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5 New Year’s Resolutions for Intermediate Climbers

“I hate waking up with you on my mind and not in my bed.”
- (via difficult) Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news #TBT shooting w/ Jackie Sterna :) PS- This is not real fur :)
#TBT shooting w/ Jackie Sterna :) PS- This is not real fur :) Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news &lt;&gt; Arc’teryx athlete<> Arc’teryx athlete Mina Leslie-Wujastyk at Squamish Mountain Festival Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news 11 year old Oriane Bertone climbs 10th Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news 11 year old Oriane Bertone climbs 10th Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news 11 year old Oriane Bertone climbs 10th Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news 11 year old Oriane Bertone climbs 10th Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news 11 year old Oriane Bertone climbs 10th V11
#1 Find Strength in Numbers
Community is one of the things (for me,the thing)that makes climbing so amazing. Make it your goal to reach out to somebody new in 2013. Include the person who’s looking for a partner in your group–even if it makes odd numbers. Help out the beginners in your gym or at the crag! Make sure the guy in his street shoes and a harness in the


area gets a good spot–sometimes beginners aren’t as in control of where they land when they fall. Be warm, welcoming and supportive.
#2 Use Outdoor Time Wisely
You should have three modes:
  1. Onsighting
  2. Working
  3. Redpointing
Most intermediate climbers spend too much time trying toonsightand redpoint, and little or no time at all working or projecting routes. If you’re trying to send the minute your feet leave the ground, every time, I’m talking to you! If a route is too hard for you to onsight, you should be working it! Test out beta, try tough sections multiple times, rest on the rope, and plan tactics for your redpoint go.
#3 Work on Your Footwork
Let’s be honest guys–we’re never going to be done working on footwork. There is no final state of footwork nirvana in which no improvement is possible. Now that we’ve accepted that, resolve to work on footwork in some way in every training session. One way to do this is to play the silent feet game–find a friend to make sure you stay accountable! Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news 5 New Year’s Resolutions for Intermediate Climbers
Fancy footin’ on the cigar in Ten Sleep Canyon, WY
#4 Be a Beginner Again
Once you’ve been climbing for a while, it’s easy to fall into the trap of doing what you’re good at. Trying things you’re bad at makes you look silly, it’s hard, and it often feels like you’re not getting anywhere. Do it anyway! Are slopers your nemesis? Replace a hold on a moderate (for you) route or problem with a sloper and see how it changes your beta? Technical masters, try something with a roof ! Jug haulers, try something balancy. Don’t spend any time telling everyone around you that you’re bad at whatever it is to lower expectations before you try it–just do it! You don’t judge other people when they fail, odds are, no one is judging you!
#5 Give Yourself a Break
When you have big dreams, it’s easy to fall short of your expectations. When this happens, don’t beat yourself up about it. Keep dreaming, and keep working! Someday you’ll get there, and in the meantime, there’s lots of fun to be had along the way.
What are your resolutions? What are you working on in the New Year? Want me to bother you about sticking to them in June? Post up in the comments! Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news 5 New Year’s Resolutions for Intermediate Climbers Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news - Image - Image Zoom
Edu Marin has made the FA of the five-pitch-long Tarragó Plus 8c located in Montserrat, which was the first playground crag for both Edu and his father, Novato, who belayed him. Tarragó was first freed by the Pou brothers in 2013 as an 8b+ and first Edu repeated the original line but two days later he opted for combining the two crux pitches and creating a 55 meter 8c with lots of ropedrag. "After freeing Tarragó, I thought that it would be best to join pitch 4 (8a) and pitch 5 (8b+), as the anchor was situated in the middle of a very difficult sequence. It was logical to me to rest after, not during that crux." "It is one of the most amazing routes I have ever climbed, aesthetically perfect, very aerial and exposed."
Gonzalo Larrocha has done his third 9a in 2016, Seleccio Natural in Santa Linya. "The power of the multi- execution. I guess that it can be soft in its grade But I was struggled in those two moves."
Ralf Grabowski has done his first 9a with the FA of Walk the Plank, which is a link up of two Toni Lamprect's routes (8b/8b+ and 8c/8c+). It is probably one of the best lines in Kochel and combines climbing on for the northern alps untypical big pockets, far moves and great rock with the beautiful beech trees of the spot. The 38-year-old has previously done one 8c+ and more than a handful 8c's and more than 250 8a and harder. It took him some 50 sessions to take his FA down. Here is a nice video made by Pirmin Bertle.
