Search

Moon Towe

Introduction:

Highway to Heaven is an outstanding multi-pitch climb on the tantalizing granite of Storm Point. Nobuyuki Yuki Fujita and I originally did the climb in eleven pitches. We purposely kept some of pitches short on our exploratory climbs to avoid rope drag and to communicate better between one another. However, in two subsequent climbs, that number was reduced to a more efficient seven to eight pitches.

The climbs ends at Tranquility Point not an official name, we admit, but an appropriate name considering the elegance and beauty of the climbing to reach it. The climb is all south facing and is climbable throughout the season.

Its a particularly pleasant route in the early season when other climbs are still snowed in or wet from melt water. Its slightly easier and closer to the trailhead than Guides Wall (a popular 5.8 climb located a mile farther than this climb), and it serves as a good alternative when things are crowded there. Its conveniently located near the west side of Jenny Lake, starting and ending at the same location. Many climbs in the Tetons involve a fair amount of scrambling, but not here. This one is all rock.

The Route:

(See "Location" for how to get to 'The Ramp' which is the starting point of the climb.

From the top of the ramp, you can see the first two pitches. Youll be looking at a southeast facing slab that extends upward 200 feet. The top of the slab is guarded by a huge roof (Entrance Roof) that extends from one side of the slab to the other. The start of the climb begins on a smooth slope with small holds. The slope quickly eases off and then steepens up again midway up to the roof. Entrance Roof is an imposing barrier, but it can be avoided by climbing around it to its extreme left side where, just above and to the left of the roof, youll find a nice ledge (Rhapsody Ledge).

From here, you follow a natural line upwards until reaching Tranquility Point, a high point just below some impressive vertical walls. (Upper Highway to Heaven begins here. More information on that climb will be available soon on Mountain Project.)

The first ascent of the route required 11 pitches but on subsequent ascents, we have been able to cut that back to 7 pitches. I have prepared a webpage with details on each of the pitches here:
ronwatters.com/Climbs_HighwayL...
"Overview
Submitted By: Ron Watters
Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Cascade Canyon

Read more https://www.mountainproject.com/v/lower-highway-to-heaven/111957971

Start sitting with your hands in a large sloper pocket. Climb up into a two finger pocket and make hard moves off of slopey sidepulls to get into the giant slopers of Moon Tower. Bust out one last hard move and finish up the highball slightly more pumped for an exhilarating finish!
Submitted By: Troy Fauteux
Location: VT : Smugglers Notch : Moon Tower Boulder

Read more https://www.mountainproject.com/v/lunar-eclipse-/111957898

The crux is definitely down low and seemed way hard for the grade. The 3rd clip seems weirdly placed and may have groundfall potential. The painted sign at the bottom listed this as a 5.9, which jived with the new Western Sloper guide available from Wolverine. Maybe I'm just super weak.
"Our
Submitted By: Shadrock
Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : The Schoolyard

Read more https://www.mountainproject.com/v/mk/111958074

An amazing sloper problem with a high off the deck finish. Stand start with your right hand on a 3 finger shallow pocket and your left hand slightly under it on a gaston crimp. Find your feet and make a big move up into the giant slopers above. From here bust out an even bigger move and dyno to the good incut hold above. Continue making big moves all the way up to the highest point of the boulder and top it out for a nerve racking finish!
Submitted By: Troy Fauteux
Location: VT : Smugglers Notch : Moon Tower Boulder

Read more https://www.mountainproject.com/v/moon-tower/111957836

This route offers some nice crimps and felt a touch harder than its juggy and overhanging neighbor, Jug Run. See the beta photo for Jug Run, which includes Pocket Protector on the left.
Submitted By: Shadrock
Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : Team Wall

Read more https://www.mountainproject.com/v/pocket-protector-/111958215