed. She has since become one of the top mixed ice climbers, a strong alpinist, and a top notch rock climber. Her proudest achievement? Raising up a 15 year old kid who loves the the outdoors, accordion, and big trucks. Climbing and exploration go hand in hand with being a mom for Ines. Ines' Website Ines on Riders on the Storm Write up of the Riders Trip A Trippy Version of Riders on the Storm

Duration: 4377 seconds
Size: 50.36 Mb

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On Episode 105, I sit down for a trip down memory lane with Canadian hero Will Stanhope. After cutting his teeth in Squamish, Will, and his buddy Jason Kruk, took Canadian climbing up a notch or two in the last decade. In an era of hotshot boulderers and sport climbers, Will took the opposite track towards big trad climbing and heady leads. Humble almost to a fault, Will continues to pull off hard leads in a style that hearkens back to the Golden Age more than the Internet Age. What's more, he's willing to buy you a Kokonee if you send his routes in better style. (Hey, Kokanee! Sponsor this guy already!). Will's Website Will sounding sooper-dooper Canadian, eh, while trying the Cobra Crack, eh.

Duration: 5172 seconds
Size: 59.46 Mb

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On Episode 106 of the Enormocast, join Chris and guests Cedar Wright, Leici Hendrix, and Jen Altschul for a live listener mail from Bonfire Coffee in downtown Carbondale, CO. We discuss various questions concerning love on the rocks, lowering vs rappelling off anchors, and more. Wonky and freewheeling, you never know what you're going to get from the live ones. Cedar Wright Leici Hendrix Jen Altschul at Dirtbag Diaries

Duration: 3112 seconds
Size: 35.89 Mb

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On Episode 108 of the Enormocast, I sit down in the Mobile Studio in Rifle Mountain Park with Joe Kinder. Joe grew up in New England where he joined a crew of hotshot sport climbers that included Tim Kemple, Luke GOMEZ Parady, and Dave Graham. Self-described as the weakest of that band, Joe has nevertheless gone on to create a career out of climbing and ticked an extensive list of hard routes across the world. He started as a punk kid trying to be cool, and has become a consummate pro and route developer. Yet, as we sit down, the nervous kid worried about being cool comes out in this down to earth and revealing interview.

Duration: 4525 seconds
Size: 52.05 Mb

Read more http://enormocast.com/episode-108-joe-kinder-working-for-it/

On Episode 109 of the Enormocast, I sit down in a sweltering Mobile Studio at City Park in Lander, Wyomin' during the IFC with climber, Chelsea Rude. Chelsea grew up in the South dreaming of the West and finally made the move to Colorado to pursue her climbing dreams. That dream at first revolved around comp climbing, then sport climbing, and now Chelsea- a seasoned 30 year old- wants to suffer in the big mountains. She's dabbled in ice climbing, thrown herself at a gnarly Alaskan peak, and is cutting her teeth on the cracks. Will her desire to suffer survive repeated punishment? Only time will tell, but on the way, she'll still crush your project at will. Chelsea in Ceuse Chelsea in The Red

Duration: 3916 seconds
Size: 45.09 Mb

Read more http://enormocast.com/episode-109-chelsea-rude-can-she-suffer-yes-she-can/

SALT LAKE CITY, July 27, 2016 (GLOBE NEWSWIRE) -- Black Diamond Equipment, a global innovator in climbing, skiing, mountain sports equipment and apparel, and a subsidiary of Black Diamond, Inc. (NASDAQ:BDE) (the “Company”), has appointed Rick Vance as director of quality, effective August 1, 2016. Vance will oversee all aspects of Black Diamond Equipment’s quality policy, controls and processes. This includes controls and practices within Black Diamond Equipment’s Salt Lake manufacturing operations and the integration of the quality department into product design and development. Vance will serve on Black Diamond Equipment’s management team and participate in executive-level management o...

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SALT LAKE CITY and REINACH, Switzerland, Jan. 14, 2016 (GLOBE NEWSWIRE) -- Black Diamond Equipment®, a global innovator in climbing, skiing, mountain sports equipment and apparel, and a brand of Black Diamond, Inc. (NASDAQ:BDE) (the “Company”), has enacted several strategic initiatives at its European headquarters. As part of a comprehensive global restructuring initiative, the Company has appointed Tim Bantle to managing director of Black Diamond Equipment’s European operations. He will be responsible for all aspects of the European business, reporting to COO of the Company and Black Diamond Equipment’s President Mark Ritchie. Bantle was previously responsible for product, sales and mar...

