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Crag dogs

Crag dogs.

Crag dogs.

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Courtney Woods on AmCourtney Woods on Americana Exotica (V10)

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Courtney Woods climbCourtney Woods climbing on Shroom (V9) during this year’s Rock Rodeo, West Mountain, Hueco Tanks, TX. It was hot, the holds were greasy but people put in work and got the climbs done." Photo submitted by Alex Manelis

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corwhor:Coyne crack- 5.12-

corwhor:

Coyne crack- 5.12-

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cool rocks. cool clouds. cool kiwis: #climbnewzealand!...

cool rocks. cool clouds. cool kiwis: #climbnewzealand! #rockclimbing #newzealand #neuseeland #sportclimbing #climbing_lovers #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #climbinglife #limestone #adventureisoutthere http://ift.tt/2fM7tzK

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Who are you and how did you get to Brooklyn?

I’m Carmen (hi!). I was born in Nigeria, and raised in Niantic, CT. I’m a food photographer and cookie enthusiast – best known in the gym for bringing cookies for the staff and climbers when I’ve been baking. I moved to Brooklyn a bit over a year ago when I started working at a food website in Flatiron.

 

How did you start climbing?
 
In January, for what was probably my first-ever New Year’s resolution, I decided I would find an activity that would help me with my work-life balance. In high school, my gym class took a field trip to a rock climbing gym, where I found out that climbing was a sport – something people did regularly, with chalk…and shoes? What a concept! Ever since then, I’d been very curious to explore the world of climbing to see if it was something I’d be interested in. I remember my first day at BKB…I got a 30 minute crash course on bouldering, and I couldn’t send a V0. The next morning I came right back…and the next night. I couldn’t stay away. Two weeks later I had a membership and a week later a pair of shoes.
 
 

How has climbing changed your life?

It turns out climbing was just what I needed to peel myself away from long hours at the office. I felt my disposition change for the better and I was taking better care of myself. Climbing is a great stress reliever for me. It’s one of the only times of the day where not only am I away from my phone, but I’m not even wondering what messages I’m missing. I also noticed that my relationship with my body changed pretty soon after I started climbing. Simple motions like climbing a ladder or reaching for something have transformed. I’m aware of my body in ways I was not before. I’m still fascinated by little things I notice day to day. Plus, using my body and brain simultaneously to solve a problem, like playing the cello, is a great challenge.

 

What are your current biggest projects, on and off the wall?

On the wall: eliminating “can’t” from my climbing vocabulary. Sometimes it’s such a mind game, and it really is all in my head. “I can’t dyno”, “I can’t support my weight on that hold”, “I can’t pinch” etc etc. I’m working on trying new things and taking risks. You can’t climb anything, literally or figuratively, if you’re afraid of falling!

Off the wall: Amidst the country’s political turmoil and sustained fill-in-the-blank-phobias, I want to contribute to the voices speaking up against the ignorance. I’m working on a photo project with my Islamic community at NYU around Muslim-Americans, to combat stereotypes around Islam, an often misunderstood religion. The goal is for people to understand that Muslims practice a religion of peace, and their experiences in this country spread past any “box” others may try to put them in.

 
 
 
Who or what inspires you?
One thing that inspires me is the BKB community, no lie. There are so many talented people here. So many artists, and photographers in particular. I follow so many people from the gym on Instagram and will get inspired by a new sketch or trip to the Gunks or new taco spot. Sometimes I’ll go up to someone at the gym that I follow on Instagram and introduce myself IRL. I can float ideas by friends and hear what they’re up to. It’s like the gym is one big hub of buzzing talent, and every day I get to discover more of it. It’s also the gym that inspires me to try new recipes when I’m baking. I gotta keep it interesting for the taste testers; funky cookie flavors remind me to “stay weird”.

Say hi to Carmen next time you see her IRL, and you can follow her on Instagram here. Want to be featured on our blog? Hit us up at Ten adres pocztowy jest chroniony przed spamowaniem. Aby go zobaczyć, konieczne jest włączenie w przeglądarce obsługi JavaScript..
 

The post Community Spotlight: Carmen Ladipo of Brooklyn appeared first on Brooklyn Boulders Blog.

