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Bosi's comments on Hubble through coach Randall

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12 Essential Tips for Leading a Trad Climbing Route: Plan ahead when leading hard trad routes like "Born Under a Bad Sign" at Paradise Forks in Arizona.

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Paul Robinson has done his 16th 8C, Topaz in RMNP, of which Dave Graham did the FA just two weeks ago and which has been done also Daniel Woods. "It has been crazy lately! We have been finding and developing so many new boulders in Colorado. All of which are really good quality! I am really excited about the new lines and also trying to repeat some of the old ones. Having an entire fall in Colorado has allowed me to train a bit in the gym and climb outside a lot! I am super psyched to have climbed topaz and look forward to some more."

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William Bosi's coach Tom Randall has helped us out with some follow up questions to the 18-year-old who just did Hubble 9a (8c+). (c) Hot Aches Productions "What is perhaps most remarkable is that he’s only recently completed an endurance style 9a and repeated Malcolm Smith’s short Monk Life 8B+. His background in competition style training and energy systems periodisation has meant he has a very rounded profile in climbing and is capable of climbing short, long, cruxy or mid-length."Does Malc Smith have influence on you? Did his ascent of Hubble inspire you? Or his replica stuff…? Yes I do have to say he has been a big influence on my climbing for many years, guess that's what living in Scotland does. The film of his replica and the ascent have got me very psyched before! On this route, was its name, grade or history? Or just happy to try a cool route? Or something else? The name and the history are the same thing aren't they? And of course the history is what got me psyched to try it! It's been a dream of mine for many years now because of the history, and hearing about the more recent failed attempt by people like Ondra. Do you think Olympic format training (the combo) is compatible with being a top outdoor climber? No I do not, Or at least not yet as the format isn't definite yet. I think you could fit in the odd day or weekend but projects would be almost impossible in my opinion. What's more important to you? A pyramid of loads of hard routes, or just a few mega hard, mega inspiring projects? The most important thing for me is just try do whatever I am psyched for, it doesn't matter if it's 9a or 7a. If it's got me psyched I will to do it! Because of this I have a really bad grade pyramid.

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There were moments of significant doubt when, after waiting patiently, I received the news that I would not be granted the job I was hoping for. My current contract was quickly coming to an end, and it was then that I realized unemployment was anticipating my arrival just around the next corner. It wasn’t going to jump out and take me by surprise, no. Instead it made its presence known, expanding into the largest form of itself, purely for intimidation purposes. I looked for answers in the friend I knew would have sound, solid advice. He always does. And after spending a while strolling through the downtown streets of our city, he turned to me and asked, jokingly, “What would Dean say?”

The answer was simple, immediate.

Fly free.

To us, to think of Dean Potter was to think of a highly respected renegade, controversial in his actions but no less inspiring to so many of our generation. A world-class climber. A dog lover. A boundary pusher. Sometimes, a law breaker. When news of the accident came, it hit us. I had climbed for years but had only recently started considering myself a climber, and Potter’s passing was a hard realization that there was now one less of us. I wasn’t prepared for the worst happening to our best. At the same time, we knew limits come with risks, and reasoned that to Potter, 43 years with meaning were worth more than 86 without.

 

I had been to Yosemite Valley years before, before my days as a climber and long before my hands had grazed any rock. Even then I knew I had to return. The place itself had left a lasting impression with mysterious grandeur scrawled all over its tall walls. After seeing a screening of Honnold soloing Half Dome; after spending $43.00 on a hard copy of Valley Uprising so that I could watch it, share it, discuss it, and then watch it again; after learning the history behind the park and Camp 4, its significance grew exponentially. Robbins, Hill, Honnold, Potter. Stomping ground of The Great Ones. It didn’t take long to decide that the desert would be my first stop, but Yosemite would be the ultimate destination of my flight.

