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BD Bootcamp Ladies Edition

chalky-hands: Dog days in Hueco Tanks, TX

chalky-hands:

Dog days in Hueco Tanks, TX

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Chalkboard paint forChalkboard paint for path/instructions // home climbing wall at amazing retreat in Japan - links to source!

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chalk-up-blog: Finals, Jain KimIFSC Bouldering World Cup at the...

chalk-up-blog:

Finals, Jain Kim
IFSC Bouldering World Cup at the Teva Mountain Games (2011) 
All rights reserved by Petzl sport 


 

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Chahkooh Canyon

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RI09-JV-0185

I’ve never considered any subject to be automatically excused from a healthy dose of critical examination. Even subjects as vain as rock climbing are meaningful enough to invite deep analysis.

Over the last 15 years that I’ve been covering climbing, a lot has happened and some things have changed. Perhaps the most profound difference that I can identify has been in regards to how we communicate and share ideas with each other. One thing that hasn’t changed is that climbers are an opinionated and surly lot—something I certainly appreciate and find endlessly interesting.

Social media, however, has played a large role in exacerbating some of these latent proclivities, and in some ways, it has caused the extinction of healthy disagreement in our community—though, I’m sure, other factors are to blame.

The era of writing letters to the editor of a magazine are long gone. So is our desire to seek out face-to-face conversations with folks with whom we disagree.

Now we wage our ideological and pseudo-intellectual battles online, where it’s easy to be brave—not just in one place, either, but absolutely everywhere. People seem content to while away entire afternoons to arguing in the comment fields on multiple blogs, forums, and on dozens of different Facebook pages, where the same fundamental arguments about the same exact issues take on slightly different flavors in terms of the particular congregation of commenters.

From what I can tell, the result of waging war on so many digital fronts all at once is taking a toll. Primarily, it’s exhausting. But it has also resulted in closing our minds, shutting out people whose opinions we disagree with, and pushing us further and further into the most narrow and uncompromising version of our own ideas and beliefs.

(And if this is happening in climbing, it’s 100 times worse in our political discourse.)

Pretty soon, the big picture gets lost to a nasty type of internecine digital argumentation of ideas among a group of people who, by and large, all share the exact same values and desires in their hearts.

I witnessed some of this dynamic take place last week following the publication of Davita Gurian’s controversial op-ed on this website (though, it should be said, there were also many productive, congenial conversations that took place online, as well as in person).

My overall sense is that many people are weary of this topic, but I do want to offer a few follow-up observations since, perhaps, I’m in the unique position to have seen a majority of the feedback, both the really positive reviews as well as the really negative ones.

My first observation is that readers’ response to and characterization of Davita’s story defies generalization. About half of readers interpreted Davita’s essay as a positive message of inclusivity, and a step toward creating more gender equality in our sport—though their reasons for this interpretation were quite varied. The other half disagreed with this positive interpretation, and instead saw her message as undermining a movement toward more equality in our sport—likewise, the reasons cited for this interpretation were also quite varied. Most interestingly, a reader’s gender, age, or climbing experience seemed to have no bearing whatsoever on the opinions expressed.

My second observation is how much core common ground there is among climbers on this topic. If you read between the lines, you will see that a near majority of climbers believe that sexism exists in society and therefore exists to some degree in climbing as well; that creating gender equality in our sport is a good thing; that we all benefit when there are more opportunities for female perspectives in climbing media; and that women climbers are kicking ass, and that the performance gap found in most other sports is, incredibly, much, much smaller in rock climbing.

My third observation is that much of the disagreement over this topic is primarily one of semantics. No one denies that there are examples of climbers behaving badly/inappropriately to each, nor does anyone deny that gender plays a role in group dynamics. The debate, it seems to me, is primarily over what do we call these examples, and who gets to decide what they are called?

