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Jason Kruk – Cerro Torre Unleashed

thumb The Arc'teryx Lakeland Revival is now in its third year. It originally began after speaking with local shop staff and hearing how a lot of the old classic routes and crags were becoming over grown and even lost. The focus the last two years have been on cleaning dirty route, this year the idea has developed to reviving Lakeland climbing as a whole; the climbing, history, people, stories and the myths and legends.

Read more http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=8529

Jason Kruk and Hayden Kennedy are guest speakers for the Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival’s closing night February 18, 7:30pm at Centennial Theatre in North Vancouver.

As far as big, bold climbs go, you can’t get much bigger or bolder than a new route on the Southeast ridge of Cerro Torre in Patagonia. The featureless face on the near-perfect granite spire is permanently etched by Cesare Maestri’s infamous bolt line. And as far as climbing controversies go, you can’t get much hotter than the international conflagration burning over the chopping of Maestri’s 42 year-old bolts.

This is why the spotlight is on Squamish climber Jason Kruk and his American partner Hayden Kennedy. Squamishclimbing.com recently sat down with Kruk to get the full story on their controversial climb and the international row over the right of foreign climbers to rip out established bolts.

Jason Kruk – Cerro Torre Unleashed

In 1970, Maestri used a gas powered compressor to drill more than 400 bolts up the Southeast Ridge of Cerro Torre. The Compressor Route, as it became known, was widely considered an artificial climb and a hollow claim of alpinism, much like the Italian alpinist’s claim that he climbed Cerro Torre in 1959. That climb was debunked when later expeditions failed to climb the route and found no evidence Maestri had climbed more than a quarter of the way up the mountain. More recently, there is growing suspicion that Maestri came up short on the Compressor Route too. He claimed he reached the summit after climbing to the top of the headwall. He stopped below the rime ice on the summit saying it was “not really part of the mountain” because “it’ll blow away one of these days.” But his true high point may have been just above where he left his compressor as his bolts peter out completely 20 metres from the top of the headwall.

 

In the last few years, the prize had been to climb the Compressor Route in the best style by eliminating as many of the Maestri bolts as possible. The goal became known as the “fair means” project. Kruk age 24,and Kennedy age 22, bagged it when they used only five bolts from previous fair means attempts and two of Meastri’s anchors. They graded the climb 5.11+ A2. Then, when the pair reached the top, they went down removing 125 Maestri bolts along the way.

Jason Kruk – Cerro Torre Unleashed

The news went viral that the Compressor Route had fallen to a fair means ascent, and Kruk and Kennedy had chopped the bolts. Likely more than a few tons of green house gases were burned debating if what they did was justified. Some vilified Kruk and Kennedy saying they had no right to remove the bolts. A few called them names, comparing them to terrorists and referring to them with the initials KKK. Others stood by them, saying it was about time the widely condemned bolts were removed.

 

Kruk and Cerro Torre are well acquainted

 

 

“The first time I saw Cerro Torre I had to sit down. It takes your breath away. It’s the raddest peak on the planet,” says Kruk. At 3,128 m (10, 262 ft) it’s not the height of the peak that makes it so striking. Surrounded by lesser spires, Cerro Torre rises straight up out of the glacier and narrows to a small summit capped by a mushroom of ice.

Read more http://squamishclimbing.com/2012/02/15/jason-kruk-feature-interview/

A beautiful granite formation located in the western Castle Mountains a short distance from Grasshopper Creek.

(10) established routes ranging from a 5.4 TR to a 5.10b sport route. Some routes need protection to prevent run-out. The formation is located in a grassy meadow filled with wildflowers and provides an amazing view of of the other granite Castle towers to the south.

