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Girl Crush of the Month: Kyra Condie

Lighter.Smaller.Cheaper.Better.

www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Mad Rock Lifeguard front view
After dominating the market for 25 years, Petzl’s assisted-braking GriGri finally has a true rival: Mad Rock’s new Lifeguard belay device.
Many devices have come to challenge the GriGri, but the Lifeguard stands apart with one truly unique feature: it’s used exactly like a tube style/ATC belay device—there isn’t a new hand position to learn, no unusual technique to familiarize yourself with, and most importantly, no safety system that must be overridden to quickly feed out slack. If you can use an ATC, you already know how to use the Lifeguard.
View lowest prices: Mad Rock LifeguardView lowest prices: Petzl GriGri

What is the Lifeguard?

How does the magic happen?
The trick lies in the action of the assisted-braking cam. The Lifeguard’s cam requires more force to engage than other devices’ cams, allowing the rope to feed through easily while paying out slack, but locking down tight when the rope is weighted. The device is made entirely of hot forged aluminum, with the exception of the stainless steel rope bearing surfaces for increased durability. It may be small, and incredibly lightweight, but the Lifeguard is built to last.
www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Mad Rock Lifeguard Review

Performance review

I’ve put the Lifeguard to the test on everything from gym climbing and single-pitch craggingto multi-pitch trad. I’verappelled on one strand,refreshed mytop rope soloing skills, and takenmore falls than I can count using the clip-drop technique, all to best evaluate the Lifeguard.
www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Belaying with Mad Rock Lifeguard Let’s start with the most important aspect: while it’s essential to still use proper belay technique, the device catches falls effortlessly.
I’veused the Lifeguard myselfand handed it to belayers both new and experienced. It has caught all falls with ease, and it is especially confidence-inspiring in the hands of a new belayer due to its somewhat foolproof design. It feeds slack quickly for ropes up to about 10mm, but has a tendency to lock up while feeding slack on ropes larger than 10mm. Lowering, while not quite as smooth as a GriGri, is a breeze.
While top rope belayingor belaying a second from above, the cam does not bite as strongly as other devices. It locks up perfectly in the event of a fall, but when light tension is applied to the climber side of the rope, it has a tendency tolet slack creep through until the tension is gone.
The most obvious strength of the device is its size; you have to hold it yourself to see how unbelievably compact and lightweight it is. The Lifeguard is the lightest camming belay device on the market and a full ounce lighter than the GriGri. If you have considered making the switch to http://thatrockclimber.tumblr.com/post/144310451279, you should strongly consider the switch to thisultralight belay device.
www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Belay from above Mad Rock Lifeguard

Critiques

The Lifeguard excels as an all-around workhorse belay device. There are, however, situations in whichother devices may be preferred.
First, do not use the Lifeguard on thick ropes. The device is advertisedto function with ropes up to 11mm, though I’d suggest staying below 10mm when possible. If you plan on top roping exclusively, the GriGri may still be the best option (top ropers should consider the upcoming GriGri+ which features different modes for leading and top roping). Finally, the Lifeguard does not perform well when used as a top rope solo device.

Summary

Do alpine routes dance through your dreams? Are you a new climber looking for your first belay device? Do you value simplicity and safety in climbing gear?Mad Rock designed the Lifeguard for you. It is my new belay device of choice. Once you try it, you won’tgo back.
View lowest price: Mad Rock Lifeguard
www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Madrock Lifeguard
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Kyra Condie has been on our girl crush radar for a long time now, and watching her take 2nd (behind Alex Puccio) at last weekend’s Portland Boulder Rally totally made it official. With her quick and aggressive climbing style, this 20-year-old Minnesotan, hasmade a name for herself on the competition scene. Despite setbacks, like 10 […]
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