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8A+ by Mina Leslie-Wujastyk in Grampians

Alex Honnold on theAlex Honnold on the west face of Castleton Photo: @bigupclimbing

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Climb - 98cf27a20d1873fd1b36f50a27e12903 - 2016-09-23-11-26-42

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Do ropes need to resDo ropes need to rest between falls?

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Dan Beall The Process Bishop Bouldering

On playing the social media/sponsor game, his motivations, and climbing in the Rocklands…

**This episode is sponsored by Joshua Tree Skin Care, Power Company Climbing, and Gnarly Nutrition. Support this podcast by entering “chalktalk” at checkout for up to 20% off you next order!**

Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes!

 

Show Notes for episode with Dan Beall:

  • Dan’s origin story with climbing (3:22)
  • What drew him to Bishop, a place where he’s built his reputation (8:46)
  • Realities of wooing sponsors, social media, and trying to remain genuine (12:12)
  • The return on investment for companies sponsoring athletes (19:00)
  • Rocklands (24:49)
  • Managing injuries and trying to keep forward progression (26:42)
  • With so much climbing in the states, why spend the money to travel to Africa (28:38)
  • The goals Dan set for himself heading out to the Rocklands (31:13)
  • This season’s tick list, “one unique double-digit climb per day in Africa (33:48)
  • What he didn’t expect (36:20)
  • Dan’s near-future efforts, dreams, and ambitions (hint: finishing up ‘The Process’ (V16) is one of them) (44:12)

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Dan Beall BishopDan Beall The Process Bouldering BishopEp.60 w/ Dan Beall “Dinner with Dan in the Rocklands”

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What’s the heaviest piece of gear on your rack? Is it the #6 cam that some guy on Mountain Project swears you’ll need to protect the crux? No. Is it the liter of water that your partner surreptitiously clipped to the back of your harness? No. Is it your pet cat that you just couldn’t leave at home for the day? No. The heaviest single piece of gear on your rack is always your rope.

Gear You Ought to Know: A Review of DMM’s Revolver CarabinerMoja Gear does not endorse forcing animals to climb with you.

Even the lightest single rope on the market, the Beal Opera 8.5mm, weighs over six pounds. That’s the equivalent of five #6 cams, and if you’re carrying that many wide cams, the weight of your rope is much less of a concern than the heinous off-width you’re about to climb! For the rest of us mortals, the rope is a constant burden and the higher you climb, the heavier it gets.

Screen Shot 2016-09-20 at 1.08.48 PM

At 8.5 mm and 48 g/m, the Opera is the lightest single rated rope on the market.

On long or wandering pitches, rope drag complicates the situation; even the Beal Opera will feel heavier than an anchor after 60 meters of meandering climbing. Thankfully, DMM has a brilliant solution to the ever-present problem of rope drag: the Revolver carabiner.

 

What is the DMM Revolver?

DMM’s Revolver carabiner incorporates an integrated pulley into the apex (rope end) of the carabiner. Unlike traditional carabiners, where the rope slides over a fixed bearing surface, the Revolver guides the rope over a near friction-less pulley. This reduces friction by upwards of 40%, according to DMM.

Gear You Ought to Know: A Review of DMM’s Revolver Carabiner

Introducing Revolvers at key changes of direction on a pitch can mean the difference between lazily pulling slack up at the belay station and heaving the rope up with all of your weight.

 

Uses of the Revolver

While the Revolver was designed specifically to mitigate rope drag, it’s use as a pulley cannot be understated. Even on long pitches without significant rope drag, pulling up slack at a belay station can be exhausting. By clipping the rope through a revolver on the anchor, a climber can use their weight to pull down, instead of pulling up.

Gear You Ought to Know: A Review of DMM’s Revolver Carabiner
Gear You Ought to Know: A Review of DMM’s Revolver Carabiner

The Revolver shines in its ability to serve multiple functions. In addition to preventing gnarly rope drag, it augments a basic self-rescue kit. It can be used in place of a normal carabiner when constructing a 3:1 haul system to pull up a stuck partner. The Revolver can also be used to jug a rope “Froggy Style”, once again replacing a traditional carabiner with the benefits of a pulley, thereby making a more efficient system.

 

Putting the Revolver to use

The Revolver has a tendency to flip when attached to a shoulder length sling, putting the pulley on the sling side, and rendering it useless. For this reason, it is best to keep the Revolver attached to a quickdraw. It may seem counter-intuitive, but the friction reduction from the pulley far outweighs the lack of extension. In addition, keeping a free Revolver on the harness, along with a Hollow Block prusik, will allow a climber to perform most basic self-rescue techniques with ease, without the added weight of carrying a dedicated pulley and ascender.

