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IFSC - Boulder format/calculation to be improved

During the IFSC press conference, the President Marco Scolaris said that it is hard to understand the scoring in bouldering but they are working on a solution that will be presented in some months. The athlete representative, Sean McColl said that the scoring with points is a possibility and it was also said that the USA method is interesting. In reality, the four IFSC representatives almost seemed ashamed in regards the scoring system and that it was ten years old. 8a has several times suggested format as well as scoring system in regards points instead of Tops and Bonuses. The changes with 6 minutes instead of 8 minutes in Lead finals, as well as 4 minutes instead of 4+ minutes in bouldering finals, were made to fit into TV. Scolaris: "At the moment, this is the solution we were able to produce under pressure. We know many people were not satisfied, not happy." "We expect to convince IOC, but not only, that hopefully before 2020 that we deserve some help, because the sport is growing to fast and we do not have the resources to manage the sport. If it goes on in this way and our income does not increase and therefore we are not able to hire additional human resources. We will become victim of our success."

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I hope I'm doing thiI hope I'm doing this when I'm 90.

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I had a fun time giving Cosmic Tricycle (V10) a burn this...

I had a fun time giving Cosmic Tricycle (V10) a burn this weekend…psyched to go back with more beta

It is beautiful today! We are having an amazing spring. 

My strength training changes each week since I am on a 3 day climbing schedule.  In those 3 days I strength train for about 4 hours (including lajstice).  So some weeks it would be 8 hours and others closer to 6!

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All Climbs: 00:09 - War Bonnet V5 01:01 - Orb Weaver V7+ 01:49 - Crack Ho V2 03:07 - Jeff's Prow V9- 04:18 - Separate But Equal V5/6 04:54 - Udaho V3 05:28 - Moondye Stand V5 05:54 - Dig Dug V4 07:35 - Butt Cradle V2/3 09:30 - Glory Hole V3 10:25 - Uncle Fister Stand Start V2 11:05 - Momento V5 11:54 - Miho V6 12:37 - Old English V3 13:20 - Numerical Methods V7 14:17 - High Five V4 14:35 - The Crescent V3 Songs, in order: Running (Hiding Version) by Computer Magic Doing Yoga by Kazy Lambist Brighter Than Gold by The Cat Empire 7:41 by Still Parade We don't have a guidebook so if you are wondering where we got the grades from we got them from Mountain Project, plus just what we personally felt a few of them were. Also if you are wondering why I am wearing one slab shoe and one aggressive shoe in some of the clips it's just because my other slab shoe has a big hole in it, not because it was a better idea...

VIDEO CHANNELS

 

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It is a beautiful Tuesday! I am so happy the sun is shining and the weather is warm :)

In the next couple of months I am planning on attending all of the bouldering World Cups…it will be a busy season!

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I think V3-4 is the earliest you should start hangboarding/campus boarding, but for some people it’s closer to V6-7.  It really all depends on your technique.  You want good technique before you aim for strength, otherwise the strength isn’t as valuable.

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At the Plenary Assembly this year, Helmut Knabl resigned from his position as Vice-President of Sports and Events. A dedicated climber and mountain rescue officer, Helmut has been climbing since his early teens. He is a professional teacher at the Sport Climbing school in Imst and has worked closely with his community to promote sustainability and safety in climbing and to host a wide variety of events, including four Youth World Championships (1997,2001, 2006 and 2011). Tirelessly devoted to the sport,  he was thanked by President Marco Scolaris with a plaque of recognition. In addition to this Austria Climbing President Dr. Eugen Burtscher proposed and the Plenary Assembly voted to present him with the title of “Honorary Member” of the IFSC.

Speaking after this honor, it was clear that this is not the end of Helmut’s relationship with climbing. Although he will no longer represent the sport in the same way, he hopes to continue to contribute. "I have given many hours to serving the IFSC and Sport Climbing, but what they have given me is even greater. The relationship has changed, but it is never over."

Read more http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/news/item/899-helmut-knabl-appointed-honorary-member

 

Heading down to the dungeon for a session ;)

Video: Sendaholic

Song: Devil Eyes by Hippie Sabotage

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Rubber band exercises for my fingers, push-ups and kettle bell twists for my shoulders.

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Happy #TumblrTuesday!Have any questions for me?Ask away at...

Happy #TumblrTuesday!