And so I set out with slight trepidation at what the following months would hold. I had no real plan, and minimal experience living out of the back of a car. But, really, I thought, how much preparation did that need? Whispering words of encouragement to Belle, my little white Accent, I drove from Ontario to Utah with a mission, not caring what was in between but only what waited for me in the Southwest. There’s no way I could have predicted what I found there. The desert and I formed an instantaneous connection.

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I started chasing Potter’s presence in every direction I could. Just outside of Moab I was caught by surprise when, hiking around that last corner, my eyes fell on Delicate Arch. It seemed so vulnerable, standing there against a gray sky as the Utah wind blew with authority; standing in juxtaposition with the La Sal mountain range so powerful behind it. This was a divisive spot in Potter’s career, and I immediately understood why. Hearing rumors of “the cave” close by, my climbing partner and I also went in search of Zen Garden (V8), following washes with pure faith in the local’s directions. We found it, and touching the split in that sandstone roof, I placed my amateur hands where Potter’s had been so skilled and deliberate before me. The result was immediate: a torrent of emotion. Admiration. Inspiration.

My feet took me to unforgettable places, but it was with my 70-meter rope I learned the most. Arriving as a moderate gym climber, I thought that my recent lead course could take me anywhere I wanted to go. Naive or idealistic, it didn’t matter; everywhere I looked there were techniques I’d never tried, terms I’d never heard, and ultimately, the requirement of skills I just simply didn’t have. To climb in the desert was to be reduced back to beginner status. You’re out of your league, Miss Bobbi, were the whispers I heard in the air.

It came as a surprise, then, that one of the most impressionable experiences came in the form of Indian Creek. I had resisted the repeated suggestion to attempt the Creek under the premise that I had never touched a crack before arriving in the Southwest, and the desire to repeat my one experience was mockery in its finest form. Was there any face climbing? I vaguely remember being politely laughed at in response. I didn’t yet know that there, bolts may as well be sacrilegious. But against all odds, I found myself thinking When in Rome.

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Upon first impression, I was overwhelmed by its pure, natural beauty. Mouth agape I drove past miles and miles of meandering red buttresses bearing an infinite number of splitter cracks. Miles of the most simplistic lines in the most intricate of landscapes. It was as magical as Yosemite was majestic. Any climber, amateur or expert, would hear those routes calling. I knew that to answer meant to accept the challenge of frustration, agony, and all of the other descriptors I’d heard and so briefly experienced. But to let those calls ring would be a sin.

My first day was every bit as humbling as I had expected. The second, no better. Each new morning I awoke with painful new bruises to my hands, legs and mentality. My muscles craved rest. My mind craved anything easy. But I had the determination to get to the top of a true Indian Creek crack. Finding comfort in discomfort became my mantra; this is not permanent, my mental green light.

Finally, after days in the boxing ring with that unforgiving place, I found redemption when my left hand locked deep into Elephant Man (5.10) while comfortably chalking up with my right. In that moment I knew I’d met a goal that two months prior hadn’t existed, yet one that had come to hold much significance. I had finally jammed my way to the top of the Creek, and the view from up there opened up a perspective I hadn’t ever expected to see.

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My timeline had already been pushed; the road was waiting. I knew it was time to say goodbye, yet doing so meant to leave behind a place and people who had become such a large part of my life. The desert had been a teacher, who so clearly demonstrated how remarkable goals can be achieved. Perhaps even more so it had come to be a home, a home to a community that exemplified inspiration, encouragement, and belief. It wasn’t me that had continuous faith in reaching my goals. It was those that surrounded me, and those that propelled me to reach them. For that I will always be grateful.

Next stop: California.

As I entered through the gates of Yosemite, I raced along the winding road determined to secure a spot in Camp 4. Making my way onto the valley floor, the impressions those granite walls had left me with years before came rushing back. Although my trip continued past my time there, the journey unquestionably culminated in a hike up to Taft Point, the setting stage for Dean’s fateful jump.

