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A Few Bowderz From June Lake

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Alex on Wildfire (5.12a) in the Red River Gorge, KY
www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Collin Green on Cellar Door V6
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www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news climbing shoes
For our secondCommunity Discussion, we asked those on our email list to share information about their climbing shoe preferences. We hoped that the feedback collected would shed some light on themostpopular climbing shoes for bouldering, sport, and trad climbing. After analyzing the results, here’s what we found …

Background of survey

The data for this feature was sourced from the 82 responses we received from our survey distributed in our weekly climbing newsletter, sent on 7/28/2016. With this sample size, we can’t draw any grand conclusions, but we found the responses interesting nonetheless. A big thank you to all of those who took a moment to contribute your shoe experience with us.

Demographicinformation

We asked a few questions to gain insight into the type of climbers responding to our survey. Notably, a large majority of respondents have been climbing at least a couple years, and 75% of respondents have experience with at least three pairs of shoes.
How many years have you been climbing?www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Number of Years ClimbingWhat is your preferred style of climbing?www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Preferred Style of ClimbingHow many pairs of climbing shoes have you owned?www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Number of Climbing Shoes
We asked how many shoes our respondents have used as a disqualification question—that is, results shown below are only from those who have used three or more pairs (if someone has only tried one pair of climbing shoes, their opinion toward their favorite pair is pretty limited!).

Results: our audience’s favorite climbing shoes

We asked respondents to tell us their favorite shoe model for each of the following categories: bouldering, sport, trad, and all-around climbing. Participants were advised to enter N/A for any styles not related to them as a climber.

Remember, this is a popularity contest

And what’s most popular is not necessarily what’s best. This is especially true for climbing shoes due to the subjective nature of comfort.
www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news climbing shoes

Top

bouldering

shoe
www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news La Sportiva Miura
La Sportiva Miura / Miura VS
23% of votes
The top

bouldering

shoe among our audience is the La Sportiva Miura. It’s important to note that there are multiple variations of the La Sportiva Miura: there’s the standard Miura (lace-up) and the Miura VS (velcro). It appears that some participants who responded “Miura” may have meant the VS model, while others writing in “Miura” may have meant the lace-up model. Unable to decipher our recipients’ intent, we have groupedboth the velcro and lace-up models together.

Runner-ups

www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news La Sportiva Solution Review Top Bouldering Shoe
La SportivaSolution
19% of votes
www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Scarpa Vapor V Top Bouldering Shoe Review
Scarpa Vapor V
5% of votes
Dramatically downturned and with La Sportiva’s Fast Lacing System, the Solution captured a spot at second place. Coming in third is the Vapor V, which Scarpa touts as a shoethat “opens 5.15 performance to the masses.” Generally speaking, many climbers that have difficulty fitting into La Sportiva shoes (some feel they run too narrow) will find comfort in Scarpa’s models.

Honorable mention

Perhaps the most hilarious responseswe received were from some respondents who primarily considerthemselves trad climbers:
Bouldering is lame
and
none, i hate bouldering…it is for young boys with rubbery bones!!
Thanks for the giggles, you gear pluggin’ guys.

Top sport climbing shoe

Given that boulderers and sport climbers seek similar qualities in climbing shoes, it wasn’t overly surprising to see that the exact samecontenders made the top of the list.
www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news La Sportiva Miura
La Sportiva Miura / Miura VS
22% of votes
The Miura VS is known to have a slightly greater downturn, whereas the lace variation is less aggressive. Broadly speaking, many boulderers prefer the ease of velcro for easy on-off mobility between attempts, while sport climbers may prefer the slightly less aggressive lace-up model.

Runner-ups

www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news La Sportiva Solution Review Top Bouldering Shoe
La SportivaSolution
19% of votes
www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Scarpa Vapor V Top Bouldering Shoe Review
Scarpa Vapor V
7% of votes

Top trad climbing shoe

In the trad category, La Sportiva’s Miura came out on top again, however, was closely matched by the Mythos. And for trad climbing, we assume “Miura” responses weretypically in regard to the lace-up variation, given that most trad climbers avoid foot jamming in velcro!
www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news La Sportiva Miura
La Sportiva Miura / Miura VS
23% of votes

Runner-ups

www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news La Sportiva Mythos
La SportivaMythos
21% of votes
www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news La Sportiva TC Pro Audience Choice
La Sportiva TC Pro
12% of votes

Top all-around shoe

No surprises here: the Miura took first place again, followed by the Mythos, and Five Ten’s Anasazi LV/VCS.
www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news La Sportiva Miura
La Sportiva Miura / Miura VS
20% of votes

Runner-ups

www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news La Sportiva Mythos
La SportivaMythos
13% of votes
www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Five Ten Anasaza LV VCS Top Climbing Shoes
5.10 Anasazi LV/VCS
12% of votes

Favorite climbing shoe brand

Given our responses from above, it was no shock to see that La Sportiva took gold as the favorite climbing shoe brand (54% of votes), followed by Five Ten (15%), Scarpa (12%), Evolv (9%) and others (10%).
www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Audience Choice Top Climbing Shoes
And just in case you want to see a real-life battle between La Sportiva and Five Ten, check out the Shoe War that went down in Joe’s Valley
Additional contributions have been made to this article by:Sander DiAngelis

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