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9a+ and 9a FAs by Ramonet

A photo of a climb I haven’t sent yet. Some days are just...

A photo of a climb I haven’t sent yet. Some days are just about riding the #strugglebus . Thanks for the festive photo @coleman_becker . (at Priest Draw, Flagstaff)

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“Think now history has many cunning passages, contrived corridors, and issues, deceives with whispering ambitions, guides us by vanities.
…The tiger springs in the new year. Us he devours.”
 
another new year startled us today. somewhere between the late night meandering into a warm bed, after the clock already struck a replayed chime marking the change of calendar (for, we can DVR the change of year and play it in every time zone,) and after the morning coffee, sunrise, prayers, or routines—the time has changed, and so have we.
 
the Wasatch is a flurry, the new recreational pursuits settling into it as the heavy snow settles onto it. it has been a dense year of both snow and increased use of the snow.
 
although this mountain range sits above a major metropolitan area, it retains pockets of wild refuge still hidden from its’ own mountain refugees. these pockets of frozen time are still filled with change. no man steps into the same Wasatch twice, for it is not the same Wasatch, nor is it the same man…
 
a new year; a wasatch akitu

 

 
I should wonder what our old settlers would think, the miners, if they saw my earrings—constructed of rusted 150 year old mining metal which was unearthed on the ‘Millwood 100M’ “course.” a by-product of resource destruction and management, forgotten on a mountainside, found and collected in seeking a sense of home in the mountains I dwell in, and created by my boyfriend as a token of memory and appreciation. the strange way these mountains move us, and their history.
 
“we twa hae run about the braes, and pou’d the gowans fine; but we’ve wander’d mony a weary fit, sin’ auld lang syne.”
 
on the eve of each new year I read Burn’s poem, the words that have morphed into the song oft sung half drunk and with half the applicable interpretation. while each year I pause to reflect on the friendships, people, and places that have influenced my march through time to where I am now, this year these lines stood out—we have run about the mountains, picking flowers, but we have each wandered many weary ways since those days of sunshine…
 
there will always be nostalgia with summer, in particular with the Wasatch summers speckled with mountain-top laughter, glints of sunlight reflecting off of the quartzite, the confetti of flowers sprawled about. but, as with all things nostalgic, we can only enjoy them as much as our pleasure allows in the moment, and leave the interpretation of, and longing for, those moments for when they have passed. those moments are, “in memory only, reconsidered passion.”
 
as-salamu alaykum 2017. with the renewal in a revolutions around the sun, tradition holds to reflect, renew, and rededicate our purpose as human beings.
 
I am drawn to the braes in which I reside. what is their history? as resorts, recreational use, and resource profiling continues to morph and change the Wasatch, what is its future?
 
a new year; a wasatch akitu
 
 
 
beyond the hard-writ facts of mine dates and production numbers, resort fees and the trees/slopes obliterated, what does it mean and feel, these braes, to have drawn so many near to them?
 
“this is the land which ye shall divide by lot. and neither division nor unity matters. this is the land. we have our inheritance.”
 
so this is the story I must explore, exploit with my own intrigue, and record. the only goal for 2017, as a tangible manner, is to write and record the moods of the Wasatch and the people and histories within, at least once per week. {I guess this means I need to make this site more aesthetic if I am to post on it weekly!}
 
“We must learn by acting, experiencing, and living, that is, above all by Love and Suffering. … ‘You were given the power to love, in order to use it, no matter what pain it may cause you.’ ”
 

 

so here is to each of our renewals—a festival of akitu in a modern world—sowing and reaping on our smalls scales the love, suffering, words, thoughts, footprints, and resources around us.
 
a new year; a wasatch akitu
 

Read more http://www.themountainist.com/2017/01/a-new-year-wasatch-akitu.html

A Look Inside the CoA Look Inside the Country’s Raddest Gear Sheds

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Happy 2017 to all of you, and thank you for tuning in with us for a brand spankin’ new year at Moja Gear—a year we vow to make the most incredible one for climbing content yet.

