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12 First Ascents in the Poudre! Narrows Blocs

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#DefendersofFun is a look into the adventurous lives of Dirtbag Darling’s community of loyal readers—their gear, their stories, in their own words. Share your outdoor story on Instagram @DirtbagDarling #DefendersofFun.

“My name’s Sasha Cox and I run Trail Mavens, a business I started in 2014 designed to dropkick the biggest barriers to entry keeping women from getting outdoors.

I’m lucky enough to call San Francisco home. Shout out to having a rent-controlled apartment!

As an entrepreneur, I’m kind of always working. In the rare moments I’m not, you’re likely to find me on a run (a lifelong road runner, I’m just starting to explore trails, and loving it), watching or practicing improv with a group of alumni from my college improv group, or bingeing on Netflix shows.

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Trail Mavens brings together groups of dynamic women for camping and backpacking trips, and we provide all the gear, teach and hone your outdoor skills, and of course, introduce you to an awesome posse of ladies for you to adventure with in the future.

My long-term, big-picture goal is to—Silicon Valley buzzword alert — “disrupt” the standard of women learning outdoor skills from men, if they’re ever taught them at all. Because wouldn’t it be awesome if there were a whole generation of little girls and boys who could say, “Yeah, I learned how to build a fire and read a map from my mom.”

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My mom raised my brother and me by herself, and since she had zero exposure to the outdoors, camping and hiking weren’t in our family repertoire. It wasn’t until the end of college that I started dating a guy who was outdoorsy, whose family lived locally and had all the gear we needed, and who was an exceptional teacher.

He took me on my first camping trip in Yosemite 13 years ago. We “surprise” climbed Half Dome, summiting as the sun set, with no remaining water, food, or headlamps. I got a lot smarter about things over the years, thank goodness.

I didn’t realize at the time how lucky I was. Having talked to hundreds of women about their experiences in the outdoors, more often than not, they get: “Hey, uh, babe, you’re doing it wro- No, not like that. Just…move over and let me.”

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I love backpacking. I love pushing my body until I’m good and exhausted at the end of the day. I love crawling into my sleeping bag and falling asleep with my Kindle still on after reading only a paragraph of my book. I love the spacious, meandering conversations that happen with your backpacking buddies when you know you have nothing but time to talk.

Like a lot of people, my internal dialogue is dominated by ‘shoulds’: you should be doing more, you should be making more money, etc. I love that backpacking takes things down to the need level: I need to get to my campsite, I need to cook dinner. It simplifies what’s important each day, and that creates space for me to focus on what’s important in life.

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The four-year anniversary of my mom’s death came and went a few weeks ago. In October 2012, I was orphaned —my father had passed away the previous year —and I felt utterly unmoored and mired in grief. I couldn’t keep doing what I was doing, working in the same job and pretending like everything was alright, so my boyfriend and I decided to quit our jobs to travel.

We started that December in East Africa, and by mid-April 2013, he and I were in Bolivia backpacking in the Andes. On the second day of one particular trek, I got up early and started cooking breakfast beside our tent.

The sun rose over the mountains and warmed my face as I stirred oats, slivered apples, and manjar together in my tiny pot, and in that moment, I was struck with an deep sense of fulfillment and well-being. My grieving process wasn’t over, but I realized I hadn’t cried in a few weeks, and that right then, I both had and knew everything I needed.

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I wanted to share the moment with my two best girlfriends, and realized how odd it was that I had never combined the outdoors with my favorite people. I decided I’d take them backpacking as soon as I got back home, and make sure they knew everything they needed to know to get out and have their own empowering experiences.

About two seconds later, it occurred to me that I shouldn’t stop there. About an hour of brainstorming later, I came up with a name: Trail Mavens.

Being an outdoorswoman is all about attitude. It’s not about what you know how to do, but what you’re willing to try even when you feel like you’re going to fail, and probably getting messy and dirty in the process.”

—As told to Dirtbag Darling

The post #DefendersofFun: Sasha Cox, Trail Mavens Founder appeared first on Dirtbag Darling.

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#livewithoutlimits l#livewithoutlimits like Manu Pa

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3rd ascend Arcoxia Västervik3rd ascend Arcoxia Västervik3rd ascend Arcoxia Västervik3rd ascend Arcoxia Västervik3rd ascend Arcoxia Västervik

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Climbers across the United States have benefited tremendously from the efforts of non-profit climbing organizations. From small local climbing alliances to national institutions, these organizations have worked tirelessly to further the sport. Here are the five organizations that every climber should know …

 

The Access Fund

access-fund-logo The sport climbing revolution brought with it hordes of new climbers and gyms sprouting up in every major city in our nation. Consequently, record numbers of climbers are heading to the crags. Unfortunately, one in five of those crags are threatened with access issues. As a result, the Access Fund was formed to help ensure climbing access to cliffs around the nation through the following actions:

  • Representing the interests of climbers to the government organizations that manage the land on which we climb
  • Working towards better stewardship of areas climbers frequent
  • Actively acquiring land to protect climbing areas from private development and closure
  • Supporting landowners, to help encourage public access to climbing on private land
  • Assisting the efforts of over 90 local climbing organizations across the country
  • Educating climbers so we can all be effective representatives of our sport

The Access Fund and its partners have preserved access to 229 climbing areas and it has awarded over $50,000 in grants that further its mission. Take a look at their 2015 Annual Report to learn more about the amazing accomplishments of the Access Fund.