After continuously losing myself on the snowbound trail, I arrived frustrated. That frustration, however, quickly dissipated into the view that opened up before me. It was a view that encompassed TheNose, the Falls, and all the magnificence that is Yosemite Valley; a view of green and granite last seen by Potter; a view that could not fail to renew and inspire.

view from taft point yosemite california

I sat, absorbing the moment, but suddenly found myself feeling vulnerable which was quickly followed by a surge of emotion. Confused, I tried to pinpoint the origin. Were these tears for Dean? For the raven that somehow chose this minute to fly overhead? Were they for this journey, which had delivered so much more than I had anticipated?

As I gave in and let them spill over, it was then that I realized they were not for any of those specifically, but in essence for all. As life, in all of its intricacies, can be exceptionally beautiful depending on that one simple view.

Before, during, and after my time away, I have asked what it truly means to fly free. Perhaps it is to leave comfort behind and to challenge. Perhaps it is to detach from society’s expectations, or expectations that we set for ourselves. To stay true to that which is important to us. An experience? A state of being? The answers can be plentiful.

Our respected renegade found meaning in freedom and used climbing as part of that expression. The search for my meaning continues, but I now know that our sport holds a much larger presence within it. Challenge. Growth. Simplicity. Staying true.

Thank you, Dean Potter.

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The post Chasing the Ravens: 6,000 Miles on the Wings of Dean Potter appeared first on Moja Gear.

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In case you haven’t seen it before, this is the story of what Chris Sharma does: once again—in seemingly casual fashion—Chris sends what most of the world would consider impossibly hard. But even though we see the story repeat itself in a now-normal frequency, watching him climb doesn’t get old.

So, here it is: Chris tries Joe Mama (5.15a/9a+), can’t do it, and so he takes a break and has a kid and trains a bit. Some time later, kicking it at home with a beer in-hand, he thinks about heading back out to Joe Mama. And in his words:

I was like what the hell, I’ll get back on Joe Mama. And yeah—[insert zipper swooshing sound]—crushed it. It was awesome.


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The post Chris Sharma on Joe Mama (5.15a/9a+) appeared first on Moja Gear.

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Beth Rodden InterviewPhoto: Corey Rich Productions

The subjective nature of rock climbing will never allow us to determine a definitive “best,” but among the contenders of our sport’s most accomplished climbers ever—male or female—Beth Rodden would be right near the top. A few of her profound achievements include: becoming the youngest woman to free climb 5.14 upon her 1998 ascent of Smith Rock’s To Bolt or Not to Be; free climbing El Capitan’s The Nose (5.14a), which only five climbers have done; and successfully free climbing Yosemite Valley’s Meltdown (5.14c), which some believe may be the hardest female ascent ever and remains unrepeated since its 2008 tick.

Growing up in the competition environment, Beth went on to climb some of the world’s hardest lines amid a cycle of ups and downs in her ongoing battle with injuries. Splitting her time between California’s Bay Area and Yosemite, Beth is happily married and she’s the mother to a young boy, Theo.

In this interview, we discuss Beth’s early days in the climbing gym, how our sport has evolved, and her tips for readers on projecting, training, nutrition, and more.


Quick bites

  • Born: 1980
  • Began climbing: 1994
  • Most memorable ascent: The Nose with Hans Florine and his wife, Jacqueline, March 2000.
  • Favorite crag snack: In-season fruit; peaches, nectarines, oranges, etc.
  • Favorite climbing book: It’s not a book, but when I was a kid, I watched Lynn’s video free climbing The Nose hundreds of times. That video—I was so obsessed!
  • Favorite non-climbing book: Maybe this sounds taboo now, but I loved Lance Armstrong’s first book.
  • Favorite band: Gillian Welch, Bon Iver, and Elliott Smith. I’ll put them all together in one Pandora station.

Hi Beth, thanks for your time. What are you up to?

We’re in Yosemite for the fall season—it seems lots of people are pretty psyched on Yosemite right now.