But before we completely kick 2016 aside, our team wanted to highlight a list of the best articles and videos of this past year, based on the most popular pieces within the climbing community (determined by analytics) and our team’s personal favorites.

We hope you’ll enjoy re-living or experiencing these pieces for the first time as much as we did.


What’s In Your Pack: Peter Croft on Gear and Alpine Efficiency

By Sander DiAngelis

Slack for iOS Upload-min

An in-depth interview with Peter Croft with lessons on gear and alpine strategies. Find out his favorite cams, how to make great coffee, and the best climbing shoes ever.

read on

 

Chasing the Ravens: 6,000 Miles on the Wings of Dean Potter

By Bobbijo Sawchyn

dean-potter-flying-free-featured-image-min

Dean Potter was a renegade; controversial in his actions but an inspiration to so many. Here’s a story of that inspiration—of what it means to fly free.

read on

 

BiCi Vertical Trip Report: Biking 1700km and Climbing 100 Pitches Through Patagonia

By Heinrich Flaig and Kevin Boyko

patagonia

Over 1700km of biking plus over 100 pitches of climbing across the Patagonian landscape; hear the story of this pair’s BiCi Vertical adventure.

read on

 

Dirtbag Tricks: Finding Love and Free Showers

By Joel Ryan

Dirtbag in a hot spring

Get the best beta for staying clean on the road, and maybe even finding true love along the way, too.

read on

 

Essay: Looking for a Partner, Pants Off Limits

By Lily Cohen

2171316450_e9c4fc01de_b

A story about the unfortunate experience many women climbers encounter when seeking a male climbing partner.

read on

 

Dirtbag Tricks: How to Stay Warm When It’s F****** Cold

By Joel Ryan

how-to-stay-warm-camping-climbing

If there’s one thing most climbers hate, it’s being miserably cold at the crag. Get tips and tricks to stay warm while climbing and camping.

read on

 

How (and 5 Reasons Why) To Live in a Van

By Sander DiAngelis

vanlife

Learn how to live in a van: where to park, how to make money, and how to stay clean. Also, find 5 reasons why you too should consider van life.

read on

 

6 Tips to Climb Harder Than Ever … While Working Full Time

By Natalie Siddique

crushing at life

So you want to climb like Ondra or Puccio … but you work 9 to 5. Don’t fret—your job doesn’t have to crush your soul. You can crush and work full time too.

read on

 

Haywire: Cheyne Lempe & David Allfrey on Baffin Island’s Big Walls

By Cheyne Lempe

Haywire

A raw and captivating look into Cheyne Lempe’s journey to Baffin Island with climbing partner, David Allfrey.

watch-button

 

An Intimate Chat with Hobo Greg — A “Hitchhiking Mad Man” Living in Joshua Tree

By Georgie Abel

Hobo Greg

An intimate and candid audio interview with none other than “hitchhiking mad man” and dirtbag climber, Hobo Greg. This is one you don’t want to miss.

read on


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The post A Look Back: 2016’s Best Rock Climbing Articles and Videos appeared first on Moja Gear.

Read more http://mojagear.com/journal/2017/01/04/a-look-back-2016s-best-rock-climbing-articles-and-videos/

A little late but hope everyone had a very happy New Year!

A little late but hope everyone had a very happy New Year!

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Description: 

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A Line Across the Sky, Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell.

A Line Across the Sky, Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell.

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A L P I N E · D R E A M S |

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This is a guest post from Kate Blazar. 

What does it mean to be a woman in the outdoors?  Being a woman in the outdoors means many things. No one thing defines us.

Actually, there is one thing many women in the outdoors have in common: blood.

I don’t mean that we’re all related, or we’re part of a cultish outdoor sisterhood.  I’m talking about the biological reality that we bleed.  And when we’re bleeding outdoors without the comforts of a bathroom facility, it can get messy.

