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Hidden Creek Boulders - Montana

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The third day in Paris starts with the Speed qualification including the participants going for the Combined. Kuba Glowka has helped us out to calculate the results, based on the ranking in each discipline, prior to the Speed. 1. McColl Sean CAN - 3,5 : Ebner Andrea ITA - 6 2. Firnenburg David GER - 8: Durif Charlotte FRA - 7 3. Cornu Manuel FRA - 9,5 : Elena Krasovskala RUS - 11 4. Barrans David GBR - 11 : Kazbekova Ievgeniia UKR - 11 5. Cho Seungwoon KOR - 15 : Miller Delaney USA - 12 The Live Streaming of the male Bouldering and female Lead semifinals starts at 19.30.

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Marcin Dzieński, who did win the three last Speed WCs and who was interviewed by 8a last week, is the new Speed World Champion. Actually, he was superior in all four rounds and amazingly, he was the fastest in the Final, 5.83, which was his fourth run in just about 40 minutes.

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Sean McColl has made it into the semifinal in both Lead and Bouldering and, as he was #37 in Speed at 8.65, he has secured the Combined title. The fastest Combined competitor was Manuel Cornu from France #31 at 7.85. Among the Combined female competitors, Elena Krasovskaia (15) was fastest with 9.83 and she together with Charlotte Durif and Andrea Ebner are in the best position. The winner will not be known until the semifinals in Lead and Bouldering.

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In the framework of the IFSC World Championships, the IFSC offered a Media Training Event in the Paris ArccorHotels Arena for National Federations and Athletes, with thirteen Federations and thirty people attending.

Featuring the guest speakers Sarah Pitkowski,a former tennis champion and TV commentator who now runs the communications agency 15Love, and Erik Bielderman,a sport journalist, consultant forl'Equipe 21, W9 and RTL, with thirty years of experience. The speakers presented information on the traditional medias, approaches to communicate with different mediums and good practices for social media. The IFSC would also like to thank Shauna Coxey for giving her time and providing extra insight through her testimonial about the importance of learning to manage the media as an Athlete.

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Morning view of semi-finals :) @sanuk #Sanuk (at AccorHotels...

Morning view of semi-finals :) @sanuk #Sanuk (at AccorHotels Arena)

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Tomoa Narasaki, the overall World Cup 2016 winner, has won the gold in a spectacular show in the World Championship in Paris. Last year, the 20-year-old was #30 in the Boulder World Cup and #4 in the Youth Worlds. The Japanese started the 2016 season being #18 and #15 and then something clicked as his worst result in the last five WCs was #2. During the final in Paris he made quick work on the three Boulders. He only failed on the second Boulder, where it seemed he was hindered by his height. Adam Ondra, the double World Champion from 2014, was second, putting up a great show. The World Championship was actually his first Bouldering competition in 2016 and last year he was #6 on average, counting the last three WCs. Manual Cornu, who is currently second in the Combined after winning Speed at 7.83, did get the bronze. The French was actually leading after two problems and had one hand on the top of the third problem. On the fourth he fought so hard that he got a standing ovation. Noteworthy is that the winner, Narasaki, was last into the final and started first out. Since 2007, the guys starting first have gotten four golds and three silvers during eleven events.

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Elena Krasovskaia (16), who was #14 in the European Youth Bouldering Championship last month, was the big sensation making it into the Final with five big favorites. As she is #20 in Speed at 9.83, she is in the leading position to win the Combined. (c) Eddie Fowke 17:30-19:00 Bouldering Final Men 19:30 Awarding Ceremony 20:15-21:00 Speed Final Men 21:00-22:00 Lead Final Women 22:00 Awarding Ceremony

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If you can ride a horse you can ride a hippo… @sanuk...

If you can ride a horse you can ride a hippo… @sanuk #Sanuk (at La Ménagerie, le zoo du jardin des Plantes)

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Breathtaking climbs, standing ovations, national anthems...day four in Paris had it all!

Every Athlete who flashed two problems advanced to Finals in Women Bouldering. Most Semi-Finalists did so on problems one and four, but Akiyo Noguchi and Miho Nonaka of Japan also pulled past the large spherical volumes of W3 on their first attempt. The story of the round was Elena Krasovskaia, the sixth and final Athlete to qualify for the next round. The sixteen-year-old from Russia secured her victory in the Overall and may be the youngest IFSC Athlete to become a Combined world champion. She placed 20th in Speed and 29th in Lead yesterday.

In the evening, three Frenchmen competed in the Finals for Men Bouldering, and all three Athletes received standing ovations at the end of M4. Most finalists stuck the triple dyno on M1, but only Mickael Mawem and Manuel Cornu kept their balance on the M2 slab. Tomoa Narasaki of Japan, who became the 2016 Bouldering World Cup champion in Munich last month, and Adam Ondra of the Czech Republic, reigning Bouldering world champion, both rebounded on M3. The podium placements were left a mystery until M4, a burly bloc requiring both endurance and extension. Cornu grimaced at the crux and did not Top, but his passionate effort still greatly pleased his home crowd. He finished in third place when Adam Ondra found a no-hands rest before cruising through the toughest section. In the end, Narasaki became the new world champion with a Top on M4, completing three problems in fewer attempts than Ondra.

