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Barbara Zangerl - The world's best female rock climber

Japanese athletes earned 4 medals in front of their home crowd, Janja Garnbret won her second Gold of the season and Aleksei Rubtsov returned to the top at the fourth IFSC Bouldering World Cup of 2017.

Tickets were sold out and fans were waiting outside the entrance of the Esforta Arena Hachioji on Sunday morning for the opening of the fourth IFSC Bouldering World Cup in Hachioji-Tokyo, Japan. In the end, two regular finalists won Gold, and Japanese athletes delighted with many strong performances.

A competition recap, highlights, replays and more can be found on the Hachioji-Tokyo event page.

4 Medals for Japan, Garnbret and Rubtsov on Top4 Medals for Japan, Garnbret and Rubtsov on Top4 Medals for Japan, Garnbret and Rubtsov on Top

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2017 Tokyo World Cup:

Check out my blog on the Tokyo World Cup!

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12 тыс. отметок «Нра12 тыс. отметок «Нравится», 51 комментариев — MΔRGΩ HΔΨΣS (@margojain) в Instagram: « •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Thank you @timgoutside for the photo»

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“The purpose of our lives is to be happy.”
- Dalai Lama (via thepowerwithin)

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IFSC World Cup Hachioji-Tokyo will be broadcast in Japan on NHK and Sky A!

Starting at 7:00pm (GMT+9) on Sunday, May 7th, NHK BS1 and Sky A will broadcast the grand finale of the fourth IFSC Bouldering World Cup of 2017, bringing the best climbing in Hachioji-Tokyo to more fans of Sport Climbing. NHK G (terrestrial) will also broadcast the full replay of finals on Tuesday, May 9th, at 1:45am.

In addition, NHK BS1 will also be producing a TV program called Sports Innovation with Hachioji World Cup. Sports Innovation is a TV series which analyzes sports using a scientific approach. This is the second-time Sport Climbing will be included, and this edition will analyze the complex movements of the elite Bouldering athletes competing this weekend with 3D data of the walls and holds.

NHK acquired terrestrial and BS rights in 2016, broadcasting programmes of the IFSC climbing season mainly on its NHK BS satellite channel. NHK (Japan Broadcasting Corporation) is Japan's only public broadcaster.

Get excited for the upcoming action by watching NHK’s teaser for IFSC World Cup Hachioji-Tokyo here.

Read more http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/news/item/925-bouldering-on-nhk-and-sky-a

We travelled to Macedonia exactly a year ago and I regret not noting the details of our trip as many have fled my memory since. It was definitely a fun microadventure and one I wholeheartedly recommend if you find yourself roaming around the Balkans. Expect being ridiculously hot and most of the time lost. __________ On the border between Bulgaria and Macedonia the queue of trucks stretched for a good kilometre or two. There were only a few passenger cars crossing […]

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Bouldering - 9cafe0cadb15c15d66e8a3a8ff38e8eb - 2017-05-24-12-15-27

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Bouldering - 5ce236cd11929c9b465be4ca34652c2d - 2017-05-24-12-15-27

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SALT LAKE CITY, May 08, 2017 (GLOBE NEWSWIRE) -- Black Diamond, Inc. (NASDAQ:BDE) (the “Company”), a global leader of innovative active outdoor performance equipment and apparel, under the brand name Black Diamond®, reported financial results for the first quarter ended March 31, 2017. First Quarter 2017 Financial Highlights vs. Same Year-Ago Quarter Sales of $41.6 million, up 9%. Gross margin up 90 basis points to 29.6%. Selling, general and administrative expenses down 12% to $12.5 million. Net loss was $1.5 million or $(0.05) per share, compared to a net loss of $4.0 million or $(0.13) per share. Adjusted net income before non-cash items increased to $0.5 million or $...

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One of the first bits of kit a newbie trad climber will buy is a lid. Gotta protect the melon. As with most climbing...

The post Best Beginner Climbing Helmet: A Review of the Black Diamond Half Dome appeared first on Moja Gear.

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Ten years ago, Barbara Zangerl was one of the very best female boulderers in the world. In 2009, she got an herniated vertebral disc which made her stop bouldering. Including two 8c+'s and several 8c's she is also nowadays among the best in sportclimbing and the same goes for trad, where she recently did an 8c FA, Gondo Crack. Even so, multi-pitches should be her best discipline and here she the #1 female, here the full very impressive tick list. The good news is that she is now fully recovered from her back injury and last week she was a superior winner in the Melloblocco. "The injury is still there. It is a broken disc. On the MRI pictures it looks still bad but I think I am totally recovered which means I have no more pain. But of course if do a lot of bouldering, jumping down from the blocs---then it comes back, I feel pain and I have to rest. I'm always doing a lot of bouldering in our home gym, especially in winter. There we have extra soft pads where I can train without any risk of hurting my back--- while jumping off the wall."What is your plan and ambition for 2017? My focus will be on bigger walls....I love alpine and big wall climbing....and maybe I can push my sport climbing limit a bit further--we will see. But in general I get the best out of climbing if i combine all styles of climbing....that is my way to stay motivated all over the years and I love it to do trad alpine and sport....and a bit of bouldering... This summer I want to climb in Chamonix....I never have been there before....or I would be also interested to climb a route on Eiger, if the weather is good this summer.....In Autumn we will go to Yosemite again.... 8a interview from 2015. (c) Thomas Senf & Klaus Dell'Orto

