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Rockland South Africa - Thug Edition

I’ve been finding it difficult to write about climbing these days. After visiting the Outdoor Retailer show, it felt petty to post up about a bunch of climbing gear when so many issues of greater importance were dominating the news.

It’s also been hard not to get sucked down the bad-news rabbit hole each morning, following links posted on Facebook and reading stories from the major news sites. (I’ve also been comparing articles on CNN to those on Fox News to see how differently each place covers the same story, a very interesting exercise if you have the time.)

In addition, it’s been a snowy winter, so I haven’t touched real rock since Thanksgiving. I came into this winter motivated to get out as much as I could, but the few good weather days haven’t lined up with my schedule and so here we are. I’ve had a few days out on the ice, but it’s been so warm (#climatechangesucks) that the local ice was only safe for a short period of time, and now I wouldn’t go anywhere near the little that’s left.

All of this has added up to adventure being pushed to the background in my life. Thankfully, the dry spell came to an end this last week when I got to take a group of students into a hut in the Elk Mountains. It was a busy week of preparation, and so I didn’t have time to stay caught up on the news. On one hand, I was scared to think about what I was missing, but on the other it was a relief to not to be so wrapped up in wondering if today was the day the world would end at the hands of the angry orange man-boy.

A Question of Balance

Evening light on Taylor Peak.

Going into a hut is always a refreshing experience, as life distills down to the basics. Put wood on the stove for warmth, melt snow for water, make meals with the food we packed in and chase turns during the day. This trip was part of an avalanche education course, and we got to see a few interesting things in the snowpack, as well as ski some great terrain. Exploring the mountains in the winter on skis is such an efficient method of travel and I’m always amazed at the ease with which you can move around the winter landscape.

We had a motivated crew and on our first touring day, they were all down for one last lap on a slope we hadn’t yet laid tracks into. As we ripped our skins at the top and prepared to shred, the sun broke through the clouds and a soft, pinkish-orange light played across the gendarmed ridges of Castle Peak in the distance. It was a show of epic grandeur, and none of us wanted to leave while it was playing out. All too soon, we reluctantly succumbed to the rumbling in our bellies and the promise of a warm meal at the hut in the darkening valley below.

A Question of Balance

iPhone 5, not so great at capturing the magic that was happening at this moment. Had to try though.

Later in the trip, we got the crew up above treeline into an alpine wonderland. Craggy peaks, snowy chutes and epic ridgelines surrounded us, making us feel small while at the same time fueling dreams of future adventures. That night I stood outside the front of the hut, watching the full moon illuminate the surrounding peaks and wispy clouds that raced across a backdrop of crystalline stars set against an indigo sky.

And in this blissful moment, everything felt ok. This simple life, the need for adventure, the need to disconnect. Yes, there are very real problems we are facing right now, and running away isn’t the answer to any of them, but that doesn’t mean we should stop doing the things we love, the things that bring joy and meaning to our lives.

A Question of Balance

It doesn’t get much better than this.

Like so many, my bubble came bursting apart the night of November 8th, but also like many, I’ve been driven into action, and my hope grows each day as I see a powerful tide rising up with people finding their voices and ways to fight back.

We have a long and arduous road to get things moving in a positive direction, but I believe adventure still has a place in it all, a place in any balanced life. And that also gives me hope, and maybe I can even start writing about climbing again.

