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Zangerl and Gullsten win Melloblocco

The 14th Melloblocco ended on Sunday May 14th with the presence of 2700 registered athletes and exitmated 6000 climbers reaching the valley. Melloblocco is the widely recognized bouldering event with the most participants in the world. Held in Val Masino 100 km north of Milan, Italy, takes the name from “Mello” and “Blocco”: Mello is a lateral valley of Val Masino, and blocco means boulder. Unique for a competition, Melloblocco is held on real rock with new competition boulders every year. Val Masino offer, still, unlimited possibilities of new boulders all of them easily accessible. In the competition, there were 12 boulders to do and Barbara Zangerl was superior by doing eleven up to 8A. Among the male, Anthony Gullsten won ahead of Jorg Verhoeven by counting the number of flashes. It should be mentioned that Alex Megos did his ten in just three days. More info (c) Klaus del Orto 1. Barbara Zangerl 11 (6) - Anthony Gullsten 11 (4) 2. Lara Neumeier 7 (1) - Jorg Verhoeven 11 (2) 3. Madeleine Eppensteiner 6 - Alex Megos (10) 1

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The Olympic Channel invited International Federations to attend a workshop yesterday at their Madrid headquarters, and the IFSC was pleased to participate.

The IFSC had the opportunity to be provided with the most recent updates on the Olympic Channel and to share best practices with them and other international sports federations of sports at the Summer Olympic Games. Ideas were also exchanged on how to best collaborate together to improve the quality and relevancy of video production, increase coverage worldwide and much more.

The IFSC experienced first-hand an impressive place and team (100 employees and 27 nationalities) which is actively producing, sharing and spreading Sport Climbing around the world to new audiences. In just 8 months, the fast-growing platform has already reached 2.31 million fans on Facebook, 1.7 million subscribers on YouTube and 1.1 billion video views.

Click here to watch the latest Sport Climbing news on the Olympic Channel for IFSC World Cup Hachioji-Tokyo.

Workshop at Olympic Channel HeadquartersWorkshop at Olympic Channel HeadquartersWorkshop at Olympic Channel Headquarters

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The competitions are usually back to back, so in between the comps I’m traveling to the next destination and training :)

I’m sure I’ll hit some more outdoor destinations in the future…but my main focus is competitions right now.

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It’s a Tuesday afternoon. I’m dressed in a billowy shirt and a still-soaked bathing suit and jean shorts that probably show off too much butt cheek. When in Baja, right?

My friends are laying out taco cooking supplies on the tailgate of a Tacoma, making inappropriate jokes and throwing sticks for a dog who is covered in desert burs but oblivious about it. My leg is bleeding a little from where it was punctured by a cactus. My feet are caked in pale-brown Mexican dirt and swollen with a burn procured from a big ball of fire that’s more than 92-million miles away.

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This isn’t a backpacking trip. It’s the type of trip that calls for more than a headlamp to light the way. This is a trip that calls for ambiance and relaxation and conversation, for lazy naps on the beach and surfing in the morning (but only once you’ve had some coffee and a behind-the-bushes poop). This is a trip that offers the time it takes to string up a set of lights that will make our campsite something memorable and special, not just a place to crash at the end of the day.

I’ve been slowly learning the value of relaxation, and my friends —all fans of high-energy moments and big days — have been, too. I think all of us needed a trip where we didn’t feel obligated to fill every moment with “doing,” but could instead enjoy just “being.”

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That’s where Biolite’s BaseLantern came in.  The BaseLantern is part of the NanoGrid, a modular system of lanterns and string lights that you can customize for whatever setup you have outdoors (or indoors, for that matter). The BaseLantern is your power source, a 500-lumen lantern with a rechargeable internal battery you can juice up at home or using your SolarPanel 5+.

From there, you have a lot of options. You can stand the BaseLantern up on its legs or hang it from a tree branch or hook. You can charge your camera or phone using the USB charge-out ports. You can plug in a system of SiteLights and string them up around your tent or truck. You can use the Bluetooth capabilities to turn your base camp into a party — the BioLite app lets you set timers and alarms, ask the light to turn on when you get close to your tent to light your way, and sync up your lantern to your music so it pulses, strobes and changes color.

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Basically, a piece of gear I never thought I would use quickly became something I started imagining myself using over and over in myriad ways. To leave the NanoGrid set up at camp and come “home” to beautiful ambient lighting would extend my group’s time together by hours instead of the usual brush-teeth-and-crash routine. It’s not always a backpacking trip, after all.

