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Magnus Midtbø has done Thor's Hammer 9a (+) after some 15 days of work on the 55 metre long upside-down monster in Flatanger. Magnus bolted it in 2011 and then Adam Ondra got the 9a+ FA. Later an easier sequence was found and Magnus has decided to say it is a very hard 9a like Ondra and Seb Bouin. (c) Matthew Moore McMahon "I went to Flatanger two times this summer for working on it. This trip I did it already on the fourth day. I still had the moves dialed from the summer and the friction was much better. This winter I plan to travel to Spain several times. We are just about to open a new climbing center in Oslo and that will take some time. What about competitions and the Olympics? No plan but most probably I will compete some more but just not now. Olympics within four years is absolutely one alternative. Even if I am not a fan of the format I think it is a good start.

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Kajsa Rosén, who has been in the Top-10 in three World Cups and onsighted an 8c, has done two 8cs in Gorges du Loup. (c) Anders Terlongo "I enjoyed my trip to Georges du Loup a lot. We spent most of our time at the Deverse sector, which offered overhanging routes on tufas and pockets. I like that the shade and wind makes it possible to climb even in summertime. However, what I liked the most about Georges du Loupe was the locals- they were all very kind and helpful! Next up is the Swedish championships and then also the Junior world championships in China. I've just set up a plan for the nearest goals ahead and I'm extremely psyched on doing some hard and structured training again!"

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One of the most ama

"One of the most amazing places," says Uptight Active co-founder of her climbing time in France's Verdon Gorge. Where's your favorite crag?

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#DefendersofFun is a look into the adventurous lives of Dirtbag Darling’s community of loyal readers—their gear, their stories, in their own words. Share your outdoor story on Instagram @DirtbagDarling #DefendersofFun.

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“I’m Gale Straub and I live in New Hampshire and I run She Explores, a podcast and lifestyle website for creative women who enjoy spending time outside.

Right now, my favorite aspect of She Explores is working on the podcast. It’s a lot of fun to create a story in audio form, and the best part is receiving voice memos from listeners and incorporating their points of view. I’m learning all the time and (hopefully) improving my audio editing skills.

I had the idea of a podcast in the back of my head for a while. I love listening to them—Reply All; Death, Sex, and Money; Dirtbag Diaries. I was intimidated by the idea of starting a podcast, but I did the research and found that I wouldn’t need too much equipment and the learning curve was steep but relatively quick. The biggest hurdle was recording and hearing my own voice. It turned out that fear was ungrounded.

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I’m embarrassed to say this, but the biggest unforeseen challenge of She Explores has been maintaining my own creative practice while curating and editing those of others. Lately, I’ve found myself a bit tapped and I need to gently remind myself that it’s okay to rest for a while. I’ve found the best way to draw the line between work and play is to turn everything off that plugs in. I really enjoy spending time at my parent’s cabin in Maine because there isn’t any cell pone service or Wi-Fi. I’ll be sad when it inevitably gets there!

Since moving back to New England, my boyfriend, Jon, and I spend a lot of time with our respective families. We lived on the road in a Sprinter van for about a year and both found that we missed lake time with family above all. I also really love playing cards. Jon and I keep an ongoing tally of cribbage games (I think I’m up by about 15 all the time) and we’ll play trump games with anyone who will sit down to a table with us: hearts, spades, high/low/jack, you name it.

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My mom always says my spirit animal is a mountain goat, which makes me laugh because they’re visually awkward but are hardy and can balance on pretty much anything. I ran track and cross country growing up and that endurance translates well to the trail. I’ve never been coordinated, but there is so much satisfaction in summiting a mountain. Coming from a rural area, there wasn’t a lot in the way of entertainment, but I grew to love the feeling of lacing up my boots at the trail head.

I just camped alone for the first time and I made so many mistakes. Because I knew I was only about four miles from the trailhead, I was laxer than I would have been on a longer backpacking trip. First, I forgot my snacks and breakfast in my car. I had dinner and plenty of water so I knew I wasn’t in danger, but I felt foolish and hungry by the end. Second, I didn’t know it was going to rain and I didn’t have a rain jacket. Luckily I had a thick trash bag to line my pack and my boots were grippy on the rocky terrain. On the plus side, I learned a lot about slowing down and giving myself time to prepare. Little good comes out of anxious, hurried behavior.