I’ve spent the past two years in graduate school studying women’s experiences menstruating outdoors. I’ve compiled stories and feedback from nearly 1,000 women around the world. I’ve conducted surveys, interviews, focus groups, and polls– not out of pure academic curiosity or in pursuit of scientific discovery, but out of a desire to create a product that would make adventuring on our periods easier, cleaner, more convenient, and less confounding. (More about that in a bit.)

What have I learned?  When it comes to bleeding in the great outdoors, women share a lot of experiences in common, but we don’t talk about them. Well, until now, because I’m a barrier-breaking, stigma-eliminating, open-and-honest kind of gal.

3

To start off this conversation, I created a quiz.  It’s called “You Might Be An Outdoorswoman If…”

• There are blood stains in your sleeping bag.
• You’ve squatted behind a boulder (or tree/bush/log/other large object) to change your tampon/pad or empty your menstrual cup.
• You’ve squatted behind a [boulder/tree/bush/log/other large object] to change your tampon/pad or empty your menstrual cup, and while squatting you got blood on your hand(s).
• You’ve squatted behind a boulder (or tree/bush/log/other large object) to change your tampon/pad or empty your menstrual cup, and while squatting you got blood on your hand, and you didn’t have your water bottle nearby or whatever, so you wiped your hand off on the boulder (or /tree/bush/log/other large object) and went on with your adventure.
• You’ve found yourself in the middle of nowhere without a way to dispose of your tampon/pad.
• You’ve found yourself in the middle of nowhere without a way to dispose of your tampon/pad, so you’ve used a food wrapper to dispose of it.
• You’ve disposed of your tampon/pad/liner/wipe/TP in a Ziplock bag.
• You’ve disposed of your tampon/pad/liner/wipe/TP in a Ziplock bag, and put the plastic bag in your coat/backpack pocket and forgot about it until you rediscovered it a day/week/month later.

You get the idea– most women in the outdoors have had menstrual misadventures of one kind or another. That’s why I founded Animosa, a new brand of women’s outdoor gear that aims to remove some of these barriers and empower women to explore the outdoors. The first product is the Go With Your Flow pack—which comes in two sizes and eliminates the hassle, mystery and mess of adventuring on our periods.

1

The Go With Your Flow pack does three things:

• It has a sanitary system for storing used (i.e. blood-soaked) period products.
• It comes with hypoallergenic wipes to clean your lady parts and hands.
• It keeps your fresh products clean and handy (tampons, pads, liners, and/or a menstrual cup).

The Go With Your Flow pack also supports good menstrual hygiene, which is actually really important.  Through my research I discovered that more than a handful of women leave tampons in longer when they’re outdoors (because they can be a hassle to change and mess to dispose of), but this may increase the risk of toxic shock or infection.  Similarly, not changing your pad or menstrual cup often enough can elevate vaginal pH, irritate skin, and encourage infection.  So even when you’re on an epic, engrossing adventure, don’t hold out on changing your tampon/pad/cup and cleaning up!

Because being a woman in the outdoors should mean a bloody good time, not a bloody mess.

Kate Blazar is the Founder of Animosa and the creator of the Go With Your Flow pack. She is a lifelong outdoorswoman, intrepid global traveler, and passionate advocate for women and wilderness. If you’d like to support Kate and Animosa, there is still a few hours left to get a Go With Your Flow pouch of your own at Kickstarter.com.

The post A Kit For Dealing With Your Period Outdoors. Finally. appeared first on Dirtbag Darling.

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A good friend is one who lets you use their flashes. Thanks...

A good friend is one who lets you use their flashes. Thanks @coleman_becker for letting me pretend to be a real photographer.
Coleman working Mother Approved. (at Kelly Canyon)

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This week, we celebrate ten years of hard work for the furtherance of our sport and values!