When I say that this is an issue of semantics, I’m certainly not trying to belittle the significance of the debate, nor am I trying to undermine the very real emotions and experiences of those who’ve been affected. My point is that, clearly, words matter, as is argued in this great response. And so, so much of this discussion is simply about whether the use of loaded, complicated terms like “sexism” are appropriate when discussing certain climbing situations, climbing media, and even climbers themselves.

By and large, I see this debate as a semantical question of whether the application of some of these loaded terms is useful, necessary, and just—or is it, perhaps, unfair at best, damaging at worst?

My fourth observation is that bringing in abstract academic theories and boundless social/historical contexts can be interesting, enlightening, and beneficial. But too often these erudite tangents become obtuse hammers used to try to squash online foes. The result is that conversation can quickly get derailed and lost in hypothetical possibilities.

In other words, it can be derailed from a conversation that is specific to climbing, to one that is broadly about social justice. Certainly, there is a Venn diagram between these two topics. It’s just that so much of the conversation diverges from the original topic and instead becomes a disagreement over where the Venn diagram’s intersections are located.

Speaking of greater contexts … holy hell, Davita’s article couldn’t have run during a more inopportune moment in America as, last week, we witnessed the sickening inauguration of a sex offender and malignant narcissist who seems hellbent on turning the clock back a hundred years. As a publisher, the decision to run Davita’s story, and with such an arguably inflammatory headline, was certainly bad timing on my part—although I do hope that most climbers were able to ingest Davita’s essay on its own merit.

Like I said at the start of this post, I’ve never considered any subject to be too sensitive for deep critical analysis. More than anything, I’m really happy to have provided a young woman with a forum to voice her opinion about a much-debated topic in climbing. As a guy who has worked in climbing media for a long time, I have always believed it’s important to do what I can to encourage and amplify more female voices in our discourse.

That said, in the spirit of this historic weekend—in which millions of amazing women marched in protest of our vile and sexist president …

In the spirit of our own progressive climbing community, which I truly believe to be more united about the important stuff in regards to gender equality in climbing than I think some of the recent, heated debates may suggest ….

And in the spirit of simply putting up a positive post about women on Evening Sends in light of the heated online debates, I wanted to give a big shout out and thank you to all the women who have been very influential and inspiring to me personally.

There are dozens more, but these climbers are ones who, for one reason or another, stand out to me on this weekend of women’s empowerment.

Davita

Davita Gurian First, I should probably thank Davita—for her courage as a writer in taking on such a tough and important issue. I’ve never met her, but I feel like I’ve gotten to know her over the course of the last two months as she sent me unsolicited drafts of her essay and asked for casual feedback. It was a cool experience for me to see a relatively novice writer take on such a complex topic, remove her ego from the equation, and really pour her heart and soul into crafting a strong essay. Sharing her point of view took a lot of courage, and it was rewarded by all the men and women who found her message to be positive, and even by those whom it challenged (in a good way) to clarify and potentially even re-think their own positions on this topic. I didn’t originally foresee her story appearing on Evening Sends, but I’m happy it did. More than anything, I’m happy to have made a new friend in the process.

 

Celebrating Women and Climbing

Emily Harrington. Photo: Tara Kerzner. Instagram / Website.

Emily

Thank you, Emily, for being one of the most determined women I’ve ever met. I first met Emily in Rifle, when she was a teenager being belayed by her father. I remember seeing the occasional tears that she shed during those years—and, more importantly, how little they seemed to deter her from stopping until she sent. She became the first woman to climb a 5.14a in that canyon, first with the 7 P.M. Show and, later, Zulu. Emily and I have since been on trips around the world together—Venezuela, China, Greece, Spain—and she’s one of the best, funniest, and most fun travel companions you could ever ask for. Lately, what’s been so impressive to me is to watch how Emily’s strength of character has transferred over, from comp and sport climbing to big-wall free climbing, big-mountain skiing, and high-altitude mountaineering. Emily’s achievements and fierce brand of attacking impossible challenges remind me that it’s OK to chase big goals and show emotion when you fail, just so long as you are determined to succeed.

