2016 Athletes' Commission Results

The 2016 Athletes' Commission elections were held at the IFSC World Championships in Paris. The results are as follows:

President: Sean McColl CAN

Lead representatives: Delaney Miller USA and Jakob Schubert AUT

Speed representatives: Anna Tsyganova RUS and Dmitrii Timofeev RUS

Paraclimbing representatives: Frederik Leys BEL and Oriane Moreno Defourné FRA

Boulder representatives: to be appointed by IFSC President at the 2017 Plenary Assembly.

Congratulations to the re-elected and newly elected representatives. The IFSC Executive Board looks forward to working with these dedicated Athletes.

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Alex Puccio is back on the mend after being sidelined from climbing due to a neck injury. And in an rare move for her, she has been clipping bolts. Puccio has sent two 8b routes, Atomic Cows in Wild Iris, and Dead Souls in American Fork Canyon. The two routes top Puccio’s hardest grades to date while tied in.

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Complete results.

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And sometimes you reach the top just in time ? Photo: Bram...

And sometimes you reach the top just in time

Angie Payne Two In A DayAngie Payne Two In A DayAngie Payne Two In A DayAngie Payne Two In A DayAngie Payne Two In A Day

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The Athlete Comission elections will be held in the AccorHotels Arena during the Paris World Championships.

Voting takes place on

  • Friday, September 16th, 2016  from 1100hrs- 1400hrs and 1630hrs- 1830hrs
  • Saturday, September 17th, 2016 from 0800hrs-1000hrs and 1530hrs- 1700hrs.

Only Accredited athletes will be able to vote at the gate used for Isolation. Results are expected to be published Saturday 17th of September at 1900hrs on the Official Board.

Official Release .

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Black Diamond - Project: BootcampBlack Diamond - Project: BootcampBlack Diamond - Project: BootcampBlack Diamond - Project: BootcampBlack Diamond - Project: Bootcamp

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Article by Peter Sancianco with photos and artwork by Craig Muderlak

In this edition of “Climbers of Rock Spot,” we sat down with local climber, artist and winner of both the Copp-Dash Inspire Award from the American Alpine Club as well as the Shipton-Tilman Award from GORE-TEX, Craig Muderlak! He’ll be giving a free multi-media presentation on his expedition to the Neacola Mountains over at Whaler’s Brewing Company next to our Peace Dale location on Monday, September 19, 2016 at 7pm. It’s going to be a really fun community event with an incredible story from an amazing climber.


Mt. Waddington, British Columbia

What was your inspiration to go on such an incredible adventure to the Neacola Mountains in Alaska?

My inspiration for this expedition began with a photo and fascination with that region of Alaska. Two years ago, I was killing time, looking through images of the Aleutian Mountains in Alaska and simply day-dreaming. Eventually, I came across some photos of the Neacola Moiuntains on a blog. I continued to search for information on the Neacolas and soon they became a fascination. I learned about how obscure they were, with very few expeditions visiting the region - only a handful of teams have visited the area and most of the peaks in the regions remained unnamed. My research led me to photos of two specific peaks which became the impetus for this expedition. So, essentially the inspiration was my passion for alpinism, a couple photos, and the propensity for big adventures in Alaska.


“Neacola Mountains” by Craig Muderlak

How did you get into climbing?

Even though I grew up a “flatlander” in Wisconsin, I always knew my heart was in the mountains. I moved to Colorado for college in 1998 and that’s when I began climbing. It quickly became a consuming passion of mine and has remained that way ever since. Since then, I continued to push my personal climbing and I also have worked as a mountain guide and as a National Outdoor Leadership School (NOLS) instructor for eight years.


NOLS winter course, Tetons, Wyoming

Congratulations on winning the Copp-Dash Inspire Award from the American Alpine Club as well as the Shipton-Tilman Award from GORE-TEX for this expedition! Can you tell us how you heard about these grants and why you felt your application stood out among the other applications?

I had known about the Copp-Dash Inspire Award, other American Alpine Club grants, and the Shipton-Tilman Goretex grant for some time but it wasn’t until I dreamed up this wild adventure that I really thought seriously about applying. I had actually applied the year prior for a different AAC grant with a slightly different proposal but didn’t receive it. When I reapplied, we changed our objective, our route, and applied to the the Copp-Dash Inspire award which emphasizes the media component which I have a lot of experience with. We were elated to received the grant and then decided to apply for the Shipton-Tilman grant which aligns perfectly with the adventurous, human powered aspect of our expedition. What made our proposal stand out was that fact that it was to a very remote region in Alaska and had a really compelling adventurous/exploratory component. This is definitely something that the Shipton-Tilman grant emphasizes.


