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Wyoming

“Out last day in Chi

“Out last day in Chiang Mai was a little epic, but at least this Carrie McCanna photo of the cave multi-pitch is kinda cool. No more multi-pitch climbing for me…”

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yuukin030: “Throwing it back to having some fun in the sun....

yuukin030:

“Throwing it back to having some fun in the sun. Iron Man Traverse is a classic line in the buttermilks everyone should give it a try. ( if you haven’t already ) ☺️ yuukin030: “Sweet Lil FA flashback “Dark Roast” up in...

yuukin030:

“Sweet Lil FA flashback “Dark Roast” up in Juniper. V4-6? Few weeks ago. @kati_hetrick @rayanythingg @jaesonwp” by @alexjohnson89 on Instagram http://ift.tt/1YyObwY

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yuukin030: “Liz Maffett, Metolius Tech Rep, bouldering in...

yuukin030:

“Liz Maffett, Metolius Tech Rep, bouldering in Chattanooga TN. Eye Candy V6. #bouldering #climbing” by @metoliusclimbing on Instagram http://ift.tt/21Gad1B

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yuukin030: “Courage doesn’t always roar. Sometimes, courage is...

yuukin030:

“Courage doesn’t always roar. Sometimes, courage is a quiet voice at the end of the day saying “I will try again tomorrow.” -Mary Anne Radmacher

Haha that would be strange!

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Scott Channing Hall — WyomingInstall Theme
Wyoming
 

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Working towards theWorking towards the jug rail, Lynn Hill tick-tacs her way up The Zone (5.13), a Gunks route variation that joins into the upper roofs of Twilight Zone. Twilight Zone, or "TZ" as some know it, was first ascended on aid in 1963 by Art Gran and Phil Jacobus; Russ Clune and Jordan Mills made the first free ascent of Twilight Zone in 1993. From the Rock and Snow BLOG

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Winter wonderland. ❄️?☃#outdoorwomen #sheexplores #optoutside...

Winter wonderland. ❄️

Description: 

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Description: 

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Whitney Portal Arch and the Eastern Sierra

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When you do Christmas parties like adults ?

When you do Christmas parties like adults

Let’s talk about rappel knots! Because a lot of people ask me “what’s the best knot for tying rap lines together?” and that’s a darn good question.

The main thing you have to remember about rappelling is no one likes it. Because it’s tedious and/or stressful and a lot of people die because of small mistakes that turn bad.

There’s a lot of great information out there on the cyber about options for rappel knots. The big 3 are the grapevine, double overhand and figure 8 follow through. They all have pros and cons, and the figure 8 follow through is my favorite of the bunch. I have a fourth, even MORE favorite, and then there’s a 5th rappel knot that’s super important in my book, but we’ll get to that last. So let’s go down the list:

1. Grapevine (aka double fisherman’s).
This is a nice knot because it tightens so much it won’t come out. That’s also what’s not so nice about it—it can be really hard to untie again, and that’s the deal breaker for me personally. It can also be a little futzy to tie in the first place. It’s a great knot and perfectly safe, but it’s not my favorite.

2. Double overhand (aka Euro death knot).
What’s the Best Knot for Tying Rappel Ropes?
We used to really crack ourselves up about this knot 20 years ago. See, it SHOULD be the fastest knot to tie, but then you have to waste half an hour convincing your partner it’s ok to use, so then you lose all the time you saved tying it. [HAHAHAHA]

If do you use this one you have to leave a foot of tails, and it’s not a bad idea to add a second one just behind the first one as a backup. My friend Topher Donahue (read his Advanced Rock Climbing if you want to learn a ton about knots, techniques and safety) does a backup by adding a second overhand on just one of the tail ends, which I think is neat too. Either way, you might want to do a backup, whichever one you like best.