Thomas P. O'Halloran has done his second 9a FA in Blue Mountains, Kitten Mittens. "So good. First route I ever bolted. Cool to see the process to the end!" Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news A climber stands atoA climber stands atop Eichorn Pinnacle in Yosemite National Park, California Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news aaroncassebeerphotography: @kathrinemccullough warming up on...
@kathrinemccullough warming up on Superfly (5.10c) at the Owens River Gorge, Bishop, CA. #aacgram #doyouclimb #climbingnation #climbing_is_my_passion #climbmoja
Scott Channing Hall — Abandoned Mine in UtahInstall Theme Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Abandoned Mine in Utah
Tendon has the latest update from the Dawn Wall. It seems that Adam Ondra is almost ready for going for his big push. (c) Pavel Blazek "We had two busy day on the wall, but extremely important motivating ones! At first, I tried the pitch 14, where I still had no idea about what to do in the last boulder problem. After a little session, I could finally do the moves and soon after I gave it a go, but I realized that my beta for the intro moves on the last boulderproblem did not work. It took me a lot of time, skin, frustration and swearing to finally find a satisfying sequence, but I was exhausted and my skin thrashed. I still gave it a another that night, slipped on the first boulderproblem but then continued to the anchor. Which gave me a lot of confidence that next time it should work out. Second day, I was incredibly lucky to get overcast day, so I could make a lot of work. At first, we took some pics with Heinz Zak in pitch 14 (5.14d), then went down and sent pitch 8 (5.13d) and toproped pith 7 (5.14a). After lunch, I went for pitch 11 (5.13c) and linked the whole crux sequence, then linked the whole crux in pitch 12 (5.14b). Then we went down for toprope session on pitch 10 (5.14a) which is always desperately wet in the dark, but I still made it with one hang in toprope. To finish the day, I just re-checked the moves on pitch 9 (5.13c). It seems like I need yet to work a bit more on pitches 10, 12 and 13 (5.13b) and then pitches 1-6 (only 5.12b to 5.13c range) and I would be ready to go for the push. Can't wait!!!" Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Alex Honnold- Free CAlex Honnold- Free Climbed Half Dome in 2 hours and 9 minutes Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news img_4057
I can still remember the first pair of sunglasses I bought for myself: oversized white plastic frames hugging obnoxiously purple lenses in the style of 2000-era Paris Hilton.
Since that fateful, ill-informed sartorial moment, I’ve sent more sunglasses to their proverbial graves than I can count. My purses are pits of despair, a place where aviators and wrap-arounds are sent to perish and die. My keys and sunglasses live in the same drawer, tousled together with thumb tacks, an old tin of mints and some masking tape. The racks of shades at Target tremble when I walk through those sliding doors.
The other day a particularly brutal sun glare forced my husband to do something he dreads: borrow my sunglasses.
“You literally can’t see anything through these,” he said, his disgust palpable.
I see through them just fine. Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news img_4111
I recently listened to an episode of the NPR podcastInvisibliawhich delved into the emotional power that clothing can have over us. In the ’80s, a South Side Chicago kid named Albert Melvin Frank III—slight in build, unathletic, with glasses that gave him “cartoonish puppy dog eyes”—began wearing sunglasses as a way to deter bullies. A way to look “cool.”
It worked—but maybe too well. Frank (who now calls himself Casanova Frankenstein) is 48 now, and wears sunglasses every single day, indoors or out, morning, noon and night. He believes so passionately in the power of his sunglasses that he’s tried to quantify it, even going so far as to write essays on the topic. Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news img_3893
Which made me wonder: What do my sunglasses say about me?
So I ran a totally unscientific experiment: How long would it take me to ruin a brand new pair of sunglasses? I opted for a pair of Vuarnet shades, which are arguably the swankiest I’ve ever owned—if there were ever a pair of sunglasses I could be emotionally invested in, these were it. Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news img_4156
It’s been a few weeks and here’s what I’ve concluded: Sunglasses should fear me. I prefer life a little scratched up and smudged.
The cracked plastic littered at the bottom of my backpack and in my pockets is a testament to days filled with slippery rocks and nights spent with a down jacket as my only pillow.
The nicks in my lenses are like a tiny timeline, marking the moments when reaching a summit or hugging a friend took precedence over concern if my lenses toppled off their perch on my head.
