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Another two 8A (+) by Alex Puccio

Anja Zapolska in Osp, Slovenia.

Anja Zapolska in Osp, Slovenia.

andygullsten: What a
andygullsten: What a view!!!!
ahnsight: Coz Daddy V6 Castle Rock State Park, CA
Coz Daddy V6
Castle Rock State Park, CA
adventure lustadventure lust
Roberto Podio jumps two grades up and does his first 9a, Grandi Gesti in Sperlonga. "I started to try the route in December and the movements came naturally from the very start. I honestly thought that I would have done it in a short time but I have to admit that I had underestimated it, as you need a huge dose of concentration and endurance to do it. It is extraordinary for me to join the èlite of people who can do the 9a, as it is an incredible emotion and this demonstrates that with the right amount of determination you can achieve everything. A special thanks to the Vertical Park gym and to all the friends who accompanied and supported me in this experience."
Pietro Biagini, who did his first 8c+ almost two years ago, has done Anchorage 8c+ in Albenga, and he only needed two sessions. In the Combined Youth World Championship, the Italian got the bronze but later it turned out that the calculation was wrong and he was #4. What is you plan and ambition 2017? I really don't know if I can be part of the team that will go to the Olympics in 2020, but this year one of my most important objectives in addition to the world championships in Innsbruck will be definitely the qualification for the Youth Olympic Games in Buenos Aires in 2018. In fact this year I will train more the Speed ​​for having more chances in the combined! Of course I also have many ideas for the rock and I would also participate in some of the World Cup. A dilemma for Pietro is that it is two hours driving from where he lives to the nearest IFSC Speed wall so he also agrees that it would be better if there were verious speed climbing routes.
Piotr Schab, who has already done four 9a's in February, has onsighted L'espiadimonis 8c in Margalef, which originally was an 8c+. Cold fingers, free mind, good flow, big fight!" In the 8a ranking game, the 20 year old Pole is #3.
Toshi Takeuchi has done the FA of Kuzo 8C in Mie, which adds an 8B dyno intro to Borsalino 8B+. In the 8a ranking game, the Japanese is #2. "Finally stick the Dyno from start!!!! 7 moves 8B+ and 1 move 8B (Crux Dyno). I am very proud to add new vision for this legendary problem. Could be C+ but I don't have such a experience to judge that border line. Time will tell:) On to the next!!!"
Ida Kupś, who was #7 in the Boulder Youth Championship 2016, has done her first 8c, Fabelita in Santa Linya. (c) Wojtek Kozakiewicz tells us that in fact it was on her last day before going back to Poland. "I was on a three-week climbing trip in Spain, mostly in Santa Linya, except few sessions in Oliana, Terradets and others nearby crags. This route was my main goal so I focused especially on it. I think it was more or less 10 days of work. In 2017 I'd like to focus on bouldering comps, especially to prepare as good as I can for the WYCH in Insbruck. I plan to participate in some senior World Cups, probably Switzerland, Germany and Japan. I hope to have time for some small climbing trips outdors, mainly in Poland and maybe somewhere abroad during the summer holidays. These are my plans for now, but who knows what future will bring."
Alex Puccio, who previously has done two 8B+'s, has done her sixteenth 8B, Luther in Hueco Tanks." A bit more of a battle then I thought it was going to be. Would be an amazing climb if the beginning was higher off the ground, but the Chablanke wall is SO beautiful! Bigger power moves into an awesome climb! Skin is getting tougher for the real proj!!! :)"
Caroline Sinno, who had sent three 8A+'s previously, has done Miroir de vanité 8B (A+) in Fontainebleau. In the 8a ranking game, the owner of Crimpoil is #11. "Nice trav opened by Jean-Pierre Bouvier back in the days on the boulder of haute tension in Rempart. I found the moves very cool and it's pretty short and intense (around 15 moves) so I didn't feel I was pump but more struggling for the last hard move and a bit scared for the top out. Good training for my other project la cicatrice! I was thinking more 8a+ for the grade but I don't know?"
lt;gt; Pete Robins on Pu<> Pete Robins on Pump Up The Jam (8c) Pigeon's Cave, North Wales.
#escalada #climb #fr
#DefendersofFun is a look into the adventurous lives of outdoor advocates who are working to better the outdoor community and protect the wild places we have fun in. Their story, their own words. Share your outdoor story on Instagram@DefendersofFun#DefendersofFun.