I like the double overhand, but it’s not the knot I’ve used the most for rappelling simply because I rarely climb with double ropes or two ropes of similar diameter. I almost always use a lead rope (usually 9.8 or 10 mm for traditional climbing) plus a 6 mm static tagline (but sometimes thinner or thicker). I was interested to read recently in Topher’s very thorough post about all this and more that it’s officially ok to use a double overhand with two ropes of different diameters (“The flat overhand has been tested to be reliable with ropes of different diameter such as with a 9.5 single lead rope and a 6mm haul line.”) which is definitely not what I’ve always thought. Though it’s apparently safe, the double overhand has always looked janky to me with very different size ropes and the last thing I want when I’m rappelling is the feeling my knot looks janky. So I’ve mainly used:

3. Figure 8 follow through.
What’s the Best Knot for Tying Rappel Ropes?
It’s definitely never coming out by itself, you tie it every time you tie into a climbing rope and so you probably won’t mess it up even if it’s dark and storming, and it’s much easier to untie than a grapevine. There’s a reason (well a lot of reasons) the figure 8 is the single most used and trusted knot in climbing. You can also use this same knot to tie ropes together for top roping–another selling point because ‘keep it simple stupid’ is my MO for all situations, which has proven to be a pretty good policy since it’s me I’m dealing with here ;).

But let’s get to the dark horse knot, and my personal favorite:

4. Double figure 8 follow through (aka, paranoid rappeller’s best friend)
What’s the Best Knot for Tying Rappel Ropes?
This is a knot I started using when I was climbing a lot in Patagonia. If you’ve climbed there, most of your absolute worst nightmares involve rappelling for hours in storms and things like piton anchors pulling out, ropes blowing sideways and up to be caught on blank sections of wall, your partner suddenly disappearing with the ropes, and having to chop your ropes to make anchors until you’re doing 50 foot rappels down the bottom thousand feet of Torre Egger. And then of course all the normal stuff like knots coming untied or rapping off the ends. So in order to chip away at my growing mountain of rappel related paranoia, I started using a knot that can never untie itself: a double figure 8 follow through. At the same time, it’s always easy to untie (by you, not the rope gremlins).

It creates a larger knot and some people would not like the greater snag potential, which is a legitimate concern. A selling point of the double overhand is the one “flat” side, making it less snaggy when pulling. Personally, I’ve never felt either figure 8 follow through gave me a problem by being more snaggy on the pull, but it could.

It does take a few seconds longer to tie the double figure 8 follow through than a single one, or a double overhand for that matter. To me, donating an extra few seconds to tie your ropes together one time isn’t really a deal breaker. If it’s going to be countless rappels over a multi-hour time period, I’ll trade a few extra seconds of knot tying to get one single thing in the rappel endurathon I don’t have to worry about (i.e. the rope gremlins untying the knot).

For the same reason, the double figure 8 follow through is also a great knot for tying top ropes together. And as a special side bonus, it’s also excellent for tying fixed ropes together (for example, the always core-shotted lines up to Heart Ledge on El Cap). If you leave a little extra slack on one of the sections between the two knots, you won’t have to use a jumar to pass the knot while rappelling (if you’re not rapping with a haulbag), as it gives you a perfect little clip-in point between the lines.
What’s the Best Knot for Tying Rappel Ropes?

Last but definitely not least, I want to talk about:

5. Double overhand backup for the ENDS of your rap lines (aka, DO THIS!)
What’s the Best Knot for Tying Rappel Ropes?
You’ll notice in my pictures of the single and double figure 8 follow throughs that the ends of the rap lines are tied in a double overhand. That’s because I like to use it for tying the ends together to make sure I don’t accidentally rap off them.

Some people like to tie one knot in each end—-I would never ever do that because it opens the door for someone (me) to forget to untie one of the knots before pulling the rap lines. It also opens the door to forget to tie one of the knots and this could also lead to not only rapping off the end, but also taking the ropes with you, depending on which side you forgot to tie, which could also put your partner in an equally terrible situation. If none of that ever happens in my life, it will be too soon and that’s why tying separate knots in the ends of lines is against my Rappelling Laws.

If you tie only one knot in both ends you can never ever make either of those mistakes. Well, you can make the first one, but if you do your ropes will still be tied in a closed loop and you can just untie the knot that comes to you and pull them down anyway (instead of proceeding to epic out beyond belief and having debates with your partner about whether anyone should prusik up the rope which is now (possibly) “fixed” at the anchor above you with a single overhand or fisherman’s against a rap ring.)