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IFSC comes with the great news that Sport Climbing has been added to the Youth Olympic Games (YOG) in Buenos Aires, which will begin on October 1, 2018. "IOC meetings are taking place this week in Lausanne, Switzerland, and yesterday the IOC Executive Board officially agreed to add three sports to the YOG Buenos Aires 2018 Sports Programme: Dance Sport, Karate and Sport Climbing. These sports are in addition to the 28 sports currently on the programme for the third summer of YOG. The Sport Climbing event will be a combined event of the three disciplines (Bouldering, Lead, Speed) for both males and females." IFSC is working with the Combined format together with the federations and they have also asked 8a to send our suggestions. The format will be presented the next spring. In practice, it is just to start training Speed climbing as most probably at least part of the selection will begin during the Youth World Championships in Austria starting 30/8 in 2017. Noteworthy is also that there will be a record number of European Youth Cups in 2017, out of which nine will take place before the Youth Worlds but there is just one Speed event on 27/8.

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coltre: where’s dorothy

coltre:

where’s dorothy

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coffeentrees: Dean Potter (1972-2015) @deanpotter moved through...

coffeentrees:

Dean Potter (1972-2015)
@deanpotter moved through the world with such force and passion, he could be difficult for most to comprehend. Never accepting the conventional boundaries of his pursuits, he was a visionary that opened peoples’ eyes to what was possible in climbing, BASE jumping and high lining, often integrating the different disciplines. A friend and mentor to many in the core community of climbers, slack liners and BASE jumpers, he will be remembered as one of the greats. RIP #respect #stonemonkey
http://ift.tt/1ebZZEH by natgeo

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Coffee in the mountaCoffee in the mountains.

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Cneifion arete

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climbspot:Holding the Swing on Jumping Jack Flash,...

climbspot:

Holding the Swing on Jumping Jack Flash, UK by Vertical Photography

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climbspot: Climber: Amber Dorius Route: Moe’s Valley...

climbspot:

Climber: Amber Dorius

Route: Moe’s Valley V4 

Photo by Vaughn

 

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climbofreakworld:

Haha what happened?! Back from Fontainebleau. Not the best conditions ever (flailing on this in a hilarious way - #wetholdproblems) but really good times working on some funky problems! Lovely to share the weekend with @ray.carter.948 and @philipduke ! @heartbeatclothes (at Fontainebleau, France)

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sublimeclimbingboarhair

Although many of today’s most relevant climbers were born after this movie was made (sigh, to be young again!), one of my favorite scenes from “Spaceballs” is when Mel Brooks, as “Yogurt,” a spoof on Yoda, says, “Merchandizing, merchandizing! Where the real money from the movie is made! Spaceballs-the T-shirt, Spaceballs-the Coloring Book, Spaceballs-the Lunch box, Spaceballs-the Breakfast Cereal, Spaceballs-the Flame Thrower.”

Climbing’s Best Accessories of 2016

If trends of the last two years are any indication, the climbing industry seems to have caught on to that fact that merchandise—and accessories—are where it’s at. You don’t see a ton of new carabiner manufacturers getting into the game these, but over the last few years, I’ve noticed that there are a lot more accessory products as well as indie companies producing them.

Is this a sign of a new level of commercialism that’s going to further corrupt our sport’s soul? Or is it a sign of a industry that’s finally beginning to mature?

I don’t know, and I’m not complaining. Gone are the days of home-made kneepads constructed out of tire rubber and bathtub liquid chalk. Embrace it, and accessorize yourself, fool!

In the spirit of the season, I’ve compiled a little list of damn fine gifts that just about any climber I know would probably enjoy. These are products I’ve used and can recommend. Buy them for yourself, for someone else, or don’t buy them at all—see if I care.

Thanks, happy holidays, and may the schwartz be with you.

Friction Labs Secret Stuff

SSlarge-600x600_grande If you’re anything like Eminem, you may find yourself with sweaty palms and vomit on your shirt (mom’s spaghetti). Eminem just had to go out on stage and spit some hot fire to overcome his demons. For you, it’s much easier. All you’ll need is to spit some Secret Stuff on those clammy mitts before giving your boulder or sport proj a burn. I’ve been a big fan of Friction Labs chalk since the beginning. I’m also happy to see that, after a number of failed packaging errors with their liquid chalk experiments, they’ve finally dialed in their unique blend of liquid chalk, called Secret Stuff, in a resealable tube that won’t cause this magic white goo to dry out.