For the past ten years, the IFSC has devoted itself to the development, regulation and promotion of Sport Climbing competitions around the world. So many National Federations, event organizers, officials, sponsors, media and fans have contributed to the successful growth of the organization and our sport. Most especially, such would not be possible without the dedication of the international athletes, who form the heart of our organization.

Defining moments along the way, key figures and quotes from IFSC athletes can be found in the official press release here.

Please also enjoy the short video below highlighting this incredible journey together!

Read more http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/news/item/872-a-decade-of-growth-for-sport-climbing

A beautiful view of the old quarry pit below

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A video posted by Kat Carney (@katcarney) on Jan 27, 2017 at 9:00am PST

 

A @GoPro compilation of some of the canyon we did this fall. One of my favorite places to be in the fall is surrounded by red rock. #sheexplores #outdoorwomen #optoutside #canyoneer #goprogirl #hero4session

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@prAna showcasing thprAna showcasing their ambassador, Rannveig Aamoldt, bench pressing rocks.

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@lkerby Chulilla, Spain Plan Z

@lkerby
Chulilla, Spain
Plan Z

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@katellev151515 skinning up to get another round of fresh turns....

@katellev151515 skinning up to get another round of fresh turns. #outdoorwomen #sheexplores #optoutside #colorado #ski (at Keystone, Colorado)

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@craigasaurus flying into the weekend. #optoutside #ski...

@craigasaurus flying into the weekend. #optoutside #ski #colorado (at Arapahoe Basin Ski Area)

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@arcelia_climb_mex r@arcelia_climb_mex ready for battle. | Photo: @alpinerudolf #climbing#rockclimbing#climbinggear#tradisrad#tradgear#tradclimbing#gearstoke#weighmyrack

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@ the base of the cables on Half Dome

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9a251e89d2df5086e3c09a251e89d2df5086e3c02a22dee90aff.jpg (736×1103)

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Adam Ondra reports on Instagram that he has done Pachamama 9a+ in Oliana. Photo Petr Piechowicz "Next on the list is an amazing linkup bolted by Chris Sharma of Papichulo and Pachamama," which Adam says could be 9b hard or even 9b+. In total, the Lead World Champion the last two years, have done 43 routes 9a+ and harder. In the three last Boulder World Championships, he has one gold and two silver. The big question 2017 is whether the Czech is going for the Olympic or not?

Read more https://www.8a.nu/

Jakob Schubert, one of the very best competition climbers of the last five years, reports on Instagram that he has done Joe Mama 9a+ in Oliana. In November he fell on the last move but this trip he just warmed up once and did it on his second try. (c) Elias Holzknecht "I have been doing only bouldering and power training in december and was a little worried about my endurance but once again I saw how much such training even helps on endurance monsters."

Read more https://www.8a.nu/

Ruben Firnenburg, #3 in the Combined Youth World Championship, has done Analogica Natural 9a in Santa Linya. (c) Hannes Puman "Actually I chose Analogica to train for Seleccio, but I was suprised by its quality. The style suited me very well and with two hard crimpy cruxes in the first half the sequences were also similar to Seleccio. The big difference to Seleccio is that Analogica has a better rest making it a rather soft 9a."

Read more https://www.8a.nu/

Piotr Schab seems to be in the best shape of his life. He has just sent Analogica 9a in Santa Linya in only four goes. (C) Adam Kokot How can you explain this new peak performance situation? I think this is a process. Last winter we started some pure power training, and then set a long-term plan. A lot of hard work with a coach, physio and climbing crew. I started feeling comfortable on harder moves and routes. This first week in Spain and my fitness is still a big surprise for me but I love this "new" situation. As I told you we have a long term plan and it contains some 9b efforts :)

Read more https://www.8a.nu/

Piotr Schab has done his eighth 9a, Ciudad dos Dios in Santa Linya. "SURREAL DAY! I wanted to optimize the betas, but stuck the crux and somehow managed to finish the route. 3rd go, can't believe it!" Before the big send, Piotr had done one 8c (+) on his second go and an 8c as the plan was to do just an endurance training due to rather poor conditions! In the 8a ranking game, the 20-year-old Pole is #3.