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Last September, I backpacked the Lost Coast of California with five friends. A defining moment for me was waking up the fourth day, just a mile from the end of the trail and not wanting it to end. I was excited for real food and cellphone service, but I knew I could keep going. It was an amazing feeling to carry my home on my back and look down the coast as far as I could see and know I would walk it all.

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I think the modern outdoorswoman is kind and generous. She listens and enjoys taking on new challenges even if she’s not going to be perfect. I think she knows that the key to a good life is staying open to beauty and acknowledging the small accomplishments in herself and others. I aspire to embody these characteristics, and I hope to succeed in doing when I can.”

–As told to Dirtbag Darling

The post #DefendersofFun: Gale Straub, She Explores Founder, Podcast Creator appeared first on Dirtbag Darling.

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'Road Warrior' (5.10'Road Warrior' (5.10 III) on Mt. Evans, CO. | www.woolx.com/

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. . ice climber . .. . ice climber . .

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AAC takeover Day1 byAAC takeover Day1 by Francois Lebeau Francois Lebeau Barbara Zangerl @barbarazangerl learning to crack climb in Indian Creek in 2014. Let's say she's a fast learner. Middle Crack 5.12- #aacgram by americanalpine

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actiniaria: Look Ma, no hands! Sedativa (7c?), Lapa de Seu...

actiniaria:

Look Ma, no hands!

Sedativa (7c?), Lapa de Seu Antão

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aleegoeseast: Liz ( @lizahaas ) belaying Ben Y on her last of...

aleegoeseast:

Liz ( @lizahaas ) belaying Ben Y on her last of the summer in Rifle :(. You will be missed!

#climbingphotography #Wildwomen #rockclimbing #Womenofrock #getoutstayout (at Rifle Mountain Park)

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Alex Puccio wins theAlex Puccio wins the Rock Master KO Boulder Contest Photo by © Giulio Malfer

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alpine-ardor: Post camp and pre-hike/ski cup of tea and...

alpine-ardor:

Post camp and pre-hike/ski cup of tea and breakfast on a beautiful June morning after the most beautiful sunrise I have ever seen with @kimzimma #iloveithere #iamfree #mountainsbeyondmountains #JUNESKIING #thisisthelife @arcteryx

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anearlymorningwalk: Hew-do’s new album “Bluebells,” dropping...

anearlymorningwalk:

Hew-do’s new album “Bluebells,” dropping Summer 2016 #hewieandfidobffs

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annaehrgott: Nole loading the boards

annaehrgott:

Nole loading the boards

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ArcoArco

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Featuring two years of impressive footage compiled by local developers themselves, this week’s Flick PickBackwoods Bouldering —gives us a peek at the incredible potential for bouldering in Southwest Montana.

The film showcases a number of recently developed areas surrounding Bozeman, including Gallatin Canyon, Hyalite Canyon, Madison River, and Yankee Jim Canyon. Prepare to be allured by this tempting display and vastness of quality rock still to be explored there.

Short on time or stuck in the office? Enjoy this shorter teaser below:

 


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The post Backwoods Bouldering — A Look at Climbing in Southwest Montana appeared first on Moja Gear.

Read more http://mojagear.com/bouldering/2016/10/07/backwoods-bouldering-featured-climbing-southwest-montana/

Ben Guigonnet with rBen Guigonnet with rock shoes and ice axes! On the crux rock pitch of the Gabarrou Silvy on the Sans Nom

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Bouldering - 8b442dd68abf97d7d7b28f2c3bd3cc59 - 2016-10-11-14-18-56

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Bouldering Trip USABouldering Trip USA

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burrmelange: Excellent evening/midnight bouldering session at...

burrmelange:

Excellent evening/midnight bouldering session at Big Rock yesterday. Here my friend Ben is enjoying the sunset light and “Brian’s Thin” crimps.

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I wish!

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cant-complain: Hang loose! ?New blog post up on my website...

cant-complain:

Hang loose!