As you switchback up the mountain you will notice a large amount of granite boulder fields through the trees that could provide some fantastic boulder routes.
Submitted By: A Pankratz
Location: MT : Castle Mountains : Grasshopper Rocks

Read more https://www.mountainproject.com/v/cow-patty/111975988

A cluster of relatively small boulders. 3 or 4 of the blocks will yield some nice problems.
Submitted By: Tim McGivern
Location: MA : Spring Pond Woods

Read more https://www.mountainproject.com/v/sour-patch-kids/111967760

A free-standing boulder at the base of the descent scramble into the Tranquilitas Crag. Gets lots of shade as it is mostly east-facing and overhanging. Only a few climbs, but distinct from the predominate climbing style of the crag. Powerful and boulder-ish.
Submitted By: MClay
Location: International : Africa : South Africa : Waterval Boven : The Wonderland crags : Tranquilitas Crag

Read more https://www.mountainproject.com/v/rubiks-cube-boulder/111978778

A fun slab wall with climbs from 5.7 to 5.11
Submitted By: Ralph Swansen
Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Blair (overview) : Upper Blair

Read more https://www.mountainproject.com/v/pretzl-wall/111973616

A section of the Tranquilitas Crag; some quality moderates. Gets quite a bit of sun as it is faces north. Good winter crag. For summer early morning and late afternoons are your best bet.
Submitted By: MClay
Location: International : Africa : South Africa : Waterval Boven : The Wonderland crags : Tranquilitas Crag

Read more https://www.mountainproject.com/v/good--evil-area/111978699

A smaller, less visited formation between Big Sleep and Crocodile Dome. The guidebook lists eight routes from 5.9 to 5.11d. In mid-summer it is in the sun most of the day.
Submitted By: Brandt Allen
Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Shuteye Ridge

Read more https://www.mountainproject.com/v/voodoo-dome/111966394

An easy slab area with good views and clean rock. A few climbs are out here from one to two pitches. This is a good area to bring "never evers" or someone that wants to lean to lead.
Submitted By: pinskey
Location: NH : WM: Franconia Notch : Echo Crag

Read more https://www.mountainproject.com/v/the-slabs/111969174

At the far left end of the face there is a deep slot about 50' tall, with an inner and outer west face.
Submitted By: applewood
Location: WA : Okanogan : Burge North - Hidden Canyon

Read more https://www.mountainproject.com/v/hidden-slot/111970243

Beat the Heat and the crowds. When you have some "Time to Kill" this is the place to go. This is a fun little climb area under the shade of some nice tall trees. several of the climbs are actually through the branches. This is a very new area so still needs some cleaning. As more people climb it it will only get better. I highly recommend wearing a helmet or being cautious as you climb.
Submitted By: Kaleb McCallson
Location: UT : Oquirrh Mountains : Middle Canyon

Read more https://www.mountainproject.com/v/tk-wall/111967901

Cliff band on the east shore of Lake Placid. The most popular cliff jumping spot on the lake, with the highest jump being 65+ feet up. There are a handful of routes here, the best being an obvious 5.8 handcrack (Jack in the Pulpit), and a 5.11+ deep water solo (Placid Es Pontas). There are several routes both to the right and left of the main cliff as well.

Awesome summer spot for some deep water soloing!
Submitted By: perrotr
Location: NY : Adirondacks : Northern Region

Read more https://www.mountainproject.com/v/pulpit-rock/111972906

Flat and crimpy boulder with an arete
Pretty sure its granite but might want to double check
Submitted By: Edmund
Location: NH : WM: Franconia Notch : Franconia Notch Bouldering

Read more https://www.mountainproject.com/v/half-brussel-boulder/111972826

From this parking lot you can reach a bunch of crags. The walk is pleasant through the valley, but turns into an actual hike for the short distance to your crag of choice.
This parking area isn't referenced in any of the guidebooks or online information, but I don't see any reason why you shouldn't park here. If you don't feel at ease with this parking lot or it's full, don't park at Norma (unless it's Sunday), but a little past Norma towards the center of Pottenstein in another small, gravel parking lot and walk back to Pttlachtal.
This area contains the Brotzeitwand, Trautner Ged.-Wand, Waldcafe, Riedl Ged.-Wand, Trierer Wand, Pttlachturm, Adamsfels, Predigtstuhl, Glawewand, Bleisteinwand, and Hohe Nase.
Submitted By: Shawn Heath
Location: International : Europe : Germany : Frankenjura

Read more https://www.mountainproject.com/v/pttlachtal-east-of-pottenstein/111971419

Good climbs in the overhang and left arte
Submitted By: TrevorthePirate
Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Rock Creek Bouldering

Read more https://www.mountainproject.com/v/wave-of-babies-boulder-/111977227

Grasshopper Rocks is mostly comprised of granite spires on the western portion of the Castle Mountains. There are small pockets of bolted limestone and bolted granite sport lines but expect most routes to be trad or mixed protection. Expect a bit of a hike and maybe some trail blazing as much of the climbs are remote and not located on any established trail.