Read more https://www.8a.nu/

Nicolas Favresse has done Du neuf avec du vieux 9a in Briançonnais after a month of training as a preparation for his next big Patagonia project. The route was put up by Yann "Diego" Ghesquiers in 2015. It is interesting that Nicolas never trains indoor or even uses a hang board. "For the past 3 years I have been struggling with a few injuries which have prevented me to push myself in climbing. First I tore a ligament in my wrist which forced me not to climb for a total of 8 months. It was my longest break ever. Then I started to have some issues with my cervical spine which i damage a while ago on a 10m ground fall in the Gunks. The tricky thing is it irritates a nerve whenever I do any physical exercise and then my shoulder tend to become less stable because of that. So the solution for me is to climb mostly on low angle climbs, take a lot of rest and replace indoor training with ski touring in the mountains or other cardio activities. I am really surprised to see how well it works for me. I am pretty psyched because in a few days I go to Torres del Paine, Patagonia with my friends Sean Villanueva and Siebe Vanhee and we need to be strong because our goal is to attempt to free climb a line on the East face of the central Tower. The Torres del Paine has some of the best quality granite in Patagonia and the East face of the Central Tower is longer than El Cap in Yosemite and just as blank and steep! Off course we will bring musical instruments on the wall so that we can elevate ourselves with our music."

Read more https://www.8a.nu/

Sébastien Bouin has done La Novena Enmienda 9a (+) in Santa Linya. (c) Raphael Fourau "In December, during the time I was working as sport teacher, I was training in Paris in order to prepare myself for "La Rambla" (9a+ Siurana). Yet, one week before to go to Siurana I injured my finger, it was a pulley... So to climb "La Rambla" wasn't possible, there are some crimps in the crux. I had to find a project without crimps, but where??? Santa linya was the solution. In fact, even if it was hurting I was able to try the route: La novena enmienda 9a/9a+. I was able to do all the sections in the first go, yet the route is around 50metters in a big overhang. The difficulty was to not injure the finger more. In fact, I had to be careful with my finger and my shape. I couldn't try the route tired. And some days, when my finger was hurting, I couldn't climb, and I needed to wait. Sometimes for many days. I was scared about this injury, that's why I am happy that I did this route, it's good for my mind, and good for the next. Even if it's not my maximal level, I enjoy to do something where I put energy and risk."

Read more https://www.8a.nu/

Jakob Schubert, who has done two 9a+'s in Oliana during the last two weeks, reports on Facebook that he has done Seleccio Anal in Santa Linya, calling it 9a (+). "an amazing goodbye gift after another very fun catalunya trip." (c) Elias Holzknecht What are your 2017 and Olympic plans? "I'm never 100% sure about my plans since I like spontaneous decisions, but right now I'm planning to go back to bouldering Worldcups this year. There are more reasons to it, first I'm enjoying bouldering a lot too and kind of wanna take the challenge to get back into it, it seemed to have changed a lot over the last years and I had troubles to adapt. Second I really want to travel to some crags that are best in summer and fall and that is why I probably want to skip most lead worldcups for the first time. I'm talking about Rocklands but also have some others in mind, we will see. I do have the goal to make it to the Olympic Games in 2020, still waiting for the final decisions how the qualification for it and the actual format will look like. Obviously I'm not very psyched to start training speed, but it's a sacrifice that I will take nevertheless."

Read more https://www.8a.nu/

90377: Frost by nettisrb

90377: Frost by nettisrb

90377: Frost by nettisrb

90377: Frost by nettisrb

90377: Frost by nettisrb

90377:

Frost by nettisrb

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Jonathan Flor reports on Instagram that he has done Crisis 8C/+ near Crevillente, which was put up by Nacho Sánchez. The 20-year-old's second last Instagram post was from the Boulder WC in Munich, 20 weeks ago, when he made it to the semi. Previously, the Spaniard has done six 8c+ Routes and three 8B Boulders.