 

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Wendy on EuroTrash (5.13b), Rifle.

Wendy

My friend Wendy has been one of my favorite climbing, training, and slam-dancing partners. She is always stoked to go crush, whether that’s crush rocks or crush a bunch of basic bitches on the dance floor who are dropping too many elbows in her direction. She’s easily one of the strongest (physically) people I’ve ever met. “Muscles on women are attractive!” she often hollers, to no one in particular. It’s a point of view I most certainly agree with.

 

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Lindsey

My friend Lindsey is a super model by trade, and a rock climber by passion. She’s simultaneously salty and sweet, and she is a naturally gifted and fearless rock climber whose achievements in this sport belie the number of years she’s been practicing it. One of the things that I appreciate most about Lindsey is how her approach has opened my eyes to seeing how the worlds of high fashion and rock climbing can be compatible pursuits—something I know I never would’ve caught myself saying ten years ago.

 

Celebrating Women and Climbing

Beth Rodden, Meltdown (5.14c), FA. Photo: Corey Rich

Beth

Beth is one of the most important and influential female rock climbers of my generation. I occasionally wonder to what degree her legacy was partially, if very much unintentionally, overshadowed by her longtime partner, Tommy. She’s a legend who remains a superlative testament to what women can achieve in climbing. The fact that she’s become a very close friend and confidant in recent years has felt like a gift. To see someone who is so strong and yet sometimes also struggles with sharing her fears is something I appreciate. She teaches me that there’s nuance in life, and it’s worth delving in to try to understand the whole story.

 

Kate McGinnis

Kate

Back in the day, Kate would come home from a multi-day shift as a neonatal nurse, sleep for a few hours, and then show up at some national climbing competition and absolutely crush the rest of the field, which was usually half her age. She’s one of the most obscenely intelligent and strong-willed people I’ve ever met. But the thing I think I appreciate most about Kate is her ability to chase down climbing goals, professional goals, and family goals all at once. It’s not always smooth. It’s not always pretty. But striving to bring all of these things together is actually what’s most important. Years ago, Jen and I spent a week bouldering with Kate, her husband, and their two young daughters—carrying the kids around by wedging them in the folds of our crashpads. It was one of those moments that made realize that I wanted a family one day, too. The fact that Jen and I and our daughter, Piper, got to spend a week climbing with Kate and her family in the Red River Gorge last year brought all of those feelings back full circle.

 

Celebrating Women and Climbing

Steph Davis free-soloing “Jah-man” (5.10) on the Sister Superior Tower in Castle Valley Utah. Photo: Keith Ladzinski

Steph

Steph is the bravest person I know. There’s not even a close second. The boldness to be a free soloist and a wingsuit BASE jumper is one thing, but that’s not what I’m talking about. I’m referring to Steph’s courage to live a life full of clarity, freedom, and of her own design. Having a close friend like Steph who thinks about life with as much precision and critical analysis leaves me feeling a kind of gratitude that I don’t even know how to begin repaying. The inspiration to maximize freedom and chase passion as fearlessly as Steph is something I think about daily.

 

Colette

Colette

Colette is one of the first climbers I ever met, and we’ve been friends ever since. In all the years I’ve known Colette, I’ve literally never heard her say a bad thing about anyone else. In fact every time I go off on one of my insane, overblown rants, she’s always been someone who brings me back down to earth and insists on forcing me to see the good in people. Plus, she’s a damn good rock climber, and one of the most gifted and creative photographers I know.

 

Celebrating Women and Climbing

Sasha in South Africa. Photo: Keith Ladzinski

Sasha

The first time I got to climb with Sasha, it was on some multi-pitch 5.12 in China. I think it might have been Sasha’s first time ever climbing a multi-pitch route, too. Since then, Sasha has become an unstoppable force in climbing. Her social-media presence might actually have its own gravitational field. But deep down, beyond all of that superficial stuff, I know that Sasha’s heart is always in the right place in terms of her love for climbing and our community. I think there are many people who, were they ever to find themselves in Sasha’s position, would be too afraid to use their platforms to speak out about issues that might be deemed too political or controversial. To Sasha’s credit, she has routinely used her celebrity to advance important political, environmental, and social issues in America. That’s not just courage—that’s responsibility.

