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2017 Belay Devices

A “bridge” is a high-intensity training program that links two close-together peaks of fitness. Frequently, we see climbers ramp-up for the summer season, only to see fitness drift off after a month or so. This comes as no surprise to coaches and physiologists, as it is simply a result of too much intensity too soon in the early season. The fix? A quick bridge program that will restart and re-energize a climber’s performance.

Read more http://www.climbstrong.com/articles/20160729

It’s funny the questions you get after an interview. Last fall, I had the great honor of talking to Neely Quinn at Training Beta for a second time, and had a good chat with Kris Hampton for his new podcast last summer. The format is challenging and I felt like I really had to shoot from the hip on a lot of questions. Needless to say, it’s easier to write articles.

Read more http://www.climbstrong.com/articles/20160130

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Read more http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/deadpoint/~3/T9TWM6agYBk/2017-belay-devices

I wrote a newsletter a few months back where I discussed the idea of “big rocks first.” The general gist is to take care of the most important things in your life before you obsess about the minutiae. People, not just climbers, tend to fixate on the wrong things. We obsess over the things that we perceive as holding us back when we should be leveraging the hell out of the resources we already possess that can move us forward.

Read more http://www.climbstrong.com/articles/20160622

Advanced Block Program - 2015 Revisions One of the more solid concepts I’ve adapted over the years is the “Block” periodization program for climbing. I have written 2-3 articles about it and released a short video a couple of years back. The more athletes we run through these programs, the more easily we can see the flaws and, hopefully, reduce them. 

Read more http://www.climbstrong.com/articles/20151015

Advances in How We Look at Density Training


When you look at intensifying training, there are really just a few ways to make it happen, each having a different result. You can increase the volume of training, such as doing more total pitches in a climbing day. You can increase the intensity of the training, such as trying to do more difficult pitches or problems in a day.

Read more http://www.climbstrong.com/articles/20160108

Miss the good old days of watching Chris Sharma crush boulders?

Well, lucky for you, it looks like those days are back.

In this latest short climbing film from Sharma, he takes us along with him on his trip to Aruba—where he explores a wild array of unique, high-quality boulders on this rarely climber-frequented Caribbean island, just off the coast of Venezuela.

Even though all of these boulders have been here for thousands or millions of years, we bring it this new perspective, this interaction with a place that somehow transforms these boulders into something super beautiful; amazing sculptures that we can climb on.

The post Chris Sharma Develops New Bouldering Area in Aruba appeared first on Moja Gear.

Read more http://mojagear.com/bouldering/2016/08/17/chris-sharma-discovers-develops-new-bouldering-area-aruba/

 

Chris Sharma sent Neanderthal, a possible 5.15b (9b), in the Santa Linya cave, Spain.

Seen in Dosage V, Neanderthal follows a long and sustained 40 meter line with a hard dyno near the top of the wall.

(via ClimbingNarc, Dead Point, 9b)

Read more http://www.allclimbing.com/archive/2009/12/chris-sharma-sends-neanderthal/

 

I haven’t posted in a while, so I thought I’d share with everyone the reason why. I’ve been heads down for the past several months working on my new company, StatsMix. We’re building a web-based service that creates custom dashboards bringing together internal and external metrics in one place so businesses can make better decisions and gain insights.

StatsMix took TechStars founders out for a day of climbing in Boulder Canyon recently. I spoke about the relationship between climbing and building a startup in the following video taken during the trip (starting at 3:27 in the video):

 

If anyone is interested in trying out StatsMix, we’re currently in private beta so just leave your email on the StatsMix site and I’ll get you in as soon as possible.

Read more http://www.allclimbing.com/archive/2010/06/climbing-and-startups/