Some get nervous about the crowds and influx of climbers heading to the Valley. What’s your opinion?

Everyone wants to go out and enjoy quiet time in their favorite climbing area, and I’m no exception to that, but you make the best of it.

We drove down to the Valley yesterday and on a Wednesday in mid-October, it was crowded to drive on the road. It has definitely been busy and I think that has been due to a lot of factors, one being the centennial celebration. And also, with Valley Uprising and the Dawn Wall craziness, it put Yosemite in the spotlight.

What would be your advice for a 5.10 climber coming to Yosemite … to not get mobbed by crowds?

Come in the winter, when the forecast is good. Because it’s going to be crowded and even then—in the winter—it can still be crowded. It’s a crowded place!

 

Let’s talk about your early days—where did you get started and what was it like growing up in the competition environment?

I got started in a small climbing gym, Rocknasium, in my hometown of Davis, California. It was the mid-90s, so climbing gyms were actually pretty rare back then, maybe just a dozen in the country.

We were lucky to have a climbing gym in our little town and back then the climbing gyms were different—they were small and like family. I know those gyms are still around, but since climbing is taking off some of the gyms now have thousands of members.

Back then it was really cool because there were a few hundred members and everyone knew each other. There was real mentorship going on.

So, when I started climbing outside, the guys working at the gym—they’d been climbing for decades, all around the world—showed me the ropes. They’d mentor me on ethics and stewardship at the crag. It was a pretty special time in my life and it shaped me as a climber.

I had also grown up doing competitive sports and when I started climbing, there were all these local comps. I started in the fall and that next summer or fall, a little less than a year, I went to one of the first junior national competitions in San Diego. From there, I qualified for the Junior World Cup in France.

It was cool because it was this first generation of kid climbers—people like me, Katie Brown, Chris [Sharma], Tommy [Caldwell], and all these people who would go on to push the sport of climbing forward. We were competing as juniors, but then we started competing with our heroes, people like Steve Hong and Robyn Erbesfield.

Learn About Beth Rodden's Gear Picks: Climbing Shoes“I rotate between three different pairs: La Sportiva’s TC Pros, Solutions, and Miuras. If it’s a long route, I’ll wear the TC Pro. If it’s a steeper climb, I’ll use the Solution. And then the Miuras are great for edging and vertical climbs. If I only had one shoe to bring with me on a desert island, I’d bring the Miuras.”View Lowest Prices: Beth's Favorite Climbing ShoesLa Sportiva TC ProLa Sportiva SolutionLa Sportiva Miura

 

How did the competitions contribute to the climber you are today?

I think the comps showed me this community side of the climbing population. Here were all these kids and we were scattered throughout the country. Then we got to see each other half a dozen times per year and as we got older, we started planning trips together.

It was this pretty cool time to see how small the climbing community was. You could cross all these barriers and generation gaps and I think the comps really introduced me to loving climbing and wanting to push myself; it was an avenue for that.

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In less than a year of climbing, you qualified for the World Cup. How did you progress so quickly?

I lived at the climbing gym. I was a good student, so I would come home, do my homework first, and then go to the climbing gym as much as I could. I loved climbing. It was a natural fit.

Knowing what you know now, what advice would you give your teenage self during this time?

Enjoy it! It may seem like those days will last forever, but they won’t.

I think when you’re young—or at least when I was a kid—I was like, This is an everyday experience, it will happen all the time. I went to Madagascar and I sort of thought, Oh, I’ll come back every year!

You have to enjoy it all—there’s no rush.

You’re known for hard redpointing. When working Meltdown, you said you thought the climb was impossible—you could only do one out of ten moves.

Where do you get the motivation to work through something that seems so far out of reach?

I really like big projects and big ideas—taking my time and problem-solving. The problem-solving aspect is something that I love about climbing, but I think it might be getting lost a little bit.

What do you mean by that?