Read more https://www.8a.nu/

Laura Rogora, who did her first 9a last year, being 14 years old, has done the FA of La Gasparata 8c+/9a at Callepardo, near Rome. It could be the hardest FA ever established by a female. In total, she spent four days and 12 tries on it. In the 8a ranking game, the 15-year-old is strengthening her leading position. (c) Domenico Intorre

Read more https://www.8a.nu/

Laura Rogora has done Joe Blau 8c+ in Oliana. The 15-year-old extends her lead in the 8a ranking game and in fact, in the history of female climbers' ranking her last year tick list is among the Top-5 ever. (c) Stefano Ghisolfi "I did one try four days ago but I thought it was too hard because I had only two more days left before the end of the trip. Yesterday, after a rest day, we come back to Oliana. I wanted to try Mind control but there were too much people on the route so I decided to try Joe Blau again. I understood all the moves and I did a very good try. I fell at the very last move because of the blood on my finger. Today I felt tired and my skin was almost finished but I decided to try it and after a long battle I reach the chain."

Read more https://www.8a.nu/

Matteo Gambaro, who made seven FAs 8b+ to 9a in Albenga last year, has done yet another by Anchorage 8c+. The 42-year-old is #1 in the 40+ ranking game and as a matter of a fact, the Italian is at his scorecard peak. "New line that I ve bolted in october 2016. 28meter overing up the central sector "Terminal" in Val Pennavaire near Albenga/oltre Finale. Powerful and tecnical routhe. 2crux intermediate for a rest and finish with good 8a...All natural.

Read more https://www.8a.nu/

Loic Zehani, who previously has done three 9a's, has done the FA of Concerto in Orgon, video. In the 8a ranking game, the 15-year-old is #10. "The route was bolted by Alexandre Serres and Olivier Bert. It is 40 moves without any rest. The first part is kind of a traverse with a lot of little pinches and a lot of feet moving. It is the nicest part and after you go straight."

Read more https://www.8a.nu/

Ola Przybysz, who had a personal best of 8b some eight months ago, has done her first 8c+, Spicy Noodle in Yangshou. A possible explanation for the great progress can be found on Facebook. (c) Eben Farnworth "Recently I realized that the last couple of years of my life were just a sick game to a person that I thought was really close to me. The heaviness and premeditation of the actions are a real shock to me. There are some things that even with the most detailed explanation I will never understand. It’s just not something from the world I am from....This climb worked like a cure."

Read more https://www.8a.nu/

Jorge Diaz-rullo has done Palestina 8c+ (9a) in Cuenca, which is the second route of the grade for the 17-year-old. "What a Christmas gift! Today I was able to send Palestina, turning into my hardest redpoint to date. Six days and eleven tries, where I really was mindset struggled, feeling keen and psyched looking the route so close and far at the same time. But what I really enjoyed was this process until I did it."

Read more https://www.8a.nu/

Laura Rogora has had two amazing days in Oliana having done two 8c's: T1 Full Equip and Fish Eye. (c) Fabio Fin The 15-year-old and 151 cm tall Italian explains what she likes the most in climbing. "I like climbing because every time is different and every move has different solution and I love search and find my method sometimes using other holds. When I climb my mind is free. I like the contact with the nature and the battle with myself."

Read more https://www.8a.nu/

Patxi Usobiaga reports on Facebook that he has onsighted Fish Eye 8c in Oliana. Patxi is one of the most accomplished climbers in history, with the first 8c+ onsight and victories in both overall world cup and world championships. "So happy to have on sighted Fish Eye 8c , after almost 7 years I got it!"

Read more https://www.8a.nu/

Stefano Ghisolfi, #4 in the Lead WC 2016 including a victory in one event, has done Definicion de resistencia democrata in Terradetts, which he gives a personal 9a grade. (c) Fabio Fin. A few days later he onsighted his first 8c, Fish Eye in Oliana, which took some 30 minutes. In the 8a ranking game, the 23-year-old Italian is #3. "2017 will be focused on both competition and rocks, I did not have plans know for the Olympic until the official rules will be decided! I don't know what is the best format in speed, I don't like it too much."

