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Howdy Sierra B - C !

Mixing up the climbing today ☺️

Mixing up the climbing today ☺️

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Sure, you may think your technique is solid already. But it’s one thing to think, and another thing to know. Give this quick quiz a go to see how your technique stacks up:

Mark each action you recognize from your climbs:

◊ Excessively large reaches or steps
Too slow of ascents
Banging and scuffing feet
Neglecting your footwork
Bent arms and parallel hips
Heavy-gripping and excessive exertion
Off-balance lunges/dynos
Sequencing mistakes
Arms get pumped quickly
Excessive readjustment of hands/feet
Double foot swaps instead of flagging
Failure to counterbalance
Zig-zagging instead of snapping into position
Poor use of momentum between positions
Swaying hips due to poor body tension
Excessive cutting loose (on purpose or by accident)
Slow to position feet at crux
Failure to switch grips to reduce fatigue
Deteriorating form along ascent

Those are just some of the most commonly made mistakes. No matter how many boxes you checked, even one means there’s still room to tweak that technique.

Our new class, Learn the Technique, can help you do just that. Not only will our instructors help you nail the proper technique, but also help you understand the underlying concepts behind the movements as a whole. Many of these concepts can be self-taught over time, but our technique classes are there to help wildly accelerate the process and get you climbing smarter, better, faster, and stronger straight out the gate.


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Learn the Technique

4 Classes, 2 Hours Per Class

This class is designed for intermediate to experienced climbers who want to learn proper technique, learn training theories, remove bad habits, and get face-to-face with instructors whose only goal is to help you improve.

You’ll learn:

  • Appropriate terminology
  • Pre and post-climbing stretches
  • Advanced footwork and techniques
  • Training theory and best practices
  • Injury prevention
  • More about the BKB community

Ready to improve your climbing technique, make friends and network with others at the same stage in their climbing journey?

BOOK NOW.

The post DOES YOUR CLIMBING TECHNIQUE SUCK? appeared first on Brooklyn Boulders Blog.

Read more http://brooklynboulders.com/blog/does-your-climbing-technique-suck/

I graduated in May!!!!

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Howdy!  It probably would be in gymnastics.  I did dream about being in the Olympics…maybe one day ;)

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It was at a birthday party I attended.  Everyone got to give it a try and then we had some sumo wrestling matches :)

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Steph,
I hope the universe is treating you well and vice versa. It has been great to watch your talents and passions grow throughout the years despite the obvious stones in the road. You have definitely encountered your fill of dragons. It has been astonishing to witness your pluck and grit the last few seasons. I commend you.

I myself am an avid trad climber and paraglider. I love climbing, and I am looking to transition from paragliding to skydiving once I move closer to a drop zone. I was wondering, do you ever feel that wingsuit BASE jumping hinders your progress in climbing or vice versa? They are both demanding sports.

For me, I only had one love and that was rock climbing. Everything was simple and I could pour all my energy and passion into one place. Life was easy. And now a few years later I found air sports. I am quickly falling in love with flying (read; falling) as well. Now I feel my attention and passion is being jockeyed for between the two sports. How did you deal with this? I understand living in a place where you can do both activities in a day is a key. But even so, I find it a difficult transition from a single sport athlete to a multisport athlete. I just feel that my progress in one is always suffering due to time spent on the other.

Thanks for all your thoughtful insights and inspiration.
Make it an extraordinary day,
Swiss

Hi Swiss,
Wasn’t it easy when there was just one thing?
Yes, it is really hard to do more than one thing, especially when you want to do your things well. I struggled hard in my early years of climbing because I wanted to free climb well, but I also wanted to climb big walls and alpine routes. I went to Patagonia every winter, and always in the very best desert climbing season (November) I had to stop rock climbing and go up to the Lasal mountains every day with snowshoes and a backpack of full water bottles and slog up and down hills for hours. I knew if I didn’t do that, I’d suffer in Patagonia and also not succeed. Then when I got home, I had huge legs and tiny arms (T-rex) and had to start trying to get fit for rock climbing again. And then when early summer came and I was finally sort of fit for free climbing again, it was time to start carrying heavy things uphill to get fit to go on an expedition to Asia for another month or two of travel, hiking, load ferrying and a little bit of vertical movement in some form–alpine climbing or big wall aid or free climbing. Although I was technically “climbing full time,” expedition training and climbing was the worst thing I could do for hard free climbing, and vice versa and it was a pretty hard cycle to manage!