A fantastic guide book for the area exists:

"The Big Empty" by Ron Brunckhorst. The guide book has great hand drawn maps, GPS coordinates for many of the formations and notes about the areas rich climbing history that goes back to early exploration in the 1970's by Alex Lowe and company.

Grasshopper Campground is a great place to set up camp for the weekend and is located close to the main access point.
Submitted By: A Pankratz
Location: MT : Castle Mountains

Read more https://www.mountainproject.com/v/grasshopper-rocks/111975963

Here is a list of crags which stay dry through even long periods of rain. They almost never get wet.
Submitted By: Shawn Heath
Location: International : Europe : Germany : Frankenjura : 1 - So much to do, where do...

Read more https://www.mountainproject.com/v/sheltered-and-also-fast-drying/111969104

In-Progress Crag - Updates to come
Submitted By: Elie Bou-Gharios
Location: International : Asia : Lebanon

Read more https://www.mountainproject.com/v/koubba/111978585

Just East of Lost Arrow Spire with some good length single pitch lines that are bolted, mixed, and traditional.
Submitted By: SThal
Location: ID : City of Rocks

Read more https://www.mountainproject.com/v/no-start-wall/111966319

Medium block with a large concave dimple on one face. The main face has an angled finger/tips crack/seam. Landings are generally flat and open.
Submitted By: Tim McGivern
Location: MA : Spring Pond Woods

Read more https://www.mountainproject.com/v/juicy-dimple-boulder/111967735

Most of the areas in Lebanon are not shown on this page, this page attempts to document new and developing crags. Please consult climbinglebanon.com for a much more accurate picture of climbing in the country.

The country is unique in the fact that you can be climbing on world-class problems in the mountains in the morning, then drive one hour and swim on the beach in the evening.
There are no words to describe the potential of climbing in Lebanon. There are rocks literally everywhere! The existing crags are enormous and contain world class routes and amazing rock quality, yet they don't even scratch the surface.

Safety-wise, the country is unpredictable and a little volatile but usually safe if you stay away from the borders.
Submitted By: Elie Bou-Gharios
Location: International : Asia

Read more https://www.mountainproject.com/v/lebanon/111978552

Open exposed summit on the peak of pine mountain, called buzzards roost. Gets very hot during mid-day, semi crumbly sandstone
Submitted By: Lukas Wiborg
Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Big Basin State Park

Read more https://www.mountainproject.com/v/buzzards-roost-summit/111976701

Rural France, a quiet valley with a bunch of limestone blocks. Some are short, overgrown boulder problems, some are up to 18m. Lots of bolts, old rusty ring bolts, and some newer replacements (ring bolts as well.)
Probably all sport routes, there may a place to plug some gear, but pretty unlikely. Nice range of difficulty, from really easy to really hard.
Best thing, quiet, no crowds, shade available when needed, sun available when needed.
Worst thing, no star ratings, sometimes the route that looks amazing in the guide, is barely worth roping up for.
Submitted By: JimL
Location: International : Europe : France

Read more https://www.mountainproject.com/v/valle-eaux-claires/111969650

Shaded by trees this short lowball boulder has a few very hard problems, some moderates and a couple easy slabs.
Submitted By: Laeserguns
Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Rock Creek Bouldering

Read more https://www.mountainproject.com/v/sloper-boulder/111978103

Shady in the morning until about 12:00 for the belayer. It is right off the road.
Rock is fantastic, will become better with traffic but solid.
Submitted By: Randall Judycki
Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area