Read more http://www.splitterchoss.com/2017/02/16/a-question-of-balance/

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Cody Roth, #6 in his Lead World Cup debut back in 2003, has done the FA of Me I Eat Dust 9a in Texas. "I'm not at liberty to give the name or location of this secret spot, but if someone is interested in trying these routes, access can likely be arranged" (c) Kilian Fischhuber - This route does the crux of I, Me, Mine, (downgraded to 8c+ which Kilian actually did second go and he also flashed an 8b+) then carries into an 8A+/8B boulder problem with no rest in between. It's basically a 20 move sequence where only one hand can be chalked. Time wise, last year after I did I Me Mine, I started trying this thing but tore a pulley three days in. I recovered and made some progress in the Spring, but then Summer arrived. I resumed trying it in October or November before suffering the breaking hold set back. Hard to say how many days I put in, for sure more than anything else I've done, but I have little to zero interest in grading anything harder than 9a, I'm old school! A few weeks ago I did my first 8b+ flash and red pointed two 8c+ in a handful of tries, although I downgraded one of them. I guess I'm in a good vein of form. I'm now 33 and climbing maybe better than ever mainly because I know it's fleeting. In my 20's I wasn't very good at prioritizing, I'd stay up until 3 partying and wake up at 9 to go climbing. I never wanted my climbing to be forced or planned. I didn't want to overthink it. I owe a lot of my recent success to my girlfriend and my community here in Austin, they keep me grounded and motivated.

Read more https://www.8a.nu/

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Loic Zehani, who did two 9a FAs last year, has done his sixth 8c+, Alien Carnage in Castillon in just six tries. Check the video. In the 8a ranking game the 15-year-old is #9.

Read more https://www.8a.nu/

Melloblocco has been the biggest climbing festival in the world for several years. The dates for 2017 are 11-14 May and already, after 48 h from opening the registration, more than 400 boulderers have signed up.

Read more https://www.8a.nu/

In 1991, Jeff Lowe went on a solo mission up a line on the North Face of the Eiger—an accomplishment many considered crazy. The name of the route, Metanoia referenced a Greek term meaning “a fundamental change of thinking.”

It wasn’t until December 30, 2016—a whopping 25 years later—that this route finally saw its second ascent by climbers Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist, and Roger Schaeli. This week’s Friday Flick Pick features their epic adventure on Metanoia.


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The post 2nd Ascent of ‘Metanoia’ on North Face of Eiger appeared first on Moja Gear.

Read more http://mojagear.com/friday-flick-pick/2017/02/10/2nd-ascent-metanoia-north-face-eiger/

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See highlights from the 2017 Bouldering Open National Championship, showcasing the most explosive dynos, unfathomable sloper moves, and other beastly displays of bouldering prowess.

Top men’s finishers

  1. Nathaniel Coleman
  2. Kai Lightner
  3. Aleksei Rubtsov
  4. Sean Bailey
  5. Shawn Raboutou

Click here to see complete results.
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The post 2017 Bouldering Open National Championship Highlights appeared first on Moja Gear.

Read more http://mojagear.com/bouldering/2017/02/15/2017-bouldering-open-national-championship-highlights/

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Moritz Perwitzschky is in the flow, which he proved doing 15 boulders graded 7C and harder during the last six days, including four 8A+'s and one 8B. To make his recent performance even more impressive, he has done 31 boulders 8A and harder only in 2017. One of his tricks to keep warm. New video. "For keeping our Fingers warm we heat up some stones to put them in the calkbag which works quite well." (c) Hannes Pablitschko

Read more https://www.8a.nu/

“Your fingerprints all over who I am now.”
- Christina Grimme (via h-o-r-n-g-r-y)

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“I never stopped loving you. Not even for a second. Even when I hated you.”
- Charles Sheehan-Miles, Just Remember to Breathe(via h-o-r-n-g-r-y)

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:)

Read more Slashface (Uncut)Slashface (Uncut)Slashface (Uncut)Slashface (Uncut)Slashface (Uncut)

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sierrablaircoyle: #WCW right here ? @claire.bukowski (at Focus...

sierrablaircoyle:

#WCW right here

roxyclothing:Sea daze with Mainei Kinimaka and Monyca Eleogram...

roxyclothing:

Sea daze with Mainei Kinimaka and Monyca Eleogram #WildAloha
roxy.com

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Putting up a new problem with the SoIll bubbie volumes ? and...

Putting up a new problem with the SoIll bubbie volumes Pro Rock Climber – Sierra Blair-Coyle Interview! (Mimi Bonny - Eat Not Diet)

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Power of Amida - LRCPower of Amida - LRCPower of Amida - LRCPower of Amida - LRCPower of Amida - LRC

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photosbygriffin: Decided to offer a selection of my photographs...

photosbygriffin:

Decided to offer a selection of my photographs as prints. If you’re looking for something to put on your walls, check them out here!