Your part:

For $35 annually, you can become a member today! Alternatively, you can make a donation, volunteer with a partnered local climbing organization, or peruse the Access Fund Store.

 

American Alpine Club

5 Climbing Organizations You Should Care About The American Alpine Club is a self-described national climbing family. With over 16,000 members, it is the largest climbing club in the nation. Membership brings you $12,500 of rescue coverage, copies of the American Alpine Journal and Accidents in North American Mountaineering, opportunities to receive climbing grants, resources to connect with additional climbers, and discounts for popular climbing brands, shops, and gyms. In addition to these benefits, the American Alpine Club also advocates for the interests of climbers in public policy.

Your part:

In the words of Yvon Chouinard,

“Cast your vote to protect the places we love by becoming a member today.”

For $75 per year, you’ll join a passionate community of climbers and help contribute to the advancement of our sport.

 

American Mountain Guides Association

5 Climbing Organizations You Should Care About The American Mountain Guides Association focuses on educating guides; they set the industry standards for guiding and are the de facto accrediting body for climbing instruction. Additionally, the AMGA advocates for guiding access on public lands. For those who lack the requisite climbing skills to be self-sufficient in the mountains, a guided experience offers a safe way to experience the rich beauty of these areas.

Your Part:

When looking for climbing instruction, choose AMGA-accredited guiding services such as the American Alpine Institute, which has been called the “Harvard of mountaineering schools.” The programs offered by the American Alpine Institute educate climbers to function competently on their own, while developing the judgment skills necessary to stay safe in the mountains. In addition to offering traditional education, the American Alpine Institute blog contains invaluable information on a wide variety of climbing topics.

 

American Safe Climbing Association

5 Climbing Organizations You Should Care About Have you ever clipped a bolt? If so, the American Safe Climbing Association is looking out for you. The group brings volunteers around the country together with the goal of replacing deteriorating hardware. Even staunchly traditional climbing areas benefit from the ASCA through the placement of bolted anchors and rappel routes. Whether your discipline is sport or trad, the ASCA is working hard to keep you safe by replacing ancient time bomb bolts with camouflaged stainless steel bolts, which can in turn be easily removed and replaced at the end of their useful lives.

Your part:

If you’ve ever clipped a bolt with “ASCA” stamped on the hanger, please consider making a donation. A $50 donation is often enough to re-equip an entire route. If you are familiar with bolting techniques, you can also donate your time to the admirable cause of replacing old bolts.

 

Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics

leave-no-trace-logo While this organization isn’t focused on climbing, its mission is important and relevant to our community. The Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics works

to sustain healthy, vibrant natural lands for all people to enjoy, now and into the future.

Many climbing educational organizations, such as the AAI and AMGA, also teach Leave No Trace principles. All responsible climbers are practicing the 7 principles, even the Hitchhiking Mad Man, Hobo Greg.

Your part:

If you can’t name the 7 principles off the top of your head, take a minute to look them over. Put them into practice at the crag and be a steward for the outdoors.

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The post 5 Climbing Organizations You Should Care About appeared first on Moja Gear.

Read more http://mojagear.com/journal/2016/10/18/5-climbing-organizations-you-should-care-about/

Ryuichi Murai has done his sixth 8C in the last 12 months and the seventh ascent of Asagimadara in Mizugaki. The 167 cm tall Japanese is the new 8a ranking leader. "Finally I managed to climb "Asagimadara 8C" put up by Tokio Muroi for three days. Yesterday, I tried it for the first time in one year. I could remember my moves soon because Mizugaki is the best season now. I had attempted to deal with crux move (4th hold) by campusing so far. But I couldn't the move. Eventually, I could resolve by leaving right heel on start hold. Actually I wrote this move off by reason of short reach, when I touched Asagimadara at first. So I felt more surprised than happy!!

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A Crash Course in Confidence

A prime venue for getting back the confidence.

The re-entry into trad climbing was a little rugged. Right off the belay on the second pitch, I was thrutching up a squeeze chimney with no gear for a ways. The climbing wasn’t hard, but I’ve never loved chimneys, some think they feel secure but I often feel like I could slip out at any time. Above the slot, it wasn’t clear from the topo where to go. I was looking for a runout face, and I had two options, neither of which had any chalk on them. One had better looking holds, but they also looked fragile and dirty. I made some moves to investigate, and then came down to try the other way, which was more committing and exposed, but proved to be the right path.

My next lead went up another funky chimney/slot with full body stemming. After I got to the belay, I realized I had been on edge the first two pitches because I wasn’t very confident in my route finding. I wasn’t positive I was on route, and I hadn’t been trad climbing recently, so while I had been climbing plenty, I hadn’t been in that “trad” headspace since June. And as with so many things in life, confidence is everything.