Read more https://www.8a.nu/

César Quero started climbing when he was 27 years old and now, ten years later, he has done his first 8C, Soyuz Low in Zarzalejo. To make the story even more amazing, he only climbs a couple of days a week. " I think the key is motivation. Do not expect results but enjoy each problem. Not being afraid of failure is the best of success. I don't really training. If I'm not too tired from my job, occasionally I go to gym to do dead hangs and propose difficult problems and solve them, I rarely get it."

Read more https://www.8a.nu/

Charles Albert reports on Facebook that he has done the FA of SDS to Délire onirique 8C in Fontainebleau after about 10-15 sessions. "Easy 8c for tall dudes. Gotta find new hard projects now." Charles is around 183 cm tall. In December, "Mowgli" did the FA of La révolutionnaire 8C and earlier he did the direct version of Le Pied à Coulisse 8C, which is considered impossible if you use shoes. EpicTV video presentation

Read more https://www.8a.nu/

Ichimiya Daisuke has after seven days of projecting done the third ascent of Horizon 8C in Hiei. It was put up by Dai Koyamada and repeated by Ashima Shiraishi. "This problem is a long roof like an horizon..so cool!!" The 162 cm tall 23-year-old biggest plan for 2017 is to go back to Colorado again as he has unfinished business with Jade 8B+ and The Game 8C.

Read more https://www.8a.nu/

Martin Stráník has done a quick two day ascent of Chris Sharma's Catalán Witness the Fitness 8C in Cova de ocell. "Yees, was it a long project in my head, made a quick trip here and did it in two days! Am I super fit right now or is it super easy? Totally my style, but really not hardest problem of this the year, happy Christmas!" In the first World Cup his year, the 26-year-old was #2 and overall he finished #7. In 2007, the Czech was the runner up in the World Championship being just 17 years old.

Read more https://www.8a.nu/

Yesterday Beto Rocasolano did his first 8B flash, Pin y Pon, an old project of which Nacho Sánchez did the FA and which had remained unrepeated since then. (c) Israel Olcina He wrote on Instagram: Today the planets where aligned and accompanied by my sensei Israel Olcina could flash Pin y Pon 8B and then Gorila 8A+(8A)". FA video by Nacho Sánchez to be watched here.

Read more https://www.8a.nu/

Pietro Biagini, who won one Euro Boulder Cup in 2015 and was #4* in the Combined World Championship 2016, has done his first 8B, Alphacentauri in Varazze. He also did Raptor 8B, skipping the elimination holds, and suggested a personal grade of 8A for this variation. In the 8a combined ranking game, the 16-year-old is #3 among the juniors. The photo is from Smeagol 7C. * In the original official results, Pietro was #3 and he also got his bronze standing on the podium in China. One week later, IFSC admitted that they had published the wrong calculation.

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Oriane Bertone, who has done eleven 8A's previously, has done Fragile Steps 8B in Rocklands. On the five meter long very steep problem, the 11-year-old finishes of with two heel hooks high above her head. To make it even more impressive, Oriane did it in just five hot sessions, the last out of which was the coldest with "just" 25 degrees. Video including also an 8A.

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Isabelle Faus has done her 7th 8B in the last eight months, Free Range (aka Cage Free Assis) in Boulder Canyon. "Battle for me, psyched to do it. On to the next." In the 8a ranking game, Isabelle is #1 among the female and #19 overall, which actually makes her the highest ranked female since 8a started in 2000. Her score is also the highest ever! Here you can find the freshly released video of her doing an 8B+.

