Search

3x 8B+ by Christof Rauch

Christof Rauch has done three 8B+ Boulder Problems (two of them FA) in the last 2 weeks. The third best positioned boulderer in the 8a ranking game did an 8C FA last year, which is still his personal best. He comments in his scorecard about Insanity of Grandeur, one of his sends: "Felt so unreal to stand on top of this huge boulder! A real kingline with full value climbing. Checked out the moves when i did "Delusion" for the first time, then I had a few sessions last winter and now it took me 3 more sessions to put it down. Syked!!!" (c) Stefan Kürzii

Read more https://www.8a.nu/

Michael Piccolruaz, who was #2 in a Boulder World Cup this spring and who has flashed two 8A+'s in 2016, has flashed Wrestling with an alligator 8B in Malatal. "I knew it would suit my stile quite well and so I whatched some videos to get the right beta. On friday after the warm up I wasn't too sure if I should try it that day because I was quite tired and my skin was quite sore. But some guys of the team were trying the boulder and got me motivated to give it a go. Eventually everything worked out perfectly how I had planed it and so I got into a kind of flow and climbed trough all the moves perfectly."

Read more https://www.8a.nu/

Christian Münch has done the FA of his project in Kochel calling it From doubt to confidence and proposing the 9a grade, which would be his first one. It has been the longest project for the German climber so far. This year his previous best was 8c and some days ago he did his second 8b onsight, meaning that he is probably in his best shape ever. (c) Rene Golker

Read more https://www.8a.nu/

Jakob Schubert, one of the best competition climbers in the world of the last ten years, has done the FA of Kein Licht Kein Schatten 9a in Ötztal and he reports on Facebook with a great picture from Wilhelm Heiko. "The special thing about this route is that you need to climb a 7c to get to the ledge where the route starts. It's a very beautiful spot with a great view into the valley" Now Jakob has travelled to Spain and reports, "First two days were fun and succesful, could do all the moves on 'Joe Mama' 9a+ in Oliana and 'Stoking the Fire' 9b in Santa Linya."

Read more https://www.8a.nu/

David Firnenburg, #3 in Combined in the last world championship, has done his eighth 9a, Action Directe in Frankenjura. It was put up by Wolgang Gullich in 1991 and it has been repeated 21 times now. (c) Lars Scharl 'IT’S DONE!!! A DREAM COMES TRUE. Last Saturday David finally repeated „Action Directe“ (9a) in Frankenjura after falling 9 times at the very last move. That was heartbreaking. The process of hard work behind this ascent makes the success even sweeter. It’s a big motivational boost to have achieved something that hard and iconic. It’s a feeling of satisfaction and pride which definitely remains active in our memories longer than usual."Action Directe" is a true masterpiece.'

Read more https://www.8a.nu/

Adam Ondra comments on his Black Diamond blog that he has topped out the Dawn Wall after two more days on the wall. National Geographic has also presented an interview with Adam. (c) Heinz Zak “It has been a productive 48 hours on El Cap. After the first night and ‘climbing’ pitch 15, I rested the whole day, slept as much as possible and at 10:30 p.m. we set off. The first thing I wanted to do was send pitch 16, which did not work out—soon after getting up I was not feeling very well. But I didn’t give it more tries and continued. Above us, there was untouched terrain (untouched by us). I led (with a few falls) the remaining four pitches up to the Wino Tower in the dark, finishing at 5:30 a.m. All these pitches in the 5.13c range felt quite good. “From Wino Tower we faced 11 more pitches and around 400 meters of climbing. Even though the hardest pitch is only 5.13a, there are some bold pitches too with fairly loose rock. I felt pretty good, and onsighted all pitches except two where photographer Heinz Zak made me stop. I was extremely happy to onsight the 5.12b flare (worst version of offwidth) three pitches below the top. By 2:30 p.m. we were on the summit. This ground up ascent made fixing the ropes justified (according to our ethics), so now the whole line is fixed with ropes and easy to work. “Now we are down in the Valley, recovering and getting ready for more work on the wall, especially pitch 14 (first traverse) [5.14d] and all the pitches below.”