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SALT LAKE CITY, May 02, 2016 (GLOBE NEWSWIRE) -- Black Diamond, Inc. (NASDAQ:BDE) (the “Company”), a global leader of innovative active outdoor performance equipment and apparel, under the brand name Black Diamond®, reported financial results for the first quarter ended March 31, 2016. Reported results are from continuing operations, excluding the results of POC Sweden AB and POC USA, LLC for all periods presented. First Quarter 2016 Financial Summary vs. Same Year-Ago Quarter Sales of $38.2 million, down 9% (down 4% in constant currency). Gross margin of 28.7%, down 670 basis points (down 290 basis points in constant currency). Selling, general and administrative expenses dow...

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SALT LAKE CITY, March 14, 2016 (GLOBE NEWSWIRE) -- Black Diamond, Inc. (NASDAQ:BDE) (the “Company”), a global leader of innovative active outdoor performance equipment and apparel, under the brand name Black Diamond®, reported financial results for the fourth quarter and full year ended December 31, 2015. Reported results are from continuing operations, excluding the results of POC Sweden AB and POC USA, LLC for all periods presented. Fourth Quarter 2015 Financial Summary vs. Same Year-Ago Quarter Sales of $44.1 million, down 4% (unchanged in constant currency) Gross margin of 33.5%, down 160 basis points (up 90 basis points in constant currency) Selling, general and administr...

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SALT LAKE CITY, Aug. 01, 2016 (GLOBE NEWSWIRE) -- Black Diamond, Inc. (NASDAQ:BDE) (the “Company”), a global leader of innovative active outdoor performance equipment and apparel, under the brand name Black Diamond®, reported financial results for the second quarter ended June 30, 2016. Reported results are from continuing operations, excluding the results of POC Sweden AB and POC USA, LLC for all periods presented. Second Quarter 2016 Financial Summary vs. Same Year-Ago Quarter Sales of $29.1 million, down 3% ($30.2 million in constant currency, up slightly). Gross margin of 28.6%, down 640 basis points (down 390 basis points in constant currency). Selling, general and admini...

Read more http://www.blackdiamond-inc.com/phoenix.zhtml?c=118683&p=RssLanding&cat=news&id=2191558

SALT LAKE CITY, April 25, 2016 (GLOBE NEWSWIRE) -- Black Diamond, Inc. (NASDAQ:BDE) (the “Company”), a global leader of innovative active outdoor performance equipment and apparel, under the brand name Black Diamond, will hold a conference call on Monday, May 2, 2016 at 5:00 p.m. Eastern time to discuss its financial results for the first quarter ended March 31, 2016. The financial results will be reported in a press release after the close of regular stock market trading hours on the same day as the conference call. Date: Monday, May 2, 2016 Time: 5:00 p.m. Eastern time (3:00 p.m. Mountain time) Toll-free dial-in number: 1-800-946-0782 International dial-in number: 1-719-325-2436 Conf...

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SALT LAKE CITY, March 01, 2016 (GLOBE NEWSWIRE) -- Black Diamond, Inc. (NASDAQ:BDE) (the “Company”), a global leader of innovative active outdoor performance equipment and apparel, under the brand name Black Diamond, will hold a conference call on Monday, March 14, 2016 at 5:00 p.m. Eastern time to discuss its financial results for the fourth quarter and full year ended December 31, 2015. The financial results will be reported in a press release after the close of regular stock market trading hours on the same day as the conference call. Date: Monday, March 14, 2016 Time: 5:00 p.m. Eastern time (3:00 p.m. Mountain time) Toll-free dial-in number: 1-888-899-5068 International dial-in num...

Read more http://www.blackdiamond-inc.com/phoenix.zhtml?c=118683&p=RssLanding&cat=news&id=2144721

SALT LAKE CITY, July 19, 2016 (GLOBE NEWSWIRE) -- Black Diamond, Inc. (NASDAQ:BDE) (the “Company”), a global leader of innovative active outdoor performance equipment and apparel, under the brand name Black Diamond, will hold a conference call on Monday, August 1, 2016 at 5:00 p.m. Eastern time to discuss its financial results for the second quarter ended June 30, 2016. The financial results will be reported in a press release after the close of regular stock market trading hours on the same day as the conference call. Date: Monday, August 1, 2016 Time: 5:00 p.m. Eastern time (3:00 p.m. Mountain time) Toll-free dial-in number: 1-888-282-4591 International dial-in number: 1-719-457-2705 ...