“I was raised on a swampy Florida river that emptied to the Atlantic Ocean. During hurricane season, my town surfed. In the autumn, my dad took us in a VW camper van to the mountains. In the winter, we went to coastal Maine. My love of the outdoors is all thanks to my family and where and how they raised me.
I’ve lived in Canada’s Maritimes, Utah, Florida, Maine, New Hampshire, Virginia, and now I’m in British Columbia. But, weird as it might be, my car is where I feel most as home. I lived in my car for three years. Several times after my return from life on the road, I felt homesick for my car! Then I realized, “I’m an adult, dang it. I can sleep wherever I want to.” So, from time to time, I wrap up with my sleeping bag in my car.
I witnessed my female peers become pregnant or drop out of school.
I moved to Utah in grade school for a few years, where I learned to love skiing and climbing. With my return to Florida —specifically southwest Florida — I had a really hard time accessing outdoor activities. I didn’t know anyone who biked or went canoeing, and since we moved to the Gulf side of the state, I didn’t have access to surfing.
There weren’t many positive outlets for the younger generation in that area. Over the next few years, I witnessed a good chunk of my female peers become pregnant, end up in juvenile court, or drop out of school.
Gina Rock Rock Climbing
I moved back to Utah after high school, but often thought back to my high school experience and the female friends who fell prey to social pressures. It hit me that adventure sports would have been a positive avenue for them to gain confidence, choose healthier paths, and pursue life with clearer purpose. Having a crew that went outdoors and cheered each other on would have been life-changing for them.
It needs to be done with sincerity, not for popularity or to see if you can get free outdoor gear.
I started OWA (Outdoor Women’s Alliance) in 2007 in Salt Lake City, which is now a volunteer-run nonprofit organization that serves women worldwide through the lens of adventure. Most only know us from one or two slivers of our organization—our Instagram feed or our Grassroots Teams—but we have a three-fold mission to strengthen the individual, communities, and to be a resource for outdoor women worldwide. For the past ten years, we’ve done everything through volunteer hours, offering all of our programs and mentorships for free.
Over the past two years, I’ve really noticed a shift with the outdoor industry’s deliberate focus on women’s adventure. We’ve seen a massive upswing in social media channels that push the visibility of women in adventure.
The buzz is encouraging, but it needs to be done with sincerity, not for popularity or to try to get free outdoor gear. It’s not a bandwagon that we should jump on and off if it falls out of vogue. Women the world over need dedicated organizations that not only share the beautiful moments of women in adventure, but the struggles as well—from the perspectives of all classes, all ethnicities, all cultures, and all corners of the world. It’s not a trend; it’s a movement.
Goats Gina www.boulderingnonline.pl Rock Climbing News
Women want communities of supportive outdoor women to get out with. It’s an enduring issue that OWA’s grassroots teams—and nowcrowd funder—area direct result of. Our teams serve more than 8,000 members in seven regions, but many people fall outside these regions. To solve this, one of our long-time volunteers came up with the idea for an online program where women can connect, grow skills, and build in-person communities right where they are. Since there are major costs associated with coding, platform maintenance, and legal and insurance fees, we are turning to the community for help. When we reach our goal of $25,000 by March 3, we’ll bring what we’ve offered our regional grassroots teams to women everywhere.
I want to stake my invisible flag in spaces that are unfamiliar.
It’s hard to say I do anything in particular for a living since most of my hours involve volunteering for OWA. (And no, I’m most definitely not even close to being independently wealthy.) I work to help support OWA by writing and photographing for adventure travel publications and occasionally helping brands with social media. What helps me live, in terms of having purpose in my day-to-day life, is building a way to strengthen others.After living in my tiny car, I learned to do without a lot of material “extras,” so that frees up my financial needs considerably.
Discovery was the driving force behind me living in my car, it’s why I suffered through hiking (which I’ve never been a fan of—sorry hikers), and is my main interest in being outdoors. If it’s new to my eyes, I want to see it. I don’t want to take the photos and see the sights everyone has pinned on their Pinterest pages and Instagram accounts. I want to stake my invisible flag in spaces that are unfamiliar.”
—As told to Dirtbag Darling
 
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Alex Pucciohas done Rumble in the jungle and The Flame in Hueco Tanks, both originally 8A+ but now most consider 8A. "Two 8A's today! And I didn't use a single kneebar on this boulder! :) I tried both of these boulders many year ago psyched to have returned back to them today!(c) Westmountainmedia