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Paradise and Prospect Bouldering

Qualifications in Paris tomorrow :D ?: @philip_quade

Qualifications in Paris tomorrow :D

rei's photo on Instarei's photo on Instagram

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Extremely technical problems in the male semifinal with very few top outs. The World Cup winner qualified by doing just one problem. But once again, the commentary misled the audience by saying that Tomoa had to top the last problem to make it into the Final. Once the Japanese had gotten the bonus in the right number of attempts, they continued to say a bonus was actually enough but we did not know how many he used. Tomoa needed three attempts and he would have made it to the final if he had used five! Please IFSC, it has been like this for the whole season and now we have commentary misleading the audience in World Championships in a sport going for the Olympics! It is noteworthy that only one of the Top-6 in the qualification made it to the Final and this guy was #6. Complete results.

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All the big female names topped both routes in the qualifications; Janja Garnbret, Jain Kim, Jessica Pilz, Mina Markovic, Anak Verhoeven and Magdalena Röck. If they have identical results in both semi and final, the ranking is established basing on who climbs fastest in the final. (c) Eddie Fowke

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Thanks for the great climbing sesh @matthew_paraclimbing ...

Thanks for the great climbing sesh @matthew_paraclimbing & @robinoleary :D (at Arkose)

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Tune into the women’s bouldering finals live stream at 12...

Tune into the women’s bouldering finals live stream at 12 PM Paris time! You can see the strongest ladies in the world compete and I get to commentate

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During the second day of the World Championships in Paris, we did not see any sensational results for the Male Lead and Female Bouldering. Four male of each group topped both qualification routes excluding Domen Skofic and Gauthier Supper. Complete results. Among the female, Akiyo Noguchi and Miho Nonaka, both from Japan, won each group. Complete results.

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The IFSC would like to inform athletes and coaches of the following meetings to be held in the AccorHotels Arena.

The Olympic Format meeting will be held Friday September 16th, 2016 at 1430 hrs to 1530hrs. The location is the same as the Technical Meeting, Gate 35.

There will also be a meeting to discuss the new Paraclimbing classification system. This will take place Saturday 17th, at 1400hrs to 1500hrs. It will also be held in the same location as the Technical Meeting, Gate 35.

 

 

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Complete results.

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Following the Sport Department proposal, Executive Board decision and announcement at the 2016 IFSC Plenary Assembly in Iran, the IFSC called for proposals from manufacturers wishing to provide Automatic Belaying Systems for IFSC Speed events.

After careful evaluation, the IFSC selected Perfect Descent and the Model 220 with Speed Drive Technology. These devices have already been used at the Chamonix and Villars IFSC Speed World Cups, and they are also in use this week at the IFSC Climbing and Paraclimbing World Championships in Paris. Today, the agreement was officially signed at the AccorHotels Arena.

“We are excited to be involved with the IFSC and the growth of Speed climbing around the world,” says Andrew Miller, Vice President of Aerial Adventure Technologies, distributor of Perfect Descent Auto-Belay systems. “We look forward to supporting IFSC competitions and Athletes in the coming years.”

Additional information can be found in the Press Release announcing this decision. Should you have any questions regarding the Model 220 device, please contact Perfect Descent directly at the following email address: Ten adres pocztowy jest chroniony przed spamowaniem. Aby go zobaczyć, konieczne jest włączenie w przeglądarce obsługi JavaScript..

 

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Petra Klingler, who has just made one WC final 2016, found the key toe-hook unintentionally on the fourth problem and the emotions are just overwhelming. She gets her acts together and does a dynamic catch to the right stopping the pendulum by ending in the big cross. Topping out she almost immediately start crying. - Mind blow! It is nothing in your head anymore. It is just like happiness going through your whole body... it does not matter what the ranking would be. It was just so much fun to climb this final. (Picture and comments from the very nice live-streaming). Last out was Akiyo Noguchi, who had onsighted two boulders and had both hands on one problem, but she could not handle the pressure and she was #3. The silver was taken by Miho Nonaka who also was #2 in the Boulder World Cup 2016. Complete results.

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Sport Climbing has grown significantly since the previous IFSC World Championships in Paris in 2012, and today FFME and IFSC dignitaries spoke on the positive evolution of the sport.

The Press Conference was held in the newly renovated Bercy Arena (now the AccorHotels Arena), during a break at the 2016 IFSC Climbing and Paraclimbing World Championships. Anne Fuynel, IFSC Marketing and Communications Director, introduced the conference, which concerned the development of Sport Climbing since the event was held in Paris four years ago. The signature event of the 2016 IFSC Calendar takes place only weeks after the inclusion of Sport Climbing in the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games. Members of the media from Japan attended the Press Conference.

"We are celebrating here in this beautiful, renovated arena the growth of our sport and the IFSC Climbing and Paraclimbing World Championships," says IFSC President Marco Scolaris, who sat beside Pierre You, President of the Fédération Francaise de la Montagne et de l'Escalade (FFME). "We are celebrating Sport Climbing as one family, whether you are young or old, short or tall, man or woman or have a disability. We are proving that this sport deserves to be in the Olympics."

IFSC Athletes Sebastian Halenke and Charlotte Durif, member of the IFSC Athletes' Commission, shared in the President's sentiments. "It is a great honor for our sport to be Olympic," says Durif. "It goes in line with the logical evolution of our sport and, thanks especially to the work of the FFME and IFSC, we are finally there."

Also present on the panel was IFSC Vice-President Treasurer and Finances and FFME General Manager (FRA), Pierre-Henri Paillasson, IFSC Sport Director Jerome Meyer, and Kobinata Toru, IFSC Asian Council Vice-President (JPN).

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