Sunglasses should fear me because you don’t ruin sunglasses during the relaxing-on-a-Saturday parts of life. You ruin them during the this-will-be-a-great-story-later parts. And those parts are my favorites. Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news img_4087
The way I see it, some people take good care of their sunglasses, and other people don’t. I’m just one of the latter.
And that’s something I see just fine.
Written in Partnership With: Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news All the Sunglasses I’ve Ruined
This post was created in partnership with Vuarnet, who sent me a free pair of sunglasses try out (and, eventually, scratch up—sorry guys). To win a pair, check us out on Instagram (contest runs November 3-November 6, 2016). If you’re interested in supporting or working with Dirtbag Darling, please visit our Contact Page! Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news alpinejoy: Mark Janelle Smiley on the Nose, El Cap....
Mark & Janelle Smiley on the Nose, El Cap. Awesome footage.
Just a few hours left to support their 50 classics of North America project at kickstarter.
Confession time: I can’t do a real push-up. Not even one! I’m a perfect example of the imbalance that many climbers have in their upper bodies–our pulling muscles are way stronger than our pushing muscles. Correcting or avoiding this imbalance is an important part of injury prevention. Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Antagonist Muscle Training for (Intermediate) Climbers
Maggie says: You really can’t do a push-up!? What are you doing in the dirt? Can I play too?
One of my training ‘projects’ is improving my the strength of my antagonist muscles to correct my ownimbalance.You don’t need a fancy training program: you can fit pushing muscle exercises into whatever workout/climbing schedule you already have. Here are three suggestions…
#1 Stick, Meet Carrot
During your next


or routes session, work in a light number of push-ups in between routes or problems. Decide on a specific ratio–for example–do 5 (or 10) push-ups for every two boulder problems. If your gym has free weights easily accessible, you can mix it up and do other antagonist exercises.
When I do this type of workout, what I’m usually doing is ‘rewarding’ myself for doing exercises I’m not good at by doing things I like to do. For example, I do push-up progression exercises in all of my workouts: lifting or climbing. Sometimes, when I’ve done good work in a session, I’ll ‘reward’ myself by hopping up on the bar and doing a few pull-ups for fun.
You can work push-ups in between routes into your warm-up or cool down, or do them throughout a session. Don’t give yourself a break when you get outdoors–you may feel silly doing push-ups at the crag, but injuries are far worse than feeling silly. Ask yourself–if not now, when?
#2 Self-Assigned Homework
As Tony would say, I stole this idea from Tony Gentilcore, specifically from his pull-up progression series. Tony gives his clients ‘homework’ to do a certain number of reps per day, 25 or 50, for example.
The reps can be parceled out over the whole day, done all at once, in as many or as few sets as possible. The idea is to make sure the volume gets done! If push-ups or other pushing exercises are big a weak point, like they are for me, use progressions to make sure you’re not straining your body too hard too fast. As with anything, take a rest day if your body is telling you that you need to.
Suggestions: 50 push-ups, or 50 reps opposition total in a day
#3 Specific Antagonistic Workout
This is my current post-climbing weekend workout. For most of the fall, I was travelling on Friday night to the Red, climbing all day Saturday and Sunday, and driving back on Sunday. Sometimes I was too tired to do this workout immediately on Monday (especially if it had to wait until the evening), so I moved it to Tuesday. Listen to your body and do what feels right for you.
  1. Cardio intervals:
    • 10 minute warm up
    • 1 min high intensity ‘on’, followed by 1 min high intensity ‘off’, total of 10 minutes
    • 5 mins cool down, longer if there’s enough time
  2. Pushing Circuit: move between the three exercises quickly, then rest after one complete set. Adjust the number of reps and sets to taste. I usually do something like 3×10 or 5×5. If my form deteriorates, I drop the weight or shorten the set.
    • Standing dumbbell shoulder press
    • Push-ups (mine are incline)
    • Barbell bench press
  3. What I should be doing and I’m not: specific injury prevention exercises
Sometimes I tack other exercises onto the end of this workout, if I’m feeling energetic or if I have enough time at the gym to do so.
How often do you take the time to do opposition or antagonist muscle exercises? What do you do? Sound off in the comments!
More climber-specific resources from awesome people that relate to this subject:
  1. Article from Crag Mama with a great set of basic antagonist muscle exercises
  2. Article from Erik Horst for Nicros explaining antagonist exercises in injury prevention
  3. Thoughts from Steve Betchtel on imbalance, antagonist exercises, and training during recovery from an injury Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Antagonist Muscle Training for (Intermediate) Climbers