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Featuring Olympic stars and stories from across the globe and continuing the excitement of the Olympic Games all year round, the Olympic Channel is now available in Chinese, French, German, Italian, Brazilian Portuguese and Latin American Spanish in addition to English.

The launch of the six additional languages yesterday on the Olympic Channel represents the first non-English languages to be added to the global digital platform. The Olympic Channel also plans to release four additional languages in the coming months including Arabic, Japanese, Korean and Russian versions.

“This is a great way to reach more people around the world and to tell the great Olympic stories in a way that connects directly to them,” said IOC President Thomas Bach. “The launch of the Olympic Channel platform in multiple languages ensures that more fans around the world will be able to discover and explore stories that will help them to connect with their favourite sports and athletes in their own language.”

Please click here to watch videos of Sport Climbing athletes and events on the Olympic Channel, including Petra Klingler's emotional victory last year at the IFSC Climbing and Paraclimbing World Championships in Paris.

Read more http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/news/item/881-olympic-channel-in-six-new-languages

oldfarmhouse:http://instagram.com/harryandfrank

oldfarmhouse:

http://instagram.com/harryandfrank

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Mayan Smith-Gobat -Mayan Smith-Gobat - internationally prolific rock climber from New Zealand.

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I met Fletch in a dirt driveway in Moab where we were both living at the time: me in the back of a truck, Fletch in a small camper trailer with her current human, Scott. The driveway belonged to my best friend Lisa, a desert climber with a tendency to foster strays of all species, Scott was the brother of Lisa’s ex who stuck around after the ex took off. Scott was a handy guy to have around the house and the driveway–he supported his passion for travel through construction and electrical work. He had once declared over a few beers that if he ever got a dog, he’d name it after those Chevy Chase movies, so that’s how Betty M Fletcher got her name.

About a year previous, Betty M been picked up off the Navajo reservation, starving, by a traveling climber headed to Moab, and that’s how she ended up in Lisa’s driveway and then in Scott’s trailer. He raised her with love and significantly more discipline than most Moab dogs saw, and he vowed she would never be on a leash. I worked nights as a waitress and climbed and ran in the desert during the day, and tried to figure out if I should go back to law school the rest of the time. At first I didn’t notice Fletch much because she was so quiet and self-sufficient—most dogs I knew seemed to spend all their time running around the crags kicking up dust, barking, stepping on ropes and stealing lunches.
Love Dogs
Fletch was a beautiful little cattle dog mix, white, brown and black, with a thick ruff of white fur and loose skin around her neck that you could gather up with two hands into a big ball. She was independent, dignified, and smart as a whip, and often dismissed dogs twice her size with a single, lofty growl. Fletch was known around the driveway as the “poster child for dogs” because even people who claimed to dislike dogs offered to take her anytime Scott talked about wanting to travel somewhere out of the country. Gradually Fletch started spending her days out in the desert with me instead of at Scott’s jobsite, and when he set off for a work trip to New Zealand via Antarctica without a return date, she moved into the truck with me. The life of a traveling climber can be lonely, but Fletch and I shared hundreds, probably thousands, of miles of highway and trail. We grew up together.

When Fletch was only 11, her back legs became unsteady. The vet diagnosed her with spinal arthritis, and within the year I needed to carry her or pull her in a wagon to the crags where I would settle her on a bed while I climbed.
Love Dogs
After a while, she needed a diaper at night, because the arthritis also made her a little incontinent in her sleep, and it was cleaner that way.
Love Dogs
My husband Mario constructed carpet-covered ramps around the house and converted an old baby jogger into a cart for her back legs to see if that would make walking better for her. It didn’t, so he carried her in his backpack for hikes.
Love Dogs
Fletch had become uncharacteristically affectionate and wanted to be together all the time, which both broke and filled my heart. Fletch was so stoic physically, it had always been impossible to tell if anything hurt her. She still wanted to eat and she still wanted to be together. I thought she was still happy, which was what really mattered.
Love Dogs
But one morning, I knew she was going. I spent the day crying and cuddling with her, and then the night lying beside her bed on the floor, listening as she breathed until she stopped. When day came, Mario helped me carry her little body to the vet’s office, and he held me up as we staggered out without her.