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Anna Stöhr reports on Facebook that she has done Meadowlark lemon 8B in Red Rocks, which is considered a real stellar problem. However, a couple of months ago, it turned out that it had been chipped but that has not affected the grade. "Yihaaaaaa!!!!! Superpsyched that i climbed this beautiful bloc, the stand start of meadowlark lemon, v13, today. After falling off the slab yesterday, I pulled myself together and climbed to the top. interesting to experience what 'forced restdays' can do to one's motivation...!" Anna is the best female boulderer competitor in the history. Among other successes, she has won two world championships. In 2016, she competed in just five events and nevertheless finished with a bronze in Vail. Previously, the Austrian has done a handful of 8B's.

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Cathy Wagner has done La Kanabica in Rodellar in just two tries, suggesting a personal 8a+ grade. "One of my favourite routes in Rode! Like other climbers, I think there is some inconsistency in the grading... Classics like Florida (L1) or Gladiator are so much harder and much closer to 8b than la Kanabica." In total the 51-year-old has done 572 routes graded 8a and harder, out of which 49 up to 8b in 2016. Fanatic Climbing has helped with a translation of their interview. "I warm up less and less. I have not the patience to deal with and it's an error. My best flash routes have been done completely cold. The few warm up I do it's tai-chi movements, I started lessons since a year. It permits at the moment for me to keep moving my energy with softness and to focus about the moves of the route I'm trying when I'm at the ground."

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Ramón Julian Puigblanque has spent the last weekend before the world championship by doing the FA of Las tres dures 9a in Sadernes and Maya 9a+ in Margalef. The latter, bolted by Vicent Palau, hangs over 45 degrees for almost 40 metres with mainly small pockets and small edges. Ramonet won his first, out of three, Euro Championships in 2004 and the last in 2015. In between, he has won the World Champion in 2007 and 2011 and he has said he is going for it again. The first time the Spaniard did a 9a was in 2002 and in 2003, he did La Rambla and it is a fact that during the last 15 years, he has been the #1 sport climber in the world. (M. Alba)

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A new kind of warm up today You can add new crags including sectors to the database by clicking "Add" to the left and then "Add Crags/Sectors" in a link at the top of that page. You can also write your own news and videos by clicking "Profile, Blog, Training" to the left and then you find the add news and videos link at the top. Later we will check and monitor the news and videos before they are published.

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Dear Brooklyn Boulders Community,

Thank you for your continued patience during the changes and renovations we’ve been undergoing throughout the Summer. These upgrades to our products and facility were made with the best interest of our community in mind. In fact, most of the ideas we had came directly from the community survey we sent out last winter. We still have more, awesome renovations coming to our space soon. If you haven’t had a chance to see what we’re up to, make sure to read our blog post.

We also received a lot of feedback about our change in hours during the Summer. Thanks to those who spoke up and voiced their opinions. Now that our Summer Hours are ending, we are excited to announce that we’ll be staying open later during the week.

Our new hours begin Monday, September 5:

.
MONDAY – FRIDAY
7AM – 11PM

SATURDAY + SUNDAY
9AM – 11PM

 

If you have questions for our team, please do not hesitate to connect with us at Ten adres pocztowy jest chroniony przed spamowaniem. Aby go zobaczyć, konieczne jest włączenie w przeglądarce obsługi JavaScript..

The post BKB Somerville: Fall Hours Begin Labor Day, September 5 appeared first on Brooklyn Boulders Blog.

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Hipnofotofilia 8b+ from Karma Production on Vimeo.

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For strength working harder problems definitely is helpful.  For endurance I’ll do 4x5′s ( choose 5 problems, do problem#1 4x, rest 5 minutes then repeat with the other problems).Year round I’ll do both types of workouts, but closer to a comp I’ll do more 4x5′s.

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Feeling strong during training tonight

Thank you! :)

I think it depends on the person.  For me, I climb best indoors when I have been training indoors.  For other people they seem to be more flexible between the two :)

Have a great week!!!

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Greg Epperson: WomenGreg Epperson: Women of Climbing | ROCK and ICE Magazine

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