Read more https://www.mountainproject.com/v/crag-121-/111979857

Sit start and work your way up the overhang on jugs that are layered in rails. Heel hook and mantel to finish. Easy down climb is to the rear by the trees.
Submitted By: Joey Nguyen
Location: CA : San Jacinto Mountains : The Tramway : Shangri-La Valley : The Beach

Read more https://www.mountainproject.com/v/rotten-roof-boulder/111978983

South facing crags in a very tight, secluded valley. The rock quality is suspect, and helmets are highly recommended. Bolted sport routes up to 4 pitches in length. Only 2 established lines as of yet, with more coming.
Submitted By: Ken Miller
Location: MT

Read more https://www.mountainproject.com/v/testament-slabs/111971383

The first group or set of blocks at the Promised Land.
Submitted By: Old Timer
Location: MA : Lynn Woods : The Promised Land

Read more https://www.mountainproject.com/v/sector-one/111967605

The Frankenjura is broken naturally into two distinct areas, the northern Frankenjura and the southern Frankenjura. Most of the most famous routes in Germany are within the northern Frankenjura, and when some one speaks about the Frankenjura, it's typically about the northern part. Nevertheless, there have been significant ascents done here (see the video below) and there are lots of quality crags. And something more that the southern Frankenjura offers which the northern Frankenjura doesn't hardly is multipitch.

 


The hiking through the Altmhltal is also really pleasant and highly recommended.
Submitted By: Shawn Heath
Location: International : Europe : Germany

Read more https://www.mountainproject.com/v/frankenjura-south/111974922

The Heldwand is a very popular crag for 5.12 climbers. The routes are juggy and slightly overhanging. These two factors may be the justification for the name, "Hero's Wall".

This crag is one of the few which is almost perpetually dry. Furthermore, it's extremely short and easy approach and large, flat surrounding area make it attractive for families with kids. If it gets too crowded for your taste, go to one of the neighboring crags (Zauppenberger Wand or Schweinsmhler Wnde).
Submitted By: Shawn Heath
Location: International : Europe : Germany : Frankenjura : Heldwand

Read more https://www.mountainproject.com/v/heldwand/111971403

The Jug Haul Wall is a secluded, dog-friendly sport climbing area with nice views of lower Millcreek Canyon. The routes are all jug hauls on skin friendly rock.

The rock type is Coliche. It is like a sedimentary soup of different chosses cemented together by some kind of carbonate. Wicked hard in places and not so much in others. Bolts are long fat and plentiful for your pleasure.

There is a community brush at the crag to help keep the jugs clean.
Submitted By: bus driver
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Millcreek Canyon

Read more https://www.mountainproject.com/v/jug-haul-wall/111966520

The little boulder between Illigitimus Rotundus and the Cobra. It has two short climbs.
Submitted By: Mike Snyder
Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Lake Point

Read more https://www.mountainproject.com/v/first-blood-boulder/111980183

The Southwestern formation at Cow Patty. (4) established routes ranging from 5.4 to 5.9
Submitted By: A Pankratz
Location: MT : Castle Mountains : Grasshopper Rocks : Cow Patty

Read more https://www.mountainproject.com/v/lower-rock/111975999

This 100 meter high mass of rock towers above the village of Hausen im Tal and Danube river. While nearby Stuhlfels sports a summit cross, Dachstein is topped with castle ruins, and come on...who doesn't want to scale a cliff face right up to the base of an ancient castle!

Dachstein is not for beginners. There are about four easy routes (UIAA 5+ and below) but all single pitch. The better routes, and all the multipitch routes are YDS 5.10 and up (UIAA 6+ to 7).

Also, a large number of routes are currently closed, though allegedly will be reopened this year sometime (2016). Check with the local DAV for the current status. Everything after the "Direkte Dachsteinkante" is closed for climbing right now which numbers around 30 routes.