Gear You Ought to Know: A Review of DMM’s Revolver Carabiner

The Revolver is a wonderful piece of gear when used appropriately. However, there are some important situations in which it should not be used. DMM recommends against using the Revolver for a top rope anchor, as a prolonged buildup of heat can damage the pulley. Additionally, friction at the anchor of a top rope system is beneficial, requiring less force to be used to catch a falling climber. The Revolver should not be clipped into bolts or pieces of protection. Finally, loads of 11 kN or higher can damage the integrated pulley. These forces are uncommon is most climbing scenarios, but a serious lead fall may result in damage to the pulley. Inspect your gear regularly and after big falls.

Gear You Ought to Know: A Review of DMM’s Revolver CarabinerIf your leads look like this, you’re going to need a lot of Revolvers.

 

Community input

The Revolver is rated 4.1 out of five stars or higher on Amazon.comBackcountry.com, and REI.com. It is important to note that most critical reviews come from those who replaced dedicated pulleys with Revolvers. While the Revolver is much more efficient than using a carabiner, it is not as efficient as a dedicated pulley. If you plan on hauling a pack or need a dedicated rope rescue system, then a traditional pulley will be much more useful. Reviewers who implemented the Revolver for rope drag reduction and efficient self-rescue had much better things to say about the carabiner. One reviewer recounts his experience:

I have one of these and reserve it for placements where the rope has a change in direction that might add extra rope drag. I also use it on the first placement if the belayer is not right under me. The third place I use it is for the locking gate below a run-out where I wander back and forth above the placement. It’s definitely a confidence booster.

Renowned climbing writer Andrew Bisharat called the Revolver

One of the more underrated climbing inventions of recent times.

 

Embracing efficiency

The Revolver is available as a wiregate, screwgate, and autolocker. My recommendation is to carry one wiregate Revolver on the rope end of a quickdraw and one screwgate Revolver on your harness. The screwgate is only marginally heavier than the wiregate, weighing in at 64g and 51g respectively. The screwgate can often be found on sale for the same price as the wiregate. Those concerned about adding weight should consider replacing one of their traditional lockers with a locking Revolver; the Revolver can perform most functions of a traditional locking carabiner, with the added benefit of its built in pulley.

Safety and efficiency are the hallmarks of the DMM Revolver. It absolutely shines on wandering routes, but its benefits are far reaching. Once you’ve used a Revolver on a meandering pitch, and climbed while whistling and listening to the birds rather than battling the rope, you’ll never want to leave the ground without it.

Wiregate Revolver

wiregate

 

Screwgate Revolver

Screwgate

 

Autolocking Revolver

Quicklock

 

Gear You Ought to Know is a series that showcases underrated, underappreciated, or just plain innovative gear in a discussion-based format. If there’s a piece of gear you’d like featured, let us know.

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The post Gear You Ought to Know: A Review of DMM’s Revolver Carabiner appeared first on Moja Gear.

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Nora Grosse Photo: ANora Grosse Photo: Alex Germanovych

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Steph Davis... EnougSteph Davis... Enough said.

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Mechanically assisted belay devices are the norm in today’s sport climbing world. In theory, they are safer than passive belay devices and also much more user friendly. Just try and think about belaying your partner while they quest up their […]

The post Trango Vergo Belay Device Review appeared first on Training for Rock Climbing - TrainingBeta.

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Zembrocal, l'ouvertuZembrocal, l'ouverture de cette grande voie extrême, à l'île de la Réunion

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igersiceland: Kirkjufell from the side Photo by @pawelpawelak ...

igersiceland:

Kirkjufell from the side

Photo by @pawelpawelak (at Kirkjufell)

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Haha it isn’t too bad

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So many different exercises, I’m always changing them up.  Pistol squats, Turkish get ups, dips, assisted muscle ups, push-ups, all types of pull-ups, dead lifts, kettle bell swings, etc.  The list goes on and on ;)

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News.gtp.gr comes with the very sad news that Ryan Air will stop their flights to Kos next year. Already this year they stopped several flights and it is said that there are some 20 % less climbers on the island.

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I literally have no idea haha

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Unfortunately not

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Mina Leslie-Wujastyk has done Silver Platter 8A+ in Grampians. "Very satisfying as a last day send! In between rain showers, being keen paid off!"Here is her blog report about her two months trip, including also sending Punks in the Gym 8b+, with David Mason who took the picture on, So you think you can dance 8A.

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Ryuichi Murai has done his fourth 8C this year by Spray of Lights in Rocklands. "I managed to climb this king line after 4days working. Extreme smearing made me excited!!" During the last two weeks he has sent eight Boulders graded 8B and harder and he is #2 in the 8a ranking game. Check out his Facebook account with many short Instagram videos.