Read more https://www.8a.nu/

Jernej Kruder came to Mallorca with no real DWS experience and immediately onsighted Weather man 8a+ with a crux 18 meters high up. Then, he immediately started working on Es Pontas. During his five weeks on the island, he only spent one day climbing other routes, onsighting two 8as and an 8a+. Regarding the grade, about which Chris Sharma told 8a ten years ago that it is personal but anyhow agreed that it could be a 9b, Jernej seems to be of the same opinion. (c) Kerstin Helbach "I'll just stick with Chris' thoughts. This thing is so specific. For sure it's about the 9th grade, but there are so many different factors, like the dyno. If there are 200 people in the world climbing 9a, maybe just 10% of them can do it. There is a fear factor and a mind battle trying it all over again without knowing if you're able to the all the moves or not. At the moment I don't feel like superman to climb all the hardest climbs in the world, but I feel lucky to have all of this skills that you need for this route. Maybe I'm just one of few chosen guys, who can actually climb this thing." The Slovenian also said that he could not do the crazy knee drop sequence after the dyno so he found another solution. What's interesting is that in fact the runner-up in the Bouldering World Championship 2014 says that even after the big dyno and the "drop knee" part, he found several more cruxes. "So on my last 4 days I was so lucky I didn't fall even once on dyno (even though I was never sure I'm gonna do it or not). So at the end the main crux was a long move on the arete. I stuck it for 3 times already, but failed it after that move- 3 moves before jug. There is also a bit strange crux after the jug, but luckily I was very confident after doing all the hard parts." Next year, Kruder will compete as normal, which he will combine with climbing Boulders, routes, and MPs and at some point he might start training for the Olympic Games.

Read more https://www.8a.nu/

Bouldering - 0676258f8db5fe21639b926683aa7ff1 - 2016-11-07-14-27-32

Read more https://www.pinterest.com/pin/364580532318775386/

Chris Sharma climbsChris Sharma climbs the Face de Rat in Céüse, France.

Read more https://www.pinterest.com/pin/364580532318792608/

Teaser: 

Read more http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/deadpoint/~3/6pdNa1CCXk8/dave-graham-climbs-creature-black-lagoon-confirms-v16

Endless summer ||| #outdoorwomen #sheexplores #optoutside #surf...

Endless summer ||| #outdoorwomen #sheexplores #optoutside #surf #sunset #baja (at Pescadero, Mexico)

Read more http://katcarneyphoto.tumblr.com/post/152648013249

Extreme HandstandingExtreme Handstanding !!!

Read more https://www.pinterest.com/pin/364580532318745242/

Danny Robertson, who started climbing in 1995, has done his first 8c+, The Crew in Rifle. (c) Derek Franz "I get to claim two categories of distinction: the OLDEST (with holds in their current form) and by far the WEAKEST person to ever climb this route. EPIC number of tries, EPIC! Ironically, as it often happens, did not feel the slightest bit pumped on the send. 3 years of effort. 2 times injured trying to get strong enough to do the climb. 2 times flipped upside down going for crescent jug."

Read more https://www.8a.nu/

Description: 

Read more http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/deadpoint/~3/8FPqA_F8zsA/first-ascents-get-biggly-v9-bad-hombre-v4-nasty-lady-v3-endo-valley

Description: 

Read more http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/deadpoint/~3/kcZpxvTsf2c/hawks-nest-summer-bouldering

Head to the Hills: RHead to the Hills: Rock Climbing on Phoenix's Camelback Mountain

Read more https://www.pinterest.com/pin/364580532318756173/

Heinz Zak free soloHeinz Zak free solo on separate reality, Yosemite, 23-05-2005

Read more https://www.pinterest.com/pin/364580532318792597/

How 15-Year-Old AshiHow 15-Year-Old Ashima Shiraishi Became the Face of Pro Rock Climbing - NBC News

Read more https://www.pinterest.com/pin/364580532318756174/

I can think of about a million things I’d rather do than...

I can think of about a million things I’d rather do than stand in a crowded shopping center the day after Thanksgiving, like belly flop into an alpine lake, go over the handlebars on my mountain bike, or take massive whippers on tiny protection. That’s why it just makes sense that @rei is closing their doors for Black Friday again this year so you can #optoutside and go do the things you love with the people you love! What do you guys think, will you go out with me? #optoutside #sponsored (at Bahia Concepcion)

Read more http://katcarneyphoto.tumblr.com/post/152563651309