The post We Tried This: Biolite BaseLantern appeared first on Dirtbag Darling.

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vanlifers: Sunset cl

Sunset climbing Climber @willstanhope Photo...

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Daniel Fuertes has done two 8c+' which share the same start in Rodellar. One is CHC which was put up by Dani Andrada with finisjes with a 7b+ after a good rest. The other is Los Cucos which is a FA of Fuertes where the exit is 8b+. "It can be 9a, but this route has a good rest between the two hardest sections and I think that it's 8c+/9a. This fantastic route is 25 meters of super overhanging where you climb down!! Wow!! It's crazy!!! I want to say thank you to Alejandro Bada and Kymy de la Peña, because they climb with me this days there, and the area was so wet!! I feel lucky, with friends like this, impossible to fail!!" On the picture by David Lopez Campe, Daniel is working on the 15 year project, No pain no gain which is thought to be 9a+. It is 40 meter long out of which 30 meters goes in a roof.

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tri-climbing: An ima

An image captured over Easter of the very rare...

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Training endurance seems pretty simple.  Just climb until you are pumped silly and repeat right? While this approach can definitely work, how can you be sure you are actually reaching your maximum pump level?  Did you fall because you truly […]

The post Transcript Highlight: Margarita Martinez on Training Endurance appeared first on Training for Rock Climbing - TrainingBeta.

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Neely has been putting out TrainingBeta Podcasts now for years and they are full of all kinds of amazing training information from some of the top climbers and trainers out there.  She is even up to 78 episodes and counting! […]

The post Top 5 TrainingBeta Podcasts appeared first on Training for Rock Climbing - TrainingBeta.

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There are now more than 4.3 million star rated climbs in the 8a data base which will guide you to the best crags in the world. You can also search the Ticklist by the highest onsight percentage or thumbs up percentage and you can search by specific grades. By checking the number of ascents you also get a good knowledge if the routes are worth trying. If you want to go into more detail, you can check if many female or youngsters have done it or read comments in order to find out if the routes are good for you. As the topo authors can not try all the routes in the data base, they have to trust the FAs, which they might be a friend of. Surely, these guys can also have the preference for a certain types of routes that might not reflect the 8a community opinion. A good example of this is the E.T. sector in Kalymnos, which is one of the highest star rated crags on the island at the same time it has not gotten good score in the 8a databas.

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thrillseekerz:Got tothrillseekerz:Got to ring the Liberty Bell in the North Cascades...

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theadventurouslife4u

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The latest featured climb at Black Rock  Aris Theodoropoulos, who has made all Kalymnos topos, has just finished a new topo which covers the best of Greece. In total, 31 crags are presented in 435 pages also including over 1 000 routes in Leonidio. Just by looking at the map and the high number of high rated climbs, it should be on every climber's to do list to fly down to Athens and make a three week road trip (at least!) on the main land. Basically, this looks like the most weather proof winter destination in Europe as the stats says it very seldom rains and the average winter temperature is 10 degrees. More info on Climb Greece where you also can buy it for Euro 40. The topo is produced together with Vertical-Life which means their App guide is included.

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Thanks @jocelynchavy

Thanks Jocelyn Chavy for this awesome picture!! (Repost) Gorges du Verdon France. Caroline Ciavaldini @onceuponaclimb enjoying great view above the stunning waters of Verdon during the #nightrayfest by The North Face one week ago. Shooting with Caro and her man James Pearson was great not to mention the nice talk with Yuji Hirayama @stonerideryuji the climbing legend. The three climbers are currently cruising all the mythic crags of south of #France#climbing some 8c on the way filmed by @fo...

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Sierra Blair-Coyle Stinky Ass, V7 Priest Draw, Flagstaff, AZ

Sierra Blair-Coyle
Stinky Ass, V7
Priest Draw, Flagstaff, AZ

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Sasha Digiulian taki

Sasha Digiulian taking a big whip off of The Madness, 5.13c, RRG. These falls (dangerous as they may be) make lead climbing so worth it.

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When it comes to climbing and especially to training, climbers are spending more and more of their time climbing in indoor gyms.  While gyms are the perfect place to hone your skills, there are some important differences between indoor and […]

The post Route Setting to Prevent Injury with Chris Danielson appeared first on Training for Rock Climbing - TrainingBeta.

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This week’s Friday Flick Pick dives into the hidden river canyon caves and highball limestone roofs discovered in the badlands of Flagstaff, Arizona by...

The post Rooftown — Matt Gentile on the Hidden Highballs of Flagstaff, AZ appeared first on Moja Gear.

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