Read more https://www.8a.nu/

Alex Johnson and Kati Hetrick - Exploring ThailandAlex Johnson and Kati Hetrick - Exploring ThailandAlex Johnson and Kati Hetrick - Exploring ThailandAlex Johnson and Kati Hetrick - Exploring ThailandAlex Johnson and Kati Hetrick - Exploring Thailand

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Yep

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How do I even begin?
Hi! My name is Cheyenne. I am a 22 year old, outdoors enthusiastic nomad.

You are an incredible inspiration to me. I started climbing only about two years ago, but instantly, it sparked an evergrowing passion in me. I instantly read up on all things climbing, and I found you. Seeing a woman able to, not just do, but excel, at climbing, a male dominant sport it seemed to me at the time, fired up my motivation. Thank you eternally for that!

I actually lived in Moab this summer working for NAVTEC as a guide in whitewater and canyoneering. My ultimate motivator for moving there was for the climbing. Sadly, however, my schedule was crazy and I only climbed there once. Moab did re-light a fire in me, though. Among climbing, through-hiking has been an endeavour of mine. I came up with the crazy idea of through-hiking South America. It will be a wild adventure, and I hope I can make it to the end!

In all this, I have a curious thought. I don’t know if you’re experienced in through-hiking at all… but how possible, would you say, would it be to combine climbing with through-hiking? Climbing gear is decently heavy, especially considering through-through-hiking over 6,000 miles for about a year and a half… but I just can’t not climb!

Anyway, even if you don’t have time to respond, I just want to say thank you. I will always be inspired by you; Even through the most difficult times in life, climbing will always be there to clear the mind and rebuild.

I send best wishes to your future experiences and endeavours!
Stay stellar,
Cheyenne

Hi Cheyenne,
I agree, climbing gear can get heavy, and if you’re through hiking light is right. You’ll have to decide what makes sense, because it is a sacrifice either way–whether you carry some climbing gear and have lots of extra weight all the time, or you don’t bring any and then wish you could have climbed. I have a few suggestions for gear that will help with weight savings, and maybe with a few key items you could lose some weight from your main kit and then justify some minimalistic climbing gear.

I would suggest you think about carrying only personal climbing gear, since you would need a partner also if you want to climb routes. If you do connect with someone who wants to climb, hopefully they are not through hiking and they have a rope and gear, and you would just need your own things. I’d go for the lightest harness and shoes possible, and my recommendations are the Mammut Zephira Harness and Evolv Elektras or Luchadors (synthetic shoes are lighter than leather). I’d also choose the Basic chalkbag, and just use the little black string it comes with instead of a bigger chalkbag belt. If you’re doing a helmet, the Mammut Wall Rider is super light. You could even go without the harness, chalkbag and helmet, as these would be easier to borrow from someone than shoes. This would be the most minimalist possible gear list for you to be able to go bouldering on your own and connect up with someone else to climb, as long as they have a rope, gear and belay device. If you feel like you ought to have your own rap/belay device too, I’d recommend a simple 8, because it is the lightest weight option, and the lightest possible locker. I’d probably take a chance on not bringing a belay device though, again on the theory that if you are going to climb routes it will be with someone else and they will hopefully have at least an extra locker that you can use with a Munter hitch.

If you do want to prioritize some climbing gear, I would take a very hard look at the weight of your other gear too, from the pack itself to your cooking and camping gear. If you happen to be a small person, that helps because all of your clothes are smaller. With packs, there is always a tradeoff between weight and suspension (comfort). If you think you can be ultraminimalist with what you will be carrying, I’d recommend the Osprey Tempest 40. If you think you’ll need more room, or if your total weight is going to be more than 35 pounds, I’d suggest the Exos 58 (I love this pack, it’s super light and comfortable).

Another major consideration for a South America trip is your stove. My ultimate lightweight setup is the MSR Microrocket and Titan teakettle. But you may have to go with a slightly heavier stove if you’re planning to travel all the way through South America, because you might be limited with the fuel you can find. In Chile and Argentina, I’ve had to use purple gasoline out of a gas pump, and I’ve also sometimes found pure white gas and fuel cartridges. You might want to try to research fuel availability, but I suspect if you’re in more remote parts of South America you won’t be able to find the cartridges or white gas. If you want to be able to use any fuel you find, you will have to go heavier on stove with the XGK because it can burn pretty much anything, even terrible gas out of a gas pump (you will have to clean it all the time if you have to burn that stuff). If you think you’ll be able to find good white gas, then you could save some weight with the Whisperlite.

I also thoroughly recommend the Black Diamond Carbon Z-poles, they are worth their very little weight and size, especially if you’re going to add any more to your pack with some climbing gear.

Good luck with your adventure!!
Steph

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No haha

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Thank you so much!

My favorite thing about France was seeing The Catacombs, they were so eerie!!!!

Have a great week!

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Probably 15-20% of the time.  It’s all about learning :)

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I think it would be cool to be involved in a charity, especially an animal shelter or something like that :)

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