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Burr Breath

www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news definedbypassion: “Budda Hole” - 5.11d, Solar Collector, RRG,...
“Budda Hole” - 5.11d, Solar Collector, RRG, KY
Canon 7DmkII, 1/60s, f/4
www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news expressions-of-nature: sunflowers rain, Grand Teton : Pat...
sunflowers & rain, Grand Teton : Pat Gaines
This climb shares the first two bolts with Kleines Frchterli before following the overhang to the right. The anchor is around the corner of the overhang, not far from the Neue Heimat anchor.
Submitted By: Shawn Heath
Location: International : Europe : Germany : Frankenjura : Neue Heimat
This is probably one of the best 5.12s in Tuolumne. The crux 12c third pitch is CLASSIC sporty sport climbing with a very exciting and powerful crux on immaculate golden overhanging knobs. The position is exhilarating. There is potential for big but clean air potential at the crux! With no topo or route description for this climb, I pieced together some beta from Katie Lambert, but I'm not sure if I climbed the first and final pitch correctly. Really though, the middle two pitches are what you come for. Be prepared for some serious runouts on easier sections, especially on pitch one and four. Go for the victory whip from the top of the last pitch and break both your legs.

Pitch One: 5.10, Look for the obvious bolted arete, and start to the left of this. I think you can do some runout 5.10 at the start but I just headed up the obvious ramp to the right eventually reaching a single bolt and then a committing/dangerous but surprising secure 5.10 knob crux. Wander up knobs heading towards a ledge at the base of the obvious gold arete, and a 2 bolt anchor. It would be possible to start on Sunshine which might offer a more classic first pitch, or for hard-person points Anatolio.

Pitch Two: 5.11d, Place one cam in the corner, then head out to arete, and a uncharacteristically well protected 11d arete pitch on golden knobs, with the crux at the end getting to the ledge with 2 bolts. Excellent climbing. Lament the fact that the crux pitch is not bolted this way.

Pitch Three: The Money Pitch! Head out left off the anchor and clip two bolts and then get ready to boulder. There is no clipping up this one. This is really one of the best pitches I've done in Tuolumne. I couldn't figure out the sustained boulder problem on lead and figured out a way to toprope it before I red-pointed it... still quite thrilling as a head point. Straight up off the anchor is the crux pitch of Sunshine 5.10d R. From the anchor of this amazing pitch you can pendulum over to the Acapulco anchor to work the crux. Did I mention this pitch is AMAZING!

Pitch Four: and maybe Five. Choose your own adventure! Head up slightly left off the anchor to a single bolt. Look up into a sea of knobs with absolutely no idea where the first ascent went. No matter where you go, it's going to be a run out affair. When Sean Leary was still alive Katie asked him where he went on this pitch, but he couldn't remember. My solution was to climb straight up off the bolt and then eventually trend up and right onto Sunshine. I belayed at a two bolt anchor on sunshine about 60 feet below the top and then finished on the unprotected 5.7+ pitch.
Submitted By: Cedar Wright
Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Mariuolumne Area : Drug Dome
Climb a nice hand crack to a ledge. Layback a finger size crack to another ledge. Two moves up the next finger crack will get you to the anchors. This route shares anchors with Jumping On The Bed.
Submitted By: Mike Carrington
Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Unicorn Valley
Sit start on left arete, on blocky hold. Head straight up the face then out and right. Make your way around the right arete and up to finish it off.
www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news "Big
Submitted By: Chris Gamenthaler
Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Carver : Carver Bouldering : Bonzi Boulders
On Cracked Boulder's vertical face, directly above Cross Stitch. Start standing with left hand in a big undercling and right on a slopey sidepull. Up to the big rail and commit to an interesting topout.
www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news "Brake
Submitted By: Brian Hennebry
Location: NJ : Allamuchy Mountain SP Bould...
Follow long prow over multiple bulges via jugs. Cool position and formations on route.
French flag hangers.
www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news "Sam
Submitted By: bus driver
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Millcreek Canyon : Jug Haul Wall
Start up an obvious ~20 ft. dihedral, at the top of which is a cruxy bulge. Continue up a short right-slanting crack to a small roof. The bottom of a long water runnel is on the right side of the roof. Climb a tricky move past the left side of the roof to a stance just right of a thick flake. One reachy move up and left gains the top of the flake (#4 Camalot protects this nicely). From there, yet another cruxy move from a right hand pocket leads up a right-slanting crack and to the water runnel. Easier climbing heads up to the top. Double-rope rappel from chain anchor.
Submitted By: Brandt Allen
Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Shuteye Ridge : Voodoo Dome
Climbs some easier 5.10 rock up to a crux reaching the 4th bolt.
Submitted By: Shawn Heath
Location: International : Europe : Germany : Frankenjura : Pttlachtal (East of Potte... : Brotzeitwand
1. Start as for Joe's Route, then climb the rib between the two left-leaning corners, heading for a V-groove just below the anchor. 5.7, 90'

2. Up and a bit left through the quartz band (easy, but not much gear for a while), then straight up to either of the Continental Cracks finishes. 5.6, 90'
Submitted By: Ben Townsend
Location: ME : Camden Hills : Barretts Cove Cliff
Directly from guidebook: "Crack then up steep bulge. Very Wild Iris-ish."
Submitted By: Michael Hauss
Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Lake Point : Fat Bastard
Directly form guidebook: "Thin moves up a surprisingly steep little wall...You can stem the boulder over your right shoulder to avoid the crux if you're tall."
Submitted By: Michael Hauss
Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Lake Point : Fat Bastard
Pitch One: Start at a steep roof, pulling hard moves to get past it. Fun and balancy 5.11 climbing leads to the next roof. Easier climbing to the anchor. 13 bolts runnout at the end can be protected with small/medium gear. 12a/b
Pitch Two: Fun mostly easy climbing for another 100'. 6 bolts with longish runnouts over very easy terrain, optional small/medium cams. 5.10a

Originally Done as one 60m pitch.
www.boulderingonline.pl Rock climbing and bouldering pictures and news "Here's
Submitted By: Waveclimb
Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Shuteye Ridge : High Eagle : Dark Side
From the belay bolts, traverse out left and clip the first bolt. Then climb up and past the big horn at the lip of the roof above. Continue to wind your way upward through an interesting series of moves, and then finish upward and slightly to the left through some very fun and exposed jug-hauling to anchors.
Submitted By: Chuck Parks
Location: AL : Yellow Bluff : A0 Ledge