 

RI09-JV-0185

Jen

Of course, I wouldn’t think of compiling this list of women without naming the person with whom I’ve climbed the most over the last 10 years, who is my best friend, my favorite climbing partner ever, and my biggest inspiration. The first time I met Jen, she had already climbed a bunch of 5.13d’s and I don’t think I’d even climbed one 5.13a—whatever male ego I might have had back then, had to be quickly shelved if I were ever to going to partner up with this impressive woman.

Celebrating Women and Climbing

Jen on Stockboy’s Revenge (5.14b), Rifle.

She mentored me as a climber while simultaneously supporting and respecting me as an equal. I tried to return that respect and support in every way I could. I belayed her when she climbed her first 5.14a, and later, her first 5.14b (becoming the first woman to reach that grade in Rifle)—all while holding down a full-time job. I’ve never met anyone else whose incredible natural talents and self-confidence are balanced by such humility. I’ve never met anyone else who is so respectful of others. And I’ve never met anyone else who quite makes me laugh and smile as frequently and fully as Jen does. And all those years of working together as climbing partners, and giving each other what we need, are all coming full circle as we enter this new phase of being parents together. Love you, babe!

OK, hope this post wasn’t too cheesy—actually, I’m sure it was, but fuck it. Given the spirit of this historic weekend, I wanted to make sure to give a shout out to all of these climbing partners who have made me a better climber and a better person. Thank you to these women, and to many others.

The post Celebrating Women and Climbing appeared first on Evening Sends.

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Caydie McCumber climCaydie McCumber climbing Birthday Direct in the Buttermilks wearing a Patagucci puffy jacket. ::Photo by Spenser Tang-Smith::

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Caturday ❤

Caturday ❤

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Castle Valley ClimbiCastle Valley Climbing and Bouldering in HD

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Castle Hill in New ZCastle Hill in New Zealand is possibly the most scenic bouldering in the world. Pro climber Chris Sierzant sends it on an unknown boulder problem.

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Depending on who you talk to, activities like running and cycling are either great forms of climbing cross training, a waste of time from a climbing perspective, or, at worst, detrimental to climbing performance.  Because this training issue seems to […]

The post Cardio for Climbing – Is it Worth It? appeared first on Training for Rock Climbing - TrainingBeta.

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Description: 

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canipel: Drei zinnen. | Shot By Canipel Instagram

canipel:

Drei zinnen. | Shot By Canipel & Instagram

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CaliforniaWoke up to the sun creeping over the canyon rim.  

California

Woke up to the sun creeping over the canyon rim.  

 

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Scott Channing Hall — California DreamingInstall Theme
California Dreaming
 

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Scott Channing Hall — CaliforniaInstall Theme
California
 

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Cabo negro styleCabo negro style

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Hayden Carpenter and Tom Bohanon recently repeated an obscure ice climb on the south side of Mt Sopris. Given a brief mention in Jack Robert’s ice guide, Bulldog Creek Walk is described as being 100 meters of WI 4. What they found was seven pitches of ice in a remote setting that makes for one of the more committing multipitch ice lines in the Crystal River Valley. A detailed description follows for those who think everything else in Redstone is too close to the road. All photos and text courtesy of Hayden Carpenter & Tom Bohanon.

Bulldog Creek Dog Walk (IV WI 4+)

Hayden Carpenter on pitch 4, Bulldog Creek Walk, Mt Sopris, CO.

Bulldog Creek Dog Walk was discovered by Lou Dawson and Chris Landry in the 70s. Their climb is described in Jack Robert’s guide as WI4, II, 100 meters, so it’s likely they may not have gone as far as we did, and it’s possible that there is even more ice further up the creek bed.

