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Another extreme strike by Moritz Perwitzschky (17)

bearcamblog: I’m starting to pack for two months of EU today...

bearcamblog:

I’m starting to pack for two months of EU today and I am getting pretty jazzed up! Excited to spend Springtime across the pond.

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bearcamblog: I always enjoy getting to add some color to good...

bearcamblog:

I always enjoy getting to add some color to good looking climbs…it’s a fun new way to shoot bouldering for me. Here @jwebxl smashes on the Opium roof. bearcamblog: @honngy more business than casual at this moment ...

bearcamblog:

@honngy more business than casual at this moment (at Oliana)

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Barbara Zangerl sett

Barbara Zangerl settling into the simple life and crushing rock climbs. Congrats on sending Chikane (8c+), today in Siurana, Spain ! #liveclimbrepeat Photo: Bernardo Gimenez

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Article by Doug Page

B3 Competition Strategy

Hope you’re all getting as psyched for the 2017 Boston Boulder Brawl (B3) as we are at Rock Spot Climbing! If you are, then you are probably training your faces and finger tips off in anticipation at the greatness you will undoubtedly achieve in this test of wits, will and pure rock climbing prowess. Trusting that you have the rock climbing prowess thing covered, I’m going to give you a few tips to power up your mental game so you can be ready for victory come the Day of Glory: Saturday, April 8th!

I’m going to make a few assumptions here as you come with me on this journey of discovery:

  1. You’re psyched for the comp!
  2. You want to get the edge over your fellow competitors (let’s hope they’ll miss this blog post, and that deadpoint that you’re totally going to nail first try!) [Get it? ‘Cause it’s a competitive “edge” but also an “edge” like the climbing hold! Do you get it?]
  3. You’re a little confused over the finer points of competition strategy.

So let’s break this down into more manageable chunks, just like the day of the comp will be broken into two parts: Qualifiers and Finals.

Qualifiers will be a red-point format competition. In real talk that means you will have 3 hours to climb as many climbs as you need to in order to rack up the 5 best scores you can manage. These 5 scores, if they are better than a bunch of other people’s 5 best scores, will land you in Finals.

Finals is an on sight format competition which means you will not be able to watch others climb and you will have only 4 minutes to get as high on the boulder problem as you can. If you don’t make it to the top, fret not, for your highest hold controlled determines your score on the climb. Get higher than everyone else (whether you send or not) and you get the best score for that single climb. Do that on all 6 climbs and you become the Champion of the World!

Redpoint Format Strategy

  • Warm up well before your climb time begins. You will have to wait in line for the climbs you want to do, so being well warmed up before the competition begins will allow you to jump right into harder climbs.
  • Choose climbs that suit your strengths. If you’re really good at slabs, and you can flash hard slab climbs, then try and flash the higher scoring climbs in that style!
  • Establish a range. Find your Goldilocks flash range which will be somewhere between a climb that didn’t challenge you too much and one that was really hard for you, but you trounced swiftly (in a couple of burns!) Once you have gotten 5 scores in this range you can move on to bumping up lower scores by projecting some harder climbs that will take you a few more tries to send.
  • Watch your competition. See what other people in your division are climbing and sending. Try to keep a mental tally of who is in the top 6 around you.
  • Manage your time wisely. Try not to waste time projecting early on in the competition, and give yourself plenty of rest, water and snacks to fuel your sending.
  • Develop your lower scores. If the range that you have built is between #18 and #36, before you start projecting #40, go and climb #23 and #27 first. That will get rid of #18 and #19 (your lowest scores in this theoretical account) and set you up with a much better base score before you start projecting harder climbs.

Here’s an example:

Jasper the Crushenator (JtC) has 5 scores. His lowest score is climb #18 at 1800 points and his best score is climb #36 at 3600 points. He knows from watching his competition that he needs to bump up #18 in order to beat out Rob Bob Bumpkins, who has done similar climbs but whose lowest score is #19. JtC has been trying #40 for a long time and he is getting really tired, but is just soooooo close to sending. There are 20 minutes left in the comp.

Should he….

a) Keep trying #40 because the line’s really short and he’s really just so darn close even though he might not send and it’s sapping his strength because he’s not resting in between?

b) Go and wait in line for #30 which he thinks he will get first try but the line is really, really, really long?

c) Climb #21 and #25 real quick, since the lines are short, they’re totally his style and he’ll flash them no problem? At this point, his victory over Rob Bob is all but assured and then he can go back to trying #40.

If you said © then Rob Bob is ultra mega bummed because he’s not going to get into finals and get that shot to win some sweet swag (like crash pads and shoes and chalk pots, oh my!) by placing well in finals!

Stay tuned next week for a more in depth exposé on Finals Strategy!

Doug Page is Team Rock Spot - MA’s Head Coach and one of our main setters “DIG”

For more info on the Boston Boulder Brawl, visit the website:

http://RockSpotClimbing.com/B3

Check out the video!

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Autumn’s coming andAutumn’s coming and it’s time to get to...

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auf auf auffi gehts! http://ift.tt/2oydJii

auf auf auffi gehts! http://ift.tt/2oydJii

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atroy9:Bonaire.AndyTroy.nlTumblr page

atroy9:

Bonaire.
AndyTroy.nl
Tumblr page

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archatlas: The Art of Ted Chin

archatlas: The Art of Ted Chin

archatlas: The Art of Ted Chin

archatlas: The Art of Ted Chin

archatlas: The Art of Ted Chin

archatlas: The Art of Ted Chin

archatlas: The Art of Ted Chin

archatlas: The Art of Ted Chin

archatlas: The Art of Ted Chin

archatlas: The Art of Ted Chin

archatlas:

The Art of Ted Chin

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apt-goals: ig source: watts.on

apt-goals:

ig source: watts.on

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Apache Junction Skate Park Arizona

Apache Junction Skate Park
Arizona

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anxietyalex: “There is a sunrise and a sunset every day and you...

anxietyalex:

“There is a sunrise and a sunset every day and you can choose to be there for it. You can put yourself in the way of beauty.”

Wild (2014)

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another one of those hopelessly overcrowded norwegian summits....

another one of those hopelessly overcrowded norwegian summits. http://ift.tt/2ptIBB7

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Moritz Perwitzschky has during the last eleven days recorded 24 routes 7c and harder, of which seven onsights. After the first rest day after his big Frankenjura marathon, the 17 year old finished off by doing his second 8c+, Pain makes me stronger, every day! In February, Moritz did do a similar strike in bouldering with 23 ascents 7C to 8B over 13 days. Then we asked him, "Is it not time to raise the bar and go for something really hard?" I think not. I just want to climb as much as possible and the result doesn't even matter. The fitness and the sends will come sooner or later, if you don't get injured. And as I don't do any systematical training, I don't really know, what I'm capable of so let's see. (b) Simon Weisser

Read more https://www.8a.nu/

Andy Wickstrom @andywickstrom Carnivore Direct Priest...

Andy Wickstrom @andywickstrom
Carnivore Direct
Priest Draw
Flagstaff, AZ

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And the season begins…off to Swiss!!! ??

And the season begins…off to Swiss!!!

And amazing view from the top. ?

And amazing view from the top.

On Saturday, April 22nd, Carlo Traversi narrowly squeaked out a victory at the 2017 Tuck Fest climbing competition. The event, held at the U.S....

The post An Interview with Carlo Traversi on the Future of Climbing, Gyms, and Deep Water Soloing appeared first on Moja Gear.

Read more http://mojagear.com/journal/2017/05/02/interview-carlo-traversi-future-climbing-gyms-deep-water-soloing/

Amazing Photography

Amazing Photography Collection

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