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SALT LAKE CITY, Oct. 09, 2015 (GLOBE NEWSWIRE) -- Black Diamond, Inc. (NASDAQ:BDE) (the “Company” or “Black Diamond”), a leading global supplier of innovative active outdoor performance equipment and apparel, will host its Annual Meeting of Stockholders on December 11, 2015 at 8:00 a.m. Eastern time at the Dolby Screening Room, 1350 Avenue of the Americas, New York, NY 10019. Stockholders of record at the close of business on November 2, 2015 are entitled to notice of and to vote at the Annual Meeting. If you plan on attending, please RSVP to Black Diamond’s investor relations firm: Liolios Cody Slach Tel 949-574-3860 Ten adres pocztowy jest chroniony przed spamowaniem. Aby go zobaczyć, konieczne jest włączenie w przeglądarce obsługi JavaScript. About Black Diamond, Inc. Black Diamond, Inc. i...

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Gloves are one of the the most important, yet least talked about pieces of gear for ice climbing.  You need a pair of gloves that will keep your hands warm and still offer good dexterity.  Normally I climb with a read more…

Read more http://intothemountains.com/2013/01/31/outdoor-research-warrant-gloves/

I’ve been using the Rebel GTX carbon for about 6 weeks now, both guiding and doing some personal climbing.  I have probably logged about 30 days in the boots.  Bottom line is they are the best summer Alpine boots I read more…

Read more http://intothemountains.com/2013/07/20/scarpa-rebel-gtx-carbon/

Today, the IOC Session in Rio officially approved the addition of Sport Climbing to the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games. Our sport has climbed higher than ever!

The journey to the Olympics was a long and difficult climb. In September of 2014, the International Olympic Committee (IOC) unanimously approved the progressive Olympic Agenda 2020 in its entirety which proposed additional events for the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games. Nearly two years later and after many intermediate steps, the 129th IOC Session in Rio de Janeiro today approved five additional events for Tokyo 2020: baseball/softball, karate, skateboarding, sport climbing and surfing. After much anticipation and hard work, the Olympics dream has finally come true for Sport Climbing.

"We are so happy that Sport Climbing will be participating in the Games of Tokyo," says IFSC President Marco Scolaris. "The Olympics have been our dream for quite some time, and now the hard work has finally paid off. We would like to thank the IOC for extending a truly unique opportunity to our sport."

Although the journey to official approval has concluded, the work is far from finished. The IFSC will immediately begin working on the technical aspects of the Olympic Sport Climbing competitions, and the selection process will be drafted and presented on March 11, 2017, at the IFSC Plenary Assembly in Quebec City.

The IOC Session in Rio also announced today the proposed venues for the Tokyo 2020 Additional Events. Althought the IOC Executive Board will not make a final decision until December, the proposed venue for Sport Climbing competitions is in the "Aomi," Koto Ward, within the "Odaiba Area" of the Tokyo Metropolis.

In the meantime, the IFSC will work closely with the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games Organizing Committee and the IOC to finalize venue and infrastructure details, in order to offer the best of Sport Climbing in Tokyo.

"We have reached the final hold of our unbelievable climb, but another climb awaits us. Our team is committed to preparing Sport Climbing for the Olympic Games, and over the next four years we will continue to work with the IOC to do so," concludes Scolaris.

Here is the link to the official News on the IOC website, as well as the official IFSC press release.

Read more http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/latest-news/item/787-sport-climbing-olympics-bound

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A video posted by Kat Carney (@katcarney) on Aug 3, 2016 at 1:16pm PDT

 

Our friend Jason @fourchinnigan sat down with @craigasaurus I earlier this year to talk sticks and pics. Check out the podcast (link in bio) if you want to know more about how we met, why we get outside, and what we are up to for the rest of the year. Also, go subscribe to the G.O. Get Outside podcast to hear more stories from people living life and doing fun things in the outdoors! #getoutside (at Crater Lake National Park)

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