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Rowerowa sztafeta, jakiej jeszcze nie było. Dookoła świata!

Tips for Hip Shoulder Mobility

Steve McClure is going for five 8b+' in five days and it turns out that the second, In da House in Penjas Juntas he flashes while warming up. The 46 year old has done several 9a FAs in UK and he is also a training author and here is a power-endurance article.
Michaela Kiersch, who did an 8c+ last Sunday in Red Rriver Gorge, is setting new standards by doing two this weekend: Southern Smoke and Fifty Words for Pump in a total of ten goes. To make the story even more impressive, it is a seven hour drive from Chicago to Red River Gorge, where she trains a competitive group five times a week. At the same time she is studying at the university. How can you best explain this extreme progress? Honestly I have no idea. I must be stronger than ever and going in with no pressure and no expectations has definitely helped me. How do you train and What are your goals? I make my own program depending on what my goals are. Usually RRG on the weekends and power/power endurance Tuesday-Thursday. Just keep improving.
www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news The aim of Flash FoxThe aim of Flash Foxy's Women's Climbing Festival? To build solidarity as women and recognize that we may climb & learn differently than the guys. Laura looks more into that idea in this new piece::
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This is going to sound like a stupid question, but it seems like most of your campsites are literally just in the middle of no where, not like at a legit camping ground. Is that necessarily legal? Asking because I'm real inspired to try something like this myself

Asked by Anonymous
This is not a dumb question at all - and perfectly relevant to our current fight to protect our public lands. I can legally camp in the middle of nowhere because I do so on public lands - lands owned by all American Citizens. This is land set aside for public use - be it camping, hunting, fishing, biking, climbing, hiking, etc… Public Lands are owned and supported by tax payers and also sometimes referred to as Federal Land (most research shows public land costs about $4 dollars per tax payer a year). Restrictions depend on the agency that manages the area - Forest Service Land, for example, does not allow mountain biking while most BLM (Bureau of Land Management) land has very few restrictions and allows for camping almost anywhere (without the need for a campground). However, I strongly encourage Leave No Trace ethics when camping in wilderness and if you are going to camp on our public lands please go to the following link and read the 7 Leave No Trace Principles:
I prefer to camp in the wild - to leave the city behind and experience the outdoors as a refuge from human impact - and in order to continue to experience it as such we need to keep it looking as if we were never there. I am a climber, a hunter, a mountaineer, a fisher, a hiker, a biker, and most importantly I was lucky enough to be born in the USA which gives me access to public wilderness as if I had the money to own a cabin in the mountains. However, I don’t have the money to own a cabin and so when the weekend rolls around I throw a few things in the back of the Land Cruiser and head for public lands… I find a spot that is my own, that feels as if I am one of the few lucky enough to sit on this rock and watch the sun go down - and I am lucky.
Watch the video link below: 4 minute bipartisan history of how the USA came to have so much public federal land, specifically in the west. This video educated me on how almost all federal land has always been federal land - and is not land that was taken from the states:
It is my opinion that there is falsehood in state legislator’s desire to want public lands to be taken from the federal government and given to the state for the resident’s interests. Federal land is held in a trust for the use of the American people - and that’s it, that’s all, it is there for our future generations - so that I can teach my kid to ethically hunt and camp in the mountains just as my grandfather and father taught me. Some states do a great job with land they manage for public access, but the problem is that the land is no longer explicitly a trust and if the wrong individuals become elected, or are already are elected, that land can now be sold to private entities and will no longer be accessible to the public. This is not to say it WILL but that it CAN… but I would rather not risk the possibility of my land being sold off so that I can not use it. Historically this has occurred when a state’s budget isn’t balanced because it is pretty easy to sell of a chunk of land to compensate for debt.
Please vote to protect our public lands!
Public lands for our use and what agency manages them can be seen in the map below:
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Description:
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Boulders in the video : Phoenix 7B+/7B in Cuvier Nord (v8/9) Ludus (sans convention) 7B in Cuvier Nord (v8) Dominus (droite) 7A+ in Cuvier Nord (v7) Asphyxié 7A/7A+ in Cuvier Nord (v6) Makhno (intégral) 7B in Cuvier Nord (v8)
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Article by Forrest Kolaski
www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Tips for Hip Shoulder Mobility
When it comes mobility it all starts with the hips and shoulders. For general mobility work, refer back to the exercises to do before you climb, as these are an excellent starting point. The interesting thing about mobility is people often don’t realize they can’t reach something if they had better mobility. Oftentimes, things out of reach remain out of reach.