For well over a year, I couldn’t even imagine the idea of having another dog. I didn’t want another dog. I wanted Fletch, so much it hurt. But over time I had to admit that not having a dog sucked.
Love Dogs
One day a small and very strange looking puppy ended up in my driveway—she had been picked up off the Navajo res starving, miles from anywhere, by a guy working on electrical poles. I had 4 requirements for any potential future dog I might ever have: must be female, must be a res dog, must have pointy ears like Fletch, and ABSOLUTELY no puppies. This creature in my driveway was possibly 3 months old. She was a bedraggled black, grey and brown. Her ears flopped. She looked like a tiny hyena having a bad hair day.

Cajun ate frantically for a month until one day she was full and had no further interest in food. An odor of cow manure emanated from her for weeks despite frequent bathing—we could only assume she’d been eating cow pies to survive. Cajun was nothing like Fletch, in all the worst ways. She was rambunctious, ungrateful, rebellious and chewed on us ceaselessly.
Love Dogs
I didn’t know much about puppies, but Cajun seemed to be the archetype of all things awful about puppies, without any of the good things. I wondered if we could take her back to the res and swap her for a more appreciative critter.
Love Dogs
Mario was perhaps the most kind and patient person on the planet, and yet there were moments when he seemed to be at his wits’ end in how to manage this whirling dervish of a dog.
Love Dogs
But despite all of her awful qualities, Cajun was Mario’s first dog, and he fell desperately and hopelessly in love with her.
Love Dogs
Every night when I went to bed I fantasized that an angel would come down from heaven and offer to let me trade Cajun and get Fletcher back.
Love Dogs
When Cajun was about a year and a half old, I realized one day with a start that I kind of liked her. And she was getting cuter.
Love Dogs
Love Dogs
After 2 years, I had fallen completely in love with this leaping, prancing, exuberant creature, who could sprint like a cheetah and climb like a goat.
Love Dogs
I remembered my angel fantasy with horror, almost sick at the thought of being asked to choose between my dogs. Fletch was my sensei. Cajun was my wildchild. For the first time, I understood that I loved Cajun with all my heart and I also loved Fletch with all my heart, and love doesn’t have math. I realized that love is not “or”, love is “and”.

A year later, Mario died in Italy as we flew our wingsuits from the top of a mountain. I was in front and Mario left the cliff behind me. When I landed, he wasn’t there. Since the day we’d met, I’d never even imagined a life without Mario, though occasionally I worried we might not get to share our nineties together since he was 7 years older. Through the first black weeks and months of grief, Cajun and I huddled together at night in a bed that was too big and tried to understand this new, empty version of life. At first it didn’t seem worth it to me. We kept going, and slowly I found it was.

I fell in love again, with Ian, and when it happened I didn’t question it or second guess, though I’d been warned by many that I would. I didn’t struggle with fear or sadness or doubt, thoughts of how life ends and begins, of how to fit together the past and the future, because Fletcher and Cajun taught me something about love. Love is the one thing that has a beginning but not an end, that makes more space the more it grows. It’s the one thing that lasts forever.
Love Dogs

Read more http://stephdavis.co/blog/love-dogs/

According to the French Mountaineering Federation, IFSC has reduced the maximum climbing time in the semis and finals in Lead competitios in 2017 from eight to six minutes. Interesting is that 10 years ago climbers were allowed to spend 15 minutes up on the route. Since then 8a has several times suggested that six minutes should be the maximum and also that time should decide on ties, which has been the case for some years now. IFSC has also reduced the time in bouldering finals to four minutes instead of 4+ minutes. Last year, the finalists were allowed to start the last attempt at 3.59, resting as much as possible. In 2017, they will have to start about 3.30 in order to top out before the bell. In practice, this might make the final attempt more exciting for the spectators. Most probably, some guys will fail due to the new time constraint. Furthermore, it will make the final more of an endurance challenge as the boulders will have to rest less in between attempts and also in between boulders.

Read more https://www.8a.nu/

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