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Adam Ondra wins in possibly the best show ever

Based on the constraints IFSC has put forward in regards to IOC demands, here is a simple Olympic format solution. All 20 participants will first do one round of Speed, Boulder and Lead. The Top-8 qualify to the final, which is dependent on the ranking sum. In the final round, all 8 finalists will do all disciplines again and the ranking will determine the medalists. Alternatively, only 6 qualify to the Lead superfinal based on ranking sum of Speed and Boulder. Day 1: Speed and Boulder qualification format Day 2: Lead semi format and appointing who is in the Top-8 Day 2: Speed Final Day 3: Boulder Final and Lead Final/Superfinal The advantage of this simple solution is that all competitors will compete in all three disciplines, which is not possible in the IFSC suggestion. Only minimal additions would be made to the World Championships and Continental Championships, which will count as the Olympic qualifications.

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Adam Ondra was last out on the super spectacular final route and the excitement in the arena was full on. In the end everyone was standing up and once the 23-year-old sticked the last double dyno, he turned to the spectators full of adrenaline and continued to the top. Many of the guys in the live-streaming said it was the best show they had seen. Sport climbing is ready for the Olympic Games. (c) Eddie Fowke - The Circuit

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bouldercat: Girls of Texas. Hueco Tanks, TXThis climb played...

bouldercat: Girls of Texas. Hueco Tanks, TXThis climb played...

bouldercat:

Girls of Texas. 

Hueco Tanks, TX

This climb played wonderfully to my strengths. Follow me on instagram for more shots from my roadtrip to Hueco and around the USA @merissahhhhh

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The emotional grand finale started with Women Bouldering Finals at noon.

Nearly every finalist stuck the crowd-pleasing dyno on W1 and, although none of the six Athletes matched on the slippery finishing sloper, their wrestling with massive spherical volumes still energized the audience. Five Women solved W3, but only Petra Klingler, Akiyo Noguchi and Megan Mascarenas did so on their first attempts. With many Athletes tied at two Tops apiece, the medal distribution came down to W4. The crowd erupted when Klingler powered through the crux and lunged for the concluding jug. She hugged her coach with full eyes, having earned a spot on the podium. That place turned into first place when Noguchi could not Top W4, but the veteran Japanese Athlete’s effort to reach bonus still bumped Mascarenas out of third. Nonaka made it two medals for Japan with the other Top on W4.

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Adam OndraAdam Ondra

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Alex Honnold (5.12)Alex Honnold (5.12) Borneo – by Jimmy Chin

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'Resurrection' - Kat'Resurrection' - Katie Lambert - Utah

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Bouldering - f2a4ec3a44623236376b7cf1b19b5470 - 2016-09-21-09-09-50

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Adam Ondra, the double World Champion from 2014, shares his thoughts on the World Championship in Paris, where he was #1 in Lead and #2 in Boulder. "Additionally, there is finally one Instagram account which is official and truly mine." - My overall feeling from Paris is for sure like a dream. I think the whole 2016 season just worked out perfectly in order to be 100% prepared for Paris. Even though I have been focusing on my outdoor projects, I have been in the strict training regime in between the trips and thus trained indoors a lot anyways, especially in the spring season when I was finishing university. And just those few weeks before Paris, I could transform all the training into the plastic - like being used to the PU holds and style of WC routes and boulders. Every day before Paris my confidence was growing and the last training in Innsbruck was extremely satisfying. Being in Paris, I felt strong and confident every single round and that is obviously incredibly important in order to stay calm relaxed, yet motivated. In bouldering finals, I was slightly disappointed also because I felt so good in the previous rounds and I knew I did not make my best, but of course 2nd place itself is great. So disappointment was mainly about my own performance. It is completely possible that if more big names had made to the finals, I would not have been 2nd. But that is the game. I just think that for semifinals and finals of World Championships, the style of setting could have been more diverse. The boulders were mainly technical and feet were smears. It was not necessarily bad for me, I actually like technical problems, but in my opinion, the World Champion should be decided on wider range of problems. But it was bit of a problem of the bouldering wall, which was bit too much vertical/slabby, so the routesetter must have had hard time to set more diverse problems. Lead was just a fairy-tale story. I was a little afraid that I would be a little tired, climbing 5 days in a row, but it did not really affect that much. I think I just got so fit due to the PUC training. I felt a little tired on the warm up, but as soon as I started climbing in the final route, I just felt great. The route was very nice to climb, with different sections and making that final dyno and enjoying the crowd going crazy just before making the easy topout - it was a lifetime experience... Unforgettable... (c) Eddie Fowke catching the moment once again.

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