Approach: Park at the gate on Avalanche Creek road (closed in winter), and ski or hike up the road until just before it crosses Bulldog Creek. Take the old mining road on the left and follow it east along the north side Bulldog Creek until it dead ends at the collapsed miners’ cabin. If you’re on skis, it is easier to leave them here.

Cross the creek just upstream from the cabin and pick up a faint trail/old mining road (read: mostly bushwhacking) heading upstream (east) on the south side. Follow the trail until you can see the first pitch of the ice flow (north branch of creek, where it splits), which is on the north side of Bulldog Creek. Descend the steep river bank after passing an open mine shaft (provides good shelter to gear up/de-gear in bad weather), and cross river again to the base of the climb.

Expect around 2 hours 30 minutes for the approach, depending on snowpack.

Description: The climb follows a river gorge and consists of five main ice flows (climbed in five to seven roped pitches), separated by stretches of river walking and ice bouldering over short steps. A 70 meter rope is useful. Each flow has its own character, from wild ice mushrooms to steep WI4. The final “glory” flow (about 80-90 meters) is the crux of route and the longest and most sustained of the five, at WI 4+. We did the climb in 7 pitches, 5 of which were 50-70 meters and 2 that were 20-30 meters

The gorge system branches in a few locations, and there are at least one or two side ice flows that enter the main river, but stick to the main drainage to get to the top.

The climb is spring fed, and receives little direct sunlight, so it’s a good early season bet. Avalanche danger seems pretty low, as the gully winds around a lot, and the rim is mostly mature trees.

A word of caution: this climb is big and remote. Expect a full day, even with a pre-dawn start. You’ll likely start and finish in the dark.

Pitch 1

Pitch 1

Pitch 2

Pitch 2

Pitch 3

Pitch 3

Pitch 4

Pitch 4

Pitches 5 & 6

Pitches 5 & 6

Gear: Ice screws, a few small cams, V-thread kit, 15 meters of rappel cord for the last rappel (what we left will not survive more than one season)

Descent: Rap the main flows and down climb the shorter sections.

From the top of the final pitch, it’s possible to hike up the ridge to the west and follow the scree slide down to where it cliffs out, and make a single rappel from a solid tree, followed by a little down climbing and hiking back to river, to avoid making a V-thread on the final ice flow. This method probably isn’t any faster, but it’s another option.

Once below the top flow, most rappels can be done off trees near the top of each major flow. Some trees require a little scrambling to reach. For the final rap to the base of the climb, sling the large boulder in the middle of the river (a single, 70-meter rope just reaches).

It takes seven or eight rappels to descend.

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Brusha brusha brusha Photo: Sendaholic

Brusha brusha brusha

Photo: Sendaholic

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Adventure Photographer Kylie Fly“My sisters and I did everything together,” says Fly of her identical triplet siblings. Photo by Kylie Fly.

This post was originally written for and published by GrindTV.com.

Kylie Fly didn’t grow up in one of those families that embarks on far-flung vacations and exotic cruises during Christmas break. With six kids in the brood (three brothers, two triplet sisters), the Flys spend most of their family time outdoors in their native Idaho.

“There was a lot of noise, a lot of competition for attention, a lot of scrappiness and thriftiness, a lot of humans to feed,” she explains. “So we spent a lot of time camping and going on little fishing trips. With three older brothers, [my sisters and I] did what they did. If they skied, we skied. If they skated, we skated.”

It wasn’t until Fly went off to college that she realized her trips could involve plane tickets and passports.

Adventure Photographer Kylie FlyKylie Fly spent years traveling to countries all over the world and honing her craft. Photo by Kylie Fly.

“I went to school and discovered people leave the country and come back with cool bracelets and do things,” the 28-year-old laughs. “So I started researching and there was an opportunity to go to China to teach English. I was terrified to do that, but it was the best decision I ever made.”