I’d also had a funky week as an old back injury had flared up several days prior, and I wasn’t sure how it would feel on route. I knew the climbing wasn’t going to be difficult, but there’s enough uncertainty climbing in the Black, adding something else to the mix wasn’t helping. As we climbed higher, however, it all started to come back. I was more comfortable with my skills, my ability to stay cool 20-30 feet above my last piece. By pitch eight, I was in the groove, having a great time.

The other day I came across a video about folks breaking bricks with their hands. A physicist was explaining how it’s possible, and a key component was confidence. If you hesitate, you’ll probably break your hand. After many years of climbing, I know well the power of confidence on the rock, but still have a hard time channelling it when coming off those times when I feel weak, haven’t been climbing much, etc. Even if I’m climbing strong in the gym, the confidence outdoors takes some time to come back.

And I’ve always struggled with onsight climbing. On redpoint, I feel like a superhero, but onsighting has consistently been difficult for me. My friend Chris says I think too much, which is probably true, as I have an analytical mind, amazing for remembering beta, but can really get in the way on the onsight. Is that the right way? Maybe it’s over there? Is that a jug? Could be a sloper… Stop thinking and just keep moving!!

A Crash Course in Confidence

Chris is probably telling me to stop thinking and go up.

I suppose that’s part of what keeps me coming back for more. Being confident is a state of mind I constantly have to work to achieve, but those moments when it all comes together make the struggle worthwhile. Knowing I’ll find a way through the crux, knowing I’m strong enough to do the moves, knowing I have the energy for one more pitch.

And then to take that mindset and apply it to other areas of life is incredibly empowering. And so the game goes on…

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Black Diamond reports that Adam Ondra has started his Dawn Wall challenge. "“First day on the big wall in Yosemite, and straight onto the Dawn Wall! Foolishness, lack of respect or boldness? Well, not necessarily any of it. The Dawn Wall just dries up quickly after the huge rain on Sunday. And it went all right. Definitely scary and adventurous. Tiny footholds and insecure climbing, smearing my feet onto glassy footholds of Yosemite granite and all that with poor protection by copperheads, peckers, tiny cams and occasional bolts. I ripped some copperheads, took some falls but made it to the top of pitch 7 and fixed our ropes. Leading the pitches with all the fear definitely felt super hard, but once I had the rope from above, the moves felt OK. But grades on the Dawn Wall are definitely not overrated. Grecesat success for today and 5 pitches to go tomorrow to have our ropes fixed under the crux pitches.” The picture is from Adam's Instagram showing him at the end of the 10th pitch during a night session.

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Alex Puccio will nevAlex Puccio will never cease to be amazing.

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Alexander Huber i FaAlexander Huber i Fabian Buhl klasycznie na słynnej „Sueños de invierno” (8a, 540 m) | wspinanie.pl

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When it comes to trying to improve at climbing, there is so much information out there that the most important information can get lost or overshadowed.  In reality, no mater how many articles or books you read and how hard […]

The post Alison Osius: The Best Things I’ve Leaned in Climbing appeared first on Training for Rock Climbing - TrainingBeta.

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Anna Stöhr on the HaAnna Stöhr on the Hatchling V11, Rocklands photo: Reinhard Fichtinger

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Another amazing accoAnother amazing accomplishment by 11-year-old climbing prodigy Ashima Shiraishi

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Ashima Shiraishi CliAshima Shiraishi Climbs First V15 - Climbing

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Earlier this week, we talked about Ethan’s new 5.14c trad line in northern California, Blackbeard’s Tears. Not long ago, he impressed the climbing world with his ascent of North America’s hardest sport line, Jumbo Love (5.15b). And now—living up to his reputation as one of the world’s best all-arounders—we watch Ethan on the eerily tall Old Greg (V11) in Bishop, California.

In this Friday Flick Pick, you’ll watch the full highballing process: scouting the line, working it on a rope (a near-successful brownpoint), and rounding up dozens of pads in the honorable effort to provide somelevel of safety …

 


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The post Bishop Highballing – Ethan Pringle’s First Ascent of Old Greg (V11) appeared first on Moja Gear.

Read more http://mojagear.com/friday-flick-pick/2016/10/21/bishop-highballing-ethan-pringle-little-egypt/

SALT LAKE CITY, Oct. 21, 2016 (GLOBE NEWSWIRE) -- Black Diamond, Inc. (NASDAQ:BDE) (the “Company”), a global leader of innovative active outdoor performance equipment and apparel, under the brand name Black Diamond®, will hold a conference call on Monday, October 31, 2016 at 5:00 p.m. Eastern time to discuss its financial results for the third quarter ended September 30, 2016. The financial results will be reported in a press release after the close of regular stock market trading hours on the same day as the conference call. Date: Monday, October 31, 2016 Time: 5:00 p.m. Eastern time (3:00 p.m. Mountain time) Toll-free dial-in number: 1-800-449-5865 International dial-in number: 1-719-3...

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Climbing - 2d3ed095bbba806303bde02aa6264d38 - 2016-10-23-08-32-26

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Climbing - SPORTSClimbing - SPORTS

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