Where to Buy: Friction Labs | $19

Alpine_Start_Banner

Alpine Start Instant Coffee

Sometimes, coffee is the crux—and that’s never a good problem for a climber to have. The idea of “instant” coffee has, for some, been ruined by the less-than-palatable offerings out there, which is why my friends Matt Segal and Alex Hanafin started Alpine Start Foods. They wanted to change the perception that instant coffee didn’t need to be bitter and bad. Surprisingly, this instant coffee is tasty, chocolatey, and rich. The best part is how portable these single serve packets are. No need for an elaborate coffee-brewing contraption up on a big-wall or in the backcountry. In fact, you don’t even need hot water because even the addition of cold water to this instant-coffee blend tastes just as good.

Where to Buy: alpinestartfoods.com | $8.49

CRKT NIAD

crkt niad This minimalist serrated blade is mandatory everyday carry for climbers. The NIAD (or, “Nose in a Day”), from knife manufacturer CRKT, is a .6 ounce knife that is designed to be clipped with a standard carabiner to your harness, and kept there for those moments when you will need it, whether that’s cutting tat from anchors or trimming the end of your core shot rope.

Where to Buy: Amazon| $23.13

rhino skin

Rhino Skin Solutions

I wrote about the game-changing performance benefits of using Antihydral—with its main skin-drying ingredient methenamine—years ago. Adam Ondra used Antihydral to keep his skin in good condition during his incredible Dawn Wall blitz. The problem with Antihydral is that it is expensive, as it’s imported from Germany, and dealing with that white residue on your fingers can get annoying. Plus, at 16% methenamine, many find Antihydral to be too strong and ultimately too damaging to skin.

Enter Rhino Skin, a new company started by two Smith Rock locals who wanted to offer a complete line of products that will keep your skin tough enough to handle day after day of sharp rock, but also, moisturized enough to prevent tears and speed regrowth. They offer five different creams: Repair, Performance, Dry, Calm, and Mikey’s Tip Juice.

If I had to recommend just two products, I’d suggest starting with Dry and Repair. Dry has only 8% methenamine, which seems to be a more climber friendly dosage. And, unlike Antihydral, it absorbs in your skin without any greasy or white residue. No more waking up with Antihydral smeared across your face! And Repair is a perfect post-climbing salve, with anti-inflammatory properties and a non-greasy application that starts healing battered tissue immediately.

Every person’s skin is different, and experimentation is required for individuals to determine frequency of use. But bottom line, Rhino Skin is the best stuff out there for optimizing your skin for high performance.

Where to Buy: Rhino Skin Solutions

totem cams

Totem Cams

OK, these aren’t “accessories,” per se. But they are a great supplement to an existing rack. If there’s one cam to rule them all, it’s the Totem Cam. These units have earned a cult following among climbers, especially Yosemite denizens who tout that Totem Cams work best in Yosemite’s flaring cracks. If you use a rack of Totem Cams for any period of time, you’ll quickly realize that they just work better—the tend to fit into more funky placements, and they seem to be way more solid/bomber. Totem Cams’ fully flexible stems allows force to be applied directly to the cam units themselves, eliminating issues with walking or torque. Totem Cams won’t be able to cover every situation, but just bout any trad climber’s rack would benefit from the addition of at least one of these badassmotherfuckers.

Where to Buy: Amazon | Backcountry | Mountain Gear

Climbing’s Best Accessories of 2016

Arcade Belt

This isn’t a super climbing-specific product, per se. But this stretchy, low-profile belt is not only a super useful accessory that fits perfectly under my harness, but it’s saved me from sporting the dreaded plumber’s-crack-while-climbing look that many dudes are unfortunate enough to bear. Since most dudes don’t get to climb in stretchy yoga pants, our britches tend to sag over the course of a climbing day. Having to constantly readjust your pants under your harness gets old. Arcade Belts are, by far, the best belts for sport climbers—but their utility extends to many outdoor/active pursuits. What I love most is the low-profile belt buckle. Plus, with dozens of designs, these belts are lit.