This is a generalization, but I’ve worked with youth teams and have gone out climbing at the crag and boulders and it seems like a lot of people now—instead of walking up to a climb thinking, How am I going to solve this?—just want the beta so they can send it … to see if they can push their bodies physically.

It makes sense to me because that’s a really cool part of the sport, but it takes away the problem-solving aspect of how you’re actually going to get through the climb. It’s more like, “Can you tell me the beta to see if I can send it?”

Climbing is everyone’s own thing. But for me, the problem-solving aspect is a big motivator.

View Lowest Prices: Beth's Favorite Climbing Rope, the BlueWater Lightning Pro

 

What has caused this shift? Any notable climb is on YouTube—is that a factor?

I think it’s multi-faceted. When I was growing up at the climbing gym, the walls were completely filled with holds and only some of them were taped. I went in and would make up my own problems. I climbed the taped problems, but that only provided so much.

I’d go into the gym and spend 75% of my time making up problems.

Now we go into these big gyms and there are hardly, if any, extra holds. So I don’t know if it’s the commercialization of climbing or the media—it could be a bunch of different things.

Again, this is a generalization and it’s interesting to see how the sport changes.

So even from your first days in the gym, you were in this mindset of exploring and making your own path.

Exactly, and that drew me to climbing. Obviously the physical movement is amazing and I loved that, but for me, growing up with normal competitive sports where you have a coach, practice time, and a schedule—I loved how I went into climbing and there were no coaches, I could do whatever I wanted, I could stay for eight hours or 30 minutes. It was this time for self-discovery that created this self-drive and passion.

On a big project, what’s a greater hurdle for you: the physical difficulty of doing the moves or the mental barriers that might hold you back?

It’s probably a physical barrier. I’ve always loved the problem-solving component so it doesn’t take much for me to want to go back to something.

So for me, it’s about not getting injured, getting strong enough, knowing how much rest to have, doing specific training, that sort of thing.

What’s your relationship to training and climbing?

I think training and climbing has come leaps and bounds, but I never really followed anyone’s training program. I took bits and pieces of what I learned from Robyn or Tommy or Randy or other friends. I found what worked for my body and I’m sure it’s not the most scientific.

When I was redpointing really hard routes, I would climb in the gym three or four days a week. My body does well with a lot of rest and that took me a while to figure out. I think that may be a reason I’ve been injured so much because when I was 14, I could climb five or six days a week. It’s a hard transition to realize you can’t do that anymore.

You’ve had your share of injuries over the years. How do you know when you’re pushing yourself too hard?

It’s tough and I still struggle with this because climbers want to see how far they can push their bodies. One of my strengths has been that I can push hard and you can’t do that if you’re too scared of getting injured.

Resting a lot has helped but I’m still battling with injuries. I think when someone has been pushing their hardest in the sport for over twenty years, you’ll have injuries here and there. Acceptance is a really good thing to learn.

Learn About Beth Rodden's Gear Picks: Cams“The new Master Cams are amazing. And I’ll use Offset Master Cams on a specific route, when needed. But to save weight, I don’t put them on my normal rack.”View Lowest Prices: Beth's Favorite CamsMetolius Ultralight Master CamMetolius Offset Master Cam

 

When climbing your hardest, what’s your sequence of climbing/non-climbing days?

For a hard project, usually one day on and two days off. I definitely rest a lot more than other people.

Getting into the specifics, are you doing anything in particular with your breath while climbing?

Not really. I think I’m pretty good at breathing and that’s probably from comps—they taught me how to climb tired and push as far as I can.

Some climbers lay in bed visualizing their entire climb, move-by-move. Do you do anything like this?

I think about the beta so I don’t forget it, but I’m not a big sports psychology type person. I’ve never been into visualization or picturing success. That type of thing can actually stress me out and I prefer to just climb more naturally.

Beth Rodden on Meltdown Yosemite ValleyBeth on Meltdown (5.14c) | Photo: Corey Rich Productions

Do you have any sorts of rituals or habits when you walk up to the wall and are getting ready to start?