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Barbara Raudner Phot

Barbara Raudner Photo Hermann Erber

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Arnold Schwarzenegger had this to say when he visited the Bouldering wall: “Sport Climbing is a sport that requires full body conditioning, flexibility and strength”. He was impressed with the climbing ability as a problem was demonstrated to him.

Sport Climbing was introduced to the International Arnold Classic by Sport Unplugged, the South African National Climbing Federation (SANCF) and Gauteng Climbing for the first time in Johannesburg South Africa at the Arnold Classic Africa from the 6th to 8th, May 2017.

The Inaugural 2017 Sport Unplugged Arnold Trifecta Climbing Competition on Saturday consisted of competing on three Boulders, a Dyno Comp and a problem on the MOON Board. The Dyno Comp proved to be a favourite with the crowd and the MOON Board gave the athletes and the public climbs of hard core finger strength requiring technique. Whilst showcasing the sport, four of the routes were made easy for the public to experience first-hand the fun, thrill, strength and flexibility of Sport Climbing.

George Stainton, founder of Sport Unplugged, said that he was blown away with the success of showcasing the sport to the public and, as Sport Climbing is now at the Olympic Games Tokyo 2020 and Youth Olympic Games Buenos Aires 2018, he sees the sport growing from strength to strength.

For more information about the event, please visit the websites of SANCF, Sport Unplugged and Arnold Classic Africa.

Arnold Classic Africa 2017Arnold Classic Africa 2017Arnold Classic Africa 2017

Read more http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/news/item/932-arnold-classic-africa-2017

Amazing climber!!Amazing climber!!

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In this week’s Friday Flick Pick, we feature a profile on prolific veteran climber, Beth Rodden, where she shares insight into how climbing has...

The post Above the Fray — Beth Rodden on Climbing, Vulnerability, and Motherhood appeared first on Moja Gear.

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Tommy Caldwell and Cedar Wright are two of the most recognizable climbing adventurers around, and as you might imagine, they’ve accumulated quite a bit...

The post A Look Inside the Gear Sheds of Tommy Caldwell & Cedar Wright appeared first on Moja Gear.

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Lattice Training, led by accomplished UK climbers and coaches, Tom Randall and Ollie Tor, offers clients with personalized training programs to help climbers reach...

The post A Look at Lattice Training — Endurance, Power, Strength, and More appeared first on Moja Gear.

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The final round of IFSC World Cup Hachioji-Tokyo 2017 gathered Sport Climbing fans from around the world for a grand show of Bouldering, and multiple distinguished guests attended the event.

Tickets were sold out on Sunday, with 2,340 spectators inside the Esforta Arena Hachioji, and the IFSC was proud to host a number of notable persons: Koichi Hagiuda, Executive Board Member Tokyo 2020 and Member of the House of Representatives; Takayuki Ishimori, Mayor of Hachioji City; and Koji Murohfushi, Sports Director Tokyo 2020.

Representatives of the Japan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association (JMSCA) and the IFSC also watched the exciting action, including JMSCA President Kuniaki Yagihara, IFSC President Marco Scolaris, IFSC Sport Vice-President Sport/Events Kobinata Toru, IFSC Sport Director Jérôme Meyer, and IFSC Marketing and Communications Director Anne Fuynel.

Online, the LIVE streaming of finals reached more views on YouTube than any single streaming for an IFSC World Cup event. The grand finale was also broadcast on NHK BS1 and Sky A, bringing top Sport Climbing action to more viewers in Japan.

Click here to watch the full replay of finals, or get a feel for the inspirational strength and technique of the world's best Bouldering athletes by watching the highlights below.