Where to Buy: Amazon | Backcountry

Go Gnarly

Whey800x8001-600x600 It’s training season, which means it’s time to hit the gym and get sore. Except that it’s pretty easy to stave off soreness and speed recovery through proper nutrition and supplementation. I’ve been experimenting with Go Gnarly’s product line this year after doing a bunch of research on the hundreds of products, many of them filled with sugar and bullshit, in this category. Go Gnarly sources high-quality proteins, such as whey from grass-fed humanely treated cows. I like the BCAA supplement, which really works best as a supplement used to maintain muscle mass during fasted states. If you’re trying to lose weight for climbing, but not lose muscle, supplementing with BCAAs is the way to go. I also use BCAAs as a “slow-drip” throughout a climbing day—taking sips of a bottle before and after each pitch. The whey protein is super tasty, and mixes reasonably well (a bottle blender helps). I usually chug a dose or two of this stuff at the end of a climbing day or work out. The result is no soreness, which, at my age, feels like a miracle.

Where to Buy: Amazon | Go Gnarly

 

LgStraponSlimOpen

SEND Slim Kneepads

In most places, kneepads are blunt, crude objects to be worn arond a climber’s leg like a pair of baggy overalls on farmer Bill. In Spain, “kneepads” are just called “pants”—and somehow everyone there climbs 9a.

But in Rifle, my local crag, which is famous its number of weak people who have tricked their way up really hard routes, kneepads are precision instruments.

As such, I’d been skeptical that SEND Kneepads—with their clunky-looking belt buckles—would be a huge improvement over my own homemade pads made from McDavid neoprene knee sleeves.

New this season are the SEND SLIM kneepads, which use thinner materials have a more nimble, less-bulky feel than SEND’s original design. For sport climbing, the SLIM pads get my vote.

For 90 percent of kneebars that climbers do, these pads are exceptional. Strapping on normal kneepads can feel like an onerous chore. What I love most about SEND pads is how much easier they are to put on and take off. For sport projecting, this is really a nice feature that allows you to take a pad off while hang-dogging (or even put one on, if you need to call a pad up, along with a stick-clip and a ham sandwich). I’ve never been a fan of putting a kneepad on over my pants, which pretty much has meant always wearing shorts. When the weather’s cold, this is less than ideal. But SEND kneepads are super easy to strap on over your pants—and they actually stick to your pants pretty well.

I’ll be using SEND pads for most of the kneebar-style climbing I do.

Where to Buy: SEND Climbing

Sublime Boar’s Hair Brush

sublimeclimbingboarhair Brushing chalk off the rock is necessary to improve friction, and remove unsightly marks. Boar’s-hair brushes seem to do the best job of lifting chalk off the rock—particularly slopers—with as little damage to the rock itself as possible. They’re much better than nylon, for example, at lifting chalk off the rock. By far the best boar’s-hair brush for climbers is made by Sublime, a new company that makes honking brushes with at least 14,000 bristles each. The sheer density of bristles is what makes Sublime brushes last so long, too.

A couple obvious downsides: the brushes can be difficult to carry on a chalk bag, making them better for bouldering than sport climbing. Also, the wide head won’t fit into small pockets—if that’s your thing.

Where to Buy: Amazon

The post Climbing’s Best Accessories of 2016 appeared first on Evening Sends.

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climbingyogagirl: http://markmanson.net/passion Read this and...

climbingyogagirl: http://markmanson.net/passion Read this and...

climbingyogagirl:

http://markmanson.net/passion

Read this and been thinking about it… I mean obviously I know where my passion lies but like all the people mark manson mentioned in his article, I am not sure if it’s sustainable. Besides, my skills are so mediocre. I’m no Ashima nor am I Kim Jain. If I’m good, I may stand a chance.

In any case I’m still working towards my goal, although right now I have no plans of leaving the army. Can I have the best of both worlds? Who knows maybe I can?

I linked up with qx from qxadventures recently. Let’s see if I can up my game by getting a sports climbing level 3 cert (in krabi woohoo!) And perhaps even rock climbing level 1.

And my eyes are still on my sports climbing instructor license as well. And an open water cert. I can do this!!! 2016 will be wonderful!

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climbinggifs: That happy redpoint feeling. SOURCE VIDEO: Jain...

climbinggifs:

That happy redpoint feeling.

SOURCE VIDEO: Jain Kim On the Rocks [5:19] by Red Bull [YouTube]

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The internet is full of advice on what to do when a finger injury happens, but most of it seems incomplete, conflicting, and really darn confusing. So, I decided to put together this step by step guide based on my own experience. Please note I’m not a medical specialist, and the list below only sums up what I got to know through reading and asking around. It worked for me, it might work for you, but possibly something else would […]

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Climbing LoversClimbing Lovers

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