This robbing Peter to pay Paul cycle was why I stopped going on expeditions when I wanted to free El Cap in a day and the Salathe–I knew I had to focus completely on free climbing and big wall free climbing for a while if I wanted to be able to take it to the next level. However…all those years spent climbing big walls and carrying heavy things around were what gave me the experience I needed to be able to deal with living on El Cap and climbing hard in the dark and through exhaustion for my one-day free ascent. For the Salathe, I did all the training alone, hiking to the top of El Cap in the morning and climbing on the headwall by myself, and on my free ascent I did most of the hauling, as well as leading every pitch over the multi-day ascent. Again, I absolutely used all my years of alpine and big wall experience to free the Salathe. Since I had those skills in my wheelhouse, when I chose to focus and train on free climbing, I was able to do free climbs that demanded a lot greater skill set than I would have gained simply by focusing only on hard sport climbing or cragging. Ultimately, over the long term, juggling all those seemingly antagonistic activities (and always feeling like I wasn’t progressing quickly in any of them) actually came together to allow me to do some things I definitely wouldn’t have been able to do without having pursued all of them for many years.

Nowadays I’m juggling my most favorite things all the time: free climbing, trail running (though this is more fun/training for the other things), Moab-style BASE jumping and wingsuit flying. And even with rock climbing, I have to decide whether I’m focusing on hard crack climbing, long routes or sport climbing from season to season. Sheer length of time spent in the sport (25 years climbing, 10 years BASE jumping and wingsuiting, 25 years running) allows me to keep them all in the mix. And so it does get easier over time–a long time. But all these activities require their own specific type of training, and they’re not very forgiving of any slacking. I have chosen to live in a place where I can do all these things regularly, which is mandatory, and I do also stay really disciplined with training for all of them.

In recent years, I’m dealing with the fact that training for free climbing is the opposite of training for flying (and hiking up mountains for flying) and vice versa, and I use the same approach I used 15 years ago when dealing with free climbing vs expedition climbing–if I have a particular goal or trip I’d like to do that focuses on just one of these things, I start focusing a lot more specifically on that activity for about a month before the trip, and don’t worry about the other stuff. When I get back, I go back to the rotation approach.

There may even be entire years where you focus solely on one of your sports instead of the other(s), and that’s fine! You have to follow what inspires you–and it’s always possible that over time you find that you have changed and the sport you loved so much isn’t lighting you up the same way anymore. We’re not defined by our activities. We all evolve and there are different times for different things.

Pursuing multiple sports or styles within a sport isn’t easy. It can be hell on your confidence, because you’re always moving between communities of people who are only doing one thing, and you’ll often feel like you’re not progressing as fast. And in the short term, you’re not which can be frustrating. But you have to look at the big picture, in which you’re becoming an expert in multiple disciplines, that actually relate on a bigger scale. The payoff is just as big, but much longer term. I do think there is a limit as to how many things you can do if you want to do them all well and stay safe at them. This is why I don’t pursue paragliding or hang gliding, though I know I would like them. I feel juggling 3 technique/training intensive sports + running is my absolute max, and I can’t take on any more.

Being a multi-sporter also makes you far less susceptible to burnout or overuse injury, which is very healthy in the long term as well. Many of the people I used to climb with years ago, who solely focused on the hardest sport routes and nothing else, don’t even climb anymore because they got burned out or continuously injured.

If you are passionate about more than one sport (even within climbing, it’s very different to focus on bouldering vs sport climbing vs big walling), then you’ll have to be more motivated and more busy, you’ll have to train more and be more disciplined, and you’ll also have to take a more big picture approach. It may take years to see the kind of returns you have in your head right now–but it’s just like life: it’s a marathon, not a sprint 

Read more http://stephdavis.co/blog/multi-sport-challenges/

 

So excited that Focus has 2 hard slab problems up right now…it’s so fun working these beasts!!! 

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I aggravated an old shoulder injury :(  

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