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Community Spotlight: Becca Mui + Syd Shannon

Hey Steph, love the site! As a male with shoulder length hair, I’m curious how you take care of your hair while out on multi-week climbing trips without water/shower? Mine turns into knots and dreads.
Colby

Hi Colby,
I usually just comb my hair with a wide tooth comb when it’s wet, and if it’s windy or I’m climbing, I keep it tied up. Wind seems like the main tangler. My biggest advice to you with regards to dreads is PREVENT! Dreads don’t happen in 5 minutes but they’re kind of stealthy so it can seem like everything’s fine and then it’s all too late..!! If you get one trying to sneak in under the back there, take the 3 minutes to comb it out with your fingers or with a comb.

I also really recommend dry shampoo, if you don’t have any access to water. Because cleanliness is good. I guess what I’m trying to say is ladies really like people being clean. And so do climbing partners and employers and people next to you in the grocery store…. But you should do what you want!

You also can do a really good job of keeping clean between showers with just one gallon of water if you want to by washing face/pits/naughtybits with soap and a washcloth, then pour about half the gallon of water over your head, shampoo up, and then rinse it with the rest of the gallon. If you want to use some conditioner for dread prevention, use some leave-in and that will really help too.
 Steph

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Dave MacLeod takes aDave MacLeod takes a quick break at the Stollenloch, the entrance to a train tunnel that bisects the interior of the Eiger. Photo by Alexander Buisse.

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Despite having traveled and lived in the sport climbing meccas of Spain and France, talented climber Daila Ojeda had never—until recently—climbed a route over...

The post Daila Ojeda’s First Multi-Pitch Experience appeared first on Moja Gear.

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Core work

Who are you two and how did you start climbing?

Becca: I’m Becca Mui (pronouns: she/her) and originally from Cape Cod. I actually started climbing in Beijing in 2011. As a former dancer, climbing was one of the first things I did as an adult that felt like ballet – except without the intense and competitive culture. Bouldering is a really nice sport since you can just sit, hang out with friends and work on problems together.

Syd: I’m Syd Shannon (pronouns: they/them), and I’m originally from San Francisco. I started climbing about seven years ago at Mission Cliffs – a bunch of my friends were climbing, and once I tried it I was immediately addicted. I played competitive soccer through college until I had some injuries, and climbing was the first activity that made me feel comfortable in my body and bouldering had the team vibe of soccer that I liked.

Awesome! How did you two meet?

Syd: We met February 26, 2016 at BKB Gowanus while projecting a bouldering problem at the corner of the front wall. I was coming back from six months off the wall while recovering from gender affirming top surgery and needed a little help getting comfortable on the wall again. I watched as Becca finished a problem I had been working on, and coyly asked for her help.

The expert teacher that she is, she was able to give me great advice to finish the problem. We began talking about our work as educators and quickly became flirtatious climbing buddies, before I worked up the courage to ask her out on a date a couple weeks later. The rest is adorable history.

Cuteness. That’s some #bkblove right there. What are your climbing philosophies?

Becca: I just have fun doing it – it feels good and it feels like my body is playing.

Syd: I like the flow of it, of being ‘one with the wall’, as cheesy as that sounds. I love being conscious of how my body moves.

Becca, crushing on the BKB walls.Becca, crushing on the BKB walls.

What are your biggest projects, on and off the wall?

Becca: I’m working on a black V5 on the front wall in climbing. As for off the wall, I’m currently helping to organize NYQueer‘s Beyond Tolerance Youth Conference for queer youth and educators.

Syd: I’m working a couple of V6s on the 45 wall. Currently, I’m a preschool teacher and I deal with a lot of transphobia, especially in light of recent events. I’m working on creating a consulting company called Activism, Respect and Gender Organizing (ARGO for short) – which is focused on dismantling gender stereotypes and supporting Trans identities in youth serving institutions. We facilitate professional development for organizations and design and distribute gender inclusive educational resources.

Awesome! Syd, can you please talk a little more about your experience as a trans climber?

Syd: Climbing is such a positive part of my greater identity – it allows me to be comfortable and confident in my body in front of other people, and allows me to show strength while connecting to other people.

Syd working the 45 wall at BKB.Syd working the 45 wall at BKB.

However, there are still aspects of the climbing community that are ignorant to trans people and the experience we have as climbers. For example, using the wrong gender pronouns, or people calling me a girl on the wall. Some people are just unaware of the transgender experience. I personally identify as a non-binary trans person.

I feel as though climbing, like me, is an androgynous sport. It incorporates strength, delicate movement, grace, composure and endurance, which I see as a powerful challenge to stereotypical ideas about gender expression.

Climbing is certainly non-binary. Becca, how do you self identify, and what is your experience in a predominantly cis-male climbing culture?

Becca: I identify as a queer femme. I think of climbing as a queer sport, because I know so many queer people who are into climbing. It’s also great that BKB has a high number of climbers who aren’t just cis-men. Still, at the end of the day, depending on the crowd, there is still a culture and vibe highlighting and privileging cis male climbers. That’s why it’s so important for organizations like BKB to take a stand in supporting and giving space to femme climbers. It’s definitely important to create more awareness that allows for more diversity and inclusion in our community.

What is the biggest piece of advice you have for someone who is unexposed to the trans community?

Syd: Just ask! Talk to people – don’t assume and just please ask respectfully about someone’s gender identity, especially if you aren’t sure, but even if you think you are sure. People get to identify themselves.


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The post Community Spotlight: Becca Mui + Syd Shannon appeared first on Brooklyn Boulders Blog.

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Story 1: Climbing pioneer and legend, Royal Robbins dies at 82 Rock climbing pioneer and legend, Royal Robbins (1935-2017) passed away on Tuesday, March...

The post Climbing News: Passing of Royal Robbins, Wins for Ashima and Kai, Jeff Lowe, and Notable Ascents appeared first on Moja Gear.

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One of the most important parts of training is effectively tracking your progress.  Doing so ensures that you are able to progressively increase the difficulty of your training as you improve.  Progressively increasing the intensity of your training guarantees you are […]

The post Climbing Meta – Training Tracker appeared first on Training for Rock Climbing - TrainingBeta.

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The following content was originally published on VDiff Climbing, which provides simple illustrations for safe climbing techniques. VDiff owners and founders, Neil & Maria, have...

The post Climbing Explained to Non-Climbers appeared first on Moja Gear.

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Climbing area: CampiClimbing area: Campitello di Fassa, Italy.

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Climber's ElbowClimber's Elbow

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Boxcar Traverse V4 iBoxcar Traverse V4 in the Gunks

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Pinch 32 (8A) and Armathwaite

 
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