Read more http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/news/item/930-a-grand-show-of-bouldering

Alex Megos, who did the first ever 9a onsight four years ago, reports on Facebook that he has done it again and this time in Gravere. The name of route is TCT which was put up by Stefano Ghisolfi, who commented, "I want to dedicate this route to Tito Claudio Traversa (that's why I called TCT), because I want everybody will remember him forever." TCT is chipped link-up of an 8c and an 8b+ but it was not Stefano who chipped it. Adam Ondra has also onsighted it before and is one ahead of Megos with three 9a onsights. Amazing is however that Megos has onsighted 100 % of the 9a's he has tried to onsight.Wow! How was it? How many 9a's have you tried to onsight but failed? It was great! Kinda funny because I didn't expect it at all. I felt really bad warming up, got pumped very fast on the warmup routes and felt my finger a little bit which is normally a sign that I climbed a little bit too much too soon. So first I thought I will not try it at all but then got talked into it and decided to just give it a go. It was anyway a totally unplanned thing that we ended up at Gravere. We were planning on going somewhere else but then the evening before Stefano's car didn't work anymore so we had to find someone to go climbing. Marcello Bombardi said he is going to Gravere so we went with him. At the crag they told me that there is a 9a here that Adam onsighted a couple of years back so they were really excited and told me I should try it. Despite feeling not very good I thought I might as well just give it a go. And then it worked out! I'm not totally sure but I think that was the first 9a I really tried to climb onsight. It never worked out for me that I had a proper chance to try it. In the Frankenjura I've done already everything and it's super hard to onsight routes, and then all the other times I climbed a 9a either there were no quickdraws in or no chalk or I just bailed. So I ended up never really preparing and trying."

Read more https://www.8a.nu/

Christof Rauch, famous for having done more than 350 boulders 8A and harder the last 3.5 years, has done his second 8C FA, Iron Knuckles in Kärnten. "Perfect moment! Surely one of the biggest fights I've ever had, and definitely the hardest problem I have ever climbed. I feel in really good shape at the moment and I've never put so much effort into a single boulder problem. I just really wanted to climb this thing and it was always fun to try those moves. All together I worked on this beast about 14 sessions. Two hours after my ascent it started to rain really heavily, so I got soaked on the 50 minute walk back to the car. The problem links a perfect shaped crack with a little feet first section, about 8A+ at itself, into "Hard Knock Life" 8B, all in all about 20 hard moves and there is still an harder exit..." Directly after the send Christof, who is working full time as an electrician and engine building technician, started to work linking the 8A+ traverse with an 8B+ finish. Another fun fact is that it is a 50 min hike to the boulder and as many times before, he did it by himself, in order to get a full day experience challenging some rocks out in the nature.

Read more https://www.8a.nu/

Christof Rauch has done his second 8C FA the last ten days by Styrian Delirium in Weststeiermark. The 23 year old Austrian, who is working full time and got his first sponsor just some months ago, is the one who has done most 8A's and harder the last three years, 300+. He is also the new #1 in the 8a ranking game. "F**k yessss!! Feels like we have some low gravity days. Felt so much stronger on those moves. Amazing progression from dreaming about climbing this whole line and eventually doing it. Honestly this is not the best line but it connects the two coolest problems in the cave, "The Unnamed Ungraded" 8B, about 15 moves, into the 19 moves of "Sound in Motion" 8B. With the little rest in between this thing climbs more like a route than a boulder. Definitely feels harder than all the other really long boulders I've done. All together it took me around 15 sessions." The picture is from the FA of Traumata 8A+ which he put up this Thursday. In total, the Austrian has done 16 FAs 8A amd harder the last seven weeks.

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Margarita Martinez, a former ballet dancer who came to USA from Puerto Rico being 16 years old, started climbing being 34 years old. Having had many injuries, health problems and also working hard baking wedding cakes she stopped climbing having reached 7c+, due to Rheumatoid Arthritis (see picture), for four years until she was 49 years old. At 53, having done several 7c+' again she decided to start pushing harder. Margarita started to focus on pull-ups and also pushing hard on the Maxi-pull endurance hang board until she got a new serious shoulder injury. The doctor suggested a replacement which should have meant stopping climbing. With a magic therapy she recovered again and having done four 8a+', she did Whole Shot 8b in Maple Canyon last year which originally was 8b+. (c) Edwin Teran Now she has done great progress on two 8b+ projects but once again she has gotten a serious health problem due to a spinal fracture. "Getting old sucks but you make lemonade with all the lemons of life." Climbing less for the moment she is focusing more on her new business, Drypointe, which is a small ball that will dry out the smell and bacteria from your shoes. How is it possible that your amazing story has not been picked up by the climbing media? Not sure, I guess I don't advertise myself. Some people like to kiss and tell but not me I climb because I love it. The grade or notoriety is not important to me. I don't want to be defined by climbing. I want to be defined by a good person to others, a good mother/wife and a good human.Trainingbeta has done a podcast interview with me.

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Alex Puccio has done her 46th 8A+, Position of power in RMNP. "Fun power endurance boulder. Got a bit pumped at the end." In total, the vice-world champion from 2014 has done 142 boulders 8A to 8B+ and she is #3 in the All time high ranking where Ashima Shiraishi is #1.

Read more https://www.8a.nu/