Not necessarily. I try to make sure I’m warm because it always seems to be cold when I’m projecting. I wear a lot of down jackets!

This is all interesting because any time I get asked about my mental state, I can never pinpoint it. I just kind of do what I do. I make sure I’m warm, that my gear is all good, and I try not to get too worked up.

What advice would you give to climbers struggling with the fear of falling?

Oh man, I’m probably not a good person to ask! I’m kind of a panzy.

I get scared to fall so I always work up to it. I take a few falls and realize it’s okay, then work up to bigger falls and realize it’s still okay. But I hate falling.

What are you eating to climb your hardest?

I’ve totally cleaned up my diet in the past handful of years. I used to always eat the same thing, having vegetables at maybe one meal and I thought that was pretty good.

I was the typical on-the-road climber having a can of soup and a burrito with beans and rice. I thought, Well, there’s not bad stuff in there.

Thanks to my husband, I’m eating real whole foods from good and organic sources. Now I eat vegetables at almost every meal and we get good quality meat—not low-quality stuff, but meat that’s expensive because it’s raised properly.

It’s good for my body and good for the earth.

Learn About Beth Rodden's Gear Picks: Quickdraws and Alpine Draws“If I’m doing a long route, I take anywhere from 7-10 alpine draws and the Metolius F.S. Mini Quickdraws. Then if I’m sport climbing, I’ll use the Bravo Wiregate Quickdraws.”View Lowest Prices: Beth's Favorite QuickdrawsMetolius F.S. Mini QuickdrawMetolius Bravo Quickdraw

 

Have you ever given up on a project? How do you know when it’s time?

I have projects that I’d still like to do, so I don’t know if I’ve given up on them. But I’ll leave things that don’t inspire me—if I’m not driven to go back there I might leave it.

It’s not uncommon to have a down-cycle in your psyche after a big accomplishment. How do you suggest climbers cope with these ups and downs?

That’s something that took me a long time to learn. I remember after The Optimist [5.14b], I didn’t really want to climb that much and I didn’t feel psyched. Honestly, I think that’s something that injuries have helped me with—they’ve helped me get so psyched to go and climb

You have to realize that climbing can be a life-long endeavor if you want it to be and if you’re not feeling it or you have to dial it back for a month or two or a year, that’s fine. Climbing will be there when you’re psyched again.

Even if you’re not psyched again, that’s cool too. Or if you just want to climb 5.8, that’s also cool.

Climbing provides so many different avenues and it’s good to listen to your body and your mental psyche because if you push it too much, you might burn out entirely.

How has your relationship to climbing hard and pushing yourself to the limit evolved over the years and into motherhood?

For the longest time, that’s what drove me in climbing—setting really big goals and pushing my body as hard as I could to achieve them. Once I started getting injured and couldn’t be doing that, I got super bummed and frustrated. But, that’s where being injured gave me a such huge gift …

I got to the point where I was wondering if I should even go through the pain and anguish of continuing to climb. I took time and went climbing with my neighbors, on 5.7 and 5.8, and on big ridges. Over the course of a year, I realized I love climbing no matter what.

I’m super happy getting to the top of a big project of mine like a free climb on El Cap or a 5.14, but I’m also just as excited and giddy getting to the end of a huge ridge traverse. I don’t know if I would’ve learned that without the injuries. That’s been a huge lesson—to realize I’m a lifer!

Transitioning into motherhood, I couldn’t climb super hard when I was pregnant. Then I had a pretty tough, physical postpartum recovery from having my son. Now I climb when I can with Theo around and then other times give him all the time and attention he needs. It has been great.

beth-rodden-and-son-theo


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Editor’s note: this article was updated on October 27, 2016, to include the name of Hans Florine’s wife, Jacqueline.

The post Climber Spotlight: Beth Rodden on Redpointing Tips, Training, and Nutrition appeared first on Moja Gear.