This backup knot is not going to get caught on something, because if there’s any doubt about that happening (wind, etc), you’re going to rappel with the ends coiled over your lap (another Rappelling Law on the books).

Here’s my bottom line advice about the best knot for rap lines: try different things and figure out which you like best based on your personal preferences and priorities in a given situation. This may be one knot only forever, it will probably be different knots at different times. It’s good to know what different knots have to offer, to make the best decision for you.

Read more http://stephdavis.co/blog/whats-the-best-knot-for-tying-rappel-ropes/

I bought a banjo last year.

I remember it was raining outside, and I finally decided to spend the few hundred bucks I’d been stashing away for just that sort of weather. Maybe I’d been listening to a lot of Old Crow Medicine Show. I don’t remember it that well, I guess.

Dirtbag Darling for Reebok.

But I do remember feeling that little pang of determination. “You’ve always wanted to play the banjo. If you go out and buy one tonight, by this time next year, you could be playing it.” I remember plucking the one token banjo off the wall at the music shop, running my hand over the glossed edges, thumbing a string, and deciding now was as good a time as any.

“When you learn how to play that, you should get a tattoo of a banjo…on your knee,” said the shop clerk, pausing for comedic effect. I smiled obligingly and decided that’s exactly what I would do, only I’d tell everyone it was my idea.

It’s been nearly a year. No tattoo.

A forest shrouded in mist.

Ok, so you probably think you know where this is going, and I can probably skip the part where I tell you about how, statistically, New Year’s resolutions are a waste of time. I don’t need to add my voice to the chorus of New Year’s nay-sayers, because if resolutions work for you, then that’s great. I wish you well on your anti-statistic rebellion. Maybe the force be with you.

Historically, they don’t seem to be working out as well for me. My birthday falls close to the start of the new year, which means two of my self-imposed self-evaluations happen in quick secession. Which, without fail, sends me into a mini-depression that’s one-part winter and one-part unfulfilled personal goals. Mix well and serve with whiskey.

Dirtbag Darling for Reebok.

I have the unfortunate habit of finding ways to busy myself just enough so that my passions—writing, photography, climbing, and, of course, banjo lessons—have to take a ticket and wait. And wait. But the truth is that I’m not that busy. At least, not busy enough that I can’t find an hour a day to devote to these things.

The real problem is that these things feel important to me. They have weight. They aren’t just something I do for work, they actually say something about who I am.

These things feel important, so the prospect of failing at them is terrifying. I’m paralyzed by my own standards.

I really like this quote from author Mark Manson: “Before you are able to be good at something and do something important, you must first suck at something and have no clue what you’re doing. That’s pretty obvious. And in order to suck at something and have no clue what you’re doing, you have to embarrass yourself in some shape or form, often repeatedly. And most people try to avoid embarrassing themselves, namely because it sucks.”

Sap running down a tree trunk.

No one was born a climber or mountain biker. No one came out of the womb as a best-selling author. Some people have more natural talent in certain areas than others, but most people who are “good” at something got that way because they worked really hard at it. We all sucked at walking back when we were drooling, gurgling babies—we fell, cried and probably looked like tiny, bald drunk people, but we kept walking until we were good at it. Some of us kept improving on our walking skills until we became Olympic speed walkers (which, as it turns out, still looks pretty embarrassing).

The point is, if you care about something, it will scare you. It should scare you.

Dirtbag Darling for Reebok.

And if you care enough about what other people think to avoid doing it, then you aren’t doing something you really care about.

So, maybe if resolutions aren’t your thing, you can write down a list of things you want to embarrass yourself doing this year. Right now, I’m really embarrassed to say I can’t play a single song on that banjo. But if I start again today, and then again the next day, and so on, then maybe one day I won’t be. I’ll never be perfect at it, but #PerfectNever made for good music anyway.

What will you embarrass yourself at?

Written in Partnership with Reebok.

Reebok logo.