The main feature of Dachstein is, as the name suggests, the "Dach" or huge roof. The most popular way up is the "Direkte Dachsteinkante" which is 4 pitches (UIAA, 4+, 7-, 7, 4) making it easy to start and finish, but rather challenging in the middle!
Submitted By: SwabianAmi
Location: International : Europe : Germany : Baden-Wrttemberg : Schwbische Alb/Jura (Ulm ... : Donautal

Read more https://www.mountainproject.com/v/dachstein/111972323

This boulder is located near Creekside shaded by trees. The west face holds a handful of warmups. The south face is choss city. The east face holds the lines.
Submitted By: MonteGraham
Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Bouldering problems

Read more https://www.mountainproject.com/v/mama-jama-boulder/111973652

This is a crag that you get to if you hike up past the cave. It has spectacular views and mostly easy climbs. There are few friction climbs and the rest are near vert on perfect granite.
Submitted By: Merrick Schaefer
Location: International : Europe : Norway : Trndelag : Flatanger : Hanshelleren

Read more https://www.mountainproject.com/v/footwork-sector/111972976

This is an area with 2 Ger camps a couple hours northwest of Ulaanbaatar. The centerpiece of this area is a large monolith in between two ger camps. There also appears to be a great wall to the south of the camps, but I haven't been down there to verify routes.

The rock is better here than in Terlej. Some parts can be a bit flakey, but overall I felt much more secure placing pro here, than in Terlej. There are a ton of potential routes on the monolith, I have a few that I will post, but there is room for development here.
Submitted By: Nat D
Location: International : Asia : Mongolia : Terelj

Read more https://www.mountainproject.com/v/dughana-khad/111971256

This is an easy to reach crag right off the side of the road before you get to the farm. It has over 70 bolted climbs, including a few multi-pitch. It has a wide range of climbs, with plenty on the easy side, including an area for beginners/little kids. It gets sun for most of the day and will be dry after a day of sun even after numerous days of rain.
Submitted By: Merrick Schaefer
Location: International : Europe : Norway : Trndelag : Flatanger

Read more https://www.mountainproject.com/v/sandmaelen-/111973150

This is the larger, steeper section of cliff left of center. It is about 220' tall, and has potential for some very fine harder lines on the lower 180'.
Submitted By: applewood
Location: WA : Okanogan : Burge North - Hidden Canyon

Read more https://www.mountainproject.com/v/wu-wei-wall/111968603

This is the second group or set of boulders in the Promised Land. They start roughly half-way down the power lines and continue all the way to the end at Fairview Avenue.
Submitted By: Old Timer
Location: MA : Lynn Woods : The Promised Land

Read more https://www.mountainproject.com/v/sector-two/111967609

This wall is a huge traverse. The send takes approximately 40 minutes in its entirety and I bet the wall is around 500 FT. When I sent it I sent climber's right to left. I'm not sure how the left to right send would be. I have been here numerous times and never had any problems (at all times of the day). This wall is EXCELLENT for training as the PUMP is no JOKE. You balance on 5.11 crimps all day, with some 12 moves. The foot work can get a bit meticulously and if you're not careful you will get spit out because of the pump fest.
Submitted By: Roberto de la Riva
Location: MN

Read more https://www.mountainproject.com/v/plymouth-endless-wall-traverse-/111967828

Though the Teutoburger Forest, with its max elevation of 450m, doesn't rank among the tallest mountains in Germany, there are a few small sandstone crags situated upon the ridge between Rheine and Detmold which attract many climbers.

Some particularly interesting crags are:
Drenther Klippen (near Bocketal) - at nearly 4km long with many small sectors, you're sure to find something for you. The sector Knigsstein offers harder routes in a nice roof. The sector Dreikaiserstuhl offers 50 routes with a wide range of difficulty.
Halleluja Steinbruch (near Bielefeld) - more interesting for boulderers.

Note: Chalk is forbidden nearly everywhere in the Teutoburger Wald. Please leave your chalk at home if you come here.
Submitted By: Shawn Heath
Location: International : Europe : Germany

Read more https://www.mountainproject.com/v/teutoburger-wald/111980391

Tomorrowland is large boulder, the area it covers is large anyway. The boulder is short, and has featured north face overhang. The rock quality is shotty in spots, but is overall solid, and the landings are perfect.
Submitted By: Nick Reecy
Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Blue Moon Boulder Area : Fertile Crescent Area

Read more https://www.mountainproject.com/v/tomorrowland-boulder/111969879