Read more http://mojagear.com/climber-spotlight/2016/10/25/beth-rodden-interview-redpointing-training-nutrition-climbing-tips/

Daniel Jung has done his second 9a+, Corona in Frankenjura. On his FB page Daniel shares the story. Photo by his brother Markus. "Sunday evening I was lucky to send my dream route "Corona" 9a+. It was allready 20:30 and dark. I didn't expect any big process that go, but suddenly I stuck the crux move! After the crux there are still some moves that needed full attention, I also had to skip two bolts that made everything even more spicy. Luckily I didn't got too nervous, and could send it up to the top. At the end I'm happy that I took the decision to go for the original beta from Markus Bock, even if it felt a more powerful. When I saw his video I didn't believe that I could climb it one day. Big thanks to everyone that spend a good time with me on that rock!"

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petra-klingler-episode-art On being a third generation rock climber, Switzerland’s sports-based school system, and winning the 2016 IFSC boulder world cup…

**This episode is sponsored by Joshua Tree Skin Care, Power Company Climbing, and Gnarly Nutrition. Support this podcast by entering “chalktalk” at checkout for up to 20% off you next order!**

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Summary

Petra Klingler is a 24-year-old climber from Bonstetten, Switzerland. She began climbing as a child; influenced by her parents and grandparents who would take turns watching her and her brother while the others would embark on multi-pitches and alpine climbs. She has since grown to be one of the best female climbers in Europe. This year (2016), Petra secured a 1st place podium spot at the IFSC Bouldering Championships in Paris, France over Miho Nonaka (JPN) and the 2015 boulder world cup overall winner, Akiyo Noguchi (JPN).

Show Notes for episode with Petra Klingler:

  • Life after her goal of winning the IFSC Paris Championships (4:58)
  • Her thoughts on the route setting at the Paris Championships (5:51)
  • How she was able to work on her weaknesses and succeed this season (8:18)
  • Her familial roots in climbing and how she got started (10:13)
  • Her first IFSC World Cup experience (15:19)
  • After competing for most of her life, how does she keep up the motivation (17:32)
  • Where and how Petra trains for the IFSC World Cups (17:50)
  • Where her motivations are for training inside and climbing outside (24:26)
  • How it felt to achieve her goal of winning the Paris Championships (26:03)
  • The flood of emotions she experienced after completing the final climb, and whether or not she knew she had won (28:13)
  • Her studies in Sports and Economics and what she plans to do with her degree (32:48)
  • How Switzerland’s school system is set up to support young athletes (34:06)
  • Whether or not she will be pursuing a spot on the Olympic team in 2020 (38:04)
  • Interviews and opportunities she has had since winning in Paris (40:03)
  • What the next 6 months hold for Petra (41:55)
  • Competing in ice climbing competitions (42:47)

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Petra topping Problem #4 in the Paris Championships and her reaction…

 

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Ep. 61 w/ Petra Klingler | 2016 IFSC Boulder ChampEp. 61 w/ Petra Klingler | 2016 IFSC Boulder ChampEp. 61 w/ Petra Klingler | 2016 IFSC Boulder ChampEp. 61 w/ Petra Klingler | 2016 IFSC Boulder ChampEp. 61 w/ Petra Klingler | 2016 IFSC Boulder ChampEp. 61 w/ Petra Klingler | 2016 IFSC Boulder Champ

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Good morning from Baja Sur. The surf has been small to flat so...

Good morning from Baja Sur. The surf has been small to flat so we headed over to the Sea of Cortez to snorkel and enjoy the warm water. Heading back to the surf today further south. #outdoorwomen #sheexplores #optoutside (at Bahia Concepcion)

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Harness for the pregHarness for the pregnant

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Oozing with loads of mind-boggling gymnastic movement, challenging and creatively set problems, and plenty of try-hard—this year’s Bouldering World Cup was yet another impressive display of athleticism in this quickly advancing sport.