This post was created in partnership with Reebok as part of the #PerfectNever campaign. If you’re interested in supporting or working with Dirtbag Darling, please visit our Contact Page

 

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If I’ve learned one thing in climbing, it’s anything that can happen will happen. And so I try to plan accordingly. For example, I can’t even count the number of times I’ve pulled a rope through the chains after rappelling or lowering, and the end arrived to the ground tied in a perfect figure 8. I’ve heard scary stories for years about how if you have too good of a fingerlock and your feet slip your finger could get ripped off, and like everyone else I was sure it was really impossible…until it actually happened to a climber last season on “Fingers in a Lightsocket” (of all routes) at Supercrack Buttress.

My dental hygienist is a climber (it’s Moab, of course she is), and when I went in to get my teeth cleaned today and was stuck there unable to do anything except make horrified exclamation sounds, she told me this crazy tale of how 3 of her front teeth were knocked out three weeks ago because she took a lead fall while trying to clip, with the rope in her mouth, on “Three Strikes And You’re Out” (of all routes) at Battle of the Bulge. Since she had all her front teeth, I was obviously very confused by the story. She went on to explain that she conveniently knew exactly what to do in that situation, and this is valuable information I think everyone ought to know! (I mean what are the odds of the climber this happens to being a dental hygienist who knows exactly the right thing to do in what turns out to be a highly time sensitive situation? So it was super unlucky, but also pretty darn lucky, from my point of view.) And a quick google search revealed this kind of thing CAN and WILL happen.

After she decked onto the ledge, she discovered that her two front teeth had been yanked out to a horizontal position and the one next to them was actually out and in her mouth. !!!!!

So the valuable information is: apparently you have 20 minutes after a tooth comes out from the roots to get it back in place. If it’s back in place in less than 20 minutes, there’s an extremely high chance that the roots will heal back into place and the tooth won’t die. After 20 minutes up to an hour, the chances are pretty good but not as good. After an hour, no chance, your tooth is gone.

But there’s more….

When you put the teeth back into place, you don’t want to touch the roots ever: first of all, there’s a delicate mesh or web or something like that around the roots (she compared it to butterfly wings) that will be damaged if you touch it, and then the tooth will die. So if the tooth is out and on the ground and it looks dirty, see if anyone has saline solution that you can squirt on the roots to clean it. Failing that, pour some water on the roots. But don’t touch the roots! In this case, you are definitely going to need antibiotics later–there’s a really high chance of infection and especially with this being part of your head, you are going to have to take precautions. But these are later problems.

Secondly, when you do put the teeth back in place, however you put them is how they’re going to stay! Apparently some people have been so flustered they shoved the tooth in backward. Well, it stays backward. Same goes for crooked, or uneven. Try to do a nice job.

My hygienist, knowing all this, immediately put her teeth back in place and carefully lined them up and set them nice and snug before her gums started swelling. Then she drove straight back to Moab and went to the dentist (to get antibiotics and some actual medical care). Now, 3 weeks, later, it looks like nothing ever happened. Had she not put the teeth back in place, she’d be out 3 front teeth right now and getting some super expensive dental work (though she does get a discount).

Hopefully you never take a fall and knock out your teeth while in the backcountry, but if you do, just remember these few things: don’t touch the roots, if you have to rinse them do it with saline solution or water, set them back in place as soon as possible and do it nice! and get thee to the dentist asap.

other small advice is:
try not to put the rope in your mouth when clipping, or at least try to do it less. if you do:
try really hard not to fall right then. if you do:
try to scream instead of biting the rope 🙂

Read more http://stephdavis.co/blog/what-to-do-when-your-teeth-get-knocked-out-because-you-fell-clipping-with-the-rope-in-your-mouth/

For most climbers, warming up is something you simply get through as quickly as possible.  Most seem to treat it as a necessary evil and take whatever possible shortcuts to cut down the amount of time they spend on it.  However, warming […]

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want to get one of twant to get one of these for the park this summer! :)

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wanderlog: Torres Del Paine,Puerto Natales.

wanderlog:

Torres Del Paine,Puerto Natales.

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