Thousands of Sport Climbing fans once again fell silent out of respect for the Men B1 (visual impairment) Paraclimbers, who depend upon communication with their coaches on the ground. Nicolas Moineau, winner of the 2012 IFSC World Championships in Paris, was first out onto the steep Finals wall for France, and his endurance earned him Silver. Matteo Stefani fell a few holds earlier, but the Italian still touched enough holds to stand on the podium. Climbing higher than them both was Koichiro Kobayashi of Japan. The reigning world champion fell one move from the Top for Gold, with thousands of excited fans applauding below him.

Not long after the Paraclimbing Finals ended, Marcin Dzienski extended his winning streak to four IFSC competitions. The Polish speedster posted a 5.83 in the final match against Reza Alipourshenazandifar for the top spot on the podium. Alipoushenazandifar slipped in the final race, but the Iranian Athlete ousted Aleksandr Shikov by one hundredth of a second in an emotional semi-final face-off. Shikov claimed the remaining medal for Russia with a 5.95, besting the crowd favorite, Bassa Mawem of France.

Earlier in the day, Ondra climbed two moves from the top of the overhanging Lead wall. The Semi-Finals route boasted a variety of challenges, with slopers at the start, campusing on an extended volume in the middle and blank volumes to finish. Gautier Supper was the first Athlete to reach the top panel, with the French crowd supporting him. Only Ondra and Slovenian Domen Skofic, leader of the 2016 Lead World Cup rankings, surpassed him.

The best Lead Women in the world closed out today’s events. Unforgiving blue slopers kept four finalists at bay, and the five other Athletes in harnesses slapped chalk on the penultimate sloper. Anak Verhoeven of Belgium was the first to stick the move and clip the chains, a feat which stood alone until the final climber of the day: Slovenian Janja Garnbret. The seventeen-year-old and leader of the 2016 Lead World Cup rankings matched Verhoeven’s performance with a Top of her own, pounding the wall in celebration. A countback to Semi-Finals broke the tie, making Garnbret the second youngest Woman to win the IFSC World Championships in Lead. 2014 runner-up, Mina Markovic, stayed on the podium with Bronze due to another countback.

Pictures and a Highlights video can be found on the Climbing and Paraclimbing event pages. Tune-in tomorrow for the fifth and final day of the 2016 IFSC World Championships!

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After much anticipation, the doors of the AccorHotels Arena opened today for the first round of the 2016 IFSC Climbing and Paraclimbing World Championships in Paris. The atmosphere was electric, and our Athletes did not disappoint. At the end of the day, familiar faces were leading the scoreboard.

Six of the top eight Men in the 2016 IFSC Bouldering World Cup rankings finished in the top eight today. The season champion, Tomoa Narasaki of Japan, was again in good form and completed all five problems. Reigning Bouldering world champion, Adam Ondra of the Czech Republic, placed sixth with four flashes, and Frenchman Alban Levier wowed his home crowd as the only Athlete to flash all five problems.

Our Lead Athletes authored a similar story. The top five Women in the 2016 IFSC Lead World Cup rankings are tied for first after the first round in Paris, along with Austrian Jessica Pilz. Anak Verhoeven of Belgium, winner of the most recent competition in Arco and 2016 Lead World Cup frontrunner, continued her momentum on Day One. Jain Kim of Korea, the reigning Lead world champion, also clipped the chains today.

In Paraclimbing, Elodie Orbaen of Belgium is again the frontrunner for Women RP3 (limited range, power or stability), but Oriane Moreno tied the 2014 world champion in Route 1. Multiple Women reached the Top in AU-2 (forearm amputees), including Melinda Vígh of Hungary and Maureen Beck of the USA. In Women AL-2 (leg amputees), 2014 runner-up Kate Sawford looked strong, joining Esme Harte of Great Britain and Luci Jarrige at the Top of Route 1.

For the Men, the Frenchmen fared well in the visual impairment categories. Nicolas Moineau matched 2014 world champion Koichiro Kobayashi in Men B1, while Mathieu Barbe led the way in Men B2, along with Simone Salvagnin of Italy. Several strong Athletes completed the first Qualifications route for Men AL-2, including Urko Carmona Barandiaran of Spain, who won in Paris in 2012. Men RP1 was more decided, with Korbinian Franck of Germany the only Athlete to match on the final hold. In Men RP3, Mathieu Besnard is on track to defend his world title in front of his home crowd, and Nive Porat could bring home Gold for Isarael in Men RP2.

Pictures and Highlights can be found on the Climbing and Paraclimbing event pages.

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The spotlight was on and the crowd was loud for the third day of the 2016 IFSC World Championships.

POnly when the Men B1 finalists stepped up to the Finals wall did the crowd hush, out of respect for the communication between Athletes and their coaches who direct from the ground. Mathieu Barbe of France was the first Athlete to Top and placed second, but Sho Aita of Japan donned Gold after pausing to solve the final move. Korbinian Franck and Nils Helsper won two medals for Germany in RP1, and Nive Porat earned Gold for Israel as the only Man to Top in the RP2 category. In RP3, teammates Romain Pagnoux and Mathieu Besnard finished first and second and brought home more hardware for France.