For some insight into the excitement that unfolded, enjoy this 13-minute compilation of highlights from the first three rounds of the 2016 IFSC World Cup, including competitions in:

  • Meiringen, Switzerland
  • Kazo, Japan
  • Chongqing, China

To stay tuned to the latest results and updates in the 2016 IFSC World Cup, visit the official website here.


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The post Highlights from the 2016 Bouldering World Cup appeared first on Moja Gear.

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Hitting the dirt road again! We are in Baja searching for surf,...

Hitting the dirt road again! We are in Baja searching for surf, but I’m still trying to get over the fall views on the back roads of the San Juans. #optoutside #sheexplores #outdoorwomen #expeditionportal #overland #autumn (at San Juan Mountains, Colorado)

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Rock & Ice reports that Joe Kinder, who previously has done six 9a's, has done the FA of Bone Tomahawk in the Fynn Cave after six years and some 40 days of projecting. (c) Tristan Greszko. "Regarding the grade, Kinder says, it could be “a normal 9a [5.14d] or a 9a+ [5.15a], but hell.... I don't know and don't want to state anything I'm not comfortable with. What’s next on the docket for Kinder? “The extension,” he says, which “[tacks] on an 8b+ [5.14a]. I linked the section yesterday.... I can do it!” It should be noted that R & I has given it 9a/+. Such slash grade is normally used when you define that the difficulty is exactly in between two grades. As it seems Joe indicates that the grade is instead either of two grades, 8a has reported it as 9a (+). Further more, slash grades are almost never used by the community nowadays.

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Michaël TimmermansMichaël Timmermans #fontainebleau

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Chocolate vegan cupcakes with healthy (yes, I say!) chocolate mousse on top! You can always eat the mousse straight, or eat the cupcakes plain, it’s up to you 🙂

This is the first of a vegan cupcake series with delicious and non-cringeful (no powdered sugar or shortening in any of these!) frostings. You can make any cupcakes with any frostings, so stay tuned for the next flavors….

Chocolate Cupcakes
1 cup plain unsweetened soy milk (or almond milk)
1 tsp apple cider vinegar (or white vinegar)
1/2 cup coconut palm sugar (or any kind of dry sweetener you like)
1/3 cup vegetable oil (any kind)
1 1/2 tsp vanilla extract
1 cup flour
1/3 cup unsweetened cocoa powder
1/2 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp baking soda
1/4 tsp salt

Preheat oven to 350 F, put paper or reusable silicone liners inside a muffin pan, or just grease with some vegetable oil and a paper towel.

Mix together the soymilk and vinegar, let curdle for a few minutes. Add the sugar, oil and vanilla to the curdled soymilk and whisk until foamy. Sift together all the dry ingredients, and add gradually to the wet ones (don’t dump it in all at once, because the cupcakes will be heavy). Beat until there are no big lumps left.

Pour batter into the liners or muffin tin about 3/4 of the way full, bake 18-20 minutes (check that a toothpick comes out clean). Put cupcakes on a wire rack after about 5 minutes to cool all the way.

Vegan Chocolate Mousse Frosting
1 12 oz box silken tofu (this is in the unrefrigerated section, often with the Asian food)
1 cup chocolate chips
3 T maple syrup
1 tsp vanilla

Melt the chocolate chips in a double boiler (I just use a small saucepan floating in some water in a larger saucepan), and add a little water as you stir the melted chocolate.

Transfer the melted chocolate to a large mixing bowl, add the silken tofu, maple syrup and vanilla and blend with a stick blender. Cover and put in the fridge to firm up for several hours. (Or put into several small glass cups, cover them, and enjoy as mousse). When the mousse is cold, put it into a frosting bag with a large frosting tip and squeeze on top of the cupcakes: don’t be afraid to pile it high!

Read more http://stephdavis.co/blog/mix-match-vegan-cupcakes-chocolate-chocolate-mousse/