Her six-month stint abroad also served as a launch pad for a new career in—and passion for—photography.

“I was out and about and I spotted this dude washing his shoes in a river,” Fly explains. “I remember looking at him and taking his picture. It was something I’d never seen before, this really candid, raw moment. I knew I wanted to capture stuff like that, people living their lives so differently than mine, and sharing those images with others.”

Adventure Photographer Kylie FlyDeciding when to shoot and when to be part of the action is part of the job description for Fly. Photo by Kylie Fly.

The course was set: Fly started traveling the world—often with her two identical sisters in tow— ticking off places like Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, Costa Rica, Peru, Ecuador, Haiti, Bali. After a while, her travel log starts to read like a geography textbook. These days she shoots primarily outdoor adventure images, most recently nabbing the head of photography position for the Wanderlust Festivals. But, as Fly admits herself, there’s a thin line between having an adventure, and simply documenting one. Here, she shares her tips for deciding when to shoot, and when to leave the camera in its bag.

Read the Group

Adventure Photographer Kylie FlyIf your group is receptive to being photographed, snap away. Photo by Kylie Fly.

If you’re climbing a mountain, I try to feel out the vibe of the group I’m with. If they get easily irritated by my shutter going off or me pulling my camera out all of the time, or if I’m interrupting the moment or breaking their concentration, I don’t like to impose those things on other people’s experiences. If the other people don’t care, I go nuts. For the most part, I try to be as unobtrusive as I can.

Candid Can Be Recreated

You can go on a trip with shots in mind, but if everything is forced and you’re creating moments, I don’t believe in that. I find myself looking for the candid moments— like if I see someone spin their wife near a campfire—and if I miss it maybe I’ll just say, “Hey can you do that again for me?” When someone climbs a rock and looks over the edge, it happens naturally but maybe I’ll ask them to turn a little to the left to catch the light. So shots don’t have to be super contrived, but you can make them better.

Budget Your Photos

Adventure Photographer Kylie FlyOn the go? Stop, take a series of photos, then get back to the action and don’t worry about documenting every single moment. Photo by Kylie Fly.

When I’m whizzing over single track on a mountain bike or climbing, I don’t want to worry about crushing my lens, but sometimes that’s the reality of my work. I have to pick and choose my moments. I observe and think, “Is this something I want to capture? Need to capture?” If it’s not, or it’s annoying to get my camera out, or I’m just not feeling it, then I don’t take the picture. I’ll aim to take 20 good shots of something and then put my camera away again. I want to be able to get the shots I have in my head, so I’ll make sure I get those at minimum then set my camera aside. I try to be selective about what part of the story I want to tell.

The post Adventure Photographer Kylie Fly appeared first on Dirtbag Darling.

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Andrea blows an ‘aloAndrea blows an ‘aloHAH’ to the camera on Daemon Flower (31), Muline, the Grampians. Lee Cossey

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Two summer’s ago for the first BD Bootcamp Black Diamond athletes Joe Kinder, Sam Elias, and Dan Mirsky committed to putting outdoor climbing on hold while they trained togethger in an effort to up their overall climbing level.  This time […]

The post BD Bootcamp Ladies Edition appeared first on Training for Rock Climbing - TrainingBeta.

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bearcamblog: “ Excitbearcamblog: “ Excited to share my @petzl_official video of @dawoods89 and @dave_graham_ getting reacquainted with hard sport climbing in Norway at the Flatanger Cave. Link in my profile! #climbing...

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Beta Hunter

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Butterflies❤️ #Sanuk @sanuk (at Butterfly Wonderland)

Butterflies❤️ #Sanuk @sanuk (at Butterfly Wonderland)

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Ciara Rinaudo on FelCiara Rinaudo on Feline, 5.11a | ROCK and ICE Magazine

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climb itclimb it

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Climbing Arizona. HClimbing Arizona. Have plenty of good sized tri-cams for this one.

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