For the Women, eight countries were represented on the podiums. From Belgium, Elodie Orbaen defended her place atop the RP3 category in the final round. When both Athletes were tied after three rounds, Maureen Beck of the USA edged Melinda Vígh of Hungary in AU-2 by climbing the Finals route in less time. Three French woman wore medals, including Luci Jarrige, who remained unbeaten all week in AL-2. All finalists offered a spectacular show and very emotional awards ceremony to a packed audience!

Reigning world champion Danyil Boldyrev of Ukraine energized the crowd by scaling fifteen meters in six seconds, but the Speed World Record holder’s time atop the results was short-lived. Reza Alipourshenazandifar of Iran, Bronze medallist at the 2014 IFSC World Championships, posted a time of 5.96 in his second heat. Not far behind them was Libor Hroza of the Czech Republic, runner-up at the IFSC World Championships in Paris four years ago. Anna Tsyganova placed 31st at that competition, but the Russian is on pace for a better placement this year. Her time of 7.88 in Qualifications bested 45 of the fastest Speed Athletes in the world. Also racing was Anouck Jaubert of France, winner of the three most recent IFSC Speed World Cups, and Speed World Record holder Iuliia Kaplina of Russia.

Two Tops earned a ticket to Finals, and three Frenchmen will be making the journey: Jeremy Bonder, Manuel Cornu and Mickael Mawem, who received plenty of support from the Paris crowd. The other story of the night was Tomoa Narasaki’s bid for Finals. The 2016 Bouldering World Cup champion kept the crowd on the edge of their seats, keeping his balance on the fourth and final Semi-Finals problem long enough to sneak past Alexey Rubtsov of Russia by bonus hold attempts.

Last but not least, the six Women who topped all four Lead Qualifications routes on Wednesday advanced to Finals tonight. Seventeen-year-old Janja Garnbret set the high point, slipping off the penultimate Semi-Finals hold. Her Slovenian teammate, Mina Markovic, fell one hold lower on the top panel. Jain Kim of Korea also increased the volume in the AccorHotels Arena and finished third.

Pictures and a Highlights video can be found on the Climbing and Paraclimbing event pages.

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The second day of Qualifications were as exciting as the first, and many elite Athletes made the cut!

Only weeks after securing the top spot in the National Team Ranking for the 2016 Bouldering World Cup, Japan continued their dominance in the first round of the IFSC World Championships. Akiyo Noguchi, who won Bronze at the 2014 IFSC Bouldering World Championships in Munich, and Miho Nonaka, runner-up of the 2016 season, topped the two Qualifications groups. Not far behind them was Melissa Le Neve of France, who placed third this season and finished third in Qualifications today, much to the delight of the weekday crowd in Paris.

Eight Men fought the pump long enough to clip the chains of both Qualifications routes. 2014 world champion Adam Ondra looked strong again, even after competing in Bouldering yesterday, but he will have to contest with veterans Jakob Schubert of Austria and Sean McColl of Canada, who stood higher on the podium at the 2012 IFSC World Championships in Paris. Romain Desgranges should receive plenty of support in Semis on his home turf.

Aika Yoshida fell just shy of Elodie Orbaen of Belgium and Oriane Moreno of France yesterday, but the Japanese Athlete was the only Woman in RP3 (limited range, power or stability) to latch the final hold in the second round of Qualifications. After multiple Tops on Wednesday, American Maureen Beck and Melinda Vígh of Hungary separated themselves from the field in Women AU-2 (forearm amputees). Lucie Jarrige of France was the only Athlete in Women AL-2 (leg amputees) to stay perfect on Day Two.

For the Men, Matteo Stefani of Italy bested some very strong competitors in Men B-1 (visual impairment). Stefani placed third in 2012 and is on track for another medal this competition. In Men B-2, 2012 world champion Sho Aita of Japan continued to stand out, tallying his second Top of the week. Seven Athletes in Men AL-2 reached the Top yesterday, but Albert Guardia Ferrer and Iván Germán Pascual of Spain set the bar in the second round of Qualifications. Germany also made their presence known at the AccorHotels Arena, with Nils Helsper and Korbinian Franck scoring well again in Men RP1. Russian Vladimir Netsvetaev-Dolgalev took the lead in Men RP2, and Frenchmen Mathieu Besnard and Romain Pagnoux are tied for first in Men RP3.

Pictures and a Highlights video can be found on the Climbing and Paraclimbing event pages.

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Janja Garnbret grabs the second last hold, slips of for a split second, takes it again and continues to the final hold. Once again a World Champion in Paris gave an amazing show. Anak Verhoeven actually topped earlier with a margin but as she had worse result in the semi, Janja is the winner, which was based on countback. In the junior events, Janja has been superior for many years. When she started to compete win the seniors in some WCs last year she was was mainly runner up. This year she started by winning the three first World Cups but in the two last events she was #3 and #5 before she got the biggest title in Paris.

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