“Yosemite Valley” by Craig Muderlak

Do you feel that climbing has helped you in other aspects of your life besides being active and physically fit? If so, do you have any examples?

Along with art, climbing has been one of the most influential activities in my life. I don’t always understand why it’s been so important to me other than it has provided many of the most meaningful powerful human experiences of my life. From a very young age, I have been aware of my need for adventure and the happiness both it and the outdoors bring me. All I know, is that when I’m adventuring these wild places, I feel a sense of well-being that I can’t find anywhere else.


The Salathe, El Cap, Yosemite

On your expedition to the Neacolas, it looks like you had to pack raft as well as ski on handmade wooden skis. What other outdoor hobbies do you have?

Our Neacola expedition was not simply a climbing trip. We wanted a larger adventure that was not only contingent on the climbing objectives we completed but also our ability to complete a convoluted route from our base-camp to Cooke Inlet. In order to do so, we needed skis and packrafts and be able to travel as light as possible which wasn’t easy considering all the equipment we had. We made wooden skis so that we could burn them and save weight during our route to the ocean. I used to whitewater kayak a lot, but packrafting was new to me. They are really amazing boats that allowed us to travel through some crazy terrain.


Training for the Neacolas, East Branch of Pemigewasset River, NH

What advice do you have for amateur climbers who hope to one day go on expeditions of their own?

My advice to climbers who want to go on their own expeditions is to make sure you have a mentor or some other means to learn the necessary skills. Nothing replaces the education you can learn from this type of apprenticeship. In terms of the type of expedition we did to the Neacolas, it was paramount that we were all on the same page in terms of wanting this scale of adventure and were willing to put the work in to research and plan sufficiently. Also, maybe most importantly, we enjoy each others’ company and know how to have fun in adverse conditions.

Where is your favorite outdoor location to climb and why is it so special to you?

Hmmm. I have so many favorite places to climb. I recently moved out East after living out West for many years so now I have all these new places that I’m really enjoying. Out East I’d have to say that I enjoy climbing in the Adirondacks because of high quality granite, expansive landscape, and refreshing lakes to swim in. Out West, I have a strong connection to the Diamond on Longs Peak in Rocky Mountain National Park. I spent a lot of time up there because it was close to where I lived and adventurous. The rock is excellent, most of the climbing is above 13,000 feet and the views are stunning.


The Diamond, Longs peak, Rocky Mountain National Park

What do you feel is your biggest accomplishment in climbing?

My biggest accomplishment in climbing is definitely the Neacola expedition. I’ve never put that much planning and invested that much of myself in an expedition. To come out of that trip safe and that successful in terms of the climbing objectives and everything else the trip entailed is pretty difficult to top.

Do you have any projects you’re working on this season?

I’m not much of a ‘projector’ in terms of climbing. Every once and a while I pick out a climb that I’ll project but that’s not really what motivates me. I like to get out and see new places and as much as possible get on long multi-pitch routes. My biggest project, if you will, is a film I’m working on about a paraplegic climber working towards his goal of climbing El Capitan. However, this film is about much more than a paraplegic climber. It’s really about the community of friends, family, mentors, and strangers committed to helping him realize his dream. We were in Yosemite last fall and will be heading back to Yosemite in October to help him get up El Cap and finish the production. We actually have a Kickstarter Campaign up right now to raise funds for the production: Link Here:  We’re really excited about this production because it’s unique narrative that offers an alternative to typical climbing media covering elite climbers.


Carrying Enock up to the base of Astroman, Yosemite Valley

Do you see climbing as a major part of your life in the future?

I can’t imagine not having climbing as a part of my. As I get older, my body definitely can’t stand up to the same demands it used to. However, with age, my connection to climbing continues to deepen. Increasingly, I rely on climbing for a sense of purpose, a way to manage stress, and to find focus. I’ve never been more in love with climbing than I am now.

We hope you enjoyed the interview. For more info on Craig’s free presentation on Monday, September 19, 2016 visit:

For more info and to support Craig’s current project, “Enock,” visit:


“Astroman”, Yosemite Valley - during filming of “Enock” film

A full cut of his entire expedition won’t be ready until next year, but you can catch a short cut at our Action! Film Festival on Thursday, October 27, 2016 at our Peace Dale location. Learn more here:

For more info on the Copp-Dash Inspire Award from the American Alpine Club, click here:

For more info on the Shipton-Tilman Award from GORE-TEX, click here:

Peter Sancianco is our Regional Marketing Assistant for Rhode Island

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Competitions are always exciting and I’m pleased to say...

Competitions are always exciting and I’m pleased to say I’ve competed in my first World Championships :) No semi-finals for me…but on to the next one ;)

Thanks Liam Lonsdale for this killer photo!

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