Have any questions for me?

Ask away at sierrablaircoyle.tumblr.com/ask :)

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Grandes Jorasses- NoGrandes Jorasses- No Siesta // Alpine Exposures Mountain Photography — Breathtaking Photography

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Godzone Adventure RaGodzone Adventure Race 2013 - pic by Andreas Strand ciueseoaka aadis @godzonepure

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Gina Rock 2Gina Rock 2

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German Youth Bouldering championship 2017 HighlightsGerman Youth Bouldering championship 2017 HighlightsGerman Youth Bouldering championship 2017 HighlightsGerman Youth Bouldering championship 2017 HighlightsGerman Youth Bouldering championship 2017 Highlights

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Fontainebleau - SectFontainebleau - Sector Cul de chien in Eclipse 7C

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I’m a nomad at heart. I’ve moved around a lot, and I can always find a reason to leave.

What I didn’t expect this past year was to find a reason to stay.

About a year and a half ago, I moved to Boston for a job. But six months after I got here, I lost the job, and with it, my entire reason to be here.

Since I had gone to college in Boston several years ago, I’d already experienced living in this city, making me antsy to move on and try to make a new place my home.

But then I discovered a completely different reason to stay than the one that brought me here. (Life’s funny that way.)

While I was still at the job that brought me to Boston, one of my co-workers gave me a guest pass to his climbing gym. Though I’d tried climbing a handful of times before, this time something clicked, and I was suddenly obsessed.

I started climbing a few times a week, switching it up between a couple different climbing gyms because they were both equally far from where I lived.

When the lease on my original Boston apartment ended, I searched for a sublet in Somerville, just to be closer to Brooklyn Boulders.

I started climbing nearly every day. I also started taking yoga classes and fitness classes. And I started meeting new people and making friends with the familiar faces I saw every day.

This place is full of amazing humans who inspire me  – the people at the front desk who always greet me (and everyone who walks in) with such authentic enthusiasm, the route setters who constantly create new ways to play on the walls, the trainers who push us to be stronger, the crew that works hard to keep the space clean and beautiful, the awesome fellow climbers who support and encourage each other, and the true friends who I can always laugh with and talk to about anything.

Thanks to the people I’ve met here, I’ve gone sport climbing outside, learned how to do pull-ups, taken a salsa lesson, jumped off a ledge (while attached to an auto-belay), and even played Dungeons & Dragons for the first time ever.

Thanks to the encouragement of those same people, I’ve tried harder, tried things I thought I couldn’t do, learned to rest, learned to let go, become stronger, and become more vulnerable.

I’d be living a lesser life right now without the people I’ve met here.

So until I find a reason to move on, this is where you’ll find me. Home is where my people are, and my people are the wonderful passionate weirdos at BKB Somerville.


This was reblogged from Kate’s site, Cameras + Carabiners. To contribute to our blog, please email us at Ten adres pocztowy jest chroniony przed spamowaniem. Aby go zobaczyć, konieczne jest włączenie w przeglądarce obsługi JavaScript..

The post Finding a Reason to Stay appeared first on Brooklyn Boulders Blog.

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None at the moment, I have worked with Climbers Against Cancer in the past though.

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Dmitrii Fakirianov, double Youth World Champion who finished the 2016 Lead WC with 3- 2 - 5, is a new 8a member who just onsighted Fish Eye 8c in Oliana. The Russian is on an onsight training camp in Spain; he has also onsighted four 8a+ and harder, and flashed Fabelita 8c in Santa Linya. "Before I didn't climb so much on rocks. In Europe I had the opportunity to climb on rocks in 2013 in Arco, Massone and there I did Renis Vibes 8c/+. After that in 2015 in Crimea. I did the first ascent of a very hard route named "Christmas Party". It was harder than Renis Vibes I think. I was the only one who finished it. I wanted to be humble and I graded it as "8c+/?" because I didn't tried and climbed before 9a. So how was it onsighting an 8c? "For me it was hard more mentally than physically because I didn't before onsight so high grade categories. I think that route was my style: after hard sections - rest positions, long route. It's always not so easy to break some barriers when you connecting with something new. For me in this situation that barrier was category 8c. What are you next plan and ambition? I have some plans to work on my climbing technic and strength. And to compete in some national comps. I will also soon start training Speed in order to go for the Olympics.

Read more https://www.8a.nu/