Hip Mobility Tests

Here are some milestones for hip mobility. For many, these types of positions are seemingly impossible at first and there are ways to get within reach of these maneuvers. But first, it might be worth thinking about them.
Can you:
Keep your hips against the wall while one foot is on a hold around knee height? Can you do the same on both sides?
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Can you match foot to hand?
www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Tips for Hip Shoulder Mobility
Can you match heel to hand?
www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Tips for Hip Shoulder Mobility
These are interesting challenges and a good test for finding your baseline in your climbing hip mobility.

Shoulder Mobility Tests

Shoulders can articulate in a much more complex range and for simplicity sake, an assessment of shoulder mobility will be more easily performed while not climbing.
www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news Tips for Hip Shoulder Mobility
In order of difficulty:
Wall supine
Can you keep your chest against the wall or even have space between your hands and the wall?
Wall prone
Can you make contact with the wall all the way through the movement?
Floor supine
Can you make contact with the floor all the way through the movement?
Floor prone
Can you create space between your hands and the floor all the way through the movement?

Mobility Stretches

Both the hip and shoulder assessments seen so far are ways to find hard to reach positions and look for movement’s that are challenging. Now let’s look at some ways to improve these challenging ranges of movement.
Breztel Stretch
Scorpion
Reverse Scorpion
Squat & Reach
Twisted Bridge
If you have great range of motion these assessments and movements may not be hard for you at all, if that is the case chances are there are other, lower hanging fruit like strength or technique. Stay tuned for tips on strength!
Forrest Kolaski is a local climber and personal trainer based out of Pawtucket, RI. Learn more about his business on his website: http://ForrestFitnessRI.com
You can also read his “Climbers of Rock Spot” feature here.
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IFSC is about to take decision in regards to the Olympic format this weekend and here are the 8a thoughts which focus on the following: that the Speed route should vary, be steeper and include four lanes. 1. The Speed world record holder, Danyl Boldyrev, has told 8a he thinks the fixed route is boring. 2. There are only a dozen certified world record walls in the world 3. The Paris World Championship wall did not get certified 4. Most potential athletes live many hours from nearest Speed wall 5. Gym owners do not want rebuild their walls 6. We should not make kids (slow) speed climbing robots 7. Six second spectacle is too little On the other side, the current 6b+ route is too difficult for the youngest athletes and in fact harder for shorter kids. Even in world champions, runs over 15 seconds are normal and the fixed route setting excludes the average young climber to speed climb. In some countries they have actually added holds in order to let the youngest reach the top. IOC has said that the best must participate and ultimately, if we will make it to the 2024, Ondra needs to participate. A steeper route is longer, looks more impressive and is less about leg muscles. It will also need less invested time for Ondra etc to get a high level which makes him more interested to participate. Solution 10 - 18 meters high 0 - 4 meters overhanging 7a difficulty down to 5a for kids Up to 10 meters (four lanes) wide Normal route setting In regards the Combined format, 8a suggest that first all 20 athletes will do one run of Lead, Boulder and Speed. Then calculate the Top-8 and do one more run. As an option, the Top-4 can then compete with semi and finals in a Duel to decide the podium. Adam Ondra has said he thinks the 8a Olympic solution